Numbchux

I've seen that done, but every plate I've used had holes tapped into it and bolts threaded into the plate. You drill out the threads in the engine, and then bolt the plate on. I just looked at the ADF page, it says right there it's 3/8-16. Just a matter of measuring the thicknesses and adding it up. https://awdadventure.com/collections/ea82/products/ea-ej-adapter-plate Edit: based on the picture, it looks like the SJR one comes with smaller diameter studs, so you don't have to drill out the threads in the block. https://www.sjrlift.com/collections/engine-swap/products/ej-to-ea-engine-adapter-engine-swap-sjr-ej22-into-ea82

That is the advantage to those awful 6054 sealed beams (My XT6, Celica, 4Runner, and Econoline all use the same ones), they almost never burn out.

Bulbs are a wear item. And the bulb is just about the only common denominator between the headlight switch and DRL module. If it's not a bulb, you have a wiring gremlin.

Ah, that's a bit different. Your profile says Durham, NC. Where in AK? I've been up there a few times (got married in Girdwood). Those are both Phase 1, different head design and much less likely to fail. Those are for a 2.5. There's no factory MLS option for the phase 2 2.2.

I don't believe that. If there are 2 places here in Duluth, MN that do them regularly, there's somebody that's done them in the Raleigh area. Make some phone calls, I bet there are. I'm sure someone will chime in with more head gasket experience than I, but conventional wisdom on Subaru head gaskets, is OEM Only. I'd also be curious what your failure is, I believe the '99 2.2 should be phase 2, which the common HG failure is an external oil leak.

Yep, only thing you will "gain" is noise...

First thing I would do, is hook up to the OBD II port and watch temperatures. The factory gauge will read "normal" from about 180*F to about 215*, and will be pegged in the red by about 225, so it only takes a few degrees to make the gauge move, if it's right at the edge. Also, only takes a small error in resistance for a 210* engine to read as a 230* engine, one is a problem, the other isn't, the ECU gets it's own temperature signal. The lack of a change in coolant level makes me question whether it's overheating at all. I would also use an infrared heat gun ($20 or less on Amazon), and start checking various coolant pipes, and spots on the engine block/heads directly. I want to clarify, it does not overheat on the highway? Or ONLY while idling? I ASSume mention of the timing belt means this is a 4-cylinder, yes? Is the temperature effected by any of the other HVAC controls? How about now that the core is bypassed. On the H4 cars, the temperature control is a cable to a blend door that directs air through or around the heater core. It's a very simple circuit. But it is crucial to making the thermostat work. The difference in temperatures in the radiator hoses means the coolant isn't circulating. Either there's a water bubble getting to the water pump and causing it to cavitate, or there's a blockage (could just be the thermostat doing it's job if it's not actually overheating). I echo the questions of heater hose temperature, and head gasket brand/application. Also brand of water pump, water pump gasket, and thermostat. Was any coolant stop leak ever used? Was the coolant ever changed? How many miles on the car?

I know the luggage cover is different because of a width difference. But I wouldn't imagine the whole body shell is different.

Subaru, what. Rear bearings went to bolt in hub assemblies when the rear suspension went to multi-link, so the knuckles are completely different. So, ASSuming this 2007 Subaru is Impreza based, you get press in bearings.

The top half of the picture isn't the bottom of the front cover? If not, I have no idea what I'm looking at...

I assume the 4 long bolts without the sleeves are for the engine crossmember bolts.

What a mess, with the crap on the front of the cover, I'd say it's coming from higher up. Front main seal, probably. Clean that thing off. You'll never pinpoint it with dirt and oil everywhere like that. Get a can or 2 of engine cleaner, grab a pair of ramps, and head to a coin-op car wash.

4-cylinder, I ASSume? Those are wasted spark, meaning if the coil was bad, it would effect #3 and #4 The FSM diagnostic page for P030x is 5 pages long, checking wiring, power supply, injector, vacuum leak, spark plug, compression, etc. If you know the plugs are good, I'd swap the injectors on that side, and pull the vacuum line off the regulator (vacuum dumps right into the #3 plenum). If it doesn't follow the injector, print out that diagnostic, get your DMM, and start testing.

99 22E has the former. They stopped the latter style in 1994.

You got it. Leave the cross tube up against the body out of harm's way! Looks complete to me. Just need a steering shaft extension, and a little creativity in the engine bay to make sure all the cables and hoses reach.

Off the top of my head, I think the pins are different lengths. So use a screwdriver or something to probe them out to see which hole is deeper.

The only manifold that goes out the side that I can think of is turbo. Anything is possible with enough effort, usually easier to reuse what you have, though. EDIT: forgot you have a 2.2, so it's single port. You may have to get a 2.5 manifold from a Legacy, Forester, or 2.5RS.

I'll say again. Your 2001 has no factory module that could enable this. You would have to retrofit a Body Integrated Module from a newer car (controls a LOT more than just the dome light, including power locks, probably would need the entire bulkhead harness). According to cars101, that was a new feature on the 2002 model.

Sounds like the perfect deal. My last set of Blizzaks was after I discovered Hakkas, but they were the size I needed for a great price. When I worked at the dealership, we swapped out factory-equipped tires on a regular basis. Frequently for Nokian WRG3/WRG4s, which are an aggressive all-season. Yea, based on your description, I would be adjusting those headlights down, regardless of what the dealership says. Do you regularly have any extra weight in the back? Obviously that would tilt the headlights up more.

I've been running dedicated snow tires for about 15 years, and about 10 of them on at least 2 cars (since I met my wife). I've crewed for Rally teams at SnoDrift 6 years, and I've spent hundreds of hours ice racing on numerous tires. They will make a huge difference. Even the cheapest, off-brand, dedicated snow tire will perform better on snow and ice than the best all season. That said, they're not all equal, some have larger openings between lugs, better for snow (the original Winterforce, or Yokohama A034 competition tire), some have a lot of siping to grip on the ice. I live out in the country, but very rarely find myself in more than a dusting of snow beyond my driveway, so I'm concerned mostly with ice performance. Studs and chains are not legal here. IMHO, Nokian Hakkapeliitta tires cannot be beat. I've owned Qs, Rs, and 2 sets of R2s, and will be buying a set of R3s before this season is out. Michelin X-Ice and Bridestone Blizzak are close behind. Nokian is a little weird about who can distribute them, so it may take some shopping around, whereas Michelin and Bridestone can be bought just about anywhere. Beyond that I've used Cooper Weathermaster, Firestone Winterforce, Goodyear UltraGrip Ice, and General Altimax Arctic and been pretty similarly impressed. I also had a set of Falken Eurowinters, and was pretty unimpressed. Still better than an all season, but not much. I also highly recommend having a separate set of wheels. Not only does it save the cost and wear of mounting and balancing, but the hassle as well. Tire shops up here are booked out for weeks this time of year, so you either have to put your snows on early and run them in warmer temperatures than you should, or drive in the first few snows on your all-seasons. When they first forecast a decent snowfall, I spend an hour or so in the garage the night before swapping the snows onto both our cars. And I can swap them off as soon as temperatures start to warm up, and occasionally have to swap them back if we get a late spring storm. If you only run them when the ground temperatures are below about 40, they will generally last 30-50k miles.

On the newer models with the delayed dim, it is run through the Body Integrated Module. The '00-'01s (and maybe '02s, I'll know when I start digging into my "new" VDC) do not have a BIM. Retrofitting the factory system would be a big job. I think there are aftermarket circuits that can be wired in to offer that feature pretty simply.

The question is whether your Impreza has a phase 1 EJ22E or phase 2 EJ222. I think it should be an EJ222. If so, you can use the EJ203, best practice is to swap the intake manifold/wiring from the old engine to the new, and the crank and LH cam sprocket (as the tone wheels can be different for the sensors). If it's an EJ22e, you should be able to use any 2.2 back to 1990, again, swap the intake and wiring over. Your 2.2 will have single port exhaust, so you'll need a dual port manifold. The other major difference to watch for is EGR valve. I don't know the pattern to which engines did and did not have it, but if yours has it, it'll be plumbed into a port on the head. Ideally you get a donor engine with one, but if not, it can be blocked off (might be an issue if you have emissions/inspections), head drilled and tapped, or plumbed into the exhaust.

Yep, the early EJ ECUs are not different. There will be a pin labeled AT/MT Identifier. Off the top of my head, I think the AT harnesses don't have a pin there, so you'll have to remove a pin that you're not using (several for the automatic that are good) and add it to that spot, and ground it. This is not completely necessary, but it will help prevent codes, and change a few settings that improve driveability with a manual. But these are still simple enough to run pretty well if they thing they're still an auto.

Right at the pivot between strut and knuckle wouldn't take much to be off by a degree, so you may not be able to spot it, but it might be fixed with new struts. The parts counter at the Subaru dealership where I worked was right in front of the alignment rack, it wasn't uncommon for techs to ask one of us to come out and pull on a tire while they tightened the bolts to get the camber in range, because the camber bolts couldn't quite get it there. But it was always pulling the camber towards the positive, as the stock stuff was too far negative.

.8 degrees would probably require an inch of movement at the top mount....you would have other symptoms... If it's out of range of the camber adjustment, then something is bent. Control arm would be noticeably buckled before it would cause that much of a difference. Knuckle is far stronger than the strut. There are aftermarket camber bolts that can be used, either to replace the factory one, or in addition to (replace the lower bolt). Or, try a new strut.