Numbchux

my 275k mile EJ22 in my loyale really doesn't like it. even with the red top, it just won't fire up below unless it's had the block heater on. And even then, I let it idle for about 25 minutes this morning (heat off, rad fan off)....and it still barely moved the temp gauge. the XT6 fires up pretty easily, this morning (14 below) it cranked pretty slow at first, but still no trouble. and it warms up quick too!

go ahead and put the idea of putting WRX suspension in the back of a brat out of your mind. would be an insane amount of fabrication to get it to work right.....and if you can do that, move to the UK and get a job at ProDrive!! in all seriousness. a wrx rear diff is an R160, just like a gen 1 brat rear diff. all you have to do is put the wrx inner DOJ cups on the brat shafts (will probably take an adapter race...but very doable!).

all of the above. turbo, uppipe, and downpipe, all take up space currently occupied by brake booster, shift linkage, and clutch master (if applicable). with some substantial modification, you could relocate the second turbo to be more friendly....but, as mentioned, the amount of work shows very little gains. it's a ton of fabrication for an overly complicated motor with comparable power numbers to single turbo motors of similar generation. now, if you've got yourself a RHD postal legacy.....go for it. in any other situation....don't. the extra bucks to purchase an EJ20G verses an H is worth it.

the bottom of the pan definitely hangs down lower than the bottom of the EA82 pan. but IIRC there's a bit more clearance between the pan and the crossmember.....

it's actually quite easy, once you understand the traction circle, and weight transfer. also, FYI, when in 4WD (center locked), it doesn't matter where the handbrake is, when you pull it, it'll lock up all 4. which really doesn't help you. I've been running rear handbrake for a couple years now (you'll notice, the third link posted above was written by me....that's my wagon). I've never used the handbrake to induce a slide.....and a little searching will yield dozens of pictures/videos of my cars in large controlled slide. put it in FWD, and find some open space where you can't hit anything. learn to get a FWD, front handbrake vehicle to slide, and you'll be a better driver for it. that's how I learned it!

I will probably take you up on that offer eventually. but no way am I delving into anything this serious until the loyale has it's new motor and the 4runner is back on the road (so not until summer sometime, most likely). I think you've hit the nail on the head with what you've done. full auto shifting, as well as full manual (I'm assuming when you're using the paddles, it doesn't downshift on it's own like it does with the stock selecters). and the DCCD knob is genious!! did you make the DCCD knob, or use an STi one? replacing/upgrading the transfer clutches will probably happen next summer, regardless. as there's quite a bit of slip right now.

yep, if it's a lifted rig, you got no business driving it hard anyway. I disconnected one front link on my first lifted wagon thinking it would be a temporary thing. it never got reconnected. and shortly after that, it was removed entirely.

Ho-Ly Crap I'm officially beyond impressed. I would absolutely LOVE to do this on my XT6. but I definitely wouldn't have a clue on where to start in the reprogramming of the TCU. could it be set up to have a switch/button for a full-auto mode?

I know the DOHCs don't have it. and was just looking at a phase 2 EJ22 today, and noticed it doesn't have it. here's a picture of an EJ22 with the cap on it. it's the funny cap held on by 2 bolts on the back of the head on the right side of the pic. I highly doubt an EJ25 has it...but it's possible.

possibly for a rear shaft?

well, it snowed immediately after I mounted the snow tires.....so the car is filthy now. but:

yea, you might notice that the threads on the studs on the water pump pulley aren't cut deep enough (common on el cheapo reman'd units). so you might need washers to keep pressure on the pulley. the cardboard might help, but the fan will still circulate a lot of air through the engine bay, even if not pulling it through the radiator. it might not help the car warm up much faster, but it'll definitely run more efficient (power AND mileage!)

yep, you could. but most of those are attached using one of those zip tie things that pulls through the fins of the radiator, which will induce leaking (go ahead, ask me how I know ).

agreed, 100%. I always just ditched the clutch fan on EA82s. the temp switch on the radiator for the electric fan is set rather high. higher than I like. so I always wired a manual switch for it. never had overheating problems as long as I remembered to turn it on

I've used an air hammer to get them out. one of the rears on my blue lifted EA82 required an oxy/acetylene torch AND an air hammer. not really a trick to it, just chemicals, and brute force. but once you get it moving a bit, it can help to pound it back in and try going out the other side.

huh...thought I posted a reply, but I don't see it. maybe that was a dream anyway, I definitely don't like the steering wheel. might see if a Loyale one would fit, but it might be difficult with the telescoping column. But, you really don't notice it at all while driving, so it's pretty low on the priority list. Loyale 2.7. Thanks for the compliments on the pictures. Although I think awesome Scenery here in Duluth and a brand-new camera had a bigger influence on them than my own photographic ability.

the one on my dad's '94 legacy looks identical to the EA82 ones I've worked with. I know the EJ ones were only available on cars with cable clutches until they redesigned (electric setup) in ~2000

on a '96 impreza EJ22e, with XT6 clutch kit installed:

I beg to differ. as the locking one really induces understeer except after a massive flick and lots of throttle. whereas the VLSD center does encourage the back tires to slide, but allows enough slip so the front tires can still grip to turn. and ESPECIALLY on dry pavement, where the EA setup would have to be totally unlocked....even with really good tires, accelerating out of a corner = one front wheel spinning uncontrollably.

been discussed.....thin metal....not strong enough for any real use.

Some Antique Brass Metallic paint, and a few fumes (too cold to paint outside ): can't wait to put them on before work tomorrow. also photoshopped the "XT6 Full Time 4WD" decal onto the side. not sure why this car doesn't have them....but it will be getting some soon!

yea, pretty much your only option is aftermarket (there were a handful of jdm 5MTs with a factory front LSD....but good luck getting your hands on one!). cheap ones start at 500 or so, good ones cost more like 1500 or more.....

Just had the UltraGrips mounted on the WRX wheels. and bought some bronze paint for them. hopefully will get time to install this weekend. And, took some more pictures: yes, it's got the stock spare tire carrier: yep, High beams AND Fog lights: pretty motor!

all it needs is some real front brakes, and center caps!

my buddy's hatch. it's since gotten a 4" lift and 29" swampers, and is in the process of getting an EJ22. and if you've got the offroad poster, you've seen this one. my favorite water crossing!