Numbchux

The transmission is not your weak link. The 3AT sucks, but you'll melt a dozen EA82ts long before you break a 3AT.

My first thoughts are a post MAF intake leak or leaking fuel pressure regulator. Both can cause some strange running symptoms.

The hill holder will operate one circuit (RF/LR or LF/RR, I don't know which off the top of my head). If it's a problem, it could be replaced with a M10 Tee fitting.

If it has a hill holder, one channel splits at the hill holder, and the other will come right from the master (3 port master). If not, all 4 lines originate from the master (4 port). There's a proportioning valve in there somewhere in line to the rears, on the EJ cars, it's under the hood, but I think on the EA82s it's under the car in the rear.

04 WRX will be a pull-style clutch, so you'd need a different clutch kit (flywheel?) and slave cylinder and a 3.54 rear diff. Not sure if it would solve your axle issue.

A quick look on RockAuto lists the same clutch, and same slave. You might need stub axles. The '05 will almost certainly have male splines on the axles, where the '02 will likely have female splines. You can grab the stub axles from an older 4EAT to convert. Or grab the axles from the '05 (check the ABS tone ring. Might be different, but I doubt it).

It would be different if your 86 is an EA81 or EA82 Here's the EA81 SPFI swap write-up from the Retrofitting FAQ https://www.dropbox.com/s/k4kdbpaclc6sko4/EA81_SPI_guide.pdf?dl=0

AFAIK, it's different for different cars/codes/readers. But generally, if you manually erase the codes, they're gone. Sometimes the conditions are met for a code to no longer illuminate the CEL, but it will remain as a pending code for some time.

1st step is to get the codes read. Most auto parts stores will read this for free. Have her write down the code number, one letter and 4 numbers. The car is trying to tell you what's wrong, trying to make a guess what that might be is wasted effort.

You're getting 30+psi in the return line? Yikes! Definitely have a restriction there. Was it idling that 15 minutes? Theoretically, as long as the pressure in the return line is lower than in the rails, it should be OK. But as the revs come down, or under engine braking, it could spike up as the ECU shuts the injectors off. I would definitely run a new return line (or a new feed line, and use the old feed as the return) to get those return pressures down.

I mean, I hate the EA82. But I'm not sure I could talk myself into pulling a running one for an EA81t... I ASSume those have the same turbo placement and up-pipe routing as basically all other Subaru H4 turbos. Which would mean you'd need a EA82t crossmember, or modify yours, or redo the exhaust.

You would get the simplicity of the pushrod engine, but you'd be going from a common-but-antiquated fuel injection system (ASSuming your 88 is an EA82), to a very rare fuel injection system (AFAIK, only used on the EA81ts). Probably have to transplant the ECU and wiring from the EA81t. All the work of an EJ swap...

Looked like pinched...but hard to say. Yea, the wiring on the '05-'09 does not hold up.

Or did you just break a CV

Actually got some work time this weekend, ran the pump a bit, and it didn't sound like it was pressurizing. So I went for it, held it down for several seconds. Sure enough it started dripping from the headliner trim. Didn't take long to find a break inside the boot between the body and rear gate. 2021-02-15_08-08-43 by Numbchux, on Flickr Looked like it was pinched, but I'm not sure how. I pulled a coupler from a parts car, spliced it together, and I have a rear washer again!

Considering that poster hasn't logged on in over 12 years....there probably won't be any follow up.

Engine crossmember and radius rod/transmission crossmember brackets are 7 and 4. 2 looks like rear crossmember or mustache bar bushings. Not sure why those would be included. are #3 threaded couplers? Again, I can't think what those would be for. But even without 2 and 3, you've got everything for a high clearance 4" kit. I've done a couple similar to that.

Well, I decided to pull the LH taillight access cover from the inside off and see what I could see. Not only does the hose run down there, but there's a connector right there. Disconnected it, pushed the button, and fluid came out.... So it may be leaking before that under pressure, but it's at least connected. At this rate, I'll have it figured out by next year.

... Need to sort out if it's a coolant flow issue, or an airflow issue.

Don't just throw parts at it. Test. Diagnose. '91 Legacy can still display trouble codes even though it's not OBD II. ASSuming the Legacy that the fuel filter was designed for was fuel injected, than you have an EFI filter. Yes, the carbed EA81 uses considerably less pressure than the EJ22. You should have upgraded all rubber hoses and clamps on the pressure side to handle that. But I'm not asking about pressure, I'm asking about volume/flow. Carter's web site says minimum free flow is 21 (no mention of unit. The only one that sort of make sense is Gallons per hour, but even that seems low). '92 Legacy FSM specs the MPFI N/A EJ22 with a 21.1gph pump at 36.3psi, so on paper that actually sounds low, but since it's meant to supply fuel injected V8s up to 7.5L....I would think it would have enough. You have fuel pressure gauges on inlet and return? What do they say?

Does it run OK? Any codes? If you're washing the cylinders walls enough to get fuel past the rings and into the oil, I expect it to be running pig rich. Sound about right? EA81s have a smaller return line, not intended for fuel injection. What's the volume of that pump you're running? If it's higher than stock EJ22, it's possible your return line is restricting and overpowering the regulator. You could put a fuel pressure gauge in after the regulator to see if that side of the circuit is pressurizing.

The factory service manual has a several page diagnostic chart for P030x codes. Tune-up is definitely the place to start, but it could be any one of about a dozen things. Ranging from a loose hose to a blown engine and everything in between.

I started with the FSM and parts diagrams. Nothing definitive that I can find.

Yep, I'd put a multi meter on the system (even just to the cigarette lighter plug) and see what it looks like while running and revving. Use a paint pen or white out to draw a line across the face of crank pulley, then you can tell if the outer ring moves. Check belt tension. You have checked *all* grounds? And you are 100% confident all contacts are making good connection, and wires have good continuity?

1998 Forester. Rear washer doesn't work. I was sitting in the garage last night with everything else off, and not only can I hear the pump running, but it sounds like I'm hearing it spray out under the car, but I suppose it could be under the carpet under the driver's seat. Anyone know how that's routed? Parts page just shows a couple sections of hose (is it actually rubber hose the whole way, or is it hard tube at some point?) with no reference how that goes on the body.