Numbchux

I use this one with my impact and/or air hammer 3-4 days a week. year round (that entryway is not insulated). still works like new. I don't use the die grinder often...so it's not working to capacity. which is exactly what I'm saying, this is plenty to last your average home mechanic a few decades. no, it's not industrial-grade.....but pretty much top of the line consumer-grade. I've got to get a better oiler though....that cheapo POS I put on there just doesn't work.

well, contrary to GDs belief....Craftsman compressors are pretty nice. me and a couple buddies all have them, and they work great. quieter and more reliable than most consumer-grade compressors. here's the one I bought for $150 listed on craigslist about a year ago: nice and quiet. 7.7 CFM @ 90psi...so a little on the small side, but I run my impact wrench, die grinder, and air hammer on it all day. never had to wait for it to pressurize (as long as it doesn't blow the circuit breaker....but that's not the compressors fault). I have it inside the entryway of my house (no garage), and run a long hose out to the driveway, can't even hear it run out there, it's awesome. also easily fits in my wagon and can be lifted by one person, so very portable. probably a little on the weak side for painting.... The guy I bought it from had had it for ~15 years. used it for his wood shop, and the only reason he sold it, is because he bought almost the exact same one, just a little bigger. my dad has a cheap generic one that's loud and weak, you have to give it 30 seconds between lug nuts.....I think he probably paid $150 for it when it was new 15 years ago.

after putting on ~140 miles today at work.....I'm pretty sure the rough ride was because I'm riding on the Miata bump stops (and I cut ~ 1/2" off of them too....). so, I'll crank up the ride height tomorrow to solve that.....and start looking for a pair of the shorter rear shocks.

rears are in. This is a '99 Miata shock, with the ground-control 275 lb/in coilover and EA82 subaru shock mount (modified to fit upside-down to help drop the car a bit...): still rides a bit high. I think I'm going to get my hands on some Miata rear shocks (about 4" shorter), and re-flip the upper mount and crank the spring perch up a bit to drop the car some. took it around the block. these used shocks are definitely not as strong as the virtually new Monroes I took off.....little on the rough side, but not too bad. tomorrow I plan to do the fronts.

I sure will. sending pm now.

I never said ABS in general is a bad idea. ever driven an STi? mmmmmm.......that system works VERY well. but the early systems (I'm not sure about the SVX....that might have gotten a nicer setup) do not. Straight-line stopping is hindered drastically to allow you to turn. so if traffic stops quickly in front of you, you'll still be able to turn.......great, that helps. or coming towards a stop sign with lots of cross-traffic, hit a patch of ice......."great, I get to choose where I'm going die in this intersection, cause stopping isn't an option!" And the newer systems that do work so well, have a dozen sensors, all very specifically calibrated to be mounted in certain places, facing certain directions, and for that car. retrofitting it would be impossible. Oh, I also forgot to mention, when I was driving that '96 OBW in the snow. you could put the 4EAT into 1 or 2, and do pretty well. then as soon as you touched the brakes, the ABS would kick in and tell the tranny to UPshift to 3rd or 4th. this, obviously, wouldn't be an issue with your swap, but is stupid nonetheless.

alright....drove it to work today. good news: the tank was very low, and had no stumbling issues (this car was carbed.....). then I put 12 gallons in it, and drove to work. bad news: when I got there, it proceeded to puke gas out of the vent line (no carbon canister yet...). This is extremely strange, and I don't have any idea where to start with the diagnosing of this problem. all I know, is loosening the gas cap a touch relieved the pressure and got it to stop. any ideas? I looked at some of the diagrams for these vent lines in the Chiltons manual....but that really didn't help :-\ also, the alternator doesn't work.....I'm not sure if it's the wiring, or the unit itself. it's a '99 RS alt, and the first car I found in the junkyard with a matching plug was an '00 Outback (mfr'd 8/00....might have been an '01). I think the LR wire is for the voltage regulator, and needs fused 12v+, and the BY is for the light (not using...). have definite continuity between the stud and the + batt terminal. I'm stumped......

took it for a drive around the block this morning........mmmmmmmmmmm......speedy.

this one doesn't have borlas......my loyale does. the '86 just has stock header and 2 cats right now.

video:

well, my loyale is using gen-1 legacy wiring, which comes through the inner fender quite nicely. but the impreza wiring plugs in on the passenger side of the bellhousing. a 2.5" hole fits the existing rubber boot around the harness. so it's nicely sealed and looks very factory (well....it will once I get the wires wrapped with some loom and tape). I'll take some closeup pics tomorrow. I asked about this like 8 months ago, and I believe it was kingbobdole who suggested the hole saw idea, as that's what he did on his RX. so don't give me the credit. video is uploading....

it runs when I hooked up the harness, I hooked my switched power to the neutral switch on the ECU.....redid that, and the relays clicked on, then splice in the fuel pump wire, turned the key, and it fired right up (PCV and IAC weren't hooked up, so massive post-MAF intake leaks, so it didn't run well, or for long....but it ran). video to come. finished the radiator hoses, filled the radiator, put the exhaust on and wired in the front 02 sensor (will need a different plug for the rear.....might have something around but I didn't see anything). I'll also need to get an alternator plug, as the alternator I got with the motor doesn't match...might be off an RS. but, moved it around under it's own power. the speedometer started to freak out just from rolling around the driveway, so my "working" cluster might not be so working......crap.

I don't think there is much difference, if any. I have '85 PT4WD EA82 linkage on my '88 FT4WD D/R box. only thing is the hi/lo range rod is too short. but the rest works fine.

this is the second that I've done myself. but I've done wiring harnesses for 3 others. my first (my loyale) took me about 2 weeks, mechanically. but because of the wiring, was about 3 months before it ran. it also helps that this car has been about 10 months in the planning/parts acquiring phase. but it's been running/drivable almost that entire time.

well.....not quite done yet, but really close. the goal was running on each motor within ~10 hours. got the engine in, fuel pump swapped out, flywheel modified, hole drilled in the firewall, new radiator in, and a bunch of other little stuff, in about 9. at which point, I plugged in the EJ harness/ECU, and got no life from the relays. at which point, I didn't feel like diagnosing any further today, so I tinkered on a few other things and called it quits. but, some pictures. The harness. This is from a '96 Impreza L (the stuff that came out of the Grimmspeed project L car, for those of you on other forums.....I did the wiring on that swap.) all the wires that needed to be spliced into the EA harness had a plug between them and the ECU. so I did all that earlier this week: and put in a working gauge cluster (also happens to be from an SPFI EA82, so the redline is in the right place)... took this at about 10am today: The car was running only moments earlier. about an hour later: laid an EJ flexplate on the EA flywheel, and shot a little quick-dry primer through it to mark where the holes needed to be modified: and went to town. took me about 45 minutes to modify those holes enough that it would bolt onto the EJ22. mrose adapter plate and XT6 clutch kit bolted to the EJ22: 2.5" hole saw through the firewall for the wiring: while I had the back of the car up to do the fuel pump, I thought I'd take a picture of the freshly sandblasted/painted backing plates on the rear disc swap: Took this picture at about 5pm..... then I hooked up the intake/MAF, the fuel lines, vacuum lines, starter and battery. then I plugged in the ECU..... then I did the heater core lines, radiator, etc. tomorrow.....it runs.....hopefully. I'm betting it's something silly like a bad ground somewhere or something. but we'll see.

which side of the car is the steering wheel on in nairobi of course....even then, I believe the tts use a different engine crossmember. and the EJ crossmember will not easily fit in an EA. short answer. yes. it can be done. but you'll be looking at extra $$$ and fabrication.

my solution was a pop rivot.....but it's pretty low on the priority list....

my '92 loyale didn't..... pretty good list though. totally doable.

my loyale was a 3AT FWD, and is now FT4WD D/R 5MT. before I touch the 4wd stuff. is your car 4wd? or not...I'm assuming it is. if it is, you'll be looking at zero fabrication, entirely bolt-in. I did the pedal box with the steering column in, just unbolted from the dash and let it drop, then slid the pedal box over it and reconnected. again, bolt-in. linkage won't need any fabrication. I've got a little issue with mine being a bit too far back, but I think that has more to do with the PT4WD linkage on the FT4WD trans. the stud where the back of the linkage bolts to the driveshaft tunnel is even there. if it's 4wd, the carrier bearing mounts are in the right place. just swap on the new front driveshaft half, and you're set. the gauge cluster is a tricky one. as the center section (with all the indicator lights) is wired completely differently. while one of the plugs is identical, it's pinned differently. go ahead, plug a MT cluster into an AT car.....all kinds of crazy lights will come on I left the AT one there....but hope to switch to an RX one soon. but mechanically identical, will fit right in. also, make sure it's in Park before you pull the battery, or you won't be able to get your key out! (well, it can be fooled....ask me how I know........but I don't know if I could do it again).

I think this is relatively normal for a light car without ABS. my car RS brakes and pretty good tires still locks up the fronts when really hard on it. heck, at an autocross a few weeks ago, I locked up all 4 at about 55mph coming into a tight corner (see avatar...) but the pedal pressure giving out is not normal.....

alright, update. my birthday present to myself came today I called Ground-Control directly, and they were nice enough to give me the subaru impreza front coilovers (on the left) and NB miata rears (right). turns out this was unnecessary. as, when using the miata shocks on the subaru, you use the subaru upper mount/spring perch. the ground control upper perches don't get used. with that in mind, the only difference between the subaru kit and the miata kit is this: little ring pressed into the sleeve. this doesn't fit very snug anyway, so could easily be done without. here's the sleeve/spring on the miata shock: notice how the top of the spring sits right where the upper perch would be. this is the lowest setting they recommend using. I went with 250 lb/in front springs and 275 lb/in for the rear. I also opted for 8" long springs in the front and 7" in the rear (that's what they recommended....we'll see how the ride height works out when I put it all together). SO, these will be installed on my car next week. EDIT: just noticed a typo. the rear springs are 275, not 200.

here's what I'm talking about with that upper bracket: those 2 lines represent the angle of the wheel wheel. and you can see where that washer piece hits when flipped upside-down. now, a few minutes on a bench grinder, and that'd probably be solved......but I don't see how you could have done it accidentally.

it really is the cat's meow isn't it!

doh. same thread title....but I guess the link is different: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1564963

^haha, w00t. they're pretty much the run-of-the mill wrxs and such. some have engine swaps, pretty paint jobs.....whatever :-p