Numbchux

mine would do that when my radiator was leaking. and I think the biggest reason was the system wasn't pressurizing. you say you got a new radiator....but how's the radiator cap?

if you're just doing a clutch, I definitely would do it by pulling the motor. but I'd leave the trans where it is. just to pull the trans, I'd jack the front end up, drop the trans out the bottom, and leave the engine where it is. but whatever you like. the driveshaft and axles are the same. no need to change either of those.

whoever told you it wouldn't bolt up must have been thinking of a legacy. the D/R trannies use a 3.9 rear diff....you'll have to check yours, but I think all N/A 5MTs use a 3.9. you can leave the vacuum stuff if you'd like, but it won't be used. it's not hard to remove, so I'd just do that.... only things you'll need is the tranny itself, and the linkage (assuming your car already has a 3.9 rear diff....otherwise you'll need it too).

meh, I'd prefer leaving the motor in..... also, don't need a carb to get low range.

using a hydraulic cylinder with pneumatics doesn't really work all that well.... and like I said, it won't be long before you max out every other component of the front suspension. the rear isn't too complex, so you can get away with alot more..... I say throw some sedan springs on it and see how it goes. you might notice much better travel that way.

^ no need.....the stock springs are pretty well matched, I think you'll find that your maxing out the travel of the struts. very good point. the struts are the immediate limiting factor. but if you put longer travel struts, you'll be maxing other things out in a hurry (control arm, tie rod, axle, etc. etc. etc.) EDIT: I just realized you've got a buggy....so it might not be heavy enough to fully compress the stock springs. what springs are you running now? you may try some from an EA82 coupe or sedan....they're 12 lb/in's softer than the wagon or XT ones, and 20lbs softer than the RX ones.

too much travel = broken joints. but, the struts are the biggest limitation (assuming you don't have a sway bar...). need to find longer travel struts (good luck)

I suspect that might be the case. IMHO, a clutch is not a place to skimp.

yea...I just did a search for project cheap and that's what came up....

the blue brat would be awesome! we need more EA representation in that crowd

the blue one without doors was a wagon with the back cut off...... few lifted sedans around, but they're pretty rare. DrKrazy has a lifted '86 sedan....

tentatively talking June 14 this year

not really....the EA81 axles are shorter. and the control arms are different. putting the inner axle cups from the RX axles on the EA81 shafts is a possibility, otherwise you're looking at some rather hefty modification to the rest of the suspension system. I wouldn't recommend that route unless you're a really good welder.

They did this last year, first time, 63 cars came along. all new-gen. would be sweet to have some old-school representation. we could even call it MW-5? some of the guys not in the Twin Cities are talking about camping, but are a pretty rowdy group, so Sarah and I were thinking of going out of our way to get a camp site somewhere else to make brats and hang around the fire after the festivities. much like at MW-3. few pics from last year: obviously...I didn't make it either no date this year yet, but they're looking at sometime the end of June (last year was June 23). here's what happened last year: 2 1/2 hour cruise to Copeland Park Pavillion in La Crosse. Lunch provided by Rooster Andy's Catering Services. Brats/Hamburgers/potato salad/baked beans. 2 Red Bull girls handing out free energy drinks for an hour or so. Raffle giveaway:Shirts, Hats, Phenolic spacers. Rich even threw in a one night stay at the Ice Races last year! We had sheets made up with SN, mods, year, etc. for the windsheilds. Maps w/video locations marked on them. Group photo. Subaru of La Crosse had some newer model Imprezas there on display.(No 08's) But we tried! Channel 19 news showed up to film and interview. they're talking about adding a softball or kickball game if possible too. anyone here interested?

RockAuto.com has a Subaru (part number 15010AA016) one for 125.....careful though, they've got a Beck/Arnley one listed there too....but if you look at the picture, it's an EA81 pump.

I really don't know the difference, other than one is the newer version. but some research on Wikipedia or Nasioc would turn up the answer to that pretty easily the tranny stuff, you'll find that any turbo EA82 tranny uses 25 spline axle stubs, and all EA81 axles have 23 splines. so a pair of custom/hybrid axles will have to be made. I don't know any more about it, but it's a common question, so you should be able to find a discussion about it here somewhere.

well, fabrication, or just plain buying stuff. the entire exhaust and intake (pre-intercooler) systems are different. headers, crossover, uppipe, y-pipe (which isn't a Y on the tt systems......btw, in new-gen turbo car talk, a y-pipe is the piece between the turbo and IC), etc. also, to convert to single turbo, you won't want to re-use either of the turbo's on there, as they're designed to run with both of them, running with just the one will drastically hurt performance. so add the cost of all the above listed exhaust/intake stuff, plus a turbo, to the cost of the motor, vs just buying a single turbo motor.....

well, there's a reason the twin turbo motors are so cheap. they're not easy for a swap. the 2 turbo's will not fit in stock location in a left hand drive car. the left side turbo and the steering linkage will try to occupy the same space..... SOO, quite a bit of custom work will be required to make the 2 turbos work, which is debatably not worth it. It sounds like a good idea, but there's a gaping hole, sometimes referred to as the VOD (valley of death) where the smaller turbo has run out of steam, and the larger one hasn't kicked in yet, so in practice, it just doesn't work very well. So, then you open a whole new can of fabrication worms in the converting of an EJ20H or EJ20R to a single turbo. which isn't terribly simple (but not impossible). short story, if diving into a hole extra realm of modification just to make it run (which I would never recommend, in my experience, keep it as stock as possible when swapping.....only mess with one level of modification at a time) sounds like your alley, go for it. otherwise cough up the money for an EJ20G, it'll be a simpler swap, for very similar results. btw, technically an EJ20tt doesn't exist, and if you use that term around some of the more anal gurus, you'll get reamed out, even though you're just referring to any 2.0l twin turbo motor

I've looked into this. I've got all 4 doors from my '85, and I've tried mounting any of the other 3 in the drivers door, with no luck. some modification would be necessary. I've also looked into trying to get an actuator from a RHD model, but also with no luck (been watching foreign ebays for parts). seems to me it'd be much easier to do this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Brand-New-Universal-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator_W0QQitemZ110213602398QQihZ001QQcategoryZ33696QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem $15 for a universal actuator with hardware as for the wiring, for the absolute simplest system, you're looking at at least 4 wires. power and ground for the unit, and 2 to the actuator (have to reverse polarity for unlock). although most systems will require an antennae to be mounted in the window somewhere, and have wires for all 4 doors, something to flash the parking lights, etc. etc. probably possible to pull something from a yard, but a total PITA, with no guarantee that it'll work, and it'll probably be more than a little difficult to find diagrams for it. or you could do this, and then throw the second actuator back on ebay and make a bit of your money back: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KEYLESS-ENTRY-UNIVERSAL-2-DOOR-POWER-LOCK-KIT_W0QQitemZ290197096378QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33723QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

...was last weekend. pretty good time. the conditions sucked. we've had alot of snow this year, and some warm temperatures made it extremely difficult to plow, so the course was very short. more than a minute shorter times than previous years. and the ice was extremely rough. enough that it totally killed my right front wheel bearings. not a sound on the drive up, and by Saturday morning, they were completely gone (I took the wheel off, and there was a couple rollers in the snow caked in my rim). so it's still up there.... BUT, we've got a member who's an extremely talented photographer, and he got some really good pics of my car this year: hmm....something might be wrong... and my car spent most of the weekend like this: maybe better luck in March

you'll need an actuator for the drivers door. there's a guy on ebay selling universal ones for like $10, I just bought one. a simple 2 wire one would be fine. then the remote system itself. which you only need to wire to the one actuator, because locking that door with automatically lock the rest. long story short....not a good thing to be looking for at the junkyard. you can get a decent setup brand new for less than $50.

the shock itself is a pretty generic design. but the listed rancho part number (or at least the RC counterpart) has a bracket on the top that will mount to the stock mounts almost perfectly. zero modification required. My buddy wanted new, longer rear shocks for his brat. we looked up the Rancho 5241, turns out to be the part for a mildly (1-3" IIRC) lifted TJ wrangler. so we cross-referenced it to application charts for other things, and got the cheaper Rough Country versions. looks like they'll work wonderfully (although we haven't finished the rest of the lift yet, so we haven't actually installed them)

meh, getting parts from multiple cars is overkill. that would be the nicest combo, but the OBD I motors are still great (my '92 EJ22e has 260k miles), and the OBD II wiring isn't that terrible to work with. also, the only difference between the 90-91 motors and the 92-94 ones are the shape of the engine harness plugs.

the OBD I motors are physically identicaly, and the OBD II ones are slightly different. but the biggest difference is the engine wiring harness (the one under the intake mani). the style and number of plugs between the engine harness and body harness changed numerous times, and the plugs are in a completely different place on the OBD II ones.

my 17x8 +42 Rota's clear things just fine. and tuck into the wheel wells just like sock.