Numbchux

I don't think that's the case. as a transfer case would spin the driveshaft the opposite direction. that's why the divorced tcased guys can use a subaru rear diff up front....

that is so strange. according to my parts quick reference guide (which has yet to be wrong....knock on wood). all leone/loyale's from 12/90 up have that same part number for the lower rad hose. there are a dozen radiator part numbers, and nothing listed about what's different, just different combinations of years, 4WD, AT, and turbo.... but there are only 3 lower rad hose numbers. -11/90 non-turbo. 12/90-, and AT Turbo '87-'90. and yes, the hose has a very distinct 'S' shape to it.

I'd just get the bolts at a hardware store as well...if not, I've got a pile of random metric bolts on the workbench in the basement from tearing apart a subaru trans. give me some measurements and I can probably send you some. as for the exhaust gaskets. I looked them up in my subaru quick reference guide. give him this: EA82: 44022GA330 or EA81 44023GA340 those are the header to engine gaskets. I have all the others listed too if you need...just let me know.

why? only difference is the radiator hose. just go to the parts store and get a rad hose for a loyale (mine's a '92). or subaru part # 45162GA020 The Loyale. I get 20% off parts (local club discount), and a new radiator from them was still $270. and that's still plastic end tanks etc.

bump stops.....no lift eh? no offense dude, but completely different situation. you're about 2 inches from true full compression. on my lifted rigs, I'd lift a wheel, and could have a guy or 2 go stand on my rear bumper, and compress the suspension on the one side enough to get me through something.

I always preferred the softer suspension for the rougher trails. and the stock springs are already too stiff to allow for full compression unless you're really loaded down (means less travel...) but....like I mentioned earlier. KYB GR2s, and Ground Control coilovers. if you do some searching, you could probably get the whole setup for ~$500...

I love PCI timing kits. had 3 of them on various cars. but I may just get the timing kit, and get the water pump and seals via my connection at the local subaru dealer. might save some money.

it is, but at the absolute highest those struts will allow. my winter tires are stock WRX wheels with 205/55r16s, and they fit easier.

you want a lift....and stiffer suspension? why? that is one extremely odd combination.

spacers = body lift I was referring to and, a strut/spring swap is 100,000,000,000,000,000x easier than an engine swap.

like GD said, on an EA81 length becomes an issue. but on an EA82. virtually any early EJ axle will work on the turbo trannies. it's the 23-spline N/A trannies that make things difficult and require FWD 5MT (IIRC....I can look up part numbers if anyone is interested) impreza axles.

well, an inch or 2 more clearance with just suspension = more stress.... if you're looking for the same, or lower, ride height and stiffer suspension components for some better handling. the options are limited. BUT, KYB does make their GR2s for EA82 cars. which are a bit stiffer than your average stock replacement shock/strut. and you can get a set of Ground Control adjustable coilovers for an early impreza in any spring rate (yours has 146 lb/in front, and 196lb/in rear). and you'll have fully adjustable ride height, and stiffer springs. IMHO some 200/250s would be a nice upgrade for a comfortable yet sporty ride. these can be had for $2-300... beyond that.....you'll need to upgrade to newer front suspension by converting the whole car to 5-lug. no small project, but if you want some really nice suspension.....100% worth it IMHO.

plans/checklist x '96 EJ22e from an impreza (that's getting an '05 WRX drivetrain/dash). timing belt/water pump/main seals x radiator x clutch bumpers corner markers passenger side door mirror (you may notice in the pics....it's held on with silicone) x rear discs front brake pads wheel bearing seals fix the surface rust on the hatch fixed body panels (one x = I have the parts. 2 = installed.) and......GO

so, some of you may have seen the '86 GL Wagon I had listed in the FS section. well, dhise has claimed it, and hopefully over the next month, I'll be working out the gremlins, and turning it from a POS into a sweet car. well, went to pick it up, and as I was leaving to drive it home, the HH cable (which I didn't know wasn't hooked up) meandered it's way over to the + battery cable.....and did this: yikes, minor setback. well, I've got another battery.....as I'm driving up here into Duluth, I'm coasting down the big hill into town, and look down and see this: stupid vacuum leaks....darn engine won't stay running. that's ok....it's all coming out anyway. I had it idling (@ about 400 rpms) in my driveway today....and though, boy, that things spinning so slow, I could stop that clutch fan. so I used a stick to stop it, and took this: got a few dents, but nothing serious: not really scratched at all, so I think those should pop right out. if not....I've got more body panels from my '85. mmmm.....peeling clear coat. I think it was overheated bigtime (which would explain why it had a burned valve when my buddy bought it a couple years ago), and the overflow tank boiled over.... but nothing a little sandpaper and an afternoon with an HVLP gun can't fix.

I'm currently running stock struts with the same adjustable springs that I had on with 4-lug. running Miata REARS (the shorter ones) in the rear, and 92 FWD Legacy fronts. with 215/45r17 tires on +48 17x8 Rota's with about 1/2" of preload on the springs in the rear. virtually zero rubbing with these stiff springs (400lb/in in the rear), but if I go any softer, I'd run the Miata fronts and jack up the ride height.

yep, pretty common. you can mix and match the struts and springs for the ride height you want. the outback's are all taller, so by using the struts and springs from the outback you'll get the outback ride height (with better ground clearance because the outback has a slight body lift).

most of them are, but, like he said, foresters and (maybe...I'm not entirely sure) later outbacks got 4.444's not really. in first gen legacies, they all had the same tire size, and for the most part, they all had 4.111s and the turbo's got the 3.90s.

future reference....'Taller' gears implies lower #. as in swapping 4.444 -> 3.90 would be swapping for taller gears. you need 'shorter' gears to conteract the bigger tires but I know what you mean. and yes, I know a couple people have done it. with stock sized (stock impreza anyway) tires, you loose alot of freeway legs and end up running high rpms. BUT, with your oversized tires, that'll be counteracted. as long as the 1-5 gears are comparable (not like the EA82 3.9 trannies compared to the 3.7 turbo ones), the lower gears will be perfect.

this link was posted already....but I'm posting it again, as there's no reason to look further http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59064 ball seats, very cheap, and allow you to safely use stock lug nuts on pug wheels.

yep, the lap belts work a little better, so they're harder to trick into locking. so it's quite possible that yours are still very functional. we have very steep hills here in Downtown Duluth, and that's the only time I can trick them into locking. and yes, if you find a donor car (junkyard or partout) with the manual belts, just pull them off.....they use all the same mounts and stuff. no drilling/tapping/fabricating required. the trim takes a little creativity....but is definitely doable. heres a couple pics from the middle of the conversion. where I'd only done one side... automatic: manual:

the pictures I posted were from performanceradiator.com (thanks CCR for the link). they have different part numbers for them, and have the correct picture associated with them. and are less then half the cost of an OEM one from the dealer (yes....I checked ) calebz. that is weird. it's hard to tell from radiator part numbers, as there are a bunch of different ones for ones with an MT/AT, turbo/NA etc. but everything from 1990+ has the same lower rad hose listed....

when MorganM lifted the PoopenVagon (5+ years ago...and many thousands of miles here in MN...), he removed the A/C and PS. he simply removed the pump and lines. didn't cap the lines, didn't run them in a loop or anything. it's still going just fine (my buddy now beats the crap out of it at his farm....never sees the street, only offroad abuse) yes, in theory it's lubricated by the fluid, but in use, IMHO the inner tie rod boots are more important to the prolonged life of the rack! also, I don't think the PS pump really robs almost any power at all. and the pump and lines don't really weigh anything (the A/C crap, however....yikes!). so, you guys talking about the XT6 rack.....I thought it was the 4-cyl XT rack that had the quicker ratio. but I got one of those from a junkyard....and noticed virtually zero difference.

nope, I've got tons (well.....enough) of clearance. I think I could easily go up to 235mm wide tires before worrying about that with these wheels.

need to be going downhill to reproduce the forces you'd be experiencing during a crash. it's extremely hard to reproduce on flat ground, but just about every time I pulled up to a stop sign while going down a steep duluth hill....it would lock up on me (don't need to be pulling hard on the belt either..). as for converting to manuals. it's nothing too difficult. all the mounts are there, just need to find a donor car that's the same. pull the b- and a-pillar trim off, remove the auto seatbelt track, remove lap belt retractor on the floor, install manual belt in it's place. and you'll also need the buckle, as it's different. and the all the trim is different aswell. not a very good description, but it's pretty self explanatory once you see how it's all put together.