Numbchux

I'm not near my diagrams, but those sound like the wires for the water temp gauge and oil pressure idiot light.....just off the top of my head. have you accounted for those yet? ECUs are the same. When I suspected my ECU (came out of a '92 FWD 4EAT Legacy), I plugged it into my dad's '94 AWD 5MT Legacy. it worked just fine. you don't need to do anything with the neutral switch wire. it'll just assume it's in gear. might throw a code....but it'll work fine.

sure thing. it happens to even the best of us BUT, keep in mind, if you use an EJ tranny....you can use an EJ clutch. maybe get your hands on a 4.111 legacy tranny or something so you still have decent gears.

actually, the short gears will make it easier to stay in the boost (which is why the EA82ts got them..). and for autoX and rallyX where you're not spending any time at speed, it might work perfect!

the XT6s had an option for a 3.9 LSD. and was printed on the tag. so if it's got a tag and it doesn't say LSD, it's probably not one. they were pretty rare. the cool thing about the XT6 LSD, is it's already 3.9, so it's ready to drop into any other N/A EA82.

hmmm....that's odd. I'm using EA82 rod ends and they work fine. have been for 6 months. even bought a new one a few weeks ago. and when I went to replace it, the old one was perfectly pressed in there like it should be.

^ which means my comment above is completely relevant. the FT4WD RX tranny he has will yield very short freeway gears.

it's true. it's extremely rare to find an officer that actually cares. but I was actually pulled over and verbally warned for it a couple years ago.

I was thinking about this the other day. and have been looking for an old EJ ball joint to try in the 4-lug knuckles I've got. but haven't come up with anything yet. gary, the 2WD notes are pretty much completely wrong :-\ only way to use 4WD hubs on a FWD car, is to use 4WD trailing arms, the bearings are completely different. these don't need to be from an XT6..... you also don't need to disassemble the axle. all EA cars have a spindle that the hub rides on. just pound out the roll pin and remove the axle. as for the front struts. it's not the legacy struts that are the problem. it's the upper perches. pre 1999 Legacy front springs aren't tapered like the impreza ones. the 125mm upper perches fit fine, but the 146mm ones don't. why on earth would you say it's not safe to ream out the ball joint hole?!?! that's ludicrous. messaging and coaxing is not a good idea, but to ream it out with the right equipment would be just fine. also, it's already covered in the USRM, but so is alot of what you've got here. frequently XT6 control arms use a larger bolt at the crossmember. just make sure to keep that bolt when you buy the control arms, and drill out the hole in the crossmember. rear ebrake doesn't need to be 200SX calipers. 240SX ones work too (slightly different Ebrake mechanism, but same idea). and EJ rear backing plates can be modified to bolt onto the EA trailing arm. in which case, the only XT6 parts needed are the hubs. AND you'll be able to use the EJ drum-in-disc ebrake mechanism. rguyver has documented that modification. This also makes EJ rear brake upgrades (like the H6 rotors) possible. EA82 tie rod ends work fine. if they are indeed shorter, I wouldn't dare use anything else. in order to get my car down to zero toe, I only have about 1/4" of unused threads on the tie rods. anything longer would make it impossible to get the alignment correct I remember hearing that EA81 tie rod ends are shorter. I've been trying to get my hands on one to confirm this, but haven't without just buying a new one. decent write-up. but to be honest, it's obviously written by someone who hasn't done it.....

EA82 tie rod ends work fine with the EJ knuckles.

well....I have yet to actually wheel my yota but I will say why I sold the subaru.....I got tired of spending half the day leaving my rig at core trails and riding with someone else, and still breaking/bending stuff. subarus are great for some things. and you definitely can't match the attention factor. but when it comes to rocks, they just don't cut it. on many things, momentum can replace gearing, but on the rocks, momentum means broken stuff.....and you're still not over that rock. seriously, in the last year that I was wheelin the subarus, the only time I came home without more broken stuff than I left with, was when my water pump was failing. so I only drove the rig for ~20 minutes over the course of the day. it spent about 6 hours sitting in the parking lot because I didn't want to cook the engine. even so, I was constantly complimented for my driving ability. I don't consider myself an amazing driver offroad, but I'm certainly better than most, and I have subaru to thank for that. they forced me to be a better driver, pick the lines better, know when to hammer on it, and when to sacrifice the clutch in the name of keeping the wheels attached. but the time comes when your itching to take your rig on something more and more extreme......and the subaru just won't take it anymore. and if you're looking for something different, the yotas are pretty much the way to go. if you're just looking for straight up bang for the buck, you can't beat a cherokee....which is why they're everywhere, which is why I will not ever own one

you might be able to retrofit the fuel temp sensor.....but like I said, it'll just throw a code without it, it'll still run fine. that's pretty low on the list of priorities in a project like this. not sure exactly what you're referring to with an X-brace. but the solution won't be any one thing. the entire body needs braced. ideally, a full roll cage that ties into the rear shock towers. as well as fender braces, and a front strut tower brace that ties into the firewall. no small project, but nothing that a couple hundred pounds of tubing and a welder couldn't fix. as for lowering. coilover sleeves. I think I've typed those 2 words 4 or 5 times in the last few days between here and the NASIOC old-gen forum. suspension setups have been discussed time and time again. look around a bit. actually.....every question you've asked has been mentioned in quantity either here or on NASIOC.

considering how rare they're getting, I'm sure whatever the price the yard is asking, you could get and some extra for your time from a fellow board member.

just make sure you don't mount them too far forward so you don't get glare on the windsheild. here's the setup I had on my blue wagon (tabs welded onto the ends of my Yakima crossbars): sweet picture, but the lights are too far forward, notice how they light up the windshield. which means that the light will reflect off any dirt thats on the glass, and cause a glare. daylight pic of those: and yes, I did break these off on the trail once :-\ much simpler method. the PO of the black wagon that I had just drilled 2 holes in the Thule roof rack bars (square):

the turbo 5th is .871 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68752 I don't know what's up with your situation....maybe the PT4WD trannies had the taller gears? but I know the RX DR PT4WD one had the puny 1.196:1 low range

finally started taking apart the '99 miata fronts that I have.....here's what I found. comparable length to the EA82, and substantially longer shock body (substantially less travel). so these aren't a very good option if lowering is high on your list of priorities.....but should work fine from a performance standpoint. I also just saw a post mentioning flipping the upper bracket upside-down for a small drop.... the NB miatas ('98?-'05 I believe) have a bushing in the upper mount much like the EA82s: so I think these will work a bit better with the EA82 upper mounts then the NA ones. I got a nice deal on a pair of 1200.250.0250 Eibach/Ground-Control springs (12" long, 2.5" ID, 250 lb/in) on ebay: these are very close to stock EA82 springs in dimensions (in fact....could make for a decent upgrade for EA82s....). Here on the EA82 shock): and similar height to the stock miata ones: the miata upper bushings go on like this: replace the lower washer (won't fit inside the 2.5" spring) with the EA82 spring perch: and stick the upper bracket (only ones I have are currently mounted on my car :-\ so not test-fitting) in that bushing, and you're hot to go.

check your manuals. the turbo 5-speeds have drastically shorter 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. the N/A EA82 5-speeds have similar gears to most EJ 5-speeds.

local guy did that on his impreza......stock 22e, and he didn't beat on it too much, it only lasted a couple months before it busted a tooth off of one of the side gears.

depends which one you want to have low range (as minimal that low range is). personally, I'd rather have that extra reduction on the turbo car to make it easier to stay in the power band. but then again....you'll be shifting more often, so you may not stay in gear long enough to build boost......hard to say, and depends what exactly you're shooting for out of the 22t (stock? GT40R? ) also, that turbo EA82 tranny will have very short freeway gears. if you spend any time above 60mph, I'd look into getting a replacement EJ tranny (you can always swap the LSD internals into the matching rear diff).

what? that's the exact opposite of everything I've heard. I haven't done it myself, but we're looking at doing it to my dad's '94 LGT. I've always heard struts gain a bit, and springs gain a bit more. I know a local guy that used to have an outback lowered his by putting stock impreza springs on it.

the upper hose has the same part number, outback or not (outbacks have a small block on the engine crossmember). the lower hose is a different part number, but the difference is pretty minimal. so I think the stock one will be fine. if it gets kinked....just replace it with an outback one (I've got the part number written down for that....I'll add that in a minute if I can find it).

tried to post this last night....but the site stopped responding.... I've mentioned much of this, and solutions for most of it. the DBW (drive-by-wire....you'll see this acronym on the big impreza forums) means you'll need to swap the pedal box. which you'll already have to do for the hydraulic clutch. the signal for the tach is the same, you can put the speedo gear from any 5-speed in place of the electronic sensor in the 6-speed. and run the EA speedo cable and speedo. the temp gauge signal will work just like any other EJ swap, the EJ257 still only has an idiot light for the oil pressure....so wire in an LED (or re-use one of the existing idiot lights). you'll need to modify the radiator support to use the STi radiator, but that's been done and documented. the stock DCCD controller depends on the stock ABS system. which you're just not going to retrofit onto an EA car.....but, there are aftermarket controllers specifically designed for non-abs cars (buddy of mine just installed it in his '93 legacy). or, run without it and run with uber rear-bias. the interior stuff is a matter of opinion....I personally like the simple interior with my XT6 seat upgrade. and caboobaroo has just documented STi seats in his coupe. yes, brakes suck stock, which is why I say you MUST go 5-lug. once you've tracked down XT6 rear hubs, you can run the STi brakes at all 4 corners. there are lots of suspension options if you use the EJ front knuckles. anything from full coilovers, to eibach sleeves and KYB GR2s. use some XT6 sway bars, whiteline makes poly bushings. steering is great with good tires. I love the way my car handles! the XT steering rack's quicker ratio helps some....I'm currently talking with L&E fab about making a quick ratio steering column......but that'll be some $$$. only thing you can't solve is the fact that the EA82s have the torsional rigidity of a wet noodle.....but, I think with a little bracing that could be drastically improved. but the other side of that coin, is they weigh less than any EJ series subaru. an EA82 car will easily weigh ~500lbs less than a similarly equipped (tranny, body style...) first gen legacy. you won't be able to please the computer entirely, but with some openECU and/or Enginuity tuning, you can get rid of the check engine lights, and compensate. the STi uses a fuel pump controller, and the best way to deal with this when swapping into a GC impreza body (for example) is to swap the whole STi pump unit into the tank. but the EJ pumps are in-tank, whereas the EA ones are in-line. so you'll have to get a bit creative. and you probably won't be able to use the fuel temp sensor, but that'll just throw a code. an EJ257 can go where an EJ22e was, and an EJ22e can go where an EA82 was. all the information for both swaps has been documented (I've helped or done a couple of each). just put the puzzle pieces together. many people like to buy early imprezas (only thing even close in weight to an EA82, and still heavier by a couple hundred pounds), and STi swap them. that's a similar amount of work. entire suspension, brakes, wiring, drivetrain, etc.

pkd still makes them (although has asked not to be referred to as his own company....just ozified or BYB is fine). http://www.ozified.com allied armament does the occasional group buy, but subaru parts aren't their #1 priority....check out the vendor forum for their stuff. and their site: http://alliedarmament.homestead.com/SubParts.html (you may notice a 'few' pictures of my light blue '88 wagon there...) and SJR, listed above. I say this to everyone interested in lifts. I've had 2 lifted EA82s (both '88s). one with a 3" BYB kit, and the other with a 4" AA kit. and I also ran an SJR rear diff shim on my blue wagon. as well as helped install an AA kit on an '87 EA81 hatch. and I modified my AA kit to mimic what SJR was doing with the front....MUUUUCH stronger! All 3 companies make a great product. high quality hardware, you won't ever have to worry about blocks collapsing or anything like that. BUT, the design varies quite a bit. The BYB kit is pretty simple, pretty much just blocks anywhere that the suspension attaches to the unibody. makes for very easy install, very little modification required. but sacrifices strength and clearance for it. the SJR kit requires the most work to install because you're messing with some of the geometry. BUT, as a result, is much stronger out on the trail. and the AA kit is somewhere between. leaving the rear trailing arm pivot up tight against the unibody (#1 weakness on the BYB kit), but still drops the leading rod brackets (I ripped the captive nuts out of the framerail about 4 times before changing it to the SJR design).

check out the ultimate subaru repair manual here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=54 will have the answers to most of your questions. I'd recommend just swapping for SPFI fuel injection from a later EA82. pretty simple swap, and will yield more power, better mileage, and better driveability. and yes, you can swap for rear disc brakes off of a turbo EA82. also a sweet upgrade!

no, there isn't a universal design for seat mounting. But, the basic idea hasn't changed much. so you may find that mounting seats from other cars won't be too difficult. might have to drill some new holes in the rails or seat frame.....but probably nothing too difficult. as for the parts, I haven't had too much trouble finding what I need. if used parts are acceptable, the wanted section here. otherwise local parts stores, dealer, or http://www.rockauto.com (they have pretty much anything you can think of, and pretty good prices too!). oh, and happy first post!!

best way is to find local insurance auctions. find a car that's been totaled, but is repairable. and look for something where most of the damage is in the back.