Numbchux

Good engine. 5EAT is lovely when it works. I think higher failure rate than 4 speeds. Prepare for electrical issues. Rear tailgate harness breakage. Passenger airbag light fails and disables the entire airbag system. Any trouble code disables the cruise.

There's the buffer and a buffer cover Covers are discontinued, but there are still a few buffers in the Subaru of America warehouses, Any Subaru dealer in the US can order them. $15-20 ea

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Those Hyundais have an upper control arm. The shock is not designed to support lateral loads.

I've never needed more than a good hammer on a Subaru. My 8lb mini-maul usually pops it off in one hit. loosen, but do not remove, the bolt. And smack the end of the knuckle where the tie rod goes through it (not the tie rod itself). I rented a tool similar to the one linked for my Suburban, but the hammer-smack still did the brunt of the work.

It's not hard. 2 bolts for the washer reservoir, one hose clamp for the airbox, loosen the 2 bolts for the pitch stopper, one nut on the motor mount. Floor jack and a piece of wood and the spark plugs are super easy to get to.

Thanks for your contribution?

Airbox and washer reservoir out, pitchstopper loose, remove motor mount nut on one side, lift the engine and it will tilt up. Easy access to spark plugs/compression test.

I use partsouq.com a lot for various manufacturers, occasionally Subaru (I work at a Subaru dealership, so the VAST majority of my Subaru cataloging is licensed software right from Subaru of America), but similarly they don't usually have stuff right up to current years. parts.subaru.com has abridged diagrams for all current US models.

800211050 and 800211060 are the part numbers in the Subaru Catalog, and is the only part number I see for EA82 cars. (I work in parts at a Subaru dealership). I never did take the heads off an EA82 car, in fact I scrapped many running ones in favor of an EJ22. So I don't claim to know the dimensions. But those are the correct part numbers. They are discontinued. But my parts locator shows Nelson Subaru in Martinsville, VA having 5 of the 060 bolts in stock. If that's accurate, they'd probably be tickled pink to sell them.

"One for each direction" I remember him saying he doesn't want to have to separately fill the aux tank. He'd like to flip a switch while filling the main tank to transfer it up to the aux tank. And then activate the second pump to transfer it in the other direction when needed.

The reason for 14g was the distance more than the amperage. I used 12 ft, it's erring on the side of caution, but probably a good idea. If 5A is peak, not continuous, 16g is probably fine. But you'll start seeing voltage drop, which can be hard on motor contacts/brushes. The cleanest and shortest path from the alternator would help that. I looked up the stuff I used on my 4Runner. I'm using these in different Amperage ratings, but they're available in many variations. Maxi Relay + connector and terminals, here's an 80a version of the relay https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/relays/mechanical-relays-and-connectors/cit-relay-and-switch-a3k1ccq12vdc1-6-maxi-relay-spdt-80a-12vdc-max-145vdc- Surface mount manual reset breaker https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/circuit-breakers/high-amp-circuit-breakers/eaton-s-bussmann-series-184080f-01-1-surface-mount I buy a lot from Waytek, or Mouser.

Personally, I don't think I would trust ABS wires. Small gauge, and twisted pairs. Maybe use all 4 rear ABS sensor wires as positives, and then ground to the body Using this calculator, default voltage drop and temperature, 14v, 5a, 12ft run, they recommend 14g. Alternatively, 22 g wire has about a 20% voltage drop.

I have not seen anything officially saying one way or the other. But I would also bet interference. Even the 2.2 went interference in '97ish. That said, I see the FSM has a specific note to use caution installing the timing belt on a 2.5, as incorrect timing could cause piston to valve contact, and there is no such note in the 3.0 timing chain section.... I don't think I've seen or known of one break a chain. I've heard timing chain noise several times before due to damaged/worn guides and/or tensioners. Not that it isn't possible, but I'd be highly skeptical that it just broke without making a bunch of noise. What Cam sensor code? P0340 is for cam sensor circuit, indicating a wiring issue or failed sensor, P0341 indicates good signal but out of time. I've had engines attempting to start with bad sensor data sound strange while cranking. If it broke on the highway, the valves are already bent. It'll turn over nicely now. Before you touch those cover bolts, definitely do a compression test. If it fails that, I would drop the exhaust and look up the ports at the valves you can see (IIRC the front valves are hard to see through the single exhaust ports), and then crank it again to see if you can hear the compression blowing out the exhaust. If you have cylinders with no compression, but the offending valve cover and check to see if the buckets move freely and smoothly. While a stuck valve won't prevent a bucket from moving all the way out, there won't be any spring pressure on it. I believe you can see the bank 2 chain through the oil filler cap. Drop the oil into a clean pan and look for debris. Cut open the filter for the same. I would expect to see considerable metal in the oil if the chain has been failing. Maybe even drop the lower pan and look for bigger pieces of debris. I have an 01 H6 with no compression on cylinder 3. It all blows out the exhaust. I removed the valve cover and can move the valve buckets/springs freely with a prybar, resistance and movement feels identical on all 6 exhaust valves on that side (I believe if the valve wasn't closing all the way, the spring/bucket would not return all the way). It will still run, just super rough. I believe it to be a burned valve. And I will almost certainly swap in a used engine before I bother pulling everything apart enough to replace a valve. I have a couple known good high mileage engines. Or maybe try to get a JDM, although those are a lot less common/cheap than they used to be.

And it still makes 200psi? Wow. I'm impressed. I'm pretty stumped by this. All 4 cylinders? I was thinking stuck injector, but it would be strange to be all 4. I know you know this, but I'm brainstorming. The injectors are pretty simple. One wire is constant power from the ignition relay. I can't think of a likely failure mode on either side of that that would cause more fueling. But also would require some seriously bunk input information for the ECU to actually command that much fuel. And even then, I would think it would throw a DTC and override to open loop "limp mode". I guess you could unplug the MAF, then you would know it's open loop, and see what that does. But it seems far more likely that it's something mechanical. A leaky or stuck injector, a hose connected incorrectly.