Numbchux

now that I think about it....only the '85 and '86s had the rear gate piece. I broke out the rear window on the '85 pretty early on, so ended up using a loyale hatch. and the '86 is now running a hatch from an '88 for the same reason. I'm really not sure what's under it.

the EZ36 has the same outer dimensions as the EZ30. but Perrin did the swap before the 36 was released. it's an EZ30DR. also, the 440 hp number was on stock internals + low comp pistons. after that, they did a full bottom end build with rods, and valvetrain, cranked the boost and put down more than 600 before the turbo ran out of steam. too bad he sold it before really testing it's limits.

all 3 of my EA82s that came stock had the trim (the PoopenVagon didn't, but it had been heavily modified before I got it...), but the loyale didn't have the rear hatch part. I've removed it on all of them. they look great without. and it makes it much easier to securely attach a roof rack.

the internals are virtually identical. only difference is the lack of low range, bellhousing shape, and center diff (EJ one uses a VLSD, not fully locking). also, most EJ 5-speeds have a 4.111 axle ratio. so the gears would be slightly lower than the D/R in hi range, but won't be even remotely comparable to the low range gears. the speedo cable works exactly the same (as long as it actually has a cable)

from an '88 XT FSM...

why would you keep it FWD?! with an EJ257, even in stock form, you'll be pushing close to 300hp. Traction will be a huge issue.....heck, I hate driving my car in FWD with 120hp, even on nice sticky summer tires. Also, an older 5-speed will be hard pressed to hold up to that kind of power. at least upgrade to a WRX 5-speed, if not the STi 6-speed. and, as someone who has actually done it *ahem*, let me say that if you swap the whole dash/HVAC/etc, the wiring project is actually pretty simple, and the project quickly turns more mechanical than electrical. the hardest part is trying to get any usable information out of the '96 FSM diagrams. and, if you want to do it, you can always just pay someone to do the wiring modifications. there are a few companies out there who will do it. I can do it for a few hundred bucks, or you can send it off to the larger companies like East Coast Swappers or Garage Tuning and get it with a warranty and stuff for a grand or so. which, in a project like this, is a pretty small expense.

possible.....very much so. I'm doing the wiring for a guy who's doing an entire '05 WRX drivetrain swap into a '96 imp LX. the STi stuff wouldn't be all that much different. easy.....hardly.....but mostly just the wiring side, and mostly just the '96 side of that. as that newer FSM wiring diagrams are a breeze to read compared to the older ones. but take this advice. this being my second WRX -> GC swap project. buy a whole wrecked donor car. that way you know you have everything. and you'll be able to part out/sell the stuff you don't need. the first one I did was an '02 WRX into a '95 L. he had the whole donor car (IIRC the wrecked donor car cost ~$4k in his driveway), we did the whole swap: engine, tranny, interior, dash, etc. in about 2 weeks. the second one we started getting parts in July....and are hoping to have it running within the next week, but even that's looking grim :-\

I hope it's a crate full of EJ D/R tranny cases

did you get the drum off the other side? another good way, is to loosen the castle nut a bunch (not even finger tight....but definitely leave it on) and drive the car a bit (slow speeds. up and down the alley/driveway, something like that). the weight of the car will usually pop out the cone washer pretty easily.

here's an idea I had today. he center bearing can be removed. so I wonder if you could put the carrier bracket from an EA82 shaft, onto an EJ shaft.....

that's only a bit worse than my loyale....which I consider virtually pristine. good find (well...maybe not for your part of the world....but I'm jealous!)

there's an ugly part? it all looks gorgeous to me! maybe you forgot to post the picture of the rust.

yea, my lazy carrier bracket mounting combined with the questionable condition of the bearing itself when I installed it has lead to a little noise and vibration. But that's been about 20k miles, mostly city, all with an EJ22e. I actually considered going to a one piece when I originally did the swap. but when I brought the driveshaft into a reputable driveline shop in the Twin Cities, they said they couldn't just cut out the center bearing/u-joint and weld in some new tube. they'd have to build a completely new shaft from scratch. They didn't look up specific parts, but he said it'd probably be in the $800-1k range. I laughed and left.....

holy 3-year-old thread batman!!

just the black ones.

I do.....somewhere.....I'll see if I can find them that doesn't really help me. the bushings have to be removed because the NA miata shock shafts don't have the narrower portion at the top for the bushing like the EA82 ones do. BUT, from that picture, it looks like the NB shocks do aswell.....

read the article. connect them with the car completely off, then turn it on without cranking. also, if you're getting 3 slow blinks. I think that means you've got the wrong connectors connected. that's what the D-check mode does. the basic check mode connectors are the black, single-pin ones.

I don't actually have the newer miata shock. but got a guy from the local AutoX forum who's going to sell me a pair cheap. so no direct comparison. I'm going to see if I can't find where I put my stock EA82s though so I can take some more comparison measurements and yes, the spring perch looks extremely goofy. what can I say.....mazda....

if you do go this route (not necessary for this project...but if you want to...), make sure you disconnect the pitch stopper too. and remember, the oil pan isn't a structural point. it'll support the engine and tranny, but if it's hung up on anything don't force it, or you might be looking for a new oil pan, or more.

AFAIK, trouble codes never have a zero in them.....so you may want to check again. here's decent write-up from legacy central....I found a better one a while back, but can't find it now. http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm EDIT: Found it! http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

make sure you replace the rubber grommets on the bolts and don't overtorque them when reinstalling. when I did it, I overtorqued, and a chunk of the cam case broke off and actually made the leak worse

yea, front struts didn't really every change much. the '03 legacy stuff I have sitting here is also virtually identical. the springs are cheap generic coilover sleeves for a GC impreza. used 'em on my 4-lug all-EA82 setup, and still using them on my goofy hybrid setup now. btw, just found the attached picture on ebay. this is of a NB ('99-'05) Miata front shock. I'm working on getting my hands on a pair of these.

pictures. didn't get a chance to take pics of the 4-lug hubs....but here's my XT6 stuff: and the rotor slips on over that: and the 4-lug hubs from a different source: you can see, they're very different!

I'm running an RX trans, and had the center diff locked in for this. yea, it's in St. Cloud IIRC, and put on by one of the offroad clubs. I see it posted on MN-Jeep every year

My car: Engine: '92 Legacy OBD I EJ22e Chassis: '92 Loyale Wagons Tranny: EA82 D/R FT4WD 5spd Other: Mrose Adapter Plate, OBX header, 5-lug swap, RS front brakes, 200SX rear calipers current project: Engine: '96 Impreza OBD II EJ22e Chassis: 1986 GL Wagon Tranny: EA82 D/R 5spd Other: Rear disc brakes, rguyver adapter plate