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Everything posted by renob123
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I'm curious if you're adding this for kicks, or if you've actually had situations where you needed a surge tank. I haven't needed one yet, but I race with a full tank, and the only time it's less than 1/2 full (or 1/2 empty, depending on what type of person you are:lol:) is when I'm doing mostly highway driving. Jacob
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I know, I know:lol: Jacob
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Hmm, why hasn't anyone questioned the throttle cable adjustment? Jacob
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I haven't either, but I've been meaning to. Detailers say it does wonders on glass. It sounds like the same basic thing you're doing, though. AFAIK, there's only one product out there that will get a full-on scratch out of glass. It's designed to be used with an angle grinder, and it can heat up your glass and shatter it, if you're not careful. Jacob
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Have you used a clay bar on your windshield before? If so, how does your process compare to that? Jacob
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From what I've seen, people who are doing that involved of a build will usually start with a more advantageous platform than the EJ18 heads. Why do all of that work just to get the same flow as some EJ25 SOHC heads that you might find in the junkyard (assuming proper fitment, of course)? I also hear that while visually almost identical, the EJ22 heads will flow better. You may want to ask Ken at Delta cams what he thinks. I'm pretty sure he has torn into a majority of the options, while I basically regurgitate stuff from NABISCO and post up dancing bananas about Frankenmotors. Jacob P.S. Frankenmotor FTW:banana::banana:
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I'm trying not to be discouraging. When people ask about what HP a motor will make they're referring to peak HP. I doubt your peak HP has changed much. Take a look at this dyno plot on Cobb's website: http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/?id=3256 They're claiming somewhat modest peak HP gains from their "Stage 1" Accessport, but if you look at the dyno plot, you see that there are broad gains all across the graph. The peak HP increase (which is the number you were asking for) doesn't include all of the streetable power that you may have obtained. Here is a good post addressing torque for NA Subarus. I don't know much about that guy, but I think it's a good read, even though it's not perfectly relevant to this thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=28778099&postcount=11 I think r_kirky was trying to point out that gains claimed by a manufacturer of a thing that they're trying to sell aren't the best guide, and that you can't add the claimed gains (or multiply the percentage gains) to get a realistic number. 10hp+10hp doesn't always equal 20hp, and 140hp*1.1*1.1 won't always equal ~170hp. Again, I'm just relaying my basic understanding of things, and I'm not trying to be discouraging. Jacob
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I think I can fund an EJ swap, what can I look for?
renob123 replied to Cup O Noodles's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
You can piece your stuff together after time. Make sure you have another car you can use while the swap is taking place. Jacob -
Are you keeping the stock redline? I'd guess stock or stock+10hp assuming the headwork was done well. With those mods (especially the torque cams), I bet your area under the curve is substantially increased, but I doubt your peak has increased much if at all. With a higher redline, the HP cams instead of the torque cams, and your headwork, you'd probably get more HP, but the area under the curve might be smaller. Jacob P.S. Standard renob123 disclaimer applies here: I'm not an expert, but I read a lot and have done some stuff. Don't replace actual thinking with anything I say, and be sure to check with experts on stuff you aren't sure about.
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I think I can fund an EJ swap, what can I look for?
renob123 replied to Cup O Noodles's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
Yes, read the Numbchux writeup. However, some of your questions aren't answered in there. The closest thing to the EJ equivalent of an EA82T from a reliability standpoint (as perceived by many...I will defer to the experts on how close that perception is to the truth) would probably be the phase I EJ25. They came with wimpy head gaskets, and a bearing in the block is apparently a pretty weak link. However, you can replace the bearing if you want, and the new head gaskets from Subaru are much stronger than the ones that came with it. That's the block I used for the Frankenmotor Brat with an original bearing and the upgraded head gaskets. I don't remember if it's in the writeup, but DOHC motors will be much harder to fit in an EA81 frame, hence the popularity of the EJ22 for this swap. Also, make sure you can afford the brakes/suspension/drivetrain that you'll need in order to drive that thing. Jacob -
Oh shoot, did GD tell you to get seals? You'll need them. Jacob
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Bringing home a new one...
renob123 replied to 92_rugby_subie's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It's sitting there right now. I may be down tomorrow. It depends on whether we figure out the Brat's next secret weapon:cool: Jacob -
Bringing home a new one...
renob123 replied to 92_rugby_subie's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My old alt is probably at GD's. I'll check and make sure, though. Jacob -
Bringing home a new one...
renob123 replied to 92_rugby_subie's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I've got it. I dug it up last night. Jacob -
Bringing home a new one...
renob123 replied to 92_rugby_subie's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
^^^I'm pretty sure it's that, but it's hard to tell just by feel. If you want to pull the assembly at the junkyard, make sure you have some extenders for your sockets. Jacob -
Lolz. Nice one Rob #12. Just remember: Beer before liquor, never been sicker. ^^^Fixed it for you. Jacob
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That's great news! The Legacy just begs to be called "Mr. Roo Two". Jacob
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I don't know of any NA Impreza that needs premium fuel, so I'd venture to say that none of them are really that high of compression. Jacob
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I haven't run mine that much, but fuel economy doesn't seem to have changed. The gains aren't just "more modest" when you already have an EJ25. They're questionable or even pointless, from what I understand. The 180hp number is an estimate, and if my Frankenmotor is anywhere near that, then it's being helped out by the cams. If you started with an EJ25 vehicle, you'd probably be better off just going with cams than sourcing EJ22 manifold/wiring/heads and dealing with the worse flow of that setup. If you'll die without the increased compression, there are other ways of doing that without downgrading the heads. If one can only afford 2 cams and not 4, then maybe one shouldn't be doing any kind of build. This isn't directed totally at you, Gary. I just want to share some of what I understand, and I'd advise everyone to do their own research because I'm not an engine builder by a long shot. I just wasn't impressed with just the EJ22, and I found an EJ25 shortblock on NABISCO, so that's why I did it. Jacob
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Thank you for the compliment and thank you for ending your hijack. The OP and I (I think. I don't want to put words in his mouth) would vastly prefer that this thread be kept on the topic of retrofitting Subarus. Jacob
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:lol: Jacob
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Darn. You beat me to it. Although I thought the stock JDM STI went to at least 8k. Maybe not reliably, but that's where the tach's redline was. Jacob
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I certainly took it as you being an rump roast to me when I was just trying to be friendly. If that's not the case, then we can proceed amicably. I believe one of the main benefits of the Japanese 2.0 is that it can rev higher. Of course, you can build a 2.5 to rev higher as well, but I don't see too many people going that route. I seem to see a lot of EJ257s spinning bearings, but I'm not sure if it's because nobody checks their oil or if that motor is not as great as I always thought it was. Most of my research is in the turbo world, so I may be off-base here. Jacob