renob123

I had to replace the throw out bearing, so the Brat's been on jackstands for a week. I'll be driving it at least 600 miles this weekend, so I'll have a better idea then. Maybe I can actually get out the voltmeter when it's not starting and see what the CTS is doing. Jacob

I didn't say it happened every time when coasting to a stop. All it takes is to do some engine braking at all to trip the CEL. About 1 to 30 minutes later, if I floor it, it bobbles. If the CEL goes away, I can floor it and everything's great. I'm not arguing, I'm just being clear so that knowledge and information is shared. Jacob

Yes, it would DEFINITELY be a weird angle, and if you have big hands, you may need to get some child labor/girlfriend involved. I'm not even sure if it's possible, though. Good luck. I pulled the transmission this week and found that one of the clips had broken. Jacob

Yeah, mine is hooked up. Those aren't quite the symptoms I'm having. I can't stab the gas and make it go away (but I wish that could be the solution to every problem:)). I need to hook up the VSS and neutral switch before exploring any other options. Jacob

Is this something you could do through the starter hole? Make sure you have a magnet on a stick in case you drop the clip, though. Jacob

Do you have your CEL hooked up? Mine does the full throttle bobble too, but only when the CEL is on. When it's off, I can floor it and smile:) As far as I can tell, the CEL gets tripped when I'm coasting. I'm assuming it's either the VSS or neutral switch not being hooked up that causes this. What else would the computer care about when coasting? I haven't gotten around to diagnosing what code is doing it, though. The light seems to turn off by itself after a few minutes anyway. Jacob

Hillsburrito, OR, at least until I find a house. Jacob

I'm thinking of buying the dash carpet shown in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110686&highlight=dash+carpet Has anyone taken the plunge? I just want to know if it actually fit. I'm finding that at least half of the stuff I buy for the Brat is advertised as the right thing but ends up being not even close. Thanks. Jacob

How are your starts after stopping for just a few minutes? Mine starts fine every morning, but when I go to the gas station or get coffee or something, it takes a long time to start up when I get back. Jacob

Just so the OP doesn't think he's crazy, my Brat has been doing something similar. It starts fine in the morning, but for example, when I try to start it after filling up at the gas station, it doesn't start easily. My ignition/ecu wire is hooked up, btw. You can really tell when you try to start it without. Mr. Brat, if you find what it is, be sure to post. I'll do the same:-) Jacob

I have a different take on this. I bought some General Altimax Arctics from tirerack.com for cheap. They're snow tires that I use year-round on the Brat. With the width I'm running, they do a good job in the dry, rain, snow, and dirt, even with the EJ22 swap. If you're running that many freeway miles with occasional limited-traction use, you should look into them. I'm happy with the treadwear, but if they wear out too fast for you, at least they're cheap. If you're more serious than that about offroading, then listen to everyone else here:) Jacob

I never drove one when it was new, but I drove mine before and after the 20-year-old suspension was replaced with KYB struts/shocks. I feel mine does a good job of being very stable at 70mph on the freeway and pretty capable at 20mph in the dirt. Your suspension is height-adjustable, which affects how it handles bumps and rocks and stuff, too. You can search on here for how to adjust it and what effect that may have on the ride harshness. My shocks were rusted solid when I got it, so adjusting probably wouldn't have helped, but I'd look into that first, then start replacing that old stuff. Jacob

Hmm, this is a good thread. I have the stock Legacy y-pipe going into the original Brat midpipe. The muffler fell off long ago. I'm sure there are gains to be had with something else, so I look forward to seeing what other people did, especially things that fit:) Jacob

Nice. I like what you (or your friend) did with the wiring through the fender and the transmission mount. Jacob

I suppose I should be on here too now: Engine: '91 EJ22 Chassis: '85 Brat Tranny: EA82 5-speed D/R Suspension: KYB struts/shocks, Whiteline rear swaybar Other: STI motor mounts, rear disc brakes, redrilled hubs, EA81 turbo engine crossmember (which means I should start trying to turbo it), K&N cone filter on a Vibrant MAF adapter, probably a lot more that I can't think of right now Jacob

If you're talking about emissions testing in Omak, then you've clearly never been there:) I'd post in the WTB section and see if someone has a y-pipe for sale. Maybe take a picture of the bottom of the engine to make sure the sellers know what kind you're looking for. They're not that rare. I had 2 at one point. Jacob

Mine never bounced by that much. It went up and down about 2-300 RPM, if that. I haven't noticed a big difference so far, but I only have about 30 minutes of driving time with the new alternator. Most of that time was spent looking at the voltmeter and checking the coolant temp. Jacob

I noticed a little bouncing with my tach, and it's hooked to the yellow wire in the engine bay next to where the ignition coil was. I think it's remarkable that it works at all, so I'm happy with it. Yes, you should hook up the CEL. I wired mine to a new light sorta down by the fuses. It's on quite a bit, so I didn't want it somewhere directly in my field of vision during normal driving. The wire from the ECU is the ground, so you need to get switched 12V from somewhere. I tapped into the power for my MP3 player. Jacob

Cool. What did you do for the radiator hoses? Sorry if the pic shows it...my work blocks photobucket. Jacob

That's $250 AUD. I don't know what that means now, but back then, it made a big difference. Jacob

I wouldn't bother with your friend. I called Whiteline USA, and all they did was give me that girl's e-mail address. Jacob

Here's the e-mail I got from them. I went for the rear one. It was nice being one of two people in the US known to have it (edrach beat me to it), and the exchange rate was pretty good when I bought it. Jacob Hi Jacob, The following Selbys Swaybars are available for: Subaru, JF2 series 10/79-84 AWD Wagon. I think this is what your "Brat" falls under in Australia. All prices are in AUS$ excluding delivery. Australian customers need to add 10% GST. Part Number: SSF41 Description: Front Swaybar-heavy duty Notes: 22mm Replacement bar Qty in Kit: 1 Price: $250.00+ ------------------------------------------------------------------ Part Number: SSR41 Description: Rear Swaybar-heavy duty Notes: 16mm Full Kit bar Qty in Kit: 1 Price: $250.00+ ------------------------------------------------------------------ Feel free to email me if you have any further questions. Regards Jackie Holmes Selbys Swaybars 4 Lincoln Street Minto NSW 2566 Australia Ph: +61 2 9603 0100 | Fax: +61 2 9820 2559 | Email: mail@selbys.com.au

As of less than a year ago, the Whiteline rear swaybar was still being made. If you don't believe me, look at my Brat. It's being made by Selby's Swaybars, an offshoot of Whiteline. I'd be up for a group shipping thing to get the front one from them. Jacob

That's odd. Maybe GeneralDisorder will have an idea of what it is. The only thing I can think of is maybe your engine runs at that speed, but the alternator is not. Are you sure there's no problem with the belt, or maybe the pulleys are slipping? Either that, or maybe Maximas have weaker alternators down there. I never asked as much as you do from your alt, but I know mine was a definite improvement. Jacob

At what RPM does your Brumby usually idle? Did your stock alternator handle all of that? The Maxima alternator should definitely handle more than your stock one. Jacob