Numbchux

I did....actually. but, those were taken in the alley, and notice the puddles/mud that has accumulated there. it only takes a few trips before it gets filthy again. once I get the rear spats on (hopefully this weekend) I'll give it a good bath, and go take some really sweet pics before I have to take the rota's off and put on the snow shoes.

good way to get hung....you're better off with nothing the belt's have a 'sensor' that is designed only to lock the belts in the case of a collision....the shoulder ones actually don't work as well, which is why you can trick them into locking. my lap belts used to (until I ditched the whole setup and converted to manual belts!) lock up on the steep hills here in Duluth.

finally.....215/45r17 Kumho Ecsta's (thanks to the Discount tire sale a couple weeks ago) on 17x8 +48 Rota Torques. Car is lowered quite a bit, and these don't rub on the fender at all in the front (they hit the framerail at full lock....), and only required a little rolling in the back:

nope, the lower output is different. and makes the EJ swap much simpler! loyale: GL/DL etc.:

looking to get a new radiator. and I need to get a loyale one (output comes straight out, not the upward angle like the older ones). I've seen radiator barn and radiator express.....both have the older style pictured, even for the loyales. I sent them an email, but am looking for other options.

looks good....except for the bra :-\ those are the same tires I just got (although I traded them for a set of ultragrips on WRX wheels...)

you sure it's EA? because with those specs, the only difference would be the bellhousing.... or, it's not factory, and somebody slapped an EJ AWD center onto a FT4WD box.

+1 yes, 18-24" is possible with the TTB. but it's easy with a solid axle. fabrication is simpler, axle is stronger, lower gears are possible, lockers are cheaper, etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. it's a decent option, but IMHO, not the best option. especially with the amount of body lift to get the whole suspension setup to a point where you could fit 35's with enough room for that much travel....

because the EJ series joints are tougher than the EA ones, and can take the angle better.

I haven't made the cable yet, so I haven't actually plugged it into the car. but if you just double click on the b10scan.com file in windows XP, and it loaded in a window.....

as I said above. this is only true if the only difference between the RX trans and EJ trans was the axle ratio. but that's not the case. the EA82t's got much shorter 1-5 gears (5th in the RX case is 0.871, whereas 5th in the legacy 4.111 case is 0.780), so despite the drastic change in axle ratio, the 4.111 trans will actually result in lower rpm's on the highway. but they got the same first gear, so 1st hi in the RX case is taller than 1st in the legacy case. gary, an upgrade from a 14" wheel to a 16" wheel is entirely independent of the point that Tom was making about tire size. while using a larger wheel with the same outer diameter of the tire will usually result in less rotating mass and therefore better mpg (probably what you're experiencing), baccaruda's wagon is lifted, and running substantially taller tires, which has a completely different effect on the mileage. also, lower rpm's does not necessarily mean better mileage. obviously cruising at 6k rpms in 3rd is going to be worse than cruising at 3400 in 5th (both are about 77 mph in a 4.111 5MT legacy). BUT, similarly, shifting into 5th, and lugging along at 27mph turning 1200 rpms, the engine is going to be working very hard, and getting much worse mileage than if you'd stayed in 3rd and been turning 2100 there's a sweet spot. and the EA82t 0.871 5th gear is far to short to find that sweet spot with the EJ22 (unless you spend a lot of time at 50-55mph, which is about 2500 rpms) but, I'm also not a fan of the EA82 N/A and EJ gears without a low range. just too much space between the gears for city driving. of course, there is no way to get the taller 5th, dual range, and FT4WD/AWD without making a hybrid trans....

AFAIK, fuel 'timing' is the same. making the injector fire later won't help, because the intake valve will be closed..... the only difference is the ignition timing. you just make that plug not spark for that cycle until the exhaust valve is open. this would actually be quite difficult with a distributer. as by the time the exhaust valve is open, the distributer rotor has moved beyond that cylinder's point on the cap.....and thus, it won't fire. you'd need a way to intercept the ignition signal between the disty and the plug, and then fire that plug a bit later. I don't see a way to do it while keeping a disty if you go megasquirt or other standalone, you could probably harvest the coil pack and ignitor from an early EJ engine, and hook that up without too much difficulty though...

blah blah blah....I bet it's not as loud as the legacy. and I'll be driving that to the show on Sunday. maiden Brat voyage!!! glad to hear it's running!

this is what I tell people all the time. the trannies are tough if you don't beat the crap out of them. but there are those who can destroy WRX trannies on stock power. I think the best example, is reddevil (formerly the supercharged 2.2 wagon, now twin-charged). he's run 300awhp through a stock legacy 5MT (virtually identical internals to the EA82 5MT), and 12 sec 1/4 miles. now that he's thoroughly above 300awhp, he's starting to break them pretty severely.....

I just found this on legacy central... http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/b10scan/ way cool!

I've seen some goofy under-hood duct work to get air to an IC without having a scoop, and always heard bad things afterwards. you could see about getting a small FMIC to mount where the A/C condensor goes that might look stockish....

the different engine code is a pretty dead giveaway. EJ stuff is interchangeable between other EJ engines btw, SOHC EJ engines have the spark plugs in virtually the exact same place as the EA's.

that would be true, were the 1-5 gears the same. unfortunately, the EA82t trannies (not just the RX D/R versions) got such low gears, that despite the substantially taller axle ratio, they still turn noticeably higher rpms in 5th. hard to say whether the mileage would change. as lower rpm does not directly translate to higher mileage. BUT, you'd definitely see lower rpm with N/A gears (IMHO the XT6 trans would be the perfect bolt-in solution. same 1-5 gears as the 4.111, but with a 3.9 axle ratio, still has the fully lockable center diff, and won't require driveshaft or linkage modifications to work.)

what size tires are you running? stock WRX (205/55)? you should also trim the rear spindles so you can get the center caps on the rear wheels! but looks awesome. great to see another successful Franken EA82

I don't have a pic, but I have the parts...why? that's the one part that doesn't get used in an EA82 application

yea, that's about right. it's pretty close. that was my original idea, which is why I bought those. but I found out it's not a very close fit, and the aftermarket selection is only slightly better than the EA82 stuff (couple jdm sti things, and tein coilovers....), which is why I kept searching. but yes, the BE/BH legacy stuff could be used about as easily as the miata stuff. BUT!!! WJM just sent me a pm about this. apparently he's tried this. BE legacy stuff with a custom solid upper mount. and it became apparent that the top of the shock needs to pivot some. and by removing that rubber bushing, you're making the shock rod flex. soooo.....any ideas how to allow for some pivot there, without using the bushing. I was thinking just slot the 2 holes where the upper mount attaches to the car, so it can all be angled a bit towards the front. it wouldn't eliminate the problem entirely, but it would lessen it.

can.....open.....worms........EVERYWHERE!!!! yes, sti DCCD (driver controlled center diff) would be sweet. BUT, 6MT internals are not interchangeable with 5MT stuff. 6MT rear axle ratio is 3.9, and I believe the transfer gear makes the front a 3.545 or something like that. and the stock DCCD controller needs the STi harness in it's entirety to work, or you'll be buying an aftermarket one. the cost of using a DCCD is on a different planet than having a 4.444 EA pinion gear

1. either engine will work. a phase I, OBD I EJ22e would be the simplest, and probably cheapest (you could get an entire donor car, so you know the condition of the engine before messing with it.....for less than a grand, today. give it some time, 2-300). but a 2.5 would be nice too. beware the DOHC version......head gasket issues. I would not go turbo. extra complexity/sacrificed torque curve = lame for a lifted rig. 2. I know nothing about a 5MT DR swap into an EA81. but I know there are lots of threads about it. probably in the USRM as well. yes, it'll hold the power, as long as you're not wailing on it (WOT clutch dumps, RWD drifting, etc. etc......be smart, some people can kill WRX trannies with stock power) 3. I don't have any pugs.....sorry. but if you need some 13" steelies. I've got a couple dozen...... 4. good choice. the genuine BFG's are a little on the spendy side. but nice tires. I'd also call that the limit of the largest tire to easily run on <6" lift. those calculate to 28.8" tall. 5. you're options are custom, ozified, or SJR. EA81s have a tougher suspension design, but I still firmly believe that both companies make high quality kits (blocks won't collapse or bend). But the BYB one sacrifices some strength in design to accommodate installation ease and cost, while the SJR one is a bit more spendy, but a much tougher design. 6. SJR, and rguyver: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77490 I should edit the write-up 7. the linkage needs to be lengthened. AFAIK it's not too difficult. the BYB kit will come with one pre-lengthened. SJR might be able to do it for you, but it's not included. 8. again, something the BYB kit will come with, but you'll have to source elsewhere otherwise. I'm 95% sure (it's been a year since I helped install my buddies EA81 kit), that the only one that needs lengthening is the line that goes from the body to the rear trailing arms. you might be able to just make a short extension from hardlines..... 9. you'll have to be creative about the linkage. it's real close to reaching, but not quite. although if you're swapping to an EA82 5MT, it might work fine (did on both my EA82s.....but the EA81 kits I've worked with both required some bending) 10. again, something I don't remember from the EA81 kits. I don't think we had to mess with them.....with my EA82 kits, I just had to shorten the lower one. 11. should all reach, most of them run horizontally, so the overall length difference is pretty small. you may have to re-route the speedo cable under the pitch stopper....but other than that. 12. the pitch stopper. should be lengthened. again, pretty sure the BYB kit comes with a longer one. pretty much anybody who owns a welder could do it. I've run a couple cars without one without any noticeable negative effects. the answers to almost all of your questions are already posted. most of them either in the offroad FAQ, or in the USRM. I should've just told you to use the search function.....but I'm bored and can't sleep.....

2WD EA82s sit lower in the rear because the bracket where the bottom of the shock mounts to the trailing arm is mounted 2" lower. no easy way to get that ride height and keep 4WD.

not a big deal. but the question comes up in the offroad forum every couple months "I heard you could use 4.111 axle gears in a D/R tranny!". so I just wanted to clear it up ASAP. Sushi...I've never even heard of Atlas. I'll ask a couple of the local guys. maybe Morgan's dealt with them.