Numbchux

video! a clip of the stumblebee (yellow XJ) on Ski Jump, a clip of the zuk on the same trail, and 2 of it on the log staircase.

no.....a 258 (4.2l) block with the stock 4.0l head (fuel injection!).

http://www.mnsubaru.com

Rota's aren't exactly a light wheel :-\ 19lbs each. but just having 215/45r17 Kumho Ecstas on there makes it handle awesome. and when I was switching them on this spring, I intentionally compared them to my winter wheels/tires, and they're pretty similar. I will be finding lighter wheels for my VictoRacers to run while autoXing

Long story short.....me and my buddy piled into his stock (+31" BFG A/Ts, disconnected sway bar) '89 toy Pickup this last Saturday, and went up to the Iron Range OHV Recreational Area with the North Shore Wheelers for an awesome day of wheeling. unfortunately, we live in the midwest, so we made it through one obstacle, and this happened (and no, I'm not talking about the body): so, we wound up riding with one of the other members. on much more difficult trails than I ever would have tried with a stock yota (or anything with less than 2 solid axles ) pictures here: http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c108/Numbchux/NSW%20Opener%202008/ favorites: zuki + log staircase - front shocks = XJ + D44 front + ford 9" rear + rear spool + 33" swampers + steep rocky hill climb = oh, and if you didn't notice the carnage on the truck......here's a close-up:

^ that would be the idle air control valve. I'm throwing the same code......

an inch and a half ride height difference isn't going to shift the static weight distribution that much. and the rear doesn't need to slide any more than stock

^ yep, could be. also, I forget if the ECU uses the IAC at all once the engine is up to temp. but you might try pulling it off and cleaning it up.

he's definitely not the first to put some big sexxy wheels on an EA82......this pic is from last fall, but I put these wheels back on about a week ago: lookin good russ!

haven't had a neutral switch hooked up for 30k miles. never happened. just hooked up the VSS last fall (about 15k before that). again, never happened. noticed no difference in the way it ran after the VSS, it just stopped throwing the code. checked the codes? I'd start there. also, what's your exhaust/intake setup? have either changed since you first got it running? if the ECU learns one setup, you can have problems if you change it and don't reset the ECU to relearn. I had a few issues when I changed out my exhaust setup, then I reset the ECU and it got better. what was the EJ donor vehicle?

key word: supposedly. I don't think anyone's really pushed the EA82 trannies that hard. There's one member here that's got an STi EJ257 with a PT4WD D/R trans, but he hasn't posted enough about how well it's held up, and now the car is for sale. But, reddevil (search any subaru forum......) was putting out about 300awhp on his stock '90 legacy 5MT. which has similar internals. something that he says probably helped is stock rotating mass, don't get lightweight pulleys or flywheel. as for the rear suspension. seriously don't bother. the suspension design changed SOOOOOO much from the EA82 stuff to EJ. the amount of fabrication would be insane. you'd be better off building an Ariel Atom from scratch it's been discussed in detail before, search around the retrofitting section for some of the more extreme swap threads. you can use the WRX front stuff, and the rear brakes can be modified to bolt up the EA82 trailing arms. and the stuff that WJM discovered and subardave documented about using Tein Flex coilovers for a new legacy on an EA82. and I've found about using Miata stuff for KYB AGXs. there are all kinds of options. but it's not for the faint of heart!

depends on your definition of nice handling. yea, my car handled awesome on brand-new pavement. but it was so stiff, that the slightest irregularity in the pavement meant you'd loose traction. not to mention, it rode like an old truck. and yes, cutting coils is terrible for handling. when you heat the spring, it changes the temperament of the steel, and usually softens the spring. from my experience the last few months. as far as the alignment/handling relationship is concerned, the back seems to really like being at stock 4WD height. my car has a wicked rake right now (stock WRX springs on FWD legacy struts in the front, Monroe shocks for a subaru in the rear with 12" long 250lb/in eibach springs, riding at least as tall as stock), but handles amazingly. and I don't even have my rear sway bar in yet (waiting on poly bushings....). of course, it helps that I'm on 215/45r17 Kumho Ecstas......but even on snow tires, it was quite nice. cliff notes......lowering an EA82 = cosmetic mod only.

IMHO, don't get an EJ20K. They're expensive, and really not all that interesting. save yourself some money (and time.....OBD I) with an EJ20G (older jdm 2.0t). Or, go all out, do it right and get a wrecked USDM '02-'05 WRX (can be had for ~$5k, a good chunk of that will be made back when selling off other parts). if you go USDM, you'll have the ability for openECU/enginuity tuning, lots of aftermarket support etc. In my experience (I've only been involved to some extent in about 10 EJ20t swaps into GC/GF/BD/BG subarus), anything in between is a waste of time and money. if you're looking into EJ20Gs, look up Garage Tuning or East Coast Swappers, both can easily be found on RS25. they're probably your best source, as you'll be sure to get everything you need (they do subaru swaps....they'll know exactly what you need).

needs moar duck tape

yea, not even similar. the spindle (part that the hub and bearings ride on) is part of the axle on the front, and a separate piece in the rear.

only reason to run an EJ D/R trans is for the EJ clutch or if you'd rather just drop the big bucks on a complete trans and not crack it open. or, take an EA D/R box, use a FT4WD output shaft, EJ 4.111 ring/pinion, EJ center diff, adapter plate, EA82 flywheel, XT6 clutch kit, and you'd be set. exactly what you're looking for, and using all USDM parts.

yea, what are you asking? a FWD car doesn't have rear axles.....

lol. no. little different. depending on what kind of WRX (early jdm setup like suberdave is using, or something newer) you're talking about, there are a few things that need to be considered. things like the rear diff, hydraulic clutch, radiator, intercooler, fuel pump controller, wiring. nothing that couldn't be overcome, but that will be a bit more difficult than your average EJ swap.

when they refer to the OHV engines, they're referring to the EA81s which have pushrods and one cam. the EA82s are OHC, having one cam in each head. with the exception of some interior bits and the carb setup, the parts are the same as later GLs and Loyales. and here in the US, the EA81s stopped in '88, so if you get parts for a '92 loyale, you won't have that overlap.......might help narrow it down.

meh, mediocre advice. depends where in the country he's at. on the west coast.....just go buy one with a 5-speed. in the midwest, yea, do the swap. also, it isn't the axle ratio that is the problem with the 3ATs, it's the gears themselves. 3rd gear is sooooo low.

you can replace the water pump without pulling the tbelt, but it's a pain. and you have to remove the tbelt covers. so yea, do it now. don't bother inspecting the idler and tensioners. just replace them. I've been left on the road many times by broken timing belts, and only once was it just because the belt broke..... and yea, you can do cam and crank seals. meh, I usually didn't. that's not very high on the list of things that start to get leaky on EA82s. definitely inspect and reseal (and get the seals from the dealer. it's only a few bucks for them) the oil pump. the cam case o-rings would be a pretty good idea, but will involve quite a bit more work. and pretty much just help prevent lifter tick. and if you're going in to do that, get new valve cover gaskets (the gasket itself as well as the seals on the bolts). in my opinion, don't bother unless you're already tearing stuff apart to do head gaskets or something.

there isn't any wiring......one wire to engage the clutch. might have to splice on a different connector..... I'm sure it would work fine with some custom lines to go from the EJ compressor to the EA system, but the lines themselves are quite different between the 2.

you heard wrong. the carb'ed setup (ESPECIALLY a factory one) will have about 8x more vacuum lines and BS that doesn't work right. I totally respect your decision, but I want to make sure you've got accurate information, which it really doesn't sound like you do. The EA82 carburetor is an insanely complex unit and would be a significant down grade. I've had a couple EA82s where the only vacuum lines in the engine bay were PCV and IAC (idle air control). if it's vacuum lines that you want to avoid, don't bother looking for a factory carb but you will need the carb'ed intake manifold (the mount where the carb is level, whereas the throttle body on an SPFI one is at an angle). you'll need the distributer (vacuum advance). Then you'll need an adapter plate and a weber carb. and lots of patience to tune it. you'll also probably need to do some re-wiring. I forget how the carbed setup gets the Tach signal, but the SPFI gets it straight from the ECU, which obviously won't be doing anything anymore. I'm swapping a carbed EA82 or an EJ22 here in the next couple weeks. at which point anything and everything will be available.

yep, stealership for ya. i just pulled out my parts quick reference guide. it lists 21200AA120, but when I look that up, it says it's been superceded by 21200AA121. List price is 14.95. subaruparts.com has it for 11.39, and 1stsubaruparts.com has it for 10.76. and the housing gasket is 11072AA030. list: 1.80, subaru parts: 1.37, 1stsubaru parts: 1.30. I usually print out the shopping cart from either site with everything I need, and the local dealer will usually give me the list price for stuff. usually the cheapest and easiest option (no, they won't automatically give you the list price for things, there are a number of ways that they use to price things, and there's always some flexibility).

my donor car was an auto as well.