ryanw

I did the 2.5 to 2.2 swap a couple months ago and initially had some problems with it dying at cold startup or idling at 2 - 2.5 k and then starting to miss like crazy and throw CEL (which I guess if the computer detects high idle for a minute, it will shut down a cylinder). I used seafoam to clean the IAC, which appeared to resolve the problem. About a month after that, the CEL popped on again with the same codes (no problems idling or dying though). I cleared them and they have not returned over the past month. However, I have noticed once or twice that the IAC valve is humming or buzzing after the car is shut off. The first time I noticed, I just heard this buzzing after I got out of the car and looked around the engine for a bit... then when I disconnected the IAC electronic connector, the sound stopped. I had a spare IAC from the 2.5 Liter engine I had removed and I plugged it in, and it buzzed as well in my hand as I was holding it... looked like the valve was vibrating really quickly back and forth a very minute distance. I left it for awhile and came back and it stopped. I also havent noticed it again... I've only noticed it twice in 3 months and doesnt appear to be any issues with the engine running (although I get 23-24 mpg in city or on highway). Just figured I'ld post to see if anyone thought I should worry about it. Thanks!

Okay, I feel like this is a stupid question, but please humor me I bought a used 98 OBW a couple months ago the head gasket blew after 4 hours of driving it.... so I did the 2.5 to 2.2 swap. During this time, I noticed that the car alarm horn (I'm guessing) had the two wires going to it cut. I hooked them up and there was a low buzzing coming from the device which would not go off (which I guess is why the wires were clipped), so I left these disconnected. After getting the new engine in, I realized that the flashing red light on the dash (no audible alarm) meant the alarm was going off and I had to hit the lock/unlock button on the keyless entry remote to get the alarm to shut off. Well my keyless entry remote stopped working (just battery I'm hoping) about a week ago and I've been just using the key (along with procrastinating getting another battery).... I had some trouble opening the trunk with the key today, but finally got it open, then got in the car and it would not turn over. I noticed the flashing light on the dash which I assume means the car alarm has been triggered and therefore had shut off the starter. I had no remote entry device (left at home till I got batteries) and hitting the lock/unlock on the door did not shut off the alarm. I disconnected the battery lead for awhile, but I believe the alarm comes on after power loss and was in the same position. I had just moved my tools out of the car, but still had a pair of jumper cables, so I clipped on to the appropriate wire on the solenoid with the key on and jumped it to the positive on the battery which turned it over and started it up. So I drove home with the alarm light flashing on the dash the entire time. There has to be a way to shut off the alarm if you have the car key isnt there? Or do you HAVE to have the keyless entry remote to disable the alarm?

I just donated my '93 OBW with 287,000 miles on it. Engine still ran great, but lost 3rd gird on the AT and decided it was time to move on. The engine took some abuse maintenance-wise from the previous owner, but ran great when the AT went out. Unfortunately, I decided to buy a '98 with the 2.5 before I found this forum (found this forum because of the 2.5 actually). I was the proud owner and drove the '98 for about 3 hours before the HG went... I wasn't worried about it because previous owner said that it was done 30,000 miles ago... well guess what, now I have a 2.2 in there and am confident it will run for a very long time.

EVOthis, I think you were right about the IAC as well. When I started cold the next morning, it shot up to 2,200 RPM for a minute or so then died and threw the CEL again. Discouraged, I drove to work. It "kind of" did the same thing at lunch, except it didn't die after the high initial idle, it just went to normal idle and stayed there. Then the rest of the day, it was normal idle at startup. So now my problem had changed from occurring at every startup to just occurring at cold startup. I decided to clean the IAC.... I poured some seafoam down intake tube for the IAC. She ran real rough while doing this and died once... and they were right, it will smoke A LOT for 10-15 minutes... glad I read that part first, lol. Now the first couple cold starts after the cleaning, I have not had any more problems... Guess I'll see what happens over the next few days.

After triple checking the vacuum connections (still couldn't find a diagram)... I decided to troubleshoot other idling trouble causes. After searching on this forum, I found that the PCV valve, IAC, and T/B were the 3 things concerning idling. I decided to check the PCV valve first, as it seemed easiest. The inside plate was clear at the top and was heavily gunked up. I pushed it down with a small allen wrench. I cleared codes and started the car and it idled normally... no codes! I drove it a bit, starting is several times and each time it started normally. Previously, it would shoot up to 2,000+ RPM's on every start. So I went and got a new valve and swapped them out. It ran fine for the rest of the day, but when I started cold the next morning, it shot up to 2,200 RPM for a minute or so then died and threw the CEL again. Discouraged, I drove to work. It "kind of" did the same thing at lunch, except it didn't die after the high initial idle, it just went to normal idle and stayed there. Then the rest of the day, it was normal idle at startup. So I decided to clean the IAC.... I poured some seafoam down intake tube for the IAC. She ran real rough while doing this and died once... and they were right, it will smoke A LOT for 10-15 minutes... glad I read that part first, lol. Now the first couple days after the cleaning, I have not had any more problems.... So I think my swap is complete now. Thanks for everyone's help!

After triple checking the vacuum connections (still couldn't find a diagram)... I decided to troubleshoot other idling trouble causes. After searching on this forum, I found that the PCV valve, IAC, and T/B were the 3 things concerning idling. I decided to check the PCV valve first, as it seemed easiest. The inside plate was clear at the top and was heavily gunked up. I pushed it down with a small allen wrench. I cleared codes and started the car and it idled normally... no codes! I drove it a bit, starting is several times and each time it started normally. Previously, it would shoot up to 2,000+ RPM's on every start. So I went and got a new valve and swapped them out. Seems to be running fine now! I guess I'll just have to wait and see, but I think my swap is complete! Thanks for everyone's help!

I had thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=734010 for the 2.2 to 2.5 engine swap I did on my car. The engine was a '95 2.2 that had been used to replace a 2.5 in a '97 OBW. However, the owner got hit in the side and sold me the engine, which I put in my '98 OBW AT. The swap is done, and it runs great in gear, the symptom is: When I start the engine, its idle jumps to around 2,000 rpm and stays there. If I quickly put it in gear, then everything is fine and I can drive with no problems. If I let it set in park for a 10-30 seconds, then the engine will cut back from 2000 RPMS (sound like its going to die) and either: 1. Die 2. Run very rough, like its missing 3. Idle just fine at 600-800 OBD codes: P0507 - Idle control system RPM high P1507 - Manf. Cntrl. Veh.Spd Idle Speed Control Auxiliary Inputs No vacuum diagram on the hood, and none in the Haynes manual that I can find either. Can someone post one? How many vacuum lines are external to the intake? I didn't remove the intake manifold, so all those were never knowingly touched by me.

No vacuum diagram on the hood, and none in the Haynes manual that I can find either. Can someone post one? Do I need a 2.2 diag, or 2.5? This is '95 2.2 engine. How many vacuum lines are external to the intake? I didn't remove the intake, so all those were never changed. The symptom is: When I start the engine, its idle jumps to around 2,000 rpm and stays there. If I quickly put it in gear, then everything is fine and I can drive with no problems. If I let it set for a 10-30 seconds, then the engine will cut back (sound like its going to die) and either: 1. Die 2. Run very rough, like its missing 3. Idle just fine at 600-800 OBD codes: P0507 - Idle control system RPM high P1507 - Manf. Cntrl. Veh.Spd Idle Speed Control Auxiliary Inputs Since the swap is done, I'm creating a new thread to tackle this problem: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=734045#post734045

Either I didn't mark something well, or the 2.2 intake has some extra vaccum hoses that were not on the 2.5 I had. Can someone take a look at these pictures and let me know what they think? This first one is a picture of the 2.5 intake I took off. It has a hose that just loops around and connects back to another line. However, in the 2.2 intake, this hose has a T-connector in it with an 18 inch or so hose hanging off of it that I am not sure where it connects: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=20463&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=25315 This second picture is of the fuel tank purge that came with the 2.2 Engine. I dont remember seeing one on the 2.5. It has two lines coming in the bottom, and one on the top that I do not know where to connect it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=20462&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=25315 Let me know if you need more photos, and thanks for the help. Almost done with it!

On car-part.com, do I need to ask for quotes, or am I searching wrong? When I search for 1995 Subaru Legacy Engine the cheapest that comes up is ~$750 By 95 auto, I assume you mean 95 automatic transmission (just want to make sure)

Great! Thanks! So all I will need is maybe some new vaccum hoses? All the electric adapters, mounts, and flywheel-to-torque converter connections are the same? Any good websites I should check to buy one of the 2.2's? Are the 95's the only ones that will work as easily?

I bought a '98 OBW two weeks ago and have driven it 2 days It had 183,000 on it, but the previous owner told me the head gasket and a complete valve job were done at 155,000. It looked nice and test drove fine. However, after the 2 hour highway drive home, it overheated as I was pulling into my garage. "Great," I thought, "but at least a cooling problem shouldn't be too expensive to fix." Next day when I got to work it overheated and the upper radiator hose blew. I got a new hose, drove it home and changed the thermostat. Previous owner had gutted the thermostat... Now things are starting to look worse. Well, it still overheated have thermostat and radiator flush, and I started looking around and found I had every symptom of the head gasket, uggh. "Could be worse things to have to fix," I thought. Pulled the engine and found the block was warped .0025" to .003", right where the gasket failed. I took the heads to the shop before I checked the block and they had to machine off .006". I'm guessing they machined them before, so I would probably be pushing clearances/tolerances really close if I have the block resurfaced as well (plus I think tearing it down or having someone do it for me might cost just as much as a used engine). It had the newer MLS gasket on it. Obviously, they must not have checked the block last time around, or done something wrong for the new gasket to last less than 30,000 miles. Well, that's all she wrote for this engine So now I need a new one. I've read on here that the older 2.2's can be used to replace the 2.5's. What modifications are needed for this? How much should I expect to pay for a used 2.2? This is a great board and my first post. Too bad under these circumstances. I look forward to being a member of this board. I do like Subarus (got 290,000 on my last one). Thanks in advance for any help!