Numbchux

Sounds like you need a new mechanic. I've been working in dealership parts departments for about 10 years, now. And every vehicle gets a thorough inspection, and when necessary, potential failures are communicated/quoted to the customer and any work declined is clearly noted on the repair order for our records and theirs.

Typically listed aftermarket as a bypass hose, but it's actually inline with the heater hose circuit. Crucial to thermostat operation. Since it's such a simple hose with a bend, most parts stores stock one that will fit (sometimes with some trimming). If not, there are self-adhesive silicone hose repair tapes that work fairly well for emergency repairs. I try to keep a roll in my cars most of the time.

Yep, different terminology for the same thing. CEL is trying to tell you what's wrong. Pull the codes. My crystal ball is a little hazy.

Several good links in the FAQ in the retrofitting section:

Not any more than anything else that's approaching 20 years old. A lot of mistakes and neglect can happen in that time. My '00 has been well cared-for, and I wish it would run warmer. Only on the hottest days do the coolant temps get above 180, when it's below zero outside, it barely gets over 160. I'm thinking about replacing the OEM stat with a cheap aftermarket one to let it warm up a bit. OEM SOHC headgaskets usually leak oil externally. Overheating is more often caused by dirty radiator, failed fans, plugged heater core, etc.

+1 for boot replacement on the old axle.

Ideally, careful oil pressure monitoring and lab testing of the used oil will tell you what works best for you. For my daily drivers, I'm wholeheartedly of the opinion that the best oil is new oil. I use the cheapest 5w30 I can get my hands on (usually Walmart or Fleet Farm house brands) and change it more often then recommended. I'm a bit more picky on filters, but not by a lot. I have a pressure gauge and a 11mm oil pump on my EJ25 daily, and don't see much of a difference in pressures summer to winter (it's 93*F here today, and not uncommon to see 40 below days in the winter. Although my car does spend overnights in an unheated/uninsulated garage, so we have to get a pretty good gold stretch for it to be below zero in the mornings.

^what he said. The '99 SOHC is phase 2, the '90 is phase 1. A lot of little differences between the 2. Different intake manifold bolt pattern, so you have to graft the new wiring onto the old manifold. The '99 likely has a MAP sensor in the intake, so this will have to be retrofitted. You'll probably have to use the '99 throttle body. etc. etc. etc. Doable? Yes Logical? Not really. More work than just replacing head gaskets, or installing a low mileage jdm engine.

Any modern standalone can run an EJ engine. Some will run better, some will require modification. Depends what you want, and what engine/configuration you're planning to run. Talk to your tuner. They all have preferences/specialties for different brand of ECU. Haltech and Link seem to be the big consumer grade manufacturers these days. There's also Megasquirt and Speeduino if you don't mind the extra work of open source hardware.

I ordered on Amazon for the quick shipping. Here's the exact one I purchased: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07XDNHQTM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details If you search the valve body part number (31825AA052) on Amazon, there are about 20 listings for the solenoid. I just picked the one I could get the quickest. I've seen some reviews saying they had these aftermarket solenoids not last nearly as long as the original (failing within weeks or even months...), so time will tell. But I wouldn't mind doing this a few times over the rest of the life of the car rather then spend the money on a new OEM valve body. Interestingly, I read that the lock up solenoids and at least the 2 shift solenoids are the same (AWD solenoid sure looks the same, too. But that was not listed where I saw this), so pulling used shift solenoids from core valve bodies to replace the lock up solenoid is a decent option.

Checked on my lunch break, and the Permanent code was gone. So probably 4 or 5 drive cycles to clear that. Good as new.

Pitch stopper bracket removed, and throttle body to make it easier. And the valve body came right out. This article shows which bolts hold the valve body in. And which solenoid is which. https://gearsmagazine.com/magazine/subaru-cvt-gen-2-valve-body/ Found this video showing how to release the wires from the solenoid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6FaBvGSTec The cavern where the valve body was: 20210616_212603 by Numbchux, on Flickr The culprit (or, rather, the replacement...) 20210616_210238 by Numbchux, on Flickr I've driven it about 4 times, since. The Pending and confirmed codes cleared and have not come back. I haven't driven it enough to clear the Permanent code, but I have no reason to suspect that won't come. It is interesting watching the function. Once the transmission is warmed up, it locks the converter at about 15 mph, and lets the transmission do it from there on.

Did a little experimenting last night. The Android program ActiveOBD can read lock up duty with my Carista ELM bluetooth dongle. If I shut off the car and clear the codes, and then try to drive it, it will try to lock up the converter 2 or 3 times, and the car lurches a bit as it happens, then the light starts flashing. Once the light is flashing, it doesn't even try to lock it up. Solenoid is supposed to arrive today, so I started tearing it down last night. The 2 steel dowel pins in the aluminum housing after 185k Minnesota miles put up quite a fit (I don't know why it has pins at all, it's just a cover, the alignment is not that crucial). There is nothing on the edge to pry from. There's a boss for a bolt for a ground wire on the left front corner of the cover. I threaded a longer bolt in there, and was able to use the claw of my hammer to pry up on that on the ground bracket for the starter, and wedge the handle of the hammer against the cowl. I called it quits after that, so hopefully the body comes out without a fight (I suspect I'll have to remove the pitch stopper bracket from the transmission, at least, to make room) and I can get it all put back together tonight. Interestingly, the catalog shows a gasket for that cover by VIN. But it was sealed with just a smear of FIPG (the perfect amount, so I think it was probably factory). New gasket is a stamped steel one like an OEM water pump gasket.

I followed the FSM diagnostic procedure. Tested the wiring for a short, none. Tested the resistance of that solenoid, should be about 13 ohms, and it reads about 3. I picked up new orings and a cover gasket from the dealership, and I'll remove the valve body tonight (I'll do the other test while it's out to test the short section of wiring that goes into the trans then). New solenoid is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. I'm hoping to drive it to work on Thursday, and her rental car has to go back on Friday.

Next things to inspect are brake caliper slides and suspension bushings.

CVT Fluid level is not easy to check. Nope. She drives the crap out of it. We replaced a lot of valve bodies at the dealership with good results. And the code only refers to the electrical circuit, so it really has to either be the solenoid or wiring to it.

My mom's car. She was driving up to visit my kids. Her AT Oil Temp light began flashing. Looked it up to find that being an error code, I told her to continue on carefully. After about 20 miles, the light came on solid, indicating transmission overheating. So she pulled off and let it cool off. I read a P2764 code (Lock up solenoid low). She got a rental car, and will be leaving hers with me, so I'll do some diagnostics this weekend, but the symptoms fit that the converter wasn't locking, which would generate quite a bit more heat on the highway. I remembered that solenoids are not available separately, and handing out valve bodies a lot when I worked at the dealership. Called over there, sure enough, they have one on the shelf (MSRP $808). So for nearly $1500. Quick google search pops up numerous individual solenoids available aftermarket for about $100. The valve body is on top of the transmission, theoretically accessible from the engine bay (don't have to drain the fluid!). I'll update with my findings. Any suggestions/experience appreciated.

The pros do not use gauges, only by weight. I work at an equipment dealer, where we do some A/C work. Not enough to justify a $1000+ machine. We buy 12oz cans instead of a keg, specifically for accuracy. If you're going to use a keg, you should at least have a scale to weigh it accurately.

Should be an EJ253 (variable valve timing SOHC 2.5). Wiring into the tailgate fatigues and breaks. If you get any electrical gremlins pertaining to taillights, defrost, rear wiper, etc., pull back the boot where the harness goes from the body to tailgate. Obviously wires can be repaired, but the whole harness from Subaru isn't too expensive (there are at least 3 part numbers, make sure to use your VIN. They were on the shelf at the dealership where I worked). Rear bushing for the front control arms is now mounted vertically, and has to flex when the suspension moves. Much more likely to wear out. Any trouble codes will disable cruise control I don't think a 2006 Base model would have an immobilizer, but double check. If it does, do not loose your last key!

If it hasn't worn through the caps into the yoke, the joints can be replaced. I've done a few myself (requires a press). Or a driveline shop can probably do it for pretty cheap. I've had the same luck with used ones, they're all junk.

Yea, it was weird on those older cars. The paint code listed was unique to the 2 tone cars. At the dealership where I worked, we had an old touch-up paint book that broke that into 2 separate paint codes.

Have you talked to an actual dealer parts department? I don't believe for a second that those are not available, we sold them all the time. But sometimes there are some oddball supersessions.

That's a start. Any more information that would be relevant? Vibration that worsens under load SCREAMS driveshaft ujoint. Pull the shaft and wiggle those joints around, I bet one of them is seized.

Yep, there's a little bushing between the shifter arm and the cable that is usually seized in there. There are 4 or 5 different numbers over the years, but the dealership I worked at stocked them, as it's a fairly common failure in this part of the world.

@Scott in Bellingham aka www.sjrlift.com does lifts and EJ adapter plates. I'm not sure if he takes on customer projects @GeneralDisorder aka http://superiorsoobie.com/ has a shop that's more than capable, but he's down near Portland