Numbchux

Yes, dash has to come out for that repair. Talk to the dealer, they should make it right.

Aluminum, to be specific. It transfers a lot of heat energy into the adjacent parts, without burning things. Extremely helpful.

Everything was reusable after heating that up. And it made a HUGE difference.

Yea, sounds like it is not binding in the threads, but seized into the steel sleeve that's bonded to the bushing in the crossmember. So yea, the rubber will absorb a lot of the motion from the impact wrench. You can kind of see it here: 20191012_175953 by Numbchux, on Flickr I just spent some time with the catalogs, and it looks like that bushing is not available separately (from Subaru, a quick google search didn't turn up anything, but I didn't do a deep dive). Does the sleeve stick out enough at the bottom that you might be able to grab it with a pliers/vice-grip? I don't know what else to tell you. Keep it soaked in penetrating oil. And heating that spacer made a considerable difference with mine, and it was the bolt seized into the captive nut, so it transfers quite a bit of heat into adjacent parts. 2019-10-14_08-20-28 by Numbchux, on Flickr

The spacer between the subframe and body is aluminum, I found this extremely effective at transferring heat without damaging things when I removed the subframe in my '00. Interesting test of penetrating oil. I keep Deep Creep around since watching this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=st8dkGzJWtg Although, if I'm picturing what's happening correctly. If that sleeve is spinning inside the bushing, the bushing is wrecked anyway.

Yes, running 10 feet of 5/16, and then necking it down to 3/16 defeats the purpose. T it into the vent line or something (I've been reading up about converting our boat to EFI, and this is generally how it's done). But yea, for testing purposes, into a separate container is fine (you know, fire hazard and such). It won't turn over at all? If so, it may be hydrolocked. Try turning it over by hand, if not, pull the plugs and crank it. Does the ECU control the fuel pump? Or is it staying on when the engine isn't running? I've been approaching this as if it's been just running really rich. But if it's actually filled the cylinder and hydrolocked the engine, then fuel is getting in while the engine is off.

It may be possible to do in the car, but it's going to be a nightmare. Like the DOHC 4-cylinders, the cams have to be removed to access the head bolts. When you take the exhaust cams out, the exhaust buckets will fall out unless you can roll the engine on it's side. If you insist on doing the repair, do yourself the favor, and pull the engine. @GeneralDisorder, do you have a preferred JDM importer?

The VDC system uses a yaw sensor, steering sensor, wheel speed sensors, and more information from the ECU and TCU to determine if it thinks you're sliding sideways and can grab the brakes individually via the ABS pump to help regain control. If the VDC light isn't on all the time, you probably don't have an issue with any of those sensors themselves. But if the suspension isn't in good shape, that can throw off the readings. Our '04 VDC would grab the brakes on some LH curves until I got an alignment, but worn suspension components (ball joints, rod ends, shocks/struts and of course any of the 18 bushings) can confuse the system. I bought some Rallitek overload rear springs and KYB Excel Gs that will be going on our "new" '02 VDC once I get to it.

Yea, been tried a couple times. I typed "reuse ML..." into Google, it autofilled to "reuse MLS head gasket" and gave thousands of results. I randomly clicked on a page, and found a post on this very forum.

I've done several, but can't picture exactly how it came apart. But I removed the board with the brushes on it from the case, and installed it on the shaft first, and then put the case over the top.

I, too, have replaced several. My '04 35th ann Outback was seized solid. I messed with it for awhile, swapped the handle for one from a parts car, and there was no change. After playing with the linkages for a bit, it turned out to be a seized lock cylinder not fully returning to the "open" position.

Axles are definitely different. 01 will have male splines on the transmission the others will have female. Off the top of my head, I'd say the LGT and Forester are likely 4.44, Impreza probably 4.11. I know the version 2 of the phase 2 transmission started in 2004, which is why the transmission in my '04 VDC is unique to that year. I know the valve body changed, but exactly how it changed and how it would function in the other vehicle, I do not know. Spend some time with the FSMs, specifically the TCM I/O pages and see what information is going between it and the solenoids. It might work OK, or you might be able to wire the solenoids so you can manually have 1st and 2nd.

dealership. They likely have bags of them

If the video plays for 10 seconds, it's a "view", and even a thumbs down is interaction, so is part of the monetizing algorithm. Best to not click it.

Ah, I didn't catch that you were in Canada. Yea, I know JDM cars don't have it, so that doesn't surprise me.

The VIN is on the RH side, vertical surface.

253 and 255 are very different engines. 253 being SOHC and 255 being DOHC Turbo. All USDM shortblocks since the mid '90s have the VIN stamped into a flat on the RH side of the block next to the bellhousing.

www.Partsouq.com for VIN specific lookup. Part # 85111AA051 '90-'94-specific. https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts/subaru-meter-unit-assembly-fuel-sub~85111aa051.html

They made 3.0s for over 10 years.... '01-'04 has 3. One on each side right by the heads, and one right after the 2 pipes join into one in the secondary cat, right before the flange to the midpipe.

You had a speedometer issue? The ECU is programmed to use the VSS to idle up to prevent stalling while stopped...no VSS could have been your issue. Hopefully this doesn't get confusing with 2 people diagnosing in the same thread... Does it stop immediately when the car stops? Seem to fight the brakes a lot? Car lugs like a clutch still engaged? If you bump it into neutral when you feel it start to happen, does it idle up normally? Or can you come to a stop, and after a few seconds it will putter out? I had a '99 SUS years ago that wouldn't release the torque converter, especially when the transmission was cold. We tried fluid, filters, even a lockup solenoid. Eventually got our hands on a cheap transmission and swapped it in (converter and all) and it went away. I suspect just a converter would have done it.

We use our sunroof all the time. The cable that operates the front one is broken, so you have to push it up manually, but no other issues. I did just buy an '02 VDC that someone has glued the front sunroof shut, but it only has 120k miles on it, so it's been sitting a lot, so I'm guessing the drains are clogged. I will be cutting it open to try to remedy it correctly. I've not had any relay issues. A lot of variables for mileage, but that sounds about right. I don't calculate mine, as 90% of my miles are in town. I hear a lot on the internet about an oring in the fuel pump assembly that swells, and cracks the tab on the metal cap it's under. Dorman even makes a repair kit for it, now. I've not had an issue with it, but we have fairly low ethanol content up here.

The transmission is not your weak link. The 3AT sucks, but you'll melt a dozen EA82ts long before you break a 3AT.

My first thoughts are a post MAF intake leak or leaking fuel pressure regulator. Both can cause some strange running symptoms.

The hill holder will operate one circuit (RF/LR or LF/RR, I don't know which off the top of my head). If it's a problem, it could be replaced with a M10 Tee fitting.

If it has a hill holder, one channel splits at the hill holder, and the other will come right from the master (3 port master). If not, all 4 lines originate from the master (4 port). There's a proportioning valve in there somewhere in line to the rears, on the EJ cars, it's under the hood, but I think on the EA82s it's under the car in the rear.