Numbchux

"One for each direction" I remember him saying he doesn't want to have to separately fill the aux tank. He'd like to flip a switch while filling the main tank to transfer it up to the aux tank. And then activate the second pump to transfer it in the other direction when needed.

The reason for 14g was the distance more than the amperage. I used 12 ft, it's erring on the side of caution, but probably a good idea. If 5A is peak, not continuous, 16g is probably fine. But you'll start seeing voltage drop, which can be hard on motor contacts/brushes. The cleanest and shortest path from the alternator would help that. I looked up the stuff I used on my 4Runner. I'm using these in different Amperage ratings, but they're available in many variations. Maxi Relay + connector and terminals, here's an 80a version of the relay https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/relays/mechanical-relays-and-connectors/cit-relay-and-switch-a3k1ccq12vdc1-6-maxi-relay-spdt-80a-12vdc-max-145vdc- Surface mount manual reset breaker https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/circuit-breakers/high-amp-circuit-breakers/eaton-s-bussmann-series-184080f-01-1-surface-mount I buy a lot from Waytek, or Mouser.

Personally, I don't think I would trust ABS wires. Small gauge, and twisted pairs. Maybe use all 4 rear ABS sensor wires as positives, and then ground to the body Using this calculator, default voltage drop and temperature, 14v, 5a, 12ft run, they recommend 14g. Alternatively, 22 g wire has about a 20% voltage drop.

I have not seen anything officially saying one way or the other. But I would also bet interference. Even the 2.2 went interference in '97ish. That said, I see the FSM has a specific note to use caution installing the timing belt on a 2.5, as incorrect timing could cause piston to valve contact, and there is no such note in the 3.0 timing chain section.... I don't think I've seen or known of one break a chain. I've heard timing chain noise several times before due to damaged/worn guides and/or tensioners. Not that it isn't possible, but I'd be highly skeptical that it just broke without making a bunch of noise. What Cam sensor code? P0340 is for cam sensor circuit, indicating a wiring issue or failed sensor, P0341 indicates good signal but out of time. I've had engines attempting to start with bad sensor data sound strange while cranking. If it broke on the highway, the valves are already bent. It'll turn over nicely now. Before you touch those cover bolts, definitely do a compression test. If it fails that, I would drop the exhaust and look up the ports at the valves you can see (IIRC the front valves are hard to see through the single exhaust ports), and then crank it again to see if you can hear the compression blowing out the exhaust. If you have cylinders with no compression, but the offending valve cover and check to see if the buckets move freely and smoothly. While a stuck valve won't prevent a bucket from moving all the way out, there won't be any spring pressure on it. I believe you can see the bank 2 chain through the oil filler cap. Drop the oil into a clean pan and look for debris. Cut open the filter for the same. I would expect to see considerable metal in the oil if the chain has been failing. Maybe even drop the lower pan and look for bigger pieces of debris. I have an 01 H6 with no compression on cylinder 3. It all blows out the exhaust. I removed the valve cover and can move the valve buckets/springs freely with a prybar, resistance and movement feels identical on all 6 exhaust valves on that side (I believe if the valve wasn't closing all the way, the spring/bucket would not return all the way). It will still run, just super rough. I believe it to be a burned valve. And I will almost certainly swap in a used engine before I bother pulling everything apart enough to replace a valve. I have a couple known good high mileage engines. Or maybe try to get a JDM, although those are a lot less common/cheap than they used to be.

And it still makes 200psi? Wow. I'm impressed. I'm pretty stumped by this. All 4 cylinders? I was thinking stuck injector, but it would be strange to be all 4. I know you know this, but I'm brainstorming. The injectors are pretty simple. One wire is constant power from the ignition relay. I can't think of a likely failure mode on either side of that that would cause more fueling. But also would require some seriously bunk input information for the ECU to actually command that much fuel. And even then, I would think it would throw a DTC and override to open loop "limp mode". I guess you could unplug the MAF, then you would know it's open loop, and see what that does. But it seems far more likely that it's something mechanical. A leaky or stuck injector, a hose connected incorrectly.

What year engine/wiring/ECU? What transmission does the ECU think it has (I assume it's a manual now)? Correct MAF sensor, IAC, TPS etc.? DTCs? I'm having the thought that hoses might have been switched and excess fuel is ending up in a vacuum line. But if it's getting pressure and running at all, I can't think how. Maybe return line right off the rail to a vacuum source? I'm just thinking out loud at this point. Or maybe temp sensor reading super cold? I know on our 04 EZ30 Outback, when the wires to that got chewed, it defaulted to 40*F. But it was about 10 below that day, so it would not fire. But maybe a short might make it read crazy cold?

We must not be thinking of the same thing. The dual range main case halves have considerably more machine work than the single range ones. You cannot just lay a dual range input shaft assembly and idler gearset into single range case halves. When I talk about the machining, I'm not talking about the transfer or extension housing. You can put FT4WD/AWD dual range input shaft and idler gear into a PT4WD DR case. But that's not what he has. The OPs question involves using what he has. I'm fairly certain importing a transmission from overseas is not what he's looking for.

Yep, several of both. I'm not a fan of the Baja, it's an Outback with less usable space, less weight capacity, and a novelty price premium. But my wife has always loved them, so we have 2. Non turbo Bajas use the single bulb headlight like the Legacy L. Turbos have the Outback/GT 2 bulb set. The exhaust is probably the same to the flange at the rear axle, but muffler is different (rear overhang is longer. Might be able to lengthen Outback muffler assembly to use on a Baja. I haven't looked that closely). Fuel tank is not specific to the Baja, but there are a few different part numbers depending on year and emissions. But a Federal 04 Outback and Federal 04 Baja will have the same tank. There are many things that are interchangeable but different. Dash trim is silver instead of wood grain, but interchangeable. Fenders, doors and front bumper will fit, but is different (I've heard that you can drill mounting holes in the Outback sheet metal and put the Baja cladding on it, but I haven't verified). Rear door glass is specific to body style (Sedan, Wagon, Baja). Outback seats will physically bolt in, but as with swapping between Outbacks, some have side airbags, power adjustment, etc. I think the rear seat will swap, as I remember someone wanting to have 3 seats there instead of 2, and I think they were successful. Most specific things to the Baja are unobtanium. Although I have been seeing more and more 3d printed parts for them. Some of the clips and trim for the bed area.

I'm ASSuming the GL-10 is a manual. If it's an auto, no. Just no, but I don't think there was one marketed as a locking center so I'm assuming manual. The input shaft is different depending on single or dual range. The latter being 2 piece for the extra gearset, and the former being one continuous shaft from the clutch disc through all 6 gears (don't forget reverse). The DR transmission case has a bunch of extra machining for the low range. It looks to me like the casting is the same and theoretically this could be duplicated, but would require some serious machine work. The Output shaft is different depending on FT4WD/AWD or PT4WD/FWD. The former being hollow so the pinion shaft can spin independent of the output shaft, the latter being one piece, pinion and output shaft. So in theory, you have an example of each. BUT (and it's a big one), these 2 transmissions have different ratios, so both would have to be disassembled and parts swapped for it to work. The 1st, Reverse and 2nd drive gear are part of the input shaft. So you would need to be able to put the associated driven gears from the PT4WD output shaft onto the FT4WD, the other 3 gearsets could be used from either, as long as it's a matched set, but 5th is very short in the turbo cars, so I would assume you'd want the non turbo set. I have not seen anyone try to swap them. I do know that all the bearings that those gears ride on are different part numbers between them. I got 98% done assembling an RX box with non turbo low range and 5th gears, EJ 4.444 ring and pinion and AWD center diff. I also wanted to use a Carbonetic clutch type front LSD, but it crashed hard into the low range gears, then the rest of the car didn't pan out.... But the EJ pinion gear does fit the EA82 FT4WD output shaft perfectly and then the EJ center housing bolts to the back of the EA82 front case.

90-04 Legacy/Outback with an auto is all interchangeable. Ujoints are staked in, but can be replaced. I've done many. I did a writeup on it years ago: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/driveshaft-u-joint-replacement.465866/ And yea, almost every car or crossover on the market with AWD has staked in joints, driveline shops are everywhere and generally very familiar with them.

It's 30 years old. It's only averaged about 1k miles per year, but it's traveled halfway around the world. Sitting is very hard on cars, depending on the environment. Being shipped across the pacific is very hard on cars. This is not going to be a turnkey car. The is going to be a labor of love (or money). Have something else to get you to work on time. There's nothing inherently wrong with the mechanicals of the EJ20H. Those are great heads, very difficult to warp. One of the better phase 1 shortblocks out there. But, the twin turbo systems are notoriously complicated. Using a nest of vacuum hoses and a bunch of solenoids to actuate all of that. Those hoses will likely be rotted and leaky. Good documentation on them is slim. Electronics are outdated, capacitors are likely leaking and causing a bunch of little issues. Anything rubber is dryrotted, anything greased is sticky. Many parts are shared with other models, some of those will still be available. Anything specific to that model with likely be very difficult to get. Convert to single turbo and a modern ECU, and it would probably be a great car.

You're going to drop the suspension ~8" and leave the steering rack where it is? That's going to require so much modification to the knuckles to try to maintain the geometry, much lower offset wheels (which will put more load on said steering). You don't need an entire second factory crossmember. You only need brackets to support the motor mounts. Add a plate to grab the 2 studs on the "back" (now front) of the differential. Generally at that height, the lift blocks spacing the crossmembers and other suspension pickup points are tied together to make a bit of a frame, and then the transfer case and "front" (now rear) of the new differential can mount to that. Good picture of the bottom. You can see all the extra bracing added from the suspension mounts, and crossmembers that mount the diff and tcase. As well as rock sliders. And a good picture of a front crossmember/engine mount situation. Lots of room for the steering shaft.

Generally the front crossmember is spaced down, and diff mounts fabbed to it (this way suspension and steering mounts are all kept correct), and then motor mounts fabbed above that, usually incorporated into the subframe spacers. Generally the crossmember needs to be spaced down from the body about 8" to provide adequate clearance to the oil pan. I think all the cars where I'd seen it done still ran the EA81 or EA82 engine, so not much power to speak of. Which probably helps keep the diff alive. And with actual lockers available now, it'd be a lot easier to abuse.

Manual transmission cars have the guide over the crank sprocket. I've seen the belts get grooved up if that's adjusted too tight. But I assume you've encountered that. I've not noticed any wear like that on a 2005+ car with the covers on.

Threebond 1324 is a thread locker and sealer. So on the bolts. Theoretically the gasket goes on dry, but I always put a smear of sealant on the gasket. I would probably use anaerobic if I were doing it now. I keep Permatex anaerobic on hand at home. Subaru also lists "3M™ High-Strength Threadlocker, #08730" as an alternative to 1324, which is likely much easier to source. More Threebond information than one could ever need (I found it VERY interesting) https://threebond.com/wp-content/uploads/Products-Guide_ver6-LOCAL.pdf Subaru replaces and updates what Threebond product to use so often that it's very difficult to follow. I just made a list of the 5 sealant products that are currently available from Subaru with notes about different applications to try to helps us keep them straight (I work in parts at a Subaru dealership). I have to say, I had a pretty visceral reaction when I saw a post from WJM in the list today.