Numbchux

www.partsouq.com Works with many manufacturers, and can lookup by VIN. I'm a dealership parts guy by trade, and I use it all the time. Sometimes has some good aftermarket interchange info, too. www.amayama.com has some, too. It's been a long time since I've used opposed forces.

So awesome. I love exploring that area! The time required to get my Outback or 4Runner into a condition to confidently do that is just not on my priority list right now. So I'm living vicariously through you!

I've had pretty poor luck with aftermarket ones leaking in less than a year. 25240KA041 genuine Subaru number, MSRP is $24.57. Every dealer has a pile of them (I have 15 at the moment). I used a Subaru switch on my Toyota Celica because I was tired of the aftermarket ones leaking and the Toyota one has an MSRP of $71

I've done a few different restoration techniques. None of them terribly difficult, and look great at first. But I generally see them start to cloud again within a year. I did one that involved protecting them with Spar Urethane, which I think lasted 2 or 3. Lately I just put some fine polishing compound on my buffer, and do a couple passes on them. I try to do this for our daily drivers every fall so they're perfect for the dark winter. The hardest part is finding the tote of car wash stuff and getting it out and an extension cord out to the cars. It's about 1 minute of actual buffing per car.

Yes. There is a calibration procedure for the Eyesight cameras. I think many glass companies can do it themselves (or maybe most of them just send it without calibrating....), but we do get them coming into the shop just for the calibration.

Yes, anything with an electronic parking brake (Subaru or otherwise) needs to have the system reset with new pads. The parking brake actuator is a stepper motor, and it needs to relearn where "home" is again. Just like turning the piston in on an EA82 front, or the self adjusters on a drum brake car, but electronically. I have a couple mid level ($100-200) scan tools that have an option for EPB relearn. I don't have any cars that need it, so I can't say how well it actually works. If you're doing any repair/diagnostic on a CAN OBD car yourself, you need a scan tool that can interface with other modules on the car.

Factory EA82 studs have about a 14.2mm knurl diameter (according to the Dorman listing), new gen Subarus are 14.38 (but the shoulder is too long for EA applications, as the rotor doesn't slip over the studs). Looks like I used a 35/64 drill bit (13.89mm). I also used Dorman 610378 studs, which have a 14.48mm knurl diameter, smaller head (easier to seat with the curved material on the back of the hub where they need to be), about 10mm longer overall, but short enough shoulder even for steelies (open lug nuts required, though).

Most shops are willing to press a bearing into a knuckle for a nominal fee. This would be far cheaper than replacing all those parts. Same amount of labor. Only downside is having the car apart for a trip to a shop. Heck, probably would still be economical to buy a junkyard knuckle and have a shop press in bearings. We had a customer bring their car into the dealership where I work for a rear bearing. Turned out it had a complete aftermarket knuckle installed not long ago (not purchased from a retailer willing to help with the replacement cost). We tried to install an OEM bearing, and it didn't fit! We had to replace the hub with an OEM one as well. Just another story of the risks of cheap parts.

I do not delete EGR on almost any of my vehicles. But I know they often have a temperature sensor as part of the circuit to verify the systems functionality. Good video, I suggest you watch it. Lots of good information about why it's supposed to be exhaust gasses. It's not "just air".

Super easy. Unplug the white connector from the module mounted vertically to the left of the steering column. Here's the old write-up on it, but looks like the pictures are dead. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/diy-disabling-drl-2000-2004.6668/

If the coolant bypassing the radiator (through the heater core[s] in this case) is adequately removing the heat, than the thermostat doesn't need to open. As long as there's adequate circulation, the thermostat will open when it's needed. In theory, removing the thermostat entirely can be counterproductive, as increasing the coolant flow means it doesn't spend enough time in the radiator to actually dissipate the heat.

Make sure you actually bypass the heater core. Circulation through that circuit is what warms up (and therefore opens) the thermostat.

So when the EGR valve opens, the engine revs up? It's supposed to go to the exhaust... I'm confused

Remove fuse 14 for 1 minute. Or disconnect the battery.

You connected your EGR pipe to the airbox? Um.....