Numbchux

my '92 loyale didn't..... pretty good list though. totally doable.

my loyale was a 3AT FWD, and is now FT4WD D/R 5MT. before I touch the 4wd stuff. is your car 4wd? or not...I'm assuming it is. if it is, you'll be looking at zero fabrication, entirely bolt-in. I did the pedal box with the steering column in, just unbolted from the dash and let it drop, then slid the pedal box over it and reconnected. again, bolt-in. linkage won't need any fabrication. I've got a little issue with mine being a bit too far back, but I think that has more to do with the PT4WD linkage on the FT4WD trans. the stud where the back of the linkage bolts to the driveshaft tunnel is even there. if it's 4wd, the carrier bearing mounts are in the right place. just swap on the new front driveshaft half, and you're set. the gauge cluster is a tricky one. as the center section (with all the indicator lights) is wired completely differently. while one of the plugs is identical, it's pinned differently. go ahead, plug a MT cluster into an AT car.....all kinds of crazy lights will come on I left the AT one there....but hope to switch to an RX one soon. but mechanically identical, will fit right in. also, make sure it's in Park before you pull the battery, or you won't be able to get your key out! (well, it can be fooled....ask me how I know........but I don't know if I could do it again).

I think this is relatively normal for a light car without ABS. my car RS brakes and pretty good tires still locks up the fronts when really hard on it. heck, at an autocross a few weeks ago, I locked up all 4 at about 55mph coming into a tight corner (see avatar...) but the pedal pressure giving out is not normal.....

alright, update. my birthday present to myself came today I called Ground-Control directly, and they were nice enough to give me the subaru impreza front coilovers (on the left) and NB miata rears (right). turns out this was unnecessary. as, when using the miata shocks on the subaru, you use the subaru upper mount/spring perch. the ground control upper perches don't get used. with that in mind, the only difference between the subaru kit and the miata kit is this: little ring pressed into the sleeve. this doesn't fit very snug anyway, so could easily be done without. here's the sleeve/spring on the miata shock: notice how the top of the spring sits right where the upper perch would be. this is the lowest setting they recommend using. I went with 250 lb/in front springs and 275 lb/in for the rear. I also opted for 8" long springs in the front and 7" in the rear (that's what they recommended....we'll see how the ride height works out when I put it all together). SO, these will be installed on my car next week. EDIT: just noticed a typo. the rear springs are 275, not 200.

here's what I'm talking about with that upper bracket: those 2 lines represent the angle of the wheel wheel. and you can see where that washer piece hits when flipped upside-down. now, a few minutes on a bench grinder, and that'd probably be solved......but I don't see how you could have done it accidentally.

it really is the cat's meow isn't it!

doh. same thread title....but I guess the link is different: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1564963

^haha, w00t. they're pretty much the run-of-the mill wrxs and such. some have engine swaps, pretty paint jobs.....whatever :-p

well, I'm in round 2. I don't think I have a prayer for round 3.....but vote for me anyway same link

^ custom yo just thought I'd mention I switched from EA82 to EA81 rod ends a few weeks ago. the EA82 ones were pressed into the knuckle, but further in than they were supposed to, which caused extremely premature failure (not actually breaking, but they were sloppy....and only ~8 months old). the EA81s fit perfectly in the knuckles, and leave a LOT of room for toe-in. I'm almost concerned about there being enough threads in there. But I think it'll be fine.....

yep, I currently run header, cat-pipe, and mid-pipe for the EJ car, and no axle back (no muffler). for this '86 wagon I'm swapping this weekend, I will be having an exhaust shop cut the EJ mid-pipe short, and fabbing a section up to put the EJ muffler in the stock EA location. should work well. and have a nice '01 RS tip

Doesn't throw a code for the neutral switch.....but the light is almost always on (TPS and IAC....). I say put that pretty low on your priority list.

just hook the EJ temp sender to the EA gauge. it'll read low on the gauge, but will be reliable. done and done. that sounds right for the VSS....but I don't know the details of the EA81 wiring. But the VSS should be a pulse to ground. I don't have the neutral switch for the ECU hooked up. no problems. in fact, I don't have any of the wiring for the trans hooked up (one of these days I'll hook up the back-up lights though).

pretty sure the rear EJ lines have banjo bolts like the front. so I don't think they'd work on EA subies.

I don't know where the flipping the upper brackets thing came from. but I've tried it, and the brackets did not fit upside-down.... also, the XT struts for the front give a lot of drop. I wouldn't go that low!! holy tire rub city! yes, your GL springs will fit the XT struts. if RallyX performance is what you're after. stock GR2s and RX front springs are the way to go. end of discussion. also look for some 12" long, 2.5" Diameter 250 lb/in Ground Control springs on Ebay. they fit perfect on the stock rear shocks, and yield some wonderful handling!

haha, the sensors don't work anymore. haven't on any of my EA82s.....

it could work. but it'll read cooler in the radiator than it should in the motor. and if you loose circulation through the radiator, or loose coolant, it'll be thrown off as well. you really should have it hooked up on the block.

Drove up to Ely, MN for my Birthday this weekend.....and this happened: AND, that dash said 165k on it when I did the swap, and my donor car had 235k on it when I pulled the engine. That's right 270k miles on this engine

I drove around without my hood on one day. my engine doesn't move very much. even got a video....I'll see if I can find the link for it.

most early ABS systems are so focused on allowing you to turn, that they drastically sacrifice straight-line stopping. only newer (STi and '06+ for subarus) systems take into account steering angle, weight transfer, etc. to be truly effective. These sensors would be even harder to make work right, and without them, the system is useless. for example, this winter, about an inch of snow on the ground. I had to borrow my girlfriend's '96 Outback for work. the ABS was pissing me off, so I did a little test. little un-tracked stretch of road, see how fast the car stopped from 15mph with ABS, then I un-plugged one of the wheel sensors (disabling the system), and tried it again. making no effort to keep the wheels spinning, just locking them up, and stopped in a fraction of the distance. All that being said. if you're going 5-lug, I think it would be possible to retrofit the crappy old ABS system into them. use EJ front stuff, easy. and take a look at the XT6 rears. I'm pretty sure the XT6s were intended to have ABS at some point, or in some market. the 5 extra holes in the hub are almost exactly the same as how the front tone rings are attached to 1st gen legacy hubs. and there's a set of holes in the backing plate that would be perfect for a sensor. both visible in this picture:

I haven't had a pitch stopper since my swap......overkill IMHO.

+1 well except I'm about to roll over 35k on mine

not using 4 bolt holes isn't an extra step. in fact, it's one less step :-p. the hydraulic clutch (much more common on '98+ setups) will be a much larger hurtle. of course, still one that would be required for the 6-speed. forgot to comment on the tach thing. an XT6 tach will read just fine with an EG33. EA82s have a distributer, and their tach reads an EJ22 perfectly. the signal wire gets grounded every time a cylinder fires. which means that any 4-cyl tach will read 1/3 higher on a 6-cyl. And, the XT dash is substantially different than a GL. so I don't think an XT6 cluster would look stock at all. you might be able to pull the clusters apart and swap just the one gauge, but I doubt it. probably going to have to get an aftermarket tach and mount it as cleanly as possible (maybe a small digital one?). separating the SPFI stuff from your old harness is possible, but will be difficult without damaging everything else. you'd be better off finding another donor for an SPFI conversion. and no, the carbed stuff won't work either. there were some major fundamental wiring changes from the '85-'86 cars to the '88+ ('87 was some of each....).

yea, sorry. that wasn't very clear. scotty's cocktail is better than rislone, so if it isn't perfect with rislone, switch. but if it's still pretty bad, don't bother. I thought there were some S/R FT4WD GLs. the XT6s with that drivetrain have 3.9:1 diffs though.

sounds like a cool setup. but at that point, my recommendation is to scrap the subaru engine/trans. it's going to add a level of complexity (and cost!) to it that IMHO isn't worth it unless you're dead set on keeping it all subaru (which, obviously, you're not). if you're running 34" tires, and 250 hp n/a. I wouldn't even consider a 5-speed. of course, the 6-speeds are the size of an EJ 4EAT, which, as documented by GLoyale (I think), don't fit in EA tranny tunnels in the stock location. so if you do that, you won't be able to push it back at all. a real RWD trans would fit better in the tunnel, and hold up better (AWD trannies aren't really designed to just use the rear output). And if you're not using a subaru trans, why bother with the subaru motor. I'd start looking into Chevy 4.3 V6s. that'd give you the power you seek, easy tranny/tcase options, and small/light enough to still work well in the subaru.