Numbchux

35k miles on my "good" 2-piece (came out of my '85 with 140k on it) with my homemade carrier brackets, and the bearing is loose and noisy and both u-joints on the rear half are seized and causing vibration...... yep, I know the front is a slip shaft, so I'm not terribly worried, but I would like to have as much contact as possible, since it'll be getting abused a bit. also, the EA81 shaft is about the same weight as half of the EA82 shaft. and I just dropped it off at a driveline shop to have it modified, and the guy is going to use slightly narrower tubing, and says it should weigh about the same as it does now, even though it's longer. which would be sweet. less rotating mass is always good!

I measured a few different ways. and always got 9 3/8". which is equivalent to 238.125mm.

as far as I've been able to tell, the MAP sensor is a backup for the MAF. luckily....I've got an extra one....somewhere. I've put about 150 miles on it in the last few days. still runs great, and reads about 1/2 tank. maybe after work tonight I'll fill it up and see what kind of mileage I've been getting.

nope, he's got an RX with it.

well, I plugged in the code reader yesterday.....and it had 9 codes in there, from a number of different things. I cleared them, and only one came back. P0105, Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit. so, some research is in order to figure out wtf that means... no fuel tank pressure sensor, so no code from the gas cap.

if it's only in the left to right direction.....most likely tie rod end. which is pretty much just replace it to fix it. not something to be greased.

alright....spent the day at the junkyard yesterday. (actually....spent the day driving to/from the yard, only spent about an hour there...but whatever). Got some goodies for my car, but a couple things for this one too. most importantly, I pulled an alternator and wiring pigtail from a '91 legacy. plugged that in, and now it charges wonderfully. So I drove it to work, and delivered in it the whole night (alright....slow night, only put like 40 miles on it). works great, love the power, still got a few gremlins, but she's coming along nicely. although, I quickly notice how spoiled I've been with the way my car handles......one little noodle of a sway bar, stock springs and 185/70r13 tires really takes some adjusting (compared to the XT6 bars, GC coilovers, poly bushings and 215/45r17 performance tires on my loyale)! also, got the plastic engine cover from that same legacy, you know the one, that says subaru 16v MPFI something. nice little factory touch. still needs a different speedometer....that's just a matter of me being lazy. also need a rear 02 sensor, and a muffler (nice sound, but it gets obnoxious in a hurry). I meant to plug in my code reader (OBD II engine, still has diagnostic port) to see what code(s) it's throwing. would be sweet if it's just the rear 02.....but I doubt it. I also need to get out the zip ties and go to town under the dash......now that I know things work, I need to clean it up.....a lot! this is all still with the evap line plugged and the gas cap loose.....so I haven't worked on the vapor separator.

as far as I've been able to tell, they are the same. part number overlap in aftermarket catalogs, this '88 FSM only has one set of pump numbers (even though it covers non-turbo, turbo, and '6 versions). also, the SPFI pump in my loyale ran the EJ22e perfectly until it rusted and started leaking......and the EJ22e needs 36.3. when I bought a new one, I bought one for a turbo car, and it made no difference at all. if the SPFI pump was peaking at 30, I would have had problems.

I've got a 1-piece shaft from an EA81 wagon to put in my EA82 (carrier bearing mount wasn't perfect.....bearing is scaring me....). anyone know the length difference? I'm going to measure it tomorrow....but don't have any terribly accurate measuring tools ($5 tape measure and $2 plastic caliper).....

could be.....EA82 FI (as far as I can tell....no difference between turbo, MPFI N/A, and SPFI) pump operates at 43.4, and 95l/h. the EJ22e uses 80l/h at 36.3psi. but the EJ22t uses 150l/h at 43.4. these numbers are out of an '88 XT FSM and '92 Legacy FSM. look into the ford fuel pumps. I got one for a country squire for this '86 EJ22e wagon, and IIRC it was uber overkill for the N/A motor. and it only cost like $30.

I thought I remember hearing that the EA82 touring wagons were only available in '89 here in the US.

people have destroyed the rear output on them. couple on lifted rigs with a second transfer case, and I've heard of people destroying the FT4WD trannies doing the same thing you are. be careful, that center diff isn't bulletproof, and from the reports I've heard, won't show signs until it's too late that said, I've put many thousands of miles on my RX trans in 2WD. mostly FWD due to driveshaft issues (initially it was the lack of a decent carrier bearing mount, lately it's been due to failing u-joints). EDIT: found the passage I was thinking of: "A month of smokey burnouts, drifting, and overwhelming awesomeness came shattering to a halt, when the gears engaging the rear output shaft shredded themselves. (yes, we did open up the case to see exactly what went wrong) No, danbob is no longer RWD."

I've done that a lot at napa. only time I buy stuff from them is if they have it in stock and nobody else does.

IMHO. do it right, or not at all. I didn't realize PK wasn't making the BYB kits anymore....

yep, been discussed. short version. all high-quality construction. BYB and SJR are definitely standup companies. AA was when I worked with them, but lift kits are not their priority anymore....so....I dunno. BYB is totally bolt-on. easiest and most complete lift kit out there. but, sacrifice some strength to do it. SJR is not entirely bolt-on (although he has a few different kits that require different levels of fabrication). But by far the strongest design. AA splits the difference.....little more complex to install than BYB, but stronger....but not as beefy as the SJR stuff. IMHO, sacrifice the blood, sweat and tears during the install so you don't wind up with severely broken stuff at the worst time down the road. Go SJR.

yep, EJ r160 (the r180 backing plates are different...) rear brakes on an EA....

I don't. but I'll probably have it all apart again to switch to the shorter shocks before too long. and I'll try to get some then.

EA81s all have one-piece shafts. and they work fine. and many people just have the length modified for the EA82 5MT, still one-piece, still just 2 u-joints, works fine. I've heard problems with them in EA82s. but having just had the u-joints in my 2-piece fail anyway, I'm going to switch to a one-piece. keep in mind, if you switch to a 2-piece. you'll have to mount a carrier bearing.

yep. you said my 7.7 @ 90 was barely enough to run drills/grinders. I've got my regulator set at 85psi. and most of the drills/grinders out there only need 4-6 at "full load". I looked when I was shopping. I was pretty much only looking at Quincys, IRs, and Craftsmans. and for the most part, a similar Quincy compressor to the one I got would have been in the $500 range.

I bet your clutch disc isn't lined up with the pilot bearing......it's pretty hard to get. cool trick with the EA82 trannies/clutches: leave the 6 pressure plate bolts just finger tight, this way the clutch disc can move around behind the pressure plate. a little grease on the input shaft so it can slide easily into the disc/pilot bearing. then put them together. then you'll find you can reach those pressure plate bolts one at a time through the starter hole. leave the trans in neutral, and put a 21mm socket/ratchet on the crank bolt, and you can spin the flywheel around and tighten them down one at a time. be sure to tighten them in opposing pattern. that is, always rotate it the same direction. tighten the first, then rotate and skip to the 3rd, then the 2nd, 3rd, 2nd, and finally the 3rd again (that's all 6). Then to be sure, go around once putting final torque on each one individually. when I did the EJ swap a couple weeks ago, we had a heck of a time getting them to line up originally. pulled it back out and did this trick, and it was much easier.

I don't know. but my point is, it's held up awesome for an average home mechanic for 20 years. I'm sure the Quincy ones are stronger/better/whatever. but most people wouldn't use it enough to justify the extra cost. hmmm....3x the durability (overkill for my uses anyway) at almost 5x the cost. I'm no math major, but that don't add up in my book. also happened to be flipping through the northern tool catalog that came today. all the grinders/sanders/drills in a price range that I would even look at are in the 4-6 CFM range. sure, there are some high end ones that use 15+ at load.....but those are almost all the $100+ ingersoll-rand stuff. and turn the page and there are some chicago pneumatic ones that put out similar numbers with 1/3 the consumption. turn the page a couple more times and there are ones with slightly less power for 1/5 the price.... the only point I'm trying to make here is that the extra money for such a beast of a compressor would probably be better used elsewhere in this case.

probably 1.5-2". had to do some grinding on the mount, probably did more than I needed, but better that then not enough. also had to drill a hole (happened to have a 7/8" hole saw handy from my ebrake cable rerouting project) in the sheet metal above it for the end of the shock rod and it's nut to poke through. and still had to use some impact technology (mini maul and air hammer worked well) to force it up there a bit.

FYI, I just happened across the manual for this compressor. date on it is 6/89.

well, guess I'll keep this updated in case someone might be interested at some point. took the girl's Kia on the road trip this last weekend, so I didn't tinker with it before the trip. but at work today I cranked the rear springs up ~3/4". definitely smoother, but I'm still hitting the stops on larger bumps. currently sitting with ~4" of fender gap, with the springs set as low as I dare, and the upper mounts flipped upside-down, and 215/45r17 tires. the ~4" shorter Miata rear shocks will definitely work fine.

just regular Rislone Engine Treatment. I've never seen anything else.