Numbchux

USDM 4EATs are generally very reliable. I would much prefer to buy a used one locally than from an importer. $1500 installed is a good price, especially if that includes a warranty (most junkyards will offer a parts and labor warranty on major components to shops that they work with a lot). I see several on car-part near me for ~$500-800.

@idosubaru is exactly right. You'll have to tear it down to take the timing belt off, but the crank will clean up. Tighten it up as tight as you can. Jam something in the flexplate/flywheel, and tighten that bolt as hard as you can. I've said many times the key is not necessary once assembled, but I would think it would be annoying to get it lined up without (I've never tried it). So I've replaced it on the couple that I've done. I've also seen enough of these where the bolt has come loose, but the key has briefly kept it from jumping time. Parts aren't terribly unique. There are a couple different crank sprockets, as they have the teeth on the backside for the crank sensor. There's a 6 or 7 tooth one, and a ~35 tooth one. Balancers are basically all identical. No. The tow bar will not fit between an Impreza and Liberty/Legacy.

I definitely would have replaced that tensioner. It has a hydraulic damper in it, which can leak and fail. I have had a Gates tensioner blow the damper and just operate from the spring, and it would slam closed and sounded like an engine knock. I can't believe it didn't jump timing.

That's interesting that the interchange only shows 2000. I'm not aware of any differences between 2000, and 01-03. If I had a 2000 that needed a transmission, and I had an 01-03 one, I would put it in....

Possible, but unlikely. More commonly it's a wiring issue. Key on, engine not running, the check engine light should be on. If this doesn't happen, 99% of the time the ECU is not being turned on (getting all the power/ground that it needs). If you're at your whit's end. Spending some money to modernize the system wouldn't be a bad idea. But it's a big job to get it installed and tuned.

04 was a revision, and, from what I understand, the valve body changed, so it will not work correctly with the older TCU. 4-cyl and H6 have different gear ratios. If you just punch in your car on car-part.com, it'll show you junkyard listings for compatible parts.

The VTD is a far superior AWD system, and while they use the same clutches to actuate it as MPT, when they are actuated is different. The post I linked is a guy that used the VTD mechanicals with an MTD system. He talks about using the FWD fuse to change how it operates. I think he's likely relying on the mechanical function of the diff, and the electronic LSD function is not likely working (like using a DCCD center diff without a controller). But I'm not sure exactly.

This thread mentions putting a VTD center diff housing on a 2006 MPT transmission. Not really specific on the details, but one picture of the different parts, and some parts lists. https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2006-mpt-to-vtd-conversion.37441/ I don't think I'd bother. '01-'03 LL Beans are not rare. Just get the correct transmission and swap it in.

Still have to disassemble the strut assembly to swap strut mount. Honestly, from what it sounds, I'd probably just use the Impreza ones. They're not correct, but they're likely better than what you have, or any of the cheap garbage you're looking at. Yes, you'll have to swap the strut mounts, but you could buy a pair of aftermarket mounts and rent a spring compressor or even pay a shop to swap them for cheap.

No gasket. FIPG. Subaru only sells it in caulking tubes, which is way too big. I do like Hondabond or Toyota Black, which both are available in smaller tubes. Otherwise, the "Right Stuff"

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/fog-light-modification-how-to.519679/unread This is slightly different with H6 cars, if that's what you have. But should give you an idea.

Lots of pictures, including pictures of part numbers: https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+separator+plate&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AOaemvJFQdRQ0RoofFl7zQfd8aYaO1QDOQ%3A1635518965614&source=hp&biw=1680&bih=907&ei=9Ql8YaqKI9XT-gSDwpn4DQ&iflsig=ALs-wAMAAAAAYXwYBccUVcVbX8epDbOq4csNmQOr9lgV&oq=13265AA470&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQA1D2Alj2AmD7BGgAcAB4AIABQYgBQZIBATGYAQCgAQKgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZw&sclient=img&ved=0ahUKEwjq2N337u_zAhXVqZ4KHQNhBt8Q4dUDCAY&uact=5 Add "Dorman" to the search for that part number.

You are modifying the vehicle, you're going to get that. If you want every manufacturer of every part on your vehicle to be happy, only use OEM, do not carry any weight and do not leave the pavement. I'd run the Bilstein's and Rallitek springs.

You likely won't, certainly not from a quality manufacturer. Just get a couple KYB Excel Gs, and rent a spring compressor.

That says not to use a lift spring. The springs I see are stiffer but at stock height.

Outback sport is likely a bit taller and valved softer (lighter car). IIRC the upper strut mounts are a different bolt pattern between the Impreza and Legacy chassis in that vintage, but if you're just using the struts. Not ideal, but doable.

I've only heard good things about the Bilstein's. I've been tempted to experiment on retrofitting them onto one of my older platforms. I've not heard anything negative about running them with King springs, Primitive racing recommends that combination and offers them assembled that way: https://get-primitive.com/struts/686-bilstein-b6-struts-2014-2018-forester.html When I was looking, I thought the Kings were likely stiffer than I wanted, so I went with RalliTek. Who I see also recommend and sell assembled on Bilsteins. https://www.rallitek.com/en/750-assembled-strut-kits

Yep. Likely the rear separator plate. It's updated to a stamped steel plate which requires different bolts. Dorman makes a kit, or get them from your local dealer. Clutch application didn't really change. Likely the only difference is clamping force/torque holding. 2.5 would be a hydraulic-operated, where 2.2 would be cable. But they should both be push style... Exedy makes the best stock-replacement clutches, IMHO. Although, I've been pretty happy with my $40 ebay clutch kit I put in my '00 Outback about 40k miles ago...

What EJ22? What indications that it's overheating? Factory gauge? Aftermarket gauge? Infrared thermometer? Does the heat work when it happens? Use a radiator test kit to pressurize the system and look for your leak. Could easily be introducing air into the system, which is causing your problems.

Anything is possible. Rear diff is almost certainly a different ratio, so that'll have to be swapped as well. Not ideal ratios for non-turbo and tall tires. ASSuming the Forester is already a 5-speed. It will likely be a pull-style clutch, where the WRX will be push-style. They should both be hydraulic, so you'll just use the WRX flywheel/clutch/slave cylinder. I *think* a 99 aussie car will be phase 2, 8 bolt bellhousing. It's possible it's a phase 1, with 4-bolt bellhousing, in which case you'll be missing the lower starter bolt. There are about 6 ways to deal with this, documented thousands of times on the internet.

1996 is OBD II. Plug in a scan tool and see what's wrong. Then test the circuit and repair.

Nope, phase 2 revision 2 started in 2004.

It happened, I got some time for a project! They're both top feed injectors, but the 2.5 one is different, using a different O-ring and a retaining clip to the rail, and with an extra section on the end for the Air Injection system. 2021-10-18_10-01-19 by Numbchux, on Flickr I put it back together as it was, but it leaks, so it'll have to come apart, again. I've seen people talking about using WRX top feed injectors when turbocharging an EJ251, but they generally block off the air injection system. I'd rather leave things as stock as possible.....but might have to experiment. I think it's either modify until the 2.0 injectors work. Adjustable pressure regulator to drop the fuel pressure. Or have a trouble code.

I just remembered the other thing I did. I hooked up a battery and used the starter. It can apply way more torque to the rotating assembly than you can on the crank bolt.

I loosened the case half bolts a couple turns, and smacked the crank snout side to side with a mallet a few times, and was able to get mine to turn over enough to get to all the converter bolts.