renob123

Yeah, I'd much rather give money to people who support terrorist groups than American farmers:rolleyes: OP: It's hard to give advice when you don't mention which car you have, but you should search for "CEL fix" here and on NASIOC. Also, a decent open source tuner in your area should be able to clear that code forever. Jacob

Almost all of your questions can be answered by searching, but I'll take a shot: This is the wrong section, first of all. I'd go to New Gen or maybe Retrofitting. A lot of your questions will be hard/impossible to answer without telling us your budget, your skills, and what you intend to do with your car. Rallitek used to be cool, but in a way they turned their back on the Subaru community. It's fine with me, though, because I can find better stuff for less money elsewhere. Turbo timers are a joke on modern turbo Subarus running modern oil. They do nothing useful. AVO turbos are fancy, but you can probably get something you'll be happier with by going with a different brand. Since your car is a turbo, and there's a lot of interchange with Legacies and STIs, you should search NASIOC for a lot of your questions on specific parts and speak with Cobb Tuning Surgeline in Portland when you have questions that can't be answered by searching. For engine management, you pretty much have standalones, Accessport, and open source. Surgeline does exclusively Accessport. Bobby at PRE does Accessport and open source. Surgeline has a tuner who is widely considered to be one of the best tuners out there. Jacob

They're kinda really small. That Brat looks pretty good. Has it lived in the area most of its life? I think you'll find that the rust is mostly cosmetic around here. Jacob

Heh nice. I'll make a note to revisit this thread tomorrow and see if it's still funny. Jacob

Sorry. I'm still on painkillers from back surgery. My memory is shot. You could probably get away with telling me the same joke every day:grin: Jacob

He's getting it from where I've told everyone to look if they have questions about this build: The High Compression Frankenstein thread on NABISCO. Here's one bit of info from it: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30122540&postcount=8 Jacob

I know I'm late, so you may have figured it out already, but no, I've never needed a hub puller for the fronts. There are instructions on here for how to do it, and if you search well, you can download How To Keep Your Subaru Alive (YTKYSA). It's a good manual for doing things like this your first time. Yes, the rubber with some studs/bolts and such. It makes a huge difference. It'll make the shifting more crisp, and the whole thing will handle better. When people have rear drums, the way they go to 6-lug is by drilling the drums, like you see on yours. sjrlifts.com makes some good stuff for EA81s, and that's the 6-lug conversion that he sells. Jacob

It depends on what kind of off-road abuse you're referring to. I'd say that having the adjustability of DCCD is overkill for wheeling. You just want locked and unlocked modes, I assume. And yes, it's not cheap. Jacob

GD and I can make axles that would work using EMPI parts. It's not cheap, but that's what I did. With the clicking/shaking issues people seem to get from almost any axle, I wasn't wild about the cutting and sleeving thing. Jacob

That's in the same pile of misconception. It's not an adjustable ratio. The hard, metal gears are in a 1:1 or 1.1:1 ratio, and they're stuck like that. You can't dial the wheel and add/remove metal teeth from those gears. The DCCD adjusts the slipping of the center differential. You can lock it or leave it to slip, or some amounts in between. I leave mine on Auto mode, because the computer is smarter/faster than I am. In product brochures and a ton of other Subaru materials, they said that the bias is adjustable. It's not the ratio, it's the center differential clutch bias. Make sense? Jacob

Yeah, see, it depends on when the spreadsheet was made and which information they chose to use. I read stuff a month ago or so that said a USDM '06 STI actually has a 1.1:1 as well. Jacob

I'm pretty sure you're correct. I thought for the longest time that the FWD SVXs had the 3.54 FD, so they wouldn't have a center ratio. I think a few years of STIs had the 1.1:1 ratio (including mine, maybe). There was a lot of misinformation out there during the first couple years they were released here, and that happens to be when I was doing the most research. However, as I've said before, FD is a moot point when you have the 6-speed gear ratios:slobber: Jacob

I didn't do that for a 5-lug conversion, but I did something similar for my STI 5-speed swap. There is a way to mix and match factory axles, but I used EMPI axles to get Impreza inners on a Brat axle. The same can be done in reverse. They happen to use the same diameter and spline count for Brats and Imprezas. Jacob

Ahh, right. I forgot that the speedo changed. Jacob

I'm glad it worked out for you. You only lost a whopping 100rpm at 70mph. Jacob

Rebecca had me under the impression that if both of the days in July were for points, then the June one is canceled. I'll keep my fingers crossed, but don't get your hopes up for a June event, at least not here. Jacob

You don't know how much money he has. He could always buy this: http://www.avoturboworld.com/avoshop/impreza-turbo-p-124.html Jacob

You'll want to search here to be totally sure, but here's what I found on Rockauto: BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1040894 BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1040937 You'll want two of each. DO NOT just get whatever's listed for a Brat. The transmission mounts listed are totally wrong. Fortunately, the right ones are listed for other EA81s. Jacob

With the car running, spray carb cleaner on all of the hoses or other possible vacuum leak areas in the engine bay. When you spray the vacuum leak, the engine's idle will change. That's how you know where your leak is. Then you just replace that. No need to guess. No need to buy arbitrary parts. The weird acceleration thing may be the carb or a vacuum leak. I don't know much about carbs, but everyone else here does. For just about any new Brat owner, I'd recommend bleeding the brakes and getting new engine/transmission mounts. Jacob

It's hard to answer without knowing your budget and what you want to do with the car. Knowing how mechanically inclined you are would help too. Jacob

No worries. I just never heard back from you. Jacob

So does this mean our deal fell through? Jacob

No, you're on the right track. I just wanted to caution you that FDs are not everything. When the gear ratios are the same, however, FDs are pretty much everything:grin: I guess now you're down to looking at the % differences and considering whether they're worth the work/downtime/money to swap 1 gear. Jacob

They're less than $200, and I think that if you're doing a build to increase power, then cams should be the first thing that you do. If you don't have $200, then you probably shouldn't be modifying a vehicle for more power. Have you asked Delta yet? Matt Monson on NABISCO would be a good source as well. Like I said before, they do what I want them to do, so I don't really care about the peak number on a dyno. Jacob

It's not the final drives by themselves, it's how the final drives and the gear ratios work together. For example, my 3.90 FD 6-speed hits way higher rpms at 70 than your cars do. My gear ratios are shorter than yours. I'd say that your 3.90 transmission switched to 4.11 final drive would be best for you and your tires, but that's a lot of work. Jacob