Numbchux

this is already pretty well documented (Phizinza did it, except with dual range EA82 gears in a dual range EJ case). but, if you're not going dual range, or FT4WD, why bother. just run an EJ AWD tranny as-is. way less work, and way better than just S/R PT4WD.

EJ hubs means EJ knuckles, which means EJ axles, which means EJ brakes, which means EJ struts, etc. I'm running '92 Legacy axles on my car. they work just fine, and there seems to be a similar amount of play in the DOJ compared to stock. btw, the OEM part number for the axles I'm using are the same for anything pre-'97ish except FWD 5MT '93-'94 imprezas (which use the 23 spline inner cups)

painter. the only thing that's different between an XT6 kit and a non-turbo 4-cyl one (Beck/Arnley uses the same part number for the RX and XT6...) is the pressure plate. puts more clamping force on the disc, means more power can be held, which is necessary. my 4-cyl EA82 disc only lasted about 10k miles behind the EJ22. I've already put about 15k on it since the XT6 clutch, and it's still working like day one. the M Rose plate includes all the bolts needed, you drill out the threads on the engine bellhousing, then thread the bolts from the engine side into the adapter plate, and then the same from the tranny side. works very well.

^agreed. until the last 5 years or so, subaru ABS systems are terrible. worst part is, if it senses that one wheel is slipping, it interferes with all 4 wheels, even if the other 3 have traction. it's kind of scary when you're mashing the brake pedal, and the ABS is interfering with it, then you grab the ebrake handle and magically....the car stops.

yea, little silicone would work pretty well. otherwise, just post it up in the wanted section. I bet you could get a good one for a decent price (in fact, I've got a good one in the shed, let me check which side it is tomorrow....)

I really, really, really wish people would read the whole thread before responding. not just the first post

no, it really doesn't. I was blowing them at at least that rate before I replaced the headlight in my '88. and then went more than a year before I sold it without replacing the bulb again.

check your thread in the old gen thread. I responded with all the measurements you'd need.

I had power steering on my blue wagon. and definitely would have liked having one while wheeling. necessary? no......but it certainly would have been nice. and it'd probably be easier than converting to power steering. It's been done. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15305 that exact setup might not work on a non-tcased rig because the exhaust is right there. but it's a good start

steel wheels will definitely yield some mediocre handling compared to some nice alloys (as if that's really an option anyway). I'd say rock 'em.

read much? "EA-EJ engine adapters, new design" http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85781

not the EA82 ones.......hammer and a socket extension. pound the outer one out, and the inner one in. and, for the most part, bearings are bearings. so you can get them wherever. but IIRC the OEM ones aren't too expensive. check 1stsubaruparts.com and rockauto.com

wooooooww! and and for discopotato!!

indeed. big difference. check out the vendor section of this site. SJR has his new adapter plates for half price for a short time. hell of a deal!

here's an experiment. put a new bulb in there, and every time it rains, before you turn the lights on, go out and un plug that bulb. I had this problem with my blue lifted wagon. no visible crack in the lens, no noticeable moisture inside the headlight assembly. but if I turned the lights on while it was raining, it would only take a few seconds before it would explode. But if I went out, and un plugged the bulb, and then drove around all day in the rain, then plugged it in again when it was dry, the bulb would remain in tact. I finally bought a 'new' headlight (thanks xoomer!), and the problem went away entirely.

I took the measurements for them to compare to other things to see if I could get vented rears (found that Dodge Neon fronts are pretty similar, except the offset is different.....).

you'll notice stickied at the top of this very section, 2 threads. one with a complete write-up (compiled by yours truly). and another with a list of who's done the swap and what they swapped in.

I would highly recommend using EJ front knuckles/axles. then you can use EJ suspension options more easily, and brakes too! but the EJ front struts can be modified to bolt to XT6 knuckles. personally, I'd run ground-control coilover springs in the 250-300 lb/in range. with some KYB AGX struts/shocks (will need to use Miata application rears and EJ fronts). a bit less spendythan the megan racing coilovers, but much higher quality (the megan's are pretty cheap!), and just as adjustable. EJ rear suspension would be awesome, but would be a fabricating nightmare. as they're a true McPherson setup, so the location of the strut tops in relation to everything else would have to be exact, you'd definitely be cutting up the bed to make it happen. don't forget some SuperPro Poly bushings. for brakes, I love my RS 2-piston fronts with XT6 rear rotors and 200SX calipers. lots of braking power, and 15" wheels still clear (cheaper tires than with larger wheels!).

hehe. figured that was kinda obvious :-p and I'm going up to the junk yard tomorrow to see what they want for a flywheel so I can have one drilled out and ready to go. and yes, all fluids. all stuff I've got around.

would be sweet. the EZ30D is only an inch or so longer than an EJ22. so it might even fit in the EA82 engine bay with the stock radiator location. radiator hoses are a bit different (EZ30 uses a vertical-core radiator instead of horizontal like phase-I EJs and EAs), so you'll have to be a bit more creative with that....but still doable. for wiring, you have a couple options. try to find a used harness (good luck....but might be doable), new one from the dealer, to the tune of $500ish (IIRC 300 for a new bulkhead harness, and probably a couple hundred for the ECU). Or a standalone. which will be well over a grand. stock wiring is similar to EJs of the same time period. more complex than the OBD I EJ22, but not too bad. be careful with it though, the torque of the EZ30 will be able to munch up stock 5-speed gears if abused.

I'm working with this '86 and collecting parts to do the swap. I'm trying to do the swap in a day or 2 (don't have a garage.....so I'll be borrowing space). so I've been compiling a list to make sure I've got everything I need. so I thought I'd post it up, with info on where I got all the parts. mandatory: adapter plate. Bought 2 M. Rose ones through AA when I did my car. left over. heater core lines. 3' of 5/8" inner diameter hose, plenty for both lines. rad hose adapters. got my originals at NAPA, will be getting part number tomorrow rad hoses. Both lines for a '97 outback fit perfectly on a Loyale radiator. subaru part numbers 45167AC010 and 45167AA020 radiator fan. I got a generic one from Advance auto parts for ~$50. works great. optional, but good idea: T-belt kit. couple sellers on ebay offering the full kit. water pump. included in above kit clutch. Beck/Arnley new one from RockAuto for an XT6, holds up great to EJ22 power. radiator. performanceradiator.com, 1731CBR for a '92 loyale. alt belt. it's a belt.....get it wherever it's cheapest fuel pump. only required if replacing a carbed motor. I just ordered one for a '90 Ford Grand Squire wagon, we'll see tstat. OEM. 21200AA072, 21236AA010 for the gasket hose clamps. 4x2" and 4x1" I highly recommend http://www.rockauto.com for most of these. they have some of the cheapest prices, even on OEM parts.

also, never use "spring cutting" and "handling" in the same sentence.......

^problem is, EA cars bolt them to the motor. EJ cars bolt them to the trans. I've heard the EJ bracket bolts to the EA trans. and XTs bolt them to the trans, so the bracket for them works too (and the pitch stopper itself). I've been unable to find any of these pieces. I've been running without one for a year and a half and almost 30k miles. no problems yet *knock on wood* I even drove around one day without a hood, and intentionally beat on it a bit. I was watching the engine, and didn't notice any substantial forward-backward movement/

I don't believe all of them did. but I think they're fairly common. it'd be worth another look anyway.

^ what he said. lots of information in the FAQ. but, a couple things specific to your situation. you're not really going to gain much from a lift if you're running stock tires. in fact, you'd be better off leaving it unlifted and cramming some tires in there that are a few inches taller than stock! that being said, you might be very happy with a 2" lift and some ~26" tall tires (stockers are ~23"). also, wheel size is independent of tire size, only exception is the lack of large tires available for 13" wheels. I run 17" wheels on my loyale in the summer and am lowered substantially. and my '88s both had 15" wheels, lifts (one 3", one 4"), and had tire rubbing issues. it's all about the tire size.