renob123

I was thinking that same thing when I replaced all rotors and pads this weekend:-) Maybe I'll try to find someone willing to weld stuff for free out here. Jacob

You never answered my question on the Sparcos, so I wasn't sure what to ask. The mounts in question are sliders. Jacob

I sent Corbeau some dimensions from my Brat. Here's what I got back: "The D736T and D737T brackets match those dims. These brackets are special order which means once ordered and paid, it will take 4-6 weeks to ship. If you would like to order, give us a call at 801-255-3737 and ask for sales." In addition to these brackets taking 4-6 weeks to ship, they also retail for $95 each. I wish I could weld:-\ Jacob

Yes it does, except now I can ask them a slightly less-retarded question than I could yesterday:-) Jacob

Can anyone provide insight on this? My Brat is technically an '85 GL 2-door... Jacob

Does Sparco make a bracket that will work for Brats? Jacob

Well, the thing is, I know the quality of my work, and it's unacceptable for something as important as a seat bracket:-) Some of theirs are $30 each, which I think is more than fair. Jacob

I found this application guide on Corbeau's website. Will any of these Subaru models' brackets work on my '85 Brat? DL XT COUPE 86 FORESTER 97-01 GL SEDAN/WAGON 85+ GL 2 DOOR 85 IMPREZA 97-01 JUSTY 89-94 LEGACY/OUTBACK 88-97 LEGACY WAGON 03+ LEGACY SEDAN 05 OUTBACK 97-04 RS SEDAN/WAGON 97-00 WRX 01-07 XT 6 87 I asked a similar question in the NABISCO forum a while ago, and the answer was that I should modify my stock brackets. I don't have a welder, and I almost lit myself on fire with an angle grinder, so I'd prefer to just shell out the $30 for a bracket. Thanks. Jacob

I'm not opposed to bevelling, I just don't want to remove any more metal from a wheel than I have to. Your point about tech is a good one, however. I may end up ordering a countersink later today. Jacob

Bump for other opinions. Can I use washers and flat lugnuts instead of bevelling? Thanks. Jacob

Keep in mind that two of the holes are still original, and I can use regular tapered lug nuts for those two holes. Do you think that would be enough? These are for rallyx only, so I'll be driving about 3 minutes at a time, max. Jacob

I'm thinking I may just want to use some kind of washers and flat bolts, rather than 60 degree lug nuts. Has anyone tried that method? I guess drag racers do something like that. Jacob

After I decide on the seats to be used in my rallyx-only Brat, I'd like to figure out some kind of racing harness setup. I didn't find any threads or pics on the forums that would help. Has anyone else thought about this? What would you recommend? Thanks. Jacob

I'm thinking I want to use a big-rump roast drill bit to bevel the holes in some wheels I drilled. I used a 35/64 drill bit for the hole. Is there an optimal drill bit size to use to bevel the edges so the lug nuts seat properly? Thanks. Jacob

Thanks guys. The people at the local parts store have effed up my order every day for the last 3 days. All I want is a brake line by this weekend. Jacob

I did a rear disc swap on my '85 Brat. I blew a brake line, and I'm having trouble finding a car to tell the parts people that I have so they get me the right thing. I usually say that I have an '84 Brat for non-rear disc parts to avoid any confusion in the computer, but I have no idea what would make sense when I order the brake line. Thanks. Jacob

+1 Does the turbo come with a rear LSD? Also, are any of the headlight/dimmer switches the same as an '85 Brat? I'd be interested in both. I'm sure I'll have more requests as I break things. Jacob

Thanks for the diagram. I ended up swapping my turn signal lever, and the brights work. The only problem is that I've lost dash lights, tail lights and license plate lights. I'm thinking about starting a thread devoted to my electrical problems... Jacob

I just want them to break the cheapest thing first:-) That being said, I nailed a curb in my fast Subaru hard enough to bounce me back into the middle of the street. Nothing broke. Jacob

I've seen two steel wheels fly off a car at the same time. Upon closer inspection, all 5 lugnuts stayed on, but the wheel ripped right around them. I'm kinda worried about that happening more often with more holes in the wheel. I'm not sure if welding the old holes shut will actually help. I think Phizanza has a good reason on his site, but I forget what it is... Jacob

I've seen a few wheels break off during rallyx, so I'm not sure if I want to go this route quite yet. Heck, Brat wheels are practically free, so I could afford a few sets to hedge against the eventual wheel breakage. Jacob

I don't think there's a high beam relay. There's a left headlights relay, and a right headlights relay. That's why I decided this is a weird problem. Jacob

Yep, it has four. Is there a smart way of testing whether the high filaments on my low beam bulbs is burned out? They're pretty new... Jacob

Ooh, I like colors. Any parts of the FSM that would help would be appreciated. With the low beam lights, there are two filaments? So when I flip the brights on, the filament actually switches in the low beam, plus it turns on the high beams? Thanks for the help thus far. Jacob

I tried searching for this, but I couldn't find an answer. On my '85 Brat, the low beams work fine. However, when I flip the turn signal lever to activate the high beams, then the high beams don't come on, and my low beams turn off. This happens when I push or pull the turn signal lever. I checked the fuses, and they looked fine, so I'm not sure where to go from there. The weird thing is that the fuses are for the left and right sides of the car, so having the low beams working means that the fuses are fine, right? Thanks. Jacob