Numbchux

um.....would the XT have 25 spline DOJs? cause I know the loyale will have 23s.

well, I think the EA 4EAT is a different length than the EJ one.... did you start with an EA shaft? or an EJ one.

well, think EJ swap, except you won't need an adapter plate, and the radiator will need a new home. also, you'll need to find something to do with that extra engine mount. IMHO, don't bother. same work for similar power as an EJ. but a less reliable motor, that needs more expensive parts, with less aftermarket support.....and heavier. depending on the cost of the donor motor/car, the cost of the swap would be similar. if you're going to hack up the front of the car to put in an H6, it had better be an EG33.

AH, you had an EJ shaft modified to use in your EA car. hmmm.....interesting. AFAIK, the swaps I've heard of used EA shafts modified (I want to say lengthened....) to work with the different trans length. definitely interesting. might also mean that a 6MT would work perfectly with a 5MT EJ shaft in an EA car (have to use the shorter AT shaft in an EJ car....), hmmm, the gears turn.....

problem is, the carrier bearing bracket is a rather substantially different. I don't think the EJ bracket would bolt up to the EA car. I have wondered if you could swap the bracket/bearing. as the flange has a nut on it, and I bet you could press the bracket off once that's removed.

I just posted a picture/video thread of my car at an AutoX this last weekend. but I also wanted to show those of you who are thinking of building up your own EA-series car what they're capable of. The guy who wrote this is an instructor with the Northstar BMW club, which regularly puts on major events at Brainerd International Raceway. He also won the last AutoX I was at in an STi (Windom event, also pics and vids of that in the Rally/Racing section). "So I'll start with my favorite, its Black, its looks like it enjoys playing in the mud, and climbs hills and sounds a lot like Big Foot from the Monster Truck derby. I guess my mentallity when testing out a car is simple, find the most speed while maximizing the most traction. And in the case of Chux's Wagon, let’s just say it was a lot of fun trying to accomplish that goal. First thing you'll notice about this car is its ride height; she sits much higher than most Subaru's I'm familiar with. She's got some nice long legs on her, she's not much to look at, but she's got experience. The old girl really knows how to work the Subaru AWD system, going thru the fast sweeping corners you can literally feel all four just clawing around constantly searching for traction. She didn't complain much diving into the fast chachains, rotated quite well even with the body roll as if she just tiptoed around the tight corners. The understeer is noticeable; but with the right amount of braking you can easily get her to rotate just fine, just have to be a little patient and wait for it. The power from the NA boxer engine felt like a great combination for this setup as the suspension felt soft which I think this car is intended for offroad ventures. So I am surprised how well she did on our little tight course. I felt comfortable using the brake on this car, but than again I don't usually use the brakes very often. LOL Okay I kid, but I think this car was one who had the least issues with wheel hoping while braking when transitioning coming into the fast chachain where there was uneven pavement from two different compounds. Something’s worth mentions, perhaps stiffening the shift with some bushings to help the driver quickly figure out the gears, a little more brake bite would make it even more fun coming into the corners and simple 4 point harness to help keep the driver in place. Overall I think it’s a fun car to drive around no matter where you take it just the way it is. Did I mention I really like rumpping on the throttle, the exhaust nodes is what really reminded me of the Monster Trucks. Many Thanks, -Cheech"

we had a pretty sweet AutoX event here in MN last weekend. about 10 of us rented out a police training course for the day, and went at it. no timing equipment, but there were a few guys who are instructors with the Northstar BMW club. VERY good drivers. I put about 60 miles on my car, just on the track. and a couple of the other guys put on closer to 100. pictures: video....

no plan yet. this is a very long term project, and while it will probably see the street before too long, it'll be awhile before it gets wheeled hard enough to need limiting straps.

generally speaking, a larger front bar than the rear induced understeer....so yea, if there's not one in the rear, removing the front will even things out. it also makes it muuuuuch easier to swing the weight around. removing sway bars is always preferable for low-traction environments (RallyX, ice, etc.).

he's reclocked one notch, with the torsion bar mounted stock. which puts it a bit over 4" (of course, it's an ongoing project, we haven't gotten the front done yet, so that may settle once he starts driving it). these shocks will be about perfect, as they bottom out just as the stock tire touches the stock fender. but there will be some definite limiting straps involved to keep from blowing up axles, as they offer a ton of droop travel! here it is: also, I just realized, that post was made before we actually installed them. they're now in. perfect fit. the bracket that came on the shocks could have been made to work, but a few minutes using a bench vise as a mini-press, we put the subaru upper bracket in the bushing on these shocks, which made them completely bolt-on. also, the Rough Country ones we used came with steel sleeves for the lower mount, which made for a snug fit on the subaru bolt.

only difference between 22t and 22e heads are the holes in the passenger side head for the oil and coolant lines for the turbo. actually, the single-port exhaust, solid-liftered 2.2 heads flow better than the older ones.

I'm not exactly sure what all you're asking, but... look what I found cleverly hidden in the USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84798 has many answers. hi-range is 1:1

^couple corrections. but you got the point. yea, XT6 control arms won't work on EA81s. but also, if you go to 5-lug knuckles, you have to use the axles, which are longer than the EA81 axles. so custom axles would be needed. if you use XT6 knuckles/brakes. parking brake isn't an issue. although, IMHO that'd be pretty dumb. if you're going to the work, do it right and use EJ brakes! AFAIK, the EA81 top hats will work on EJ/XT6 struts. also, 6-lug wheels tend to have less backspacing. which works out better for offroad tires.

EA82s are the same 4-lug pattern as your EA81. 5-lug is a lot of work and money (and headache....rare parts, and custom ones for EA81s) just for wheels. you'd be way better off going 6-lug. either modify the hubs yourself, or have a shop do it (SJR will do it for a pretty reasonable price.....or at least he did the last time I looked). or keep an eye out here for pugs. they're a direct bolt-on in 14 and 15".

well, no real mileage on it, but my dad just put OB suspension on his '94..... from my experiences with EA stuff. the highway miles are harder on the joints than anything. I would still suspect the quality of the joints. I don't trust reman'd CVs, regardless of who made them. my mom's old legacy had a NAPA reman'd fail after about 8k miles at stock angle. not to mention the time I had one break less than 24hours after purchase. look for low mileage cars in the junkyard and pull them, reboot them, and see if that works better for ya. in other news. great to hear from ya! I was just putting the gauge cluster I bought from you 4+ years ago into another car last week, and wondered what you might be up to.

my '92 legacy tophats fit fine on my loyale.... also, with EJ front suspension, you get better brake and suspension options. although you loose the front parking brake (you can convert to the rear. I have a write-up in the USRM about using Nissan rear calipers).

... which, FYI. imprezas didn't get a 2.5 until '98.

yea, and an EJ motor. yea, taking advantage of an EA car is awesome, as long as you have EJ power. a non-turbo EA? compete? hahahaha. a built EA81 could be done, but even then.... a FWD impreza is definitely the ticket.

and those would be? subaru EJ ECUs are very smart and adaptive. ESPECIALLY the OBD II ones. I know a guy who put 8 psi of boost through an otherwise stock OBD II EJ22e. ran awesome, although at 8psi he was maxing out the injectors. so he threw some tleg injectors and a rising rate fpr on there and has been running 10-12. 3 years later, it's still running awesome, just burns a little oil (huh....12 psi on a high-compression motor that already had 200k on it is hard on the rings?)

so....as it turns out....the MAP sensor works fine, as long as it's plugged in yea, went to replace it, and realized the plug was in the right place, but not plugged in all the way. plugged it in, and it stopped throwing that code. now I'm getting 02 sensor heater circuit (still no rear sensor...). AT diagnostic circuit (this one confuses me a bit...as the donor car wasn't even an AT.....so some research is in order). knock sensor 1 circuit and EGR (not sure what the cause of these 2 could be, I'll check wiring first....but I don't really know). also, got gas yesterday. and it got about 3mpg better than my loyale does in similar driving (delivering in town...all under 40 mph....loyale gets 17 and this GL got about 20. the loyale gets 26-27 on the highway...so this car should do quite well). um..not much else to report. fixed the speedo, fixed the radio wiring (PO did a crappy job of putting the stock unit back in), re-wired the oil light so it actually works (there is a light in the dash for the DLs that didn't have a gauge. so I just wired the EJ sender to it, and it works perfectly! I'll probably do this on my car).

I bought a complete '96 EJ22e with harness and ECU from a friend for 300 last winter....

the rear diff doesn't move almost at all.....it's not like a solid axle vehicle.

crank angle sensor. I guarantee the EJ CAS is not programmed the same as the EA one. also.....why? half the advantage to the EJ motors is the superior computer. the EJ series logic module is very intelligent.....and the wiring is not all that difficult. making it work on the EA computer would be a lot of work with zero gains (or less).

35k miles on my "good" 2-piece (came out of my '85 with 140k on it) with my homemade carrier brackets, and the bearing is loose and noisy and both u-joints on the rear half are seized and causing vibration...... yep, I know the front is a slip shaft, so I'm not terribly worried, but I would like to have as much contact as possible, since it'll be getting abused a bit. also, the EA81 shaft is about the same weight as half of the EA82 shaft. and I just dropped it off at a driveline shop to have it modified, and the guy is going to use slightly narrower tubing, and says it should weigh about the same as it does now, even though it's longer. which would be sweet. less rotating mass is always good!

I measured a few different ways. and always got 9 3/8". which is equivalent to 238.125mm.