Numbchux

hi range is 1:1.

My camera isn't working.....but I found this old picture of my stompers, along with the STi Xmod and SWRT WRC slot car

not any places in this part of the world to get very far from civilization, so things like the chainsaw and generator are over kill. But other than that, replace that chain with a couple snap straps, and you've got yourself a list. a chain is a great thing if you're pulling with a bulldozer. but if you're stuck enough that you need to throw your weight around a bit, a chain is just going to destroy both cars. need something with some stretch to it.

cheap full coilovers? the miata stuff is for better rear shocks. has nothing to do with springs. the answer in the spring department are coilover sleeve springs. you can get crappy generic ones from ebay for pretty cheap, but chances are the spring rates will be ridiculously high (mine were 450/400 lb/in, compared to the 140/190 stock). the best bang for the buck are Ground Control sleeves. they use genuine Eibach springs, and are available in any spring rate. get them for GC ('93-'01) imprezas, 8" long springs work well. I suggest something in the 200/250 lb/in range (stiffer ones in the rear). if you'd like better dampning to match, I suggest the KYB AGX adjustables. in order to run these, you'll need to get into the miata stuff. the '99-'05 miata front shocks are virtually a direct replacement for the EA82 rears, but the spring perch is quite a bit higher. if using coilover sleeves with these shocks, run a 5" long spring (remember, you're still using subaru front struts, so keep the 8" one in the front). tirerack.com has pretty good prices on AGXs, and you don't have to buy them as a full set.

it is normal wear. every one (5) of my EA82s have had some sort of goofy problem with the power windows when I got them. and every time, it's been dirty contacts in the switch. you have to pull the switch off, and in order to do that, you have to pull the whole door card off. it's pretty self explanatory though, couple screws to remove the switch from the door card, than a couple more to open up the back of the switch. be careful, as there are a number of very small parts, and springs involved. you can tell where the brass contacts touch each other, and chances are, there will be dirt built up on them. no need for any special chemicals, just scrape it off with a flathead screwdriver or razor blade. sometimes I hit them up with a piece of sandpaper too.

no, I don't. and I'm not sure when I'll have it apart enough to take one.

followed by the rancho part number. if you'd rather go cheaper, the application is a 2" lifted TJ Wrangler. I just finished installing some Rough Country shocks on my buddies brat. pretty straight forward swap.

EA82 inner DOJ cups are about an inch deeper than the EA81s. so get your hands on 4 of those, and put them on your EA81 shafts. that'll allow you to get quite a bit of extra travel before the joint comes apart.

it's almost identical. the dust shield part looks different, but it's essentially the exact same thing as the 4-cyl one, but larger. and yes, I just happen to have a picture of one of mine from when I did the swap:

search around for posts by baccaruda. he found a way to mount XT6 calipers to his legacy knuckles. of course, that doesn't really help you because you don't have XT6 calipers. and XT6 stuff is not the same as 4-cyl EA82 stuff. tomorrow I might go take apart the XT6 hub knuckle assemblies that I just acquired and compare them to the '92 Legacy and EA82 stuff I've already got laying around. There's a few things I want to find out.

well.....I posted up some pretty detailed measurements of the 4-cyl backing plate dimensions. it's the same as that, except the caliper is 15mm (30mm bigger rotor, divided by 2) further away.

I'm actually using the loyale rod ends. they appear to work OK, but will be switching to EA81 ones soon. and yes, I did have to adjust them for toe. I put it all together, leaving them where they were with the 4-lug setup, and went for a test drive, and the front tires squeeled while driving in a straight line the toe-out was so bad.

freakin awesome! so, I've been getting away with using the L-series rod ends in my Legacy knuckles (they do 'press' in....removed one side for wheel bearing work, and had to pound it out...), but I need to get my hands on some EA81 ones ASAP. also, I love the sleeve for the ball joint. does the bolt still lock the joint in there?

just thought I'd add. my current setup is '92 FWD legacy hubs, struts, axles, etc. with '02 WRX springs. ride height is lower than stock EA82 4WD, but only by a bit.

wow......seriously, read the whole thread before responding. the problem was solved.

The tie rod mounting point is definitely closer to the center of the car, so you'll need to adjust the tie rods a bit. but there's enough to get it all to work. I've heard that EA81 rod ends are the way to go. shorter than the EA82 or EJ stuff. will allow toe-in. legacy and impreza knuckles are identical. I would think that if forester suspension on any other EJ car works without dropping the crossmember, it would work on a 5-lug swapped EA car.

I think of the clutch-type LSDs as like having a couple guys pushing on the back of the car when you've got 2 wheels off the ground. yea, if you're in a really hairy situation, it won't be enough, but if you're close, it can mean all the difference.

that is the common assumption. but Subarus have existed for about 40 years. so 15 is still pretty new. also, pop-riveted to the driver's side strut tower, there's a steel plate with some serial numbers stamped on it. This will have your true engine code, as an EJ20T doesn't really exist, it's just a generic term to reference any 2.0l turbo motor. Your motor should be an EJ20G.

The 3rd annual open house. Hosted by the North Shore Wheelers. Last year we had a stock Outback make an appearance. I'll be there, probably in a very stock Toyota. http://www.nsw4x4.com/openhouseinformation.html

vendor section.....couple options there

I have the technology to put those P7s on there That's hot, I'm glad you got it figured out. sorry I've missed your calls, been busy. That rear camber is not normal. but remember, those 3 big bolts where the torsion bar bolts to the trailing arm. those set the alignment in the rear. they're not lobed bolts like EJ camber bolts, the holes are just bigger than the bolts, so loosen them, straighten things out, and then tighten them again.

agreed.

they're AWD. but the center diff can be swapped for an EA-style FT4WD locking center diff. which would allow you to run an EJ clutch. BUT, unless you're putting out more than ~150hp, an EA-style clutch is plenty. Which means the cost of the trans, plus the work to completely tear down the tranny to swap the center diff and front pinion (has to match the center diff). and the EJ D/Rs have the 1.196:1 low range.....so swap it out for the 1.596:1 gears. back to the original question. all EA-series FT4WD 5-speeds had an open, locking center diff. sometimes EJ-series trannies are referred to as FT4WD......but they don't have a locking center diff, so they're just AWD, with the viscous diff.

XT6. Larger ball joint hole. and I did have to drill out the holes in the crossmember because the XT6 control arms use larger bolts there.

reliability. terribly timing belt design, inefficient water pump and cooling system, the crank angle sensor and ignition amplifier (right? the little thing under the coil that likes to leave you stranded in the middle of no-where). I've said it before. I will never, ever, buy another EA82 (I've owned 5) with the intent of keeping the stock motor. And I just bought a '96 Outback for my girlfriend (That would be an EJ25d, and a '96 so it's got HLAs too, it's got 123k miles on it). And my mom has been driving an '01 Legacy L with an EJ253 for 3 years. I believe she's up to almost 100k miles (had 20k when we bought it).