Numbchux

here's an idea I had today. he center bearing can be removed. so I wonder if you could put the carrier bracket from an EA82 shaft, onto an EJ shaft.....

that's only a bit worse than my loyale....which I consider virtually pristine. good find (well...maybe not for your part of the world....but I'm jealous!)

there's an ugly part? it all looks gorgeous to me! maybe you forgot to post the picture of the rust.

yea, my lazy carrier bracket mounting combined with the questionable condition of the bearing itself when I installed it has lead to a little noise and vibration. But that's been about 20k miles, mostly city, all with an EJ22e. I actually considered going to a one piece when I originally did the swap. but when I brought the driveshaft into a reputable driveline shop in the Twin Cities, they said they couldn't just cut out the center bearing/u-joint and weld in some new tube. they'd have to build a completely new shaft from scratch. They didn't look up specific parts, but he said it'd probably be in the $800-1k range. I laughed and left.....

holy 3-year-old thread batman!!

just the black ones.

I do.....somewhere.....I'll see if I can find them that doesn't really help me. the bushings have to be removed because the NA miata shock shafts don't have the narrower portion at the top for the bushing like the EA82 ones do. BUT, from that picture, it looks like the NB shocks do aswell.....

read the article. connect them with the car completely off, then turn it on without cranking. also, if you're getting 3 slow blinks. I think that means you've got the wrong connectors connected. that's what the D-check mode does. the basic check mode connectors are the black, single-pin ones.

I don't actually have the newer miata shock. but got a guy from the local AutoX forum who's going to sell me a pair cheap. so no direct comparison. I'm going to see if I can't find where I put my stock EA82s though so I can take some more comparison measurements and yes, the spring perch looks extremely goofy. what can I say.....mazda....

if you do go this route (not necessary for this project...but if you want to...), make sure you disconnect the pitch stopper too. and remember, the oil pan isn't a structural point. it'll support the engine and tranny, but if it's hung up on anything don't force it, or you might be looking for a new oil pan, or more.

AFAIK, trouble codes never have a zero in them.....so you may want to check again. here's decent write-up from legacy central....I found a better one a while back, but can't find it now. http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm EDIT: Found it! http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

make sure you replace the rubber grommets on the bolts and don't overtorque them when reinstalling. when I did it, I overtorqued, and a chunk of the cam case broke off and actually made the leak worse

yea, front struts didn't really every change much. the '03 legacy stuff I have sitting here is also virtually identical. the springs are cheap generic coilover sleeves for a GC impreza. used 'em on my 4-lug all-EA82 setup, and still using them on my goofy hybrid setup now. btw, just found the attached picture on ebay. this is of a NB ('99-'05) Miata front shock. I'm working on getting my hands on a pair of these.

pictures. didn't get a chance to take pics of the 4-lug hubs....but here's my XT6 stuff: and the rotor slips on over that: and the 4-lug hubs from a different source: you can see, they're very different!

I'm running an RX trans, and had the center diff locked in for this. yea, it's in St. Cloud IIRC, and put on by one of the offroad clubs. I see it posted on MN-Jeep every year

My car: Engine: '92 Legacy OBD I EJ22e Chassis: '92 Loyale Wagons Tranny: EA82 D/R FT4WD 5spd Other: Mrose Adapter Plate, OBX header, 5-lug swap, RS front brakes, 200SX rear calipers current project: Engine: '96 Impreza OBD II EJ22e Chassis: 1986 GL Wagon Tranny: EA82 D/R 5spd Other: Rear disc brakes, rguyver adapter plate

I think the rear mechanical LSD that really helps. I can easily get this thing into an axis spin.....tighter donuts than any RWD car. I just can't do it in a predictable-enough location to get it on video when I just have the camera propped up on a pylon :-\

no....it's 4WD with rear LSD why would you say RWD?

one word.....Perrin. it's been done, and it'll outrun 99% of the 4-cyl subarus on the face of the planet

it's very close. I know a couple guys running VW wheels on their subaru without a problem.

no, more like the stock subaru one isn't prone to failure like the cherokee is. and, the vast majority of the people putting any money into a power build on a subaru, has a turbo....which means different exhaust.

ok, I had forgotten that the EJ hubs do press into the bearings, and don't ride on the spindle like the EA/ER ones do. but then you're opening the axle "can". I mean, yes, the front track is the same....but is the rear? is there enough clearance in the EA trailing arm for an EJ axle to fit? I know a few local guys.....I'll see if I can scare up enough parts to try a few things.

I don't see how the bearing size and hub size are related. as there's a piece in between....the spindle. if you put EJ-sized bearings in an EA trailing arm, you might be able to put an EJ axle (has the spindle as part of the CV, like an EA front axle) through the bearing. assuming the track is the same. and the XT6 hub is drastically different than an EA82 hub! DRASTICALLY. I'll have the rear end of my wagon apart tomorrow.....I'll take pictures (and also of the 4-lug stuff sitting on the shelf in the shed)

I want to do it too.....but can't afford to buy a pile of donor transmissions. :-\ I also want to get my hands on an EJ D/R case to drop the whole thing into. and a front LSD....and........and.............. ugh

I was looking at my coworker's Mazda 6 today.....and just at a glance, the wheels look like they use much more offset than subaru ones. and the bolt pattern appears, at a glance, to be 5x114.3. could mean if you use that bolt circle, and mazda-fitment wheels, you may be able to get away with thicker spacers. more research on that front will be required. as to what material to be used. I think the question you want to ask there, is what crowd you're marketing this to. the offroad guys will care more about strength than rotating mass.....while the exact opposite is true (to a point....I'll keep a little weight to keep the wheel from falling off) of the street guys. any possibility of making some of each? GLoyale.....I LOVE the adapter bolting to the hub idea! that's brilliant. you could make the adapter hub-centric, and then bolt it on. just have to make sure there's clearance between the hub itself and the caliper.