Numbchux

search around for posts by baccaruda. he found a way to mount XT6 calipers to his legacy knuckles. of course, that doesn't really help you because you don't have XT6 calipers. and XT6 stuff is not the same as 4-cyl EA82 stuff. tomorrow I might go take apart the XT6 hub knuckle assemblies that I just acquired and compare them to the '92 Legacy and EA82 stuff I've already got laying around. There's a few things I want to find out.

well.....I posted up some pretty detailed measurements of the 4-cyl backing plate dimensions. it's the same as that, except the caliper is 15mm (30mm bigger rotor, divided by 2) further away.

I'm actually using the loyale rod ends. they appear to work OK, but will be switching to EA81 ones soon. and yes, I did have to adjust them for toe. I put it all together, leaving them where they were with the 4-lug setup, and went for a test drive, and the front tires squeeled while driving in a straight line the toe-out was so bad.

freakin awesome! so, I've been getting away with using the L-series rod ends in my Legacy knuckles (they do 'press' in....removed one side for wheel bearing work, and had to pound it out...), but I need to get my hands on some EA81 ones ASAP. also, I love the sleeve for the ball joint. does the bolt still lock the joint in there?

just thought I'd add. my current setup is '92 FWD legacy hubs, struts, axles, etc. with '02 WRX springs. ride height is lower than stock EA82 4WD, but only by a bit.

wow......seriously, read the whole thread before responding. the problem was solved.

The tie rod mounting point is definitely closer to the center of the car, so you'll need to adjust the tie rods a bit. but there's enough to get it all to work. I've heard that EA81 rod ends are the way to go. shorter than the EA82 or EJ stuff. will allow toe-in. legacy and impreza knuckles are identical. I would think that if forester suspension on any other EJ car works without dropping the crossmember, it would work on a 5-lug swapped EA car.

I think of the clutch-type LSDs as like having a couple guys pushing on the back of the car when you've got 2 wheels off the ground. yea, if you're in a really hairy situation, it won't be enough, but if you're close, it can mean all the difference.

that is the common assumption. but Subarus have existed for about 40 years. so 15 is still pretty new. also, pop-riveted to the driver's side strut tower, there's a steel plate with some serial numbers stamped on it. This will have your true engine code, as an EJ20T doesn't really exist, it's just a generic term to reference any 2.0l turbo motor. Your motor should be an EJ20G.

The 3rd annual open house. Hosted by the North Shore Wheelers. Last year we had a stock Outback make an appearance. I'll be there, probably in a very stock Toyota. http://www.nsw4x4.com/openhouseinformation.html

vendor section.....couple options there

I have the technology to put those P7s on there That's hot, I'm glad you got it figured out. sorry I've missed your calls, been busy. That rear camber is not normal. but remember, those 3 big bolts where the torsion bar bolts to the trailing arm. those set the alignment in the rear. they're not lobed bolts like EJ camber bolts, the holes are just bigger than the bolts, so loosen them, straighten things out, and then tighten them again.

agreed.

they're AWD. but the center diff can be swapped for an EA-style FT4WD locking center diff. which would allow you to run an EJ clutch. BUT, unless you're putting out more than ~150hp, an EA-style clutch is plenty. Which means the cost of the trans, plus the work to completely tear down the tranny to swap the center diff and front pinion (has to match the center diff). and the EJ D/Rs have the 1.196:1 low range.....so swap it out for the 1.596:1 gears. back to the original question. all EA-series FT4WD 5-speeds had an open, locking center diff. sometimes EJ-series trannies are referred to as FT4WD......but they don't have a locking center diff, so they're just AWD, with the viscous diff.

XT6. Larger ball joint hole. and I did have to drill out the holes in the crossmember because the XT6 control arms use larger bolts there.

reliability. terribly timing belt design, inefficient water pump and cooling system, the crank angle sensor and ignition amplifier (right? the little thing under the coil that likes to leave you stranded in the middle of no-where). I've said it before. I will never, ever, buy another EA82 (I've owned 5) with the intent of keeping the stock motor. And I just bought a '96 Outback for my girlfriend (That would be an EJ25d, and a '96 so it's got HLAs too, it's got 123k miles on it). And my mom has been driving an '01 Legacy L with an EJ253 for 3 years. I believe she's up to almost 100k miles (had 20k when we bought it).

The name Lincoln Locker comes from the Lincoln brand welder.......it's a welded diff.

hmmm....interesting. I love O'Reilly's. Around here, anyway, they've got the best employees of any parts store.

I'll put it this way. an EJ25 is a muuuuch better option than an EA82. Making an EJ25 go for a bazillion miles isn't any harder than doing the same with an EA82. and yes, if you're not prepared for lots of tinkering, a body-lifted subaru is not for you. but a simple GF impreza wagon with outback or forester suspension would be perfect. regardless of the motor.

welcome. and keep searching. there's a list in the USRM (link at the top of the page) about it. and look for build threads by just about anyone who's posted in this thread.

The XT6 flywheel is different, but only because it's lighter. the clutch kits are 100% interchangeable.

I think the water pump and cooling passages in the EJ-series motors are substantially more effective. Since my old EA82 radiator could barely keep the EA82 cool with new pump and tstat, but was plenty for the EJ22. only reason I replaced it was it started leaking.

oh boy. there are no factory 4.444s that will fit in the part-time 4WD tranny. period. there are no lockers for the front. but any front LSD for a 5-speed subaru will work. none of them will work very well for wheelin (most are helical, and are completely ineffective unless there's at least some resistance to both wheels).

yea, the slop was really bad, so I pointed him in the direction of the USRM article that uses compression fittings and a bolt. which made it substantially worse...... I like that way! Martin, if you don't, I've got a couple Tap/die sets.......we could do that pretty easily.

still extremely misleading.....Yea, you have to be a bit more careful on the maintenance. and extremely careful when buying a used one. But it's still far from unreliable.