Numbchux

well.....the r180 doesn't just fit in where an r160 did. it's physically bigger in almost every dimension. and an r200 is bigger still. it can be done but it'll be alot of custom work. why are you looking at doing this?

wost case scenario, pull the joint apart, and clean the grease out of the cup. there's a cap in the bottom of the cup, and through there you can get to the E10 bolt that holds the stub in. you can take the stub out of the diff. at which point, you can soak the whole thing in penetrant. get some serious heat without worrying about cooking bearings and seals, or just cut the cup off.....I've done that.

all subarus with fuel injection have the baffles (I don't remember if carbed EA82s do or not). but EA81s don't.....

I've never heard that..... yea, I realized later that the confusion might be from the newer viscous ones where one side has 2 sets of splines.

I don't think there is a difference. I've run with a combination of them before (and currently am, one of each), never had a problem.

agreed. happened on my car, I got a short in one of my turn signals, and next thing I know, my seatbelts don't work.

exactly. there's a bolt in the back that IIRC bolts to the intake mani. I ran like that (except with the power steering and stock belt) for about a year and a half

don't need a custom bracket to remove the compressor on an inboard setup. stock bracket works fine. I'll try to dig up pics of either of my '88s engine bay....

yep. I have an '85 bumper on my '92 Loyale. looks much better and was an easy swap. bolts right up. turn signal plugs are different, but function the same so that's not hard.

cars without A/C have the Alt in a different place....so a belt designed for one won't be quite what you're looking for if it's an inboard A/C unit (compressor between alt and PS pump), the stock belt will reach just fine. I'll have to look on the '86 tomorrow to see how the outboard A/C belts work....

by searching for posts started by you in this section, I found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80315

dual range.....and you can't use 5th gear but both my '88s had the stock motor and drivetrain (messed with the exhaust, and kept them tuned up for max power), and they did fine. you're not outrunning anything, in fact, it works pretty hard to keep up with traffic, but it does OK, and could cruise at 70+mph (sometimes 80+ with the wind). and the low range is extremely nice offroad. wasn't as low as I'd like it, but plenty of torque for most anything you could throw at it.

on paper, the 4-speed will work. but it would be a huge downgrade. very different tranny mounts, so you'll need to fab up a crossmember, and linkage is terrible (and frequently makes it hard to fully engage the gears, which leads to catastrophic internal failure!), and the tranny itself is a different length (I don't remember if you could use something from a different car or if you'll need to have one modified $$$). short version.....be patient. wait for the 5-speed. it'll be worth it (even though with big tires you won't use 5th gear almost at all anyway).

finally found my parts book. like I said, the upper hose is the same. but the lower one is 45167AC010 for the outback. not a major difference, but gave me enough extra travel to work with my Loyale radiator (outlet is a couple inches higher than the stock legacy one would be).

go through this thread: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 and read just about every post by 69 chargeryeeha on page 1. he painted this charger with a roller for about $50: I intend to try the same method on my wagon....

I'm not near my diagrams, but those sound like the wires for the water temp gauge and oil pressure idiot light.....just off the top of my head. have you accounted for those yet? ECUs are the same. When I suspected my ECU (came out of a '92 FWD 4EAT Legacy), I plugged it into my dad's '94 AWD 5MT Legacy. it worked just fine. you don't need to do anything with the neutral switch wire. it'll just assume it's in gear. might throw a code....but it'll work fine.

sure thing. it happens to even the best of us BUT, keep in mind, if you use an EJ tranny....you can use an EJ clutch. maybe get your hands on a 4.111 legacy tranny or something so you still have decent gears.

actually, the short gears will make it easier to stay in the boost (which is why the EA82ts got them..). and for autoX and rallyX where you're not spending any time at speed, it might work perfect!

the XT6s had an option for a 3.9 LSD. and was printed on the tag. so if it's got a tag and it doesn't say LSD, it's probably not one. they were pretty rare. the cool thing about the XT6 LSD, is it's already 3.9, so it's ready to drop into any other N/A EA82.

hmmm....that's odd. I'm using EA82 rod ends and they work fine. have been for 6 months. even bought a new one a few weeks ago. and when I went to replace it, the old one was perfectly pressed in there like it should be.

^ which means my comment above is completely relevant. the FT4WD RX tranny he has will yield very short freeway gears.

it's true. it's extremely rare to find an officer that actually cares. but I was actually pulled over and verbally warned for it a couple years ago.

I was thinking about this the other day. and have been looking for an old EJ ball joint to try in the 4-lug knuckles I've got. but haven't come up with anything yet. gary, the 2WD notes are pretty much completely wrong :-\ only way to use 4WD hubs on a FWD car, is to use 4WD trailing arms, the bearings are completely different. these don't need to be from an XT6..... you also don't need to disassemble the axle. all EA cars have a spindle that the hub rides on. just pound out the roll pin and remove the axle. as for the front struts. it's not the legacy struts that are the problem. it's the upper perches. pre 1999 Legacy front springs aren't tapered like the impreza ones. the 125mm upper perches fit fine, but the 146mm ones don't. why on earth would you say it's not safe to ream out the ball joint hole?!?! that's ludicrous. messaging and coaxing is not a good idea, but to ream it out with the right equipment would be just fine. also, it's already covered in the USRM, but so is alot of what you've got here. frequently XT6 control arms use a larger bolt at the crossmember. just make sure to keep that bolt when you buy the control arms, and drill out the hole in the crossmember. rear ebrake doesn't need to be 200SX calipers. 240SX ones work too (slightly different Ebrake mechanism, but same idea). and EJ rear backing plates can be modified to bolt onto the EA trailing arm. in which case, the only XT6 parts needed are the hubs. AND you'll be able to use the EJ drum-in-disc ebrake mechanism. rguyver has documented that modification. This also makes EJ rear brake upgrades (like the H6 rotors) possible. EA82 tie rod ends work fine. if they are indeed shorter, I wouldn't dare use anything else. in order to get my car down to zero toe, I only have about 1/4" of unused threads on the tie rods. anything longer would make it impossible to get the alignment correct I remember hearing that EA81 tie rod ends are shorter. I've been trying to get my hands on one to confirm this, but haven't without just buying a new one. decent write-up. but to be honest, it's obviously written by someone who hasn't done it.....

EA82 tie rod ends work fine with the EJ knuckles.

well....I have yet to actually wheel my yota but I will say why I sold the subaru.....I got tired of spending half the day leaving my rig at core trails and riding with someone else, and still breaking/bending stuff. subarus are great for some things. and you definitely can't match the attention factor. but when it comes to rocks, they just don't cut it. on many things, momentum can replace gearing, but on the rocks, momentum means broken stuff.....and you're still not over that rock. seriously, in the last year that I was wheelin the subarus, the only time I came home without more broken stuff than I left with, was when my water pump was failing. so I only drove the rig for ~20 minutes over the course of the day. it spent about 6 hours sitting in the parking lot because I didn't want to cook the engine. even so, I was constantly complimented for my driving ability. I don't consider myself an amazing driver offroad, but I'm certainly better than most, and I have subaru to thank for that. they forced me to be a better driver, pick the lines better, know when to hammer on it, and when to sacrifice the clutch in the name of keeping the wheels attached. but the time comes when your itching to take your rig on something more and more extreme......and the subaru just won't take it anymore. and if you're looking for something different, the yotas are pretty much the way to go. if you're just looking for straight up bang for the buck, you can't beat a cherokee....which is why they're everywhere, which is why I will not ever own one