renob123

I don't disagree. I put in a lower temp t-stat because my car is for rallyx only, and it was overheating halfway through runs. It seemed like it wasn't opening early enough. It works for me, and that's what I said earlier. If the same thing applies to quick hill crawling in the wheeling world, then I think it's a fine solution. I'll still take the Moose Drool, though:) Jacob

In Portland, yes. In Bozeman, I recommend you do a search here for "56mm thermostat" or "low temp" or something. Any car part shop will have them. 170 degrees was the sweet spot for me. If you can't find one, send me some Moose Drool, and I'll get you one:) Jacob

I didn't use that vendor, but I did get an eBay kit like that, and everything's been fine. I have an EA81 radiator and a low-temp thermostat, and I haven't had any problems with heat with that combo. Before going nuts on fitting a different radiator, make sure everything else is working right. Jacob

I'd caution against using it for what you have in mind. The coilpack may be fine underwater, but the ignitor that hooks to it can fail if it gets wet. Mine did on my EJ-swapped Brat, so I put it inside by the ECU. I'm not trying to discourage you, but from what I saw, EJ stuff is not totally waterproof. It could have been a fluke, though. Jacob

I can't seem to slow my EJ-powered Brat as much as I'd like. I've asked around, and the consensus is that I should do the 5-lug swap, which I know I should do, but I can't finish it before the next rallyx. I've ordered the most aggressive pads I can find, and I'm looking into SS braided lines. The rotors are good, and the system has been recently bled. I've searched pretty extensively, and I can't find anything about master cylinder/booster upgrades for EA81s. It looks like Legacy (and even WRX) parts will fit EA82s, but there's no indication of whether these will fit my Brat. Has anyone had any luck with upgrading this part of the system? Thanks. Jacob

Oh' date=' head [b']gaskets[/b]. I thought you had something wrong with the actual heads. From looking at your price list, I guess you didn't bother trying to cool the engine:) Also, you don't have any apparatus to affix the engine to the crossmember. I'd add a used Protege fan and STI motor mounts to your list. I could also waste another hour of time at work coming up with more things that nobody thinks of. Jacob

Well, like I said, you can substitute time for money, and I wanted it done for the first rallyx of the season, which didn't give me a lot of time. $3,000 is more than necessary. I spent less than that to get it running, but it only lasted 12 hours, threw codes like crazy, and had no exhaust. I could have gone without the 5-speed upgrade too, but I don't know where I would have been stuck when it failed. I could have cut corners all over the place, but I wasn't ok with the alternatives. It also depends on what car you're putting it in. An EA82 with SPFI would cost way less. On my way to work today, I saw a couple Legacies. I didn't see a single Brat. That's why. Jacob

No hard feelings:) This is kind of a loaded question, since you can substitute time for money and vice versa in most cases. If you're willing to wait a year or two to acquire the parts and put them together, you can do it for cheap. I was not. Also, I find that when a lot of people here estimate a price of something like this, they leave out the cost of the parts they have in their Subaru piles that they used. GD or Qman, for example, could probably do a swap for close to free in that regard. I'm in over $3,000 easily by now, and the total keeps growing. However, I think I spent incredibly little time on it, considering how amateur of a mechanic I am. Jacob

When I was picking the course up, I found an oil filler cap that looked oddly familiar. I stopped that guy, and sure enough, it was his. He must have been hauling rump roast to make that thing fall off:grin: Jacob

Nevermind. When I saw "Loyale", I instantly thought "Brat". Sorry. Jacob

Almost everything you do to the car will be useless if you can't use it. Plus this is much cheaper than an EJ22 swap: http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/nwrallyschool.htm Jacob

Yeah, I had the same problem. You can't trust the light on the dash that says you're in 4-hi, and it always seemed like there were two "grooves" where the lever could sit. One would make the light come on, and the other would actually engage 4-hi. OP: You've picked the groove that makes the light come on. Try moving the lever up or down a little into a smaller groove. You can barely feel it, but it's there. Jacob

Yeah, who would have thought that moving that wire would cause it to die, but you and Andy can throw dirt clods at it and it actually improves the paint? It is a monster, and I think part of the reason it feels like that is because the suspension and brakes aren't nearly where they should be. With some fine tuning, I bet I can make the exhaust hit the brown note at idle. That'll be fun. And to the OP: Yes, I'll be there. Jacob

I wouldn't buy them because I see the NASCAR logo in the reflection on one of the spokes. Jacob

Did you figure this out yet? With the new exhaust on my Brat, I saw that a big cloud of exhaust gas puffs out when it's doing the bobble thing. I noticed it for the first time on my way to work today. It did the bobble. I stopped at a light. Taking off from the light, there was a big cloud of smoke. I assume the ECU is dumping fuel/pulling timing because it thinks something's wrong. The CEL cleared itself, of course. Jacob

Perhaps, but you usually do it with a bitter dose of reality:) 2manetoys: I was in a similar situation for a while. One of the upgrades I was most satisfied with was replacing the engine and transmission mounts. Hold off on the transmission mounts in case you do the 5-speed swap, but both pairs can be replaced in less than a day, and they greatly improved my driving experience. At 182k, I'm betting you'll have a similar experience. Jacob

Why is that? Does it pinch or get dry or something? Jacob

Right. I assumed it was a normal EA82 flywheel, but it can still be ground to XT6 specs. I'd try to get a better idea of what he ground the step to. Jacob

Did you have the flywheel turned to XT6 specs or "normal" EA82 specs? Also, did you use an XT6 pressure plate or normal EA82 pressure plate? I had an XT6-spec flywheel and a normal EA82 pressure plate, and I had similar symptoms. It's drivable, but they really should match. Try to find out what step the flywheel was ground to by the "guy". Jacob

My '85 Brat has threaded holes in the middle of those raised squares. I always assumed that's where the belts bolted. You should make sure there's enough metal behind those squares, though. I'd imagine they're reinforced on mine, but they may not be on yours. Jacob

The newest iteration of NA 2.5L engines has an equal-length header. That doesn't look like it, though. If it is equal length, then people at NASIOC say you can put in a resonator to get back the boxer rumble, but they also say there may be fitment issues around the oil pan. You'll have to read up on it. Jacob

You're lucky he didn't get you for your badass exhaust too:) Jacob P.S. I'm coming through your area again in about an hour. I'll be in a black '06 STI this time, though, in case you get a wave. No Brat:(

I don't remember pulling out the spring-tensioned ball thingies when I did mine. To get the actual lock cylinder out, you need to drill out some pot metal. Search under threads started by me. GD gives a decent explanation of it. Jacob

Yeah, I read a bunch of stuff in the New Gen forum here about it, and since it's the cheapest fix, I'll take a shot at it. I try to search legacycentral sometimes, but its search system and I don't get along. I'm pretty good at searching for stuff, but that thing seems to return threads that don't have my keywords in it:confused: Jacob