Numbchux

I took the measurements for them to compare to other things to see if I could get vented rears (found that Dodge Neon fronts are pretty similar, except the offset is different.....).

you'll notice stickied at the top of this very section, 2 threads. one with a complete write-up (compiled by yours truly). and another with a list of who's done the swap and what they swapped in.

I would highly recommend using EJ front knuckles/axles. then you can use EJ suspension options more easily, and brakes too! but the EJ front struts can be modified to bolt to XT6 knuckles. personally, I'd run ground-control coilover springs in the 250-300 lb/in range. with some KYB AGX struts/shocks (will need to use Miata application rears and EJ fronts). a bit less spendythan the megan racing coilovers, but much higher quality (the megan's are pretty cheap!), and just as adjustable. EJ rear suspension would be awesome, but would be a fabricating nightmare. as they're a true McPherson setup, so the location of the strut tops in relation to everything else would have to be exact, you'd definitely be cutting up the bed to make it happen. don't forget some SuperPro Poly bushings. for brakes, I love my RS 2-piston fronts with XT6 rear rotors and 200SX calipers. lots of braking power, and 15" wheels still clear (cheaper tires than with larger wheels!).

hehe. figured that was kinda obvious :-p and I'm going up to the junk yard tomorrow to see what they want for a flywheel so I can have one drilled out and ready to go. and yes, all fluids. all stuff I've got around.

would be sweet. the EZ30D is only an inch or so longer than an EJ22. so it might even fit in the EA82 engine bay with the stock radiator location. radiator hoses are a bit different (EZ30 uses a vertical-core radiator instead of horizontal like phase-I EJs and EAs), so you'll have to be a bit more creative with that....but still doable. for wiring, you have a couple options. try to find a used harness (good luck....but might be doable), new one from the dealer, to the tune of $500ish (IIRC 300 for a new bulkhead harness, and probably a couple hundred for the ECU). Or a standalone. which will be well over a grand. stock wiring is similar to EJs of the same time period. more complex than the OBD I EJ22, but not too bad. be careful with it though, the torque of the EZ30 will be able to munch up stock 5-speed gears if abused.

I'm working with this '86 and collecting parts to do the swap. I'm trying to do the swap in a day or 2 (don't have a garage.....so I'll be borrowing space). so I've been compiling a list to make sure I've got everything I need. so I thought I'd post it up, with info on where I got all the parts. mandatory: adapter plate. Bought 2 M. Rose ones through AA when I did my car. left over. heater core lines. 3' of 5/8" inner diameter hose, plenty for both lines. rad hose adapters. got my originals at NAPA, will be getting part number tomorrow rad hoses. Both lines for a '97 outback fit perfectly on a Loyale radiator. subaru part numbers 45167AC010 and 45167AA020 radiator fan. I got a generic one from Advance auto parts for ~$50. works great. optional, but good idea: T-belt kit. couple sellers on ebay offering the full kit. water pump. included in above kit clutch. Beck/Arnley new one from RockAuto for an XT6, holds up great to EJ22 power. radiator. performanceradiator.com, 1731CBR for a '92 loyale. alt belt. it's a belt.....get it wherever it's cheapest fuel pump. only required if replacing a carbed motor. I just ordered one for a '90 Ford Grand Squire wagon, we'll see tstat. OEM. 21200AA072, 21236AA010 for the gasket hose clamps. 4x2" and 4x1" I highly recommend http://www.rockauto.com for most of these. they have some of the cheapest prices, even on OEM parts.

also, never use "spring cutting" and "handling" in the same sentence.......

^problem is, EA cars bolt them to the motor. EJ cars bolt them to the trans. I've heard the EJ bracket bolts to the EA trans. and XTs bolt them to the trans, so the bracket for them works too (and the pitch stopper itself). I've been unable to find any of these pieces. I've been running without one for a year and a half and almost 30k miles. no problems yet *knock on wood* I even drove around one day without a hood, and intentionally beat on it a bit. I was watching the engine, and didn't notice any substantial forward-backward movement/

I don't believe all of them did. but I think they're fairly common. it'd be worth another look anyway.

^ what he said. lots of information in the FAQ. but, a couple things specific to your situation. you're not really going to gain much from a lift if you're running stock tires. in fact, you'd be better off leaving it unlifted and cramming some tires in there that are a few inches taller than stock! that being said, you might be very happy with a 2" lift and some ~26" tall tires (stockers are ~23"). also, wheel size is independent of tire size, only exception is the lack of large tires available for 13" wheels. I run 17" wheels on my loyale in the summer and am lowered substantially. and my '88s both had 15" wheels, lifts (one 3", one 4"), and had tire rubbing issues. it's all about the tire size.

nope. the sway bar only bolts to the trailing arms. 2 places on each arm.

sounds like a plan. the t-wag likely has a different diff gear ratio than yours so won't be a bolt up. it MIGHT have a limited slip, but unlikely. but only takes a second to see if the sticker on it says LSD. that's the only reason it might be worth saving. the trailing arm bolts are likely on there extremely tight. and are pretty hard to get at on the car. so it's kind of a big project. but would work just fine. you may also find that the turbo wagon has a rear sway bar.....and the mounts are on the trailing arm. adding the bar to your car would really help the handling!

maybe he'll send my shock mounts out too.......or I'm opening a PayPal dispute before it's too late!!

I'm curious if this will work with the EA81 pitch stopper. I've got a buddy that will need one soon, and the pitch stopper is an issue we haven't solved yet....

ding ding ding RX coupe rear springs are 179lb/in and RX sedans are 160. Wagons use 196.....s

We're lucky enough here in MN to have Subaru guys working at the parts counters of a couple of the Subaru dealers. and one time when I was in there, I was given a Parts Quick Reference Guide. It has proven invaluable over the last few years when ordering from my local dealer (the places with the subaru guys are a few hours away....so I don't get there very often). It doesn't have everything, but has most commonly replaced/service parts (wheel bearings, engine gaskets, lights, cooling stuff, hoses, etc. etc. etc.). Anyway, I just noticed it has a part number of it's own listed on the back: MSA6P0403 MSRP according to 1stsubaruparts.com is $6.70. too bad they have a $13 minimum shipping charge. BUT, it might be worth asking at your local parts counter. either for the latest quick reference guide, or just drop that part number. This one covers EVERY subaru model from 1985-2004. which means EA81s too. and separated by model number. just thought I'd share.

agreed! only thing I could tell for sure was the rear diff drop plate. and the rear crossmember wasn't dropped so couldn't be ozified.

looks hot. SJR kit?

"1. subaruguru has chosen not to receive private messages or may not be allowed to receive private messages. Therefore you may not send your message to him/her." EDIT: just notice he was banned......awesome. now I don't have a way to get in touch with him.

^ just weld up the spider gears in the center diff. done and done. or, if you've got some $$ to throw around, you can get couplers from a number of sources to eliminate the center diff. the transfer gears become the weak point, but still pretty tough. poormanzimpreza.....I believe you're just thinking of the difference between numerous r160s. they use different stub styles. the custom race that suberdave used was just to put the WRX rear LSD to match his front clip/tranny in the EA82. but was still an r160. r180s only came behind the STi 6-speeds ('04+ here in the US). where have you seen pics of burned up EA82 diffs? sure, sheared stubs, broken axles, etc. but all of those are stronger on the EJ counterparts. I also doubt you'll be killing axles left and right with a welded diff and N/A power on gravel. at stock angles, they're pretty tough.

yep, but this thread is about an EA81

the r180 swap is bolt in.....but not just the diff. the hanger is different, hubs, knuckles and axles. which means bolting in the entire crossmember, lateral links, trailing arms, struts, brakes, etc. etc. etc. etc. only reason it's bolt in, is because it was available in another subaru model. don't have to ask why a RWD subaru, sounds awesome but, I think an r180 would hold up to N/A 2.5 power pretty well.....with the reduced traction of rally, you'd probably be fine rocking the r160. a guy here in Minneapolis was running RWD in his 2.2l '99 Imp wagon with a welded 4.444 r160 in the rear. did lots of burnouts and drifts, all on pavement, and didn't break much (except that time he forgot to put fluid in it......oops ). I'd drop a nice LSD r160 in there, and call it a day.

don't need to drop the whole suspension. if it's fused to the spindle end too, you can pound the spindle out of the bearings. drop the diff (axles still attached.....) pull the brakes/hub off there, and start pounding on the spindle. it'll slide out of the bearings, and you can get it on a work bench to seperate the 2. and it's an EA81, so should have DOJs on the outer joints, so you should be able to disassemble pretty easily. also. as far as I can tell, the outer joint does not have the easily removable cap in the cup like the inner one does. I've done a lot of pounding on it, and haven't gotten one out.

well....interchangeable anyway. the '85-'86 ones have a different outer joint style. but the length and spline counts didn't change.

because it's awesome