Numbchux

What year engine/wiring/ECU? What transmission does the ECU think it has (I assume it's a manual now)? Correct MAF sensor, IAC, TPS etc.? DTCs? I'm having the thought that hoses might have been switched and excess fuel is ending up in a vacuum line. But if it's getting pressure and running at all, I can't think how. Maybe return line right off the rail to a vacuum source? I'm just thinking out loud at this point. Or maybe temp sensor reading super cold? I know on our 04 EZ30 Outback, when the wires to that got chewed, it defaulted to 40*F. But it was about 10 below that day, so it would not fire. But maybe a short might make it read crazy cold?

We must not be thinking of the same thing. The dual range main case halves have considerably more machine work than the single range ones. You cannot just lay a dual range input shaft assembly and idler gearset into single range case halves. When I talk about the machining, I'm not talking about the transfer or extension housing. You can put FT4WD/AWD dual range input shaft and idler gear into a PT4WD DR case. But that's not what he has. The OPs question involves using what he has. I'm fairly certain importing a transmission from overseas is not what he's looking for.

Yep, several of both. I'm not a fan of the Baja, it's an Outback with less usable space, less weight capacity, and a novelty price premium. But my wife has always loved them, so we have 2. Non turbo Bajas use the single bulb headlight like the Legacy L. Turbos have the Outback/GT 2 bulb set. The exhaust is probably the same to the flange at the rear axle, but muffler is different (rear overhang is longer. Might be able to lengthen Outback muffler assembly to use on a Baja. I haven't looked that closely). Fuel tank is not specific to the Baja, but there are a few different part numbers depending on year and emissions. But a Federal 04 Outback and Federal 04 Baja will have the same tank. There are many things that are interchangeable but different. Dash trim is silver instead of wood grain, but interchangeable. Fenders, doors and front bumper will fit, but is different (I've heard that you can drill mounting holes in the Outback sheet metal and put the Baja cladding on it, but I haven't verified). Rear door glass is specific to body style (Sedan, Wagon, Baja). Outback seats will physically bolt in, but as with swapping between Outbacks, some have side airbags, power adjustment, etc. I think the rear seat will swap, as I remember someone wanting to have 3 seats there instead of 2, and I think they were successful. Most specific things to the Baja are unobtanium. Although I have been seeing more and more 3d printed parts for them. Some of the clips and trim for the bed area.

I'm ASSuming the GL-10 is a manual. If it's an auto, no. Just no, but I don't think there was one marketed as a locking center so I'm assuming manual. The input shaft is different depending on single or dual range. The latter being 2 piece for the extra gearset, and the former being one continuous shaft from the clutch disc through all 6 gears (don't forget reverse). The DR transmission case has a bunch of extra machining for the low range. It looks to me like the casting is the same and theoretically this could be duplicated, but would require some serious machine work. The Output shaft is different depending on FT4WD/AWD or PT4WD/FWD. The former being hollow so the pinion shaft can spin independent of the output shaft, the latter being one piece, pinion and output shaft. So in theory, you have an example of each. BUT (and it's a big one), these 2 transmissions have different ratios, so both would have to be disassembled and parts swapped for it to work. The 1st, Reverse and 2nd drive gear are part of the input shaft. So you would need to be able to put the associated driven gears from the PT4WD output shaft onto the FT4WD, the other 3 gearsets could be used from either, as long as it's a matched set, but 5th is very short in the turbo cars, so I would assume you'd want the non turbo set. I have not seen anyone try to swap them. I do know that all the bearings that those gears ride on are different part numbers between them. I got 98% done assembling an RX box with non turbo low range and 5th gears, EJ 4.444 ring and pinion and AWD center diff. I also wanted to use a Carbonetic clutch type front LSD, but it crashed hard into the low range gears, then the rest of the car didn't pan out.... But the EJ pinion gear does fit the EA82 FT4WD output shaft perfectly and then the EJ center housing bolts to the back of the EA82 front case.

90-04 Legacy/Outback with an auto is all interchangeable. Ujoints are staked in, but can be replaced. I've done many. I did a writeup on it years ago: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/driveshaft-u-joint-replacement.465866/ And yea, almost every car or crossover on the market with AWD has staked in joints, driveline shops are everywhere and generally very familiar with them.

It's 30 years old. It's only averaged about 1k miles per year, but it's traveled halfway around the world. Sitting is very hard on cars, depending on the environment. Being shipped across the pacific is very hard on cars. This is not going to be a turnkey car. The is going to be a labor of love (or money). Have something else to get you to work on time. There's nothing inherently wrong with the mechanicals of the EJ20H. Those are great heads, very difficult to warp. One of the better phase 1 shortblocks out there. But, the twin turbo systems are notoriously complicated. Using a nest of vacuum hoses and a bunch of solenoids to actuate all of that. Those hoses will likely be rotted and leaky. Good documentation on them is slim. Electronics are outdated, capacitors are likely leaking and causing a bunch of little issues. Anything rubber is dryrotted, anything greased is sticky. Many parts are shared with other models, some of those will still be available. Anything specific to that model with likely be very difficult to get. Convert to single turbo and a modern ECU, and it would probably be a great car.

You're going to drop the suspension ~8" and leave the steering rack where it is? That's going to require so much modification to the knuckles to try to maintain the geometry, much lower offset wheels (which will put more load on said steering). You don't need an entire second factory crossmember. You only need brackets to support the motor mounts. Add a plate to grab the 2 studs on the "back" (now front) of the differential. Generally at that height, the lift blocks spacing the crossmembers and other suspension pickup points are tied together to make a bit of a frame, and then the transfer case and "front" (now rear) of the new differential can mount to that. Good picture of the bottom. You can see all the extra bracing added from the suspension mounts, and crossmembers that mount the diff and tcase. As well as rock sliders. And a good picture of a front crossmember/engine mount situation. Lots of room for the steering shaft.

Generally the front crossmember is spaced down, and diff mounts fabbed to it (this way suspension and steering mounts are all kept correct), and then motor mounts fabbed above that, usually incorporated into the subframe spacers. Generally the crossmember needs to be spaced down from the body about 8" to provide adequate clearance to the oil pan. I think all the cars where I'd seen it done still ran the EA81 or EA82 engine, so not much power to speak of. Which probably helps keep the diff alive. And with actual lockers available now, it'd be a lot easier to abuse.

Manual transmission cars have the guide over the crank sprocket. I've seen the belts get grooved up if that's adjusted too tight. But I assume you've encountered that. I've not noticed any wear like that on a 2005+ car with the covers on.

Threebond 1324 is a thread locker and sealer. So on the bolts. Theoretically the gasket goes on dry, but I always put a smear of sealant on the gasket. I would probably use anaerobic if I were doing it now. I keep Permatex anaerobic on hand at home. Subaru also lists "3M™ High-Strength Threadlocker, #08730" as an alternative to 1324, which is likely much easier to source. More Threebond information than one could ever need (I found it VERY interesting) https://threebond.com/wp-content/uploads/Products-Guide_ver6-LOCAL.pdf Subaru replaces and updates what Threebond product to use so often that it's very difficult to follow. I just made a list of the 5 sealant products that are currently available from Subaru with notes about different applications to try to helps us keep them straight (I work in parts at a Subaru dealership). I have to say, I had a pretty visceral reaction when I saw a post from WJM in the list today.

I would bet externally interchangeable. Definitely different internals, but I suspect due to different assist amounts. I know the pumps have different volume and pressure specs. I'd try it. YMMV

Well, it's more complicated than I implied. The current part number, 11044AA610, is steel as far as I can tell. There are 3 older part numbers that were replaced by the 610, I am much less clear what the material of those were, either from my memory or service manuals. So the factory installed ones might have been a different material.

It is here, too. But getting another rust free shell is no small feat in this part of the world. IIRC he travelled to California for this one. Not to mention the modifications already done to this one. That looks pretty nasty, but all ahead of the suspension mounts, so it doesn't need to be mm perfect.

Yep, Subaru shows 879996 as the Transmission serial and 424274 for the engine (IIRC stamped into the engine block next to the starter).

The 4EATs are not picky about what fluid to use. You can buy Dex III, it's usually labeled Dex/Merc (Dexron/Mercon). That's the cheap conventional stuff, works great, meets all the specifications. I buy 2.5g house brand jugs of it at Fleet Farm. All Dexrons are backwards compatible. So you can use those. Most will be synthetic (certainly anything you can find new) Subaru officially superseded to HP. So anything that meets Subaru HP will also work. This will all be synthetic. This is what we carry and use (I work at a Subaru dealership) I honestly think the change to HP was just to use a synthetic so they can extend suggested service intervals and/or in an attempt to reduce resistance for better mileage. I have not found any part or seal that changed part number when they switched to the HP. If I had a newer 4EAT, I'd dump conventional dex/merc in it.