Numbchux

by searching for posts started by you in this section, I found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80315

dual range.....and you can't use 5th gear but both my '88s had the stock motor and drivetrain (messed with the exhaust, and kept them tuned up for max power), and they did fine. you're not outrunning anything, in fact, it works pretty hard to keep up with traffic, but it does OK, and could cruise at 70+mph (sometimes 80+ with the wind). and the low range is extremely nice offroad. wasn't as low as I'd like it, but plenty of torque for most anything you could throw at it.

on paper, the 4-speed will work. but it would be a huge downgrade. very different tranny mounts, so you'll need to fab up a crossmember, and linkage is terrible (and frequently makes it hard to fully engage the gears, which leads to catastrophic internal failure!), and the tranny itself is a different length (I don't remember if you could use something from a different car or if you'll need to have one modified $$$). short version.....be patient. wait for the 5-speed. it'll be worth it (even though with big tires you won't use 5th gear almost at all anyway).

finally found my parts book. like I said, the upper hose is the same. but the lower one is 45167AC010 for the outback. not a major difference, but gave me enough extra travel to work with my Loyale radiator (outlet is a couple inches higher than the stock legacy one would be).

go through this thread: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 and read just about every post by 69 chargeryeeha on page 1. he painted this charger with a roller for about $50: I intend to try the same method on my wagon....

I'm not near my diagrams, but those sound like the wires for the water temp gauge and oil pressure idiot light.....just off the top of my head. have you accounted for those yet? ECUs are the same. When I suspected my ECU (came out of a '92 FWD 4EAT Legacy), I plugged it into my dad's '94 AWD 5MT Legacy. it worked just fine. you don't need to do anything with the neutral switch wire. it'll just assume it's in gear. might throw a code....but it'll work fine.

sure thing. it happens to even the best of us BUT, keep in mind, if you use an EJ tranny....you can use an EJ clutch. maybe get your hands on a 4.111 legacy tranny or something so you still have decent gears.

actually, the short gears will make it easier to stay in the boost (which is why the EA82ts got them..). and for autoX and rallyX where you're not spending any time at speed, it might work perfect!

the XT6s had an option for a 3.9 LSD. and was printed on the tag. so if it's got a tag and it doesn't say LSD, it's probably not one. they were pretty rare. the cool thing about the XT6 LSD, is it's already 3.9, so it's ready to drop into any other N/A EA82.

hmmm....that's odd. I'm using EA82 rod ends and they work fine. have been for 6 months. even bought a new one a few weeks ago. and when I went to replace it, the old one was perfectly pressed in there like it should be.

^ which means my comment above is completely relevant. the FT4WD RX tranny he has will yield very short freeway gears.

it's true. it's extremely rare to find an officer that actually cares. but I was actually pulled over and verbally warned for it a couple years ago.

I was thinking about this the other day. and have been looking for an old EJ ball joint to try in the 4-lug knuckles I've got. but haven't come up with anything yet. gary, the 2WD notes are pretty much completely wrong :-\ only way to use 4WD hubs on a FWD car, is to use 4WD trailing arms, the bearings are completely different. these don't need to be from an XT6..... you also don't need to disassemble the axle. all EA cars have a spindle that the hub rides on. just pound out the roll pin and remove the axle. as for the front struts. it's not the legacy struts that are the problem. it's the upper perches. pre 1999 Legacy front springs aren't tapered like the impreza ones. the 125mm upper perches fit fine, but the 146mm ones don't. why on earth would you say it's not safe to ream out the ball joint hole?!?! that's ludicrous. messaging and coaxing is not a good idea, but to ream it out with the right equipment would be just fine. also, it's already covered in the USRM, but so is alot of what you've got here. frequently XT6 control arms use a larger bolt at the crossmember. just make sure to keep that bolt when you buy the control arms, and drill out the hole in the crossmember. rear ebrake doesn't need to be 200SX calipers. 240SX ones work too (slightly different Ebrake mechanism, but same idea). and EJ rear backing plates can be modified to bolt onto the EA trailing arm. in which case, the only XT6 parts needed are the hubs. AND you'll be able to use the EJ drum-in-disc ebrake mechanism. rguyver has documented that modification. This also makes EJ rear brake upgrades (like the H6 rotors) possible. EA82 tie rod ends work fine. if they are indeed shorter, I wouldn't dare use anything else. in order to get my car down to zero toe, I only have about 1/4" of unused threads on the tie rods. anything longer would make it impossible to get the alignment correct I remember hearing that EA81 tie rod ends are shorter. I've been trying to get my hands on one to confirm this, but haven't without just buying a new one. decent write-up. but to be honest, it's obviously written by someone who hasn't done it.....

EA82 tie rod ends work fine with the EJ knuckles.

well....I have yet to actually wheel my yota but I will say why I sold the subaru.....I got tired of spending half the day leaving my rig at core trails and riding with someone else, and still breaking/bending stuff. subarus are great for some things. and you definitely can't match the attention factor. but when it comes to rocks, they just don't cut it. on many things, momentum can replace gearing, but on the rocks, momentum means broken stuff.....and you're still not over that rock. seriously, in the last year that I was wheelin the subarus, the only time I came home without more broken stuff than I left with, was when my water pump was failing. so I only drove the rig for ~20 minutes over the course of the day. it spent about 6 hours sitting in the parking lot because I didn't want to cook the engine. even so, I was constantly complimented for my driving ability. I don't consider myself an amazing driver offroad, but I'm certainly better than most, and I have subaru to thank for that. they forced me to be a better driver, pick the lines better, know when to hammer on it, and when to sacrifice the clutch in the name of keeping the wheels attached. but the time comes when your itching to take your rig on something more and more extreme......and the subaru just won't take it anymore. and if you're looking for something different, the yotas are pretty much the way to go. if you're just looking for straight up bang for the buck, you can't beat a cherokee....which is why they're everywhere, which is why I will not ever own one

you might be able to retrofit the fuel temp sensor.....but like I said, it'll just throw a code without it, it'll still run fine. that's pretty low on the list of priorities in a project like this. not sure exactly what you're referring to with an X-brace. but the solution won't be any one thing. the entire body needs braced. ideally, a full roll cage that ties into the rear shock towers. as well as fender braces, and a front strut tower brace that ties into the firewall. no small project, but nothing that a couple hundred pounds of tubing and a welder couldn't fix. as for lowering. coilover sleeves. I think I've typed those 2 words 4 or 5 times in the last few days between here and the NASIOC old-gen forum. suspension setups have been discussed time and time again. look around a bit. actually.....every question you've asked has been mentioned in quantity either here or on NASIOC.

considering how rare they're getting, I'm sure whatever the price the yard is asking, you could get and some extra for your time from a fellow board member.

just make sure you don't mount them too far forward so you don't get glare on the windsheild. here's the setup I had on my blue wagon (tabs welded onto the ends of my Yakima crossbars): sweet picture, but the lights are too far forward, notice how they light up the windshield. which means that the light will reflect off any dirt thats on the glass, and cause a glare. daylight pic of those: and yes, I did break these off on the trail once :-\ much simpler method. the PO of the black wagon that I had just drilled 2 holes in the Thule roof rack bars (square):

the turbo 5th is .871 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68752 I don't know what's up with your situation....maybe the PT4WD trannies had the taller gears? but I know the RX DR PT4WD one had the puny 1.196:1 low range

finally started taking apart the '99 miata fronts that I have.....here's what I found. comparable length to the EA82, and substantially longer shock body (substantially less travel). so these aren't a very good option if lowering is high on your list of priorities.....but should work fine from a performance standpoint. I also just saw a post mentioning flipping the upper bracket upside-down for a small drop.... the NB miatas ('98?-'05 I believe) have a bushing in the upper mount much like the EA82s: so I think these will work a bit better with the EA82 upper mounts then the NA ones. I got a nice deal on a pair of 1200.250.0250 Eibach/Ground-Control springs (12" long, 2.5" ID, 250 lb/in) on ebay: these are very close to stock EA82 springs in dimensions (in fact....could make for a decent upgrade for EA82s....). Here on the EA82 shock): and similar height to the stock miata ones: the miata upper bushings go on like this: replace the lower washer (won't fit inside the 2.5" spring) with the EA82 spring perch: and stick the upper bracket (only ones I have are currently mounted on my car :-\ so not test-fitting) in that bushing, and you're hot to go.

check your manuals. the turbo 5-speeds have drastically shorter 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. the N/A EA82 5-speeds have similar gears to most EJ 5-speeds.

local guy did that on his impreza......stock 22e, and he didn't beat on it too much, it only lasted a couple months before it busted a tooth off of one of the side gears.

depends which one you want to have low range (as minimal that low range is). personally, I'd rather have that extra reduction on the turbo car to make it easier to stay in the power band. but then again....you'll be shifting more often, so you may not stay in gear long enough to build boost......hard to say, and depends what exactly you're shooting for out of the 22t (stock? GT40R? ) also, that turbo EA82 tranny will have very short freeway gears. if you spend any time above 60mph, I'd look into getting a replacement EJ tranny (you can always swap the LSD internals into the matching rear diff).

what? that's the exact opposite of everything I've heard. I haven't done it myself, but we're looking at doing it to my dad's '94 LGT. I've always heard struts gain a bit, and springs gain a bit more. I know a local guy that used to have an outback lowered his by putting stock impreza springs on it.

the upper hose has the same part number, outback or not (outbacks have a small block on the engine crossmember). the lower hose is a different part number, but the difference is pretty minimal. so I think the stock one will be fine. if it gets kinked....just replace it with an outback one (I've got the part number written down for that....I'll add that in a minute if I can find it).