Numbchux

yea, not even similar. the spindle (part that the hub and bearings ride on) is part of the axle on the front, and a separate piece in the rear.

only reason to run an EJ D/R trans is for the EJ clutch or if you'd rather just drop the big bucks on a complete trans and not crack it open. or, take an EA D/R box, use a FT4WD output shaft, EJ 4.111 ring/pinion, EJ center diff, adapter plate, EA82 flywheel, XT6 clutch kit, and you'd be set. exactly what you're looking for, and using all USDM parts.

yea, what are you asking? a FWD car doesn't have rear axles.....

lol. no. little different. depending on what kind of WRX (early jdm setup like suberdave is using, or something newer) you're talking about, there are a few things that need to be considered. things like the rear diff, hydraulic clutch, radiator, intercooler, fuel pump controller, wiring. nothing that couldn't be overcome, but that will be a bit more difficult than your average EJ swap.

when they refer to the OHV engines, they're referring to the EA81s which have pushrods and one cam. the EA82s are OHC, having one cam in each head. with the exception of some interior bits and the carb setup, the parts are the same as later GLs and Loyales. and here in the US, the EA81s stopped in '88, so if you get parts for a '92 loyale, you won't have that overlap.......might help narrow it down.

meh, mediocre advice. depends where in the country he's at. on the west coast.....just go buy one with a 5-speed. in the midwest, yea, do the swap. also, it isn't the axle ratio that is the problem with the 3ATs, it's the gears themselves. 3rd gear is sooooo low.

you can replace the water pump without pulling the tbelt, but it's a pain. and you have to remove the tbelt covers. so yea, do it now. don't bother inspecting the idler and tensioners. just replace them. I've been left on the road many times by broken timing belts, and only once was it just because the belt broke..... and yea, you can do cam and crank seals. meh, I usually didn't. that's not very high on the list of things that start to get leaky on EA82s. definitely inspect and reseal (and get the seals from the dealer. it's only a few bucks for them) the oil pump. the cam case o-rings would be a pretty good idea, but will involve quite a bit more work. and pretty much just help prevent lifter tick. and if you're going in to do that, get new valve cover gaskets (the gasket itself as well as the seals on the bolts). in my opinion, don't bother unless you're already tearing stuff apart to do head gaskets or something.

there isn't any wiring......one wire to engage the clutch. might have to splice on a different connector..... I'm sure it would work fine with some custom lines to go from the EJ compressor to the EA system, but the lines themselves are quite different between the 2.

you heard wrong. the carb'ed setup (ESPECIALLY a factory one) will have about 8x more vacuum lines and BS that doesn't work right. I totally respect your decision, but I want to make sure you've got accurate information, which it really doesn't sound like you do. The EA82 carburetor is an insanely complex unit and would be a significant down grade. I've had a couple EA82s where the only vacuum lines in the engine bay were PCV and IAC (idle air control). if it's vacuum lines that you want to avoid, don't bother looking for a factory carb but you will need the carb'ed intake manifold (the mount where the carb is level, whereas the throttle body on an SPFI one is at an angle). you'll need the distributer (vacuum advance). Then you'll need an adapter plate and a weber carb. and lots of patience to tune it. you'll also probably need to do some re-wiring. I forget how the carbed setup gets the Tach signal, but the SPFI gets it straight from the ECU, which obviously won't be doing anything anymore. I'm swapping a carbed EA82 or an EJ22 here in the next couple weeks. at which point anything and everything will be available.

yep, stealership for ya. i just pulled out my parts quick reference guide. it lists 21200AA120, but when I look that up, it says it's been superceded by 21200AA121. List price is 14.95. subaruparts.com has it for 11.39, and 1stsubaruparts.com has it for 10.76. and the housing gasket is 11072AA030. list: 1.80, subaru parts: 1.37, 1stsubaru parts: 1.30. I usually print out the shopping cart from either site with everything I need, and the local dealer will usually give me the list price for stuff. usually the cheapest and easiest option (no, they won't automatically give you the list price for things, there are a number of ways that they use to price things, and there's always some flexibility).

my donor car was an auto as well.

they're a great tire as far as all-terrains are concerned. they do cake with mud quite easily.......but they do great on the rocks.

I don't know. throwing any codes? the VSS wire from the EJ ECU is pin 11 on B58 (smallest plug). the EA82 VSS is in the gauge cluster (show as the reed switch on the diagrams). I'm not sure if the '85-'86 clusters had them, but I do know that if nothing else, the newer clusters are 100% interchangeable (I had an '88 cluster in my old '85). I have the occasional stumbling on my swap, it's been pretty bad the last couple months. I was pretty sure it was the TPS since it seemed to only be a problem at partial throttle, the car runs fine a closed or WOT. I replace the TPS, and the problem went away for the night, but was back again the next day. I just did new plugs and wires a few days ago, and haven't noticed the problem yet (knock on wood). oh, and I ran the car for a year without the VSS hooked up. and noticed zero difference when I connected it last fall, except it stopped throwing the code.

hatches and brats. yep. it's quite simple. only hard part is defining the difference between a coupe and a hatch.

I did something a lot like this with my blue wagon. except I didn't need to lengthen it. I just added a second bushing on the front side of the bracket, and cut the inner bushings at an angle so that the rod could sit at an angle. I then removed the 3 blocks between the bracket and framerail, and put one between the bracket and tranny crossmember so the driveline was still dropped, but the leading rod bracket was still tight against the framerail. unfortunately, I sold the car before really wheeling it hard after that (went once, but the water pump was failing, so it spent most of the trip parked while I rode with someone else). it seemed like a pretty tough setup though.

technically......the rears are not the exact same. the '86 will have dual DOJ rear axles, and the loyale will have outer CVs. they're interchangeable, but not identical....... and yea, wagons, coupes and sedans were all EA82s starting in '85.

here's the page I send out with my harnesses Harness info.doc

you're probably right, but not using the EA82 computer. the signal for the sensors is calibrated completely differently. you could probably do it with a standalone system. in which case, why bother? if you're wiring in a standalone (IIRC megasquirt doesn't read the EJ crank and cam sensor signals accurately, so you're looking at something quite a bit more expensive), wouldn't be too hard to use the stock EJ wasted-spark coil/ignitor. or all 4 injectors, instead of just one, that's just 3 more wires and a different calibration. also, I've never heard of an SPFI EJ motor.

that sounds about right. the last EJ swap I bought cost the same, and was out of a '96 impreza lx. truth is, in this market anyway, the whole car wouldn't have much more value than that.

it's amazing how easy it is once you know your way around the harness. it's suprisingly easy. my first one took the better part of 3 months.......now I can churn one out in a few hours.

like we mentioned before. mounting a distributer is easy. but in order to run the car on the EA82 computer, you'll need a disty with an optical crank angle sensor that sends out an identical signal as the stock one. mounting the EA82 disty to an EJ series motor would be an extreme nightmare, because the drive is completely different. and, even if you could create a distributor with an EA82-compatible crank angle sensor. you've still got that issue of a computer and injector designed for a 1.8l motor running on a 2.2, which means it's quite possible that it won't ever run right.

the search function is an amazing tool. phone number and street address. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=526111&postcount=7

yep......and it can't be downloaded until it's been approved. because it's in the OT section.

subaru heaven does exist. and there are numerous posts here and elsewhere about it..... it's not heaven. it's just another ripoff junkyard, except the guy only has subarus, and he knows what stuff is worth. not getting any EJ22t blocks for $150 like the other yards here in MN.

boy, sure would be nice if we could check out that letter.........