Numbchux

i would bet these 2 are related. IIRC they have the same power source, when I had the dash apart in my '85, I crushed one of the little backlights for the HVAC system, which shorted, blew the fuse, which took out everything. also, I'd highly recommend the Rislone tranny treatment before the cocktail. seems to clean things out really nicely. in fact, I'm thinking about going back to Rislone, I'm just hesitant to drain $40 worth of tranny fluid for an experiment

finally.....life's been hectic lately. I really need to pull those off and put some washers on there, as the nuts are trying to pull through the bracket......but it's worked well, and been like that for close to 30k miles.

yes sir. you'll need the belts themselves, as well as the buckles (they are different!). and you'll probably want the trim. the trim doesn't fit perfectly, but it's pretty close. the top of the B-pillar is slightly different, so you'll have to get a little creative with things to make it all work, but it's very do-able. I actually just finished putting mine all together a couple days ago. the most noticeable difference, is the headliner. the loyale liner is spaced out away from the car to make room for the rail for the belt. so when you go to put in the trim from a GL, the headliner won't reach. EDIT: yaay!!! picture!!!! oh yea, good call on the center console. I don't have one yet, so I haven't dealt with that. you'll either have to modify the console/bracket, leave the lap-belts in there, or swap out the whole thing for a console/bracket from a manual belted car (which won't be high-rise and awesome).

the legacy has a center differential. the brat does not. do not use non-differentiated 4WD one dry pavement.

the holes are not far enough apart to drill a new pattern between them I don't know what number bit, but it was the smaller (~1/4" diameter) grind stone. I think I used up a couple of them.....but I've been running it for almost 35k miles with zero problems.

some info that might help with the new-gen stuff: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1184807

beefaru had issues with running a one-piece in his wagon on some serious high-mileage stuff....but I might try it here before too long. I should have it up off the ground to do a wheel bearing here in a couple days, so I'll try to get a picture of the bracket I made.

that's what I'm running. Loyale shifter/knob with '85 hi/low shifter on my RX trans. he pretty much got it. as for the wiring side. 2 wires to each solenoid, one gets grounded, and the other is switched power. when the power wire is turned on, the solenoid opens and let's the vacuum through to the diaphragm on the trans.

I'm not exactly sure if I'm understanding you completely, but I'll say this. the tranny cases are NOT the same. the bearings that the input shaft ride on are substantially larger. AND there's a "hole" (a little more than just a hole.....but you get the picture) for the low range shift linkage. while it is possible to assemble an EJ D/R trans, really the only reason to do it is to swap in EA parts (low range gears....locking center diff). if you're content with EJ ratios and an EJ LSD center diff, just buy the whole trans from overseas and be done with it. also, even a heavily modified gearbox isn't going to get you much of a gearing advantage. if you really NEED low range. nothing made by subaru is going to help you.

not all FWD impreza 5MTs are 23. late '94 and '95 ones had 25. FWD legacies all had 25, FWD AT imps all had 25 too.

the EA82-length springs compressed to fit on NB Miata front shocks made the rear of my wagon sit about 4" higher than stock, and would not compress.....zero travel at all. So I bought a pair of Monroe shocks for the EA82 to run until I can get my hands on shorter springs (I'm going to skip right to the Ground Control setup.....when I can afford it. and then I'll continue to experiment to see what shock will work best).

other way around

if the legacy in question has female splines on the rear axles, than yes. I believe all 1st gen legacies do. but most EJ cars have male splines on the DOJs that slip into the diff, and no stubs at all.....which obviously wouldn't work.

highway miles are as hard on axles as anything (if not worse...). on my AA high clearance lift (4" at the struts, 3" on the drivetrain) I did ok, but as soon as I cranked up my front struts (had adjustables from my '85), I'd start killing front axles. probably 60% of the front CVs that failed on my cars, failed on the street.....usually on the freeway.

Napa timing belt part #25-050275 from here: http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75177

I would not go any higher without doing a body lift too. the adjustables already put your axles pretty much at the max...... I ran 215/75r15s on my 4" lifted '88 and only had a little rubbing while beating on it, with very little trimming. and 235/75r15s on a 3" lifted '88 with a bunch of rubbing and a lot of trimming..... you're probably already at ~2".

no, struts were not on that list. interchanging them is very possible......not a direct bolt-on, but doable.

EJ front struts can be used in XT6s......so I would assume the reverse would be true. front axles, hubs, bearings, knuckles and brakes all have to come from the same car. but if you wanted to, you could use XT6 stuff on the imp. EJ trannies are a different length (shorter?) than EA ones. and the center carrier bracket is very different from one car to the other. so you'd have to use the imp's driveshaft, and it would have to be modified. but the slip yoke and flange at the driveshaft are the same..... like gary said.....the rear is an enormous project, with zero advantages (inferior parts to pretty readily available EJ stuff). Just run up to UPull, and get a rear disc setup off of one of the dozens of early Legacies....

+1 pretty sure that's the only way to do it.

the large gauge white wire goes to the battery. the yellow one gets a switched, fused 12v from elsewhere in the harness (this is for the voltage regulator, one of the wires going to the EA alt fits the bill just fine.), and the black one gets grounded if/when the yellow one has power and the alt is not charging (i.e. ign on and engine not running, engine running but broken belt, or failed alt....this wire is optional, I don't have it hooked up in mine.).

yep, look on the bottom of the page. there should be a reference to which plug is which (the letter), and where the pins are on the plug (number). also, the Chiltons manual is pretty much a photocopy of the FSM....but here's the real FSM diagrams (for a '92 legacy) for ya: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/92%20Legacy%20Engine%20Wiring.pdf and a clearer version of the pinout that's in my write-up: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf

not really any question now. but my buddy drove his '86 EA82 (carbed, now sitting in my driveway waiting on an EJ22) over to my house with the passenger side cam seized and belt broken.......yea, they don't need all 4.

could be. it'll be getting a drastic overhaul anyway...I'd need the front ring and pinion though too. I'm not sure it'd be worth paying for shipping. but if MilesFox could bring the whole thing over, it might be worth playing with.

^AFAIK if the crank angle sensor wasn't working, it wouldn't get spark either. but, I am curious as to the history of this motor. was it out of a donor car? running before pulled?

suberdave put HIDs in his wagon. search for his post.....lots of information. the problem with EA82 headlights is the lense. the diffuser wastes a ton of light. so regardless of what bulb you put in there, most of the light will be wasted. ALSO, HIDs really need to be behind clear lenses. and obviously EA82 subaru lenses are far from clear. prepare to blind everyone else on the road I've been thinking about what it would take to make a clear lense for them (I would LOVE to have HIDs with angel eyes).....but have come up empty-handed