Numbchux

EJ front struts can be used in XT6s......so I would assume the reverse would be true. front axles, hubs, bearings, knuckles and brakes all have to come from the same car. but if you wanted to, you could use XT6 stuff on the imp. EJ trannies are a different length (shorter?) than EA ones. and the center carrier bracket is very different from one car to the other. so you'd have to use the imp's driveshaft, and it would have to be modified. but the slip yoke and flange at the driveshaft are the same..... like gary said.....the rear is an enormous project, with zero advantages (inferior parts to pretty readily available EJ stuff). Just run up to UPull, and get a rear disc setup off of one of the dozens of early Legacies....

+1 pretty sure that's the only way to do it.

the large gauge white wire goes to the battery. the yellow one gets a switched, fused 12v from elsewhere in the harness (this is for the voltage regulator, one of the wires going to the EA alt fits the bill just fine.), and the black one gets grounded if/when the yellow one has power and the alt is not charging (i.e. ign on and engine not running, engine running but broken belt, or failed alt....this wire is optional, I don't have it hooked up in mine.).

yep, look on the bottom of the page. there should be a reference to which plug is which (the letter), and where the pins are on the plug (number). also, the Chiltons manual is pretty much a photocopy of the FSM....but here's the real FSM diagrams (for a '92 legacy) for ya: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/92%20Legacy%20Engine%20Wiring.pdf and a clearer version of the pinout that's in my write-up: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf

not really any question now. but my buddy drove his '86 EA82 (carbed, now sitting in my driveway waiting on an EJ22) over to my house with the passenger side cam seized and belt broken.......yea, they don't need all 4.

could be. it'll be getting a drastic overhaul anyway...I'd need the front ring and pinion though too. I'm not sure it'd be worth paying for shipping. but if MilesFox could bring the whole thing over, it might be worth playing with.

^AFAIK if the crank angle sensor wasn't working, it wouldn't get spark either. but, I am curious as to the history of this motor. was it out of a donor car? running before pulled?

suberdave put HIDs in his wagon. search for his post.....lots of information. the problem with EA82 headlights is the lense. the diffuser wastes a ton of light. so regardless of what bulb you put in there, most of the light will be wasted. ALSO, HIDs really need to be behind clear lenses. and obviously EA82 subaru lenses are far from clear. prepare to blind everyone else on the road I've been thinking about what it would take to make a clear lense for them (I would LOVE to have HIDs with angel eyes).....but have come up empty-handed

crap. I was down there last weekend. if you have some free time, and want to head north and check out beautiful Duluth.....let me know. otherwise, if you're still around on Friday, you could stop in at the weekly MNSubaru hangout in St Paul on University Ave. map thread I won't be there, but you're sure to see some pretty high-hp subies (look for the white STi with the turbo in the bumper...)

I'd be interested in the center diff and it's housing, and what's left of the driven shaft. I'd like to piece together a hybrid trans, and that's pretty much all I need from the RX trans. I've got a line on a good one locally, but it'd be a shame to cannibalize a good trans just for a few parts.

yea...no pictures of any corvettes this was kind of a last minute event. I wish I would have known about it earlier, or I would have posted here.....we weren't too far from you Iowa folks. there were about 6 of us there in subarus, and 3 friends of mine in Mustangs (and one other stang owned by a guy I'd never met before). brought my wagon, got laughed at at the entrance gate, then proceeded to put down faster times than most of the vettes. so phooey on them!! top 3 official times were put down by one of my friends in his '05 STi, an '07 R32, and some integra that looked like crap and sounded worse.....but in some free lapping afterward, the top 4 times were all subarus. video of my third run: my pictures I was having trouble getting my camera to focus, so I got a ton of pictures that looked like crap. but this one was worth posting. I believe this was just moments before Musashi (guy who won) swapped ends for the third time in the same run :laugh: and all the guys from the MNSubaru club. I'm the one with the big hair, and Musashi is holding his 1st place hardware! more pictures as the other guys post them.

not a whole car to replace your loyale. but a whole car to donate the motor. please read the write-up. it took me 6 months to compile it, and I'm putting more time into it now to keep it up-to-date. it will answer most of your questions. you need a lot more parts than just the motor. and if you get a complete car you'll know you have everything you need, and you'll be able to hear the engine run before you mess with it. AND, first gen ('90-'94) Legacies in perfect shape for donating a motor typically sell for only a few hundred dollars anyway (look for ones with damage, rust, blown transmission, etc.). And those motors are good for many many hundreds of thousands of miles (mine's got almost 270k on it now, with only very basic maintenence on it).

it's alright. when the code reader said the misfire was on cyl. 2, I had to crack open the Haynes manual to figure out which one that was. 1 & 4 I can remember, but not 2 & 3.

do you have a full FSM for the legacy? that has all the info about testing the sensors. I'd start by checking the power. the #2 and #4 injectors share the same power source. I'm pretty sure that's the only common thing between the 2.

look around. that's a pretty crappy price, even if it were to include everything you needed (which it doesn't). also, look around the forum. stickied at the top of this section, as well as in the repair manual (USRM link at the top of the page), and on my website @ http://www.numbchuxconversions.com there's a very large write-up with everything you need to consider.

#2 and 1 share the same coil. 2 and 4 are on different coils. but none the less, the NGK was definitely in the worst condition, and was still running better than the champion. #2 was definitely in the worst condition of the champions though. I didn't look at the old plugs. but I'll take a peek (they're in the boxes waiting to be thrown out...) and see if I can tell. it sure looked like the NGK had 130k miles on it....definitely could have been factory (yikes!). so I was thinking one of those 2 scenarios, probably the former.

did a compression test and new plugs today. compression checked out at 190psi (+/- 5) on all 4 on a cold motor, so not a burned valve. it had champion plugs in $1,2 & 3. and a nasty NGK in #4. seems to be fixed.....

today I swapped #2 and #4 plug wires. and pumped some SeaFoam through it. with zero change. I bought some new NGK plugs, and have another coil and igniter (although I'm hesitant to suspect either, as I bet the wasted spark design would cause a misfire on #4 as well) to try tomorrow. I will also try to get my hands on a compression tester while I'm in there (god I hope it's not a burnt valve ).

as mentioned before, your car is a long way from being much....but not without potential. a little work on the stock motor (as mentioned, head job and delta cams) would give it a bit more grunt, and some rear disc brakes would make it hella fun to drive. But to make it anything other than a slow car that's extremely fun to take to the limit on a regular basis, you'll be in for some major investment. and not just money, hundreds and hundreds of hours. Here's my '92 Loyale, essentially as it sits now (different suspension = taller stance.....but you get the idea): (click the pic for write-up, more pictures, and a video) able to hang with a stock '05 Mustang GT in a straight line 0-70. turn circles around that 'stang in the twisties. put down competitive ice racing times. haul 8' lumber. And get close to 30mpg doing it. But I've been researching, modifying, tinkering, and upgrading old subarus for the better part of 5 years (and I'm a rank amateur by comparison to many members here). And doing it any other way would be a waste of time and money (which is why you don't see a list of what you "should" do here....). As for an online source.....this is it. find fellow USMB members with the parts, and who are willing to part with them (I'm still debating....).

they certainly are, don't even need to remove the cover. they're just threaded in. you'll probably need to get your hands on a stud extracter, although the jam nut trick might work.

unknown history on both. but, being DOHC, replacing them isn't a small job....so I wanted to be sure. And, my EJ22e had some pretty nasty plugs and wires on it, and I noticed exactly zero difference when switching from fouled autolites to NGKs....

'96 Legacy Outback Wagon, 4EAT, DOHC EJ25D, 126k miles. mysterious rough-running, stumbling, etc. only while under load (not necessarily driving, but never does it in park or neutral). noticeably aggravated by the A/C compressor (symptoms come and go as the compressor cycles on and off), although sometimes the symptoms appear independent of the A/C. occasionally the CEL will flash for a minute (indicating misfire....), plug in the code reader, and it's always cyl. 2. quick visual inspection of the engine bay doesn't reveal any noticeable problems. Thoughts?!

oh man.....I have to take all that interior trim out of the back?

I've got a few rust spots peeking out from under the trim under the rear side windows on my loyale (it used to be a Florida car.....rusting from the top down...). I want to get behind there to take care of it (hoping it's not found it's way behind the window molding!), but I'm not sure how this trim comes off.......I really don't want to just start yanking on it

yep, the huckster...... add an external tranny cooler to that trans, and it'll hold up muuuuuuch longer.