Numbchux

like GD said, on an EA81 length becomes an issue. but on an EA82. virtually any early EJ axle will work on the turbo trannies. it's the 23-spline N/A trannies that make things difficult and require FWD 5MT (IIRC....I can look up part numbers if anyone is interested) impreza axles.

well, an inch or 2 more clearance with just suspension = more stress.... if you're looking for the same, or lower, ride height and stiffer suspension components for some better handling. the options are limited. BUT, KYB does make their GR2s for EA82 cars. which are a bit stiffer than your average stock replacement shock/strut. and you can get a set of Ground Control adjustable coilovers for an early impreza in any spring rate (yours has 146 lb/in front, and 196lb/in rear). and you'll have fully adjustable ride height, and stiffer springs. IMHO some 200/250s would be a nice upgrade for a comfortable yet sporty ride. these can be had for $2-300... beyond that.....you'll need to upgrade to newer front suspension by converting the whole car to 5-lug. no small project, but if you want some really nice suspension.....100% worth it IMHO.

plans/checklist x '96 EJ22e from an impreza (that's getting an '05 WRX drivetrain/dash). timing belt/water pump/main seals x radiator x clutch bumpers corner markers passenger side door mirror (you may notice in the pics....it's held on with silicone) x rear discs front brake pads wheel bearing seals fix the surface rust on the hatch fixed body panels (one x = I have the parts. 2 = installed.) and......GO

so, some of you may have seen the '86 GL Wagon I had listed in the FS section. well, dhise has claimed it, and hopefully over the next month, I'll be working out the gremlins, and turning it from a POS into a sweet car. well, went to pick it up, and as I was leaving to drive it home, the HH cable (which I didn't know wasn't hooked up) meandered it's way over to the + battery cable.....and did this: yikes, minor setback. well, I've got another battery.....as I'm driving up here into Duluth, I'm coasting down the big hill into town, and look down and see this: stupid vacuum leaks....darn engine won't stay running. that's ok....it's all coming out anyway. I had it idling (@ about 400 rpms) in my driveway today....and though, boy, that things spinning so slow, I could stop that clutch fan. so I used a stick to stop it, and took this: got a few dents, but nothing serious: not really scratched at all, so I think those should pop right out. if not....I've got more body panels from my '85. mmmm.....peeling clear coat. I think it was overheated bigtime (which would explain why it had a burned valve when my buddy bought it a couple years ago), and the overflow tank boiled over.... but nothing a little sandpaper and an afternoon with an HVLP gun can't fix.

I'm currently running stock struts with the same adjustable springs that I had on with 4-lug. running Miata REARS (the shorter ones) in the rear, and 92 FWD Legacy fronts. with 215/45r17 tires on +48 17x8 Rota's with about 1/2" of preload on the springs in the rear. virtually zero rubbing with these stiff springs (400lb/in in the rear), but if I go any softer, I'd run the Miata fronts and jack up the ride height.

yep, pretty common. you can mix and match the struts and springs for the ride height you want. the outback's are all taller, so by using the struts and springs from the outback you'll get the outback ride height (with better ground clearance because the outback has a slight body lift).

most of them are, but, like he said, foresters and (maybe...I'm not entirely sure) later outbacks got 4.444's not really. in first gen legacies, they all had the same tire size, and for the most part, they all had 4.111s and the turbo's got the 3.90s.

future reference....'Taller' gears implies lower #. as in swapping 4.444 -> 3.90 would be swapping for taller gears. you need 'shorter' gears to conteract the bigger tires but I know what you mean. and yes, I know a couple people have done it. with stock sized (stock impreza anyway) tires, you loose alot of freeway legs and end up running high rpms. BUT, with your oversized tires, that'll be counteracted. as long as the 1-5 gears are comparable (not like the EA82 3.9 trannies compared to the 3.7 turbo ones), the lower gears will be perfect.

this link was posted already....but I'm posting it again, as there's no reason to look further http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59064 ball seats, very cheap, and allow you to safely use stock lug nuts on pug wheels.

yep, the lap belts work a little better, so they're harder to trick into locking. so it's quite possible that yours are still very functional. we have very steep hills here in Downtown Duluth, and that's the only time I can trick them into locking. and yes, if you find a donor car (junkyard or partout) with the manual belts, just pull them off.....they use all the same mounts and stuff. no drilling/tapping/fabricating required. the trim takes a little creativity....but is definitely doable. heres a couple pics from the middle of the conversion. where I'd only done one side... automatic: manual:

the pictures I posted were from performanceradiator.com (thanks CCR for the link). they have different part numbers for them, and have the correct picture associated with them. and are less then half the cost of an OEM one from the dealer (yes....I checked ) calebz. that is weird. it's hard to tell from radiator part numbers, as there are a bunch of different ones for ones with an MT/AT, turbo/NA etc. but everything from 1990+ has the same lower rad hose listed....

when MorganM lifted the PoopenVagon (5+ years ago...and many thousands of miles here in MN...), he removed the A/C and PS. he simply removed the pump and lines. didn't cap the lines, didn't run them in a loop or anything. it's still going just fine (my buddy now beats the crap out of it at his farm....never sees the street, only offroad abuse) yes, in theory it's lubricated by the fluid, but in use, IMHO the inner tie rod boots are more important to the prolonged life of the rack! also, I don't think the PS pump really robs almost any power at all. and the pump and lines don't really weigh anything (the A/C crap, however....yikes!). so, you guys talking about the XT6 rack.....I thought it was the 4-cyl XT rack that had the quicker ratio. but I got one of those from a junkyard....and noticed virtually zero difference.

nope, I've got tons (well.....enough) of clearance. I think I could easily go up to 235mm wide tires before worrying about that with these wheels.

need to be going downhill to reproduce the forces you'd be experiencing during a crash. it's extremely hard to reproduce on flat ground, but just about every time I pulled up to a stop sign while going down a steep duluth hill....it would lock up on me (don't need to be pulling hard on the belt either..). as for converting to manuals. it's nothing too difficult. all the mounts are there, just need to find a donor car that's the same. pull the b- and a-pillar trim off, remove the auto seatbelt track, remove lap belt retractor on the floor, install manual belt in it's place. and you'll also need the buckle, as it's different. and the all the trim is different aswell. not a very good description, but it's pretty self explanatory once you see how it's all put together.

I did....actually. but, those were taken in the alley, and notice the puddles/mud that has accumulated there. it only takes a few trips before it gets filthy again. once I get the rear spats on (hopefully this weekend) I'll give it a good bath, and go take some really sweet pics before I have to take the rota's off and put on the snow shoes.

good way to get hung....you're better off with nothing the belt's have a 'sensor' that is designed only to lock the belts in the case of a collision....the shoulder ones actually don't work as well, which is why you can trick them into locking. my lap belts used to (until I ditched the whole setup and converted to manual belts!) lock up on the steep hills here in Duluth.

finally.....215/45r17 Kumho Ecsta's (thanks to the Discount tire sale a couple weeks ago) on 17x8 +48 Rota Torques. Car is lowered quite a bit, and these don't rub on the fender at all in the front (they hit the framerail at full lock....), and only required a little rolling in the back:

nope, the lower output is different. and makes the EJ swap much simpler! loyale: GL/DL etc.:

looking to get a new radiator. and I need to get a loyale one (output comes straight out, not the upward angle like the older ones). I've seen radiator barn and radiator express.....both have the older style pictured, even for the loyales. I sent them an email, but am looking for other options.

looks good....except for the bra :-\ those are the same tires I just got (although I traded them for a set of ultragrips on WRX wheels...)

you sure it's EA? because with those specs, the only difference would be the bellhousing.... or, it's not factory, and somebody slapped an EJ AWD center onto a FT4WD box.

+1 yes, 18-24" is possible with the TTB. but it's easy with a solid axle. fabrication is simpler, axle is stronger, lower gears are possible, lockers are cheaper, etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. it's a decent option, but IMHO, not the best option. especially with the amount of body lift to get the whole suspension setup to a point where you could fit 35's with enough room for that much travel....

because the EJ series joints are tougher than the EA ones, and can take the angle better.

I haven't made the cable yet, so I haven't actually plugged it into the car. but if you just double click on the b10scan.com file in windows XP, and it loaded in a window.....