Numbchux

yep, the XT6 trans uses the same spline count as the FT4WD 4-cyl trannies it is a pretty minor change. no way would I put lower gears in a turbo EA82 trans. the 1-5 gears are already rediculously low. but the XT6 version got the same taller 1-5 gears and shorter axle ratio as a PT4WD EA82 trans, but with a FT4WD center oh man. more misleading info. 4.111 and 4.444 axle ratios are not possible unless using an EJ AWD center diff. front diff and ring gear are interchangeable. but the pinion is not.

yea, the EJ D/R trans isn't all that special. only difference is the bell housing. you could make an identical trans with an EA bellhousing by combining the front half of the case, low range and 1-R-2 gearset from an RX trans with the 3-5 gearset, center diff/housing, and front diff (pinion and ring gear aswell) from an EJ one. that would get you the lower axle ratio, and you could put the 1.59:1 low range gearset in there aswell (although you'd probably have to modify the ring gear to clear the low range gears), but you'd lose the locking center diff.

the driven shaft and pinion shaft are one piece on a PT4WD trans, and 2 pieces (one inside the other) on a FT4WD one. so no, not interchangeable. XT6s, however, got a 3.9:1 FT4WD trannies. you could use the pinion gear out of one of them (or the whole trans...). rear axles are identical either way. so an EA82 3.7:1 rear diff is a direct swap with a 3.9:1 one.

continued working on the fluid replacement in the struts.... the hole is very shallow, so in order to cut threads, I had to cut the tip off of the tap: but managed to get some nice threads cut anyway: they don't quite seal, so I'm probably going to have to use some teflon tape or something.....but got fluid in 2 of them, and started on a 3rd....

an ER27 swap is similar power to an EJ22. but much more work (physically bigger engine), and still has the crappy 2 tbelts that make the EA82 a POS.

well....in the interest of continuing to help my fellow USMB'ers out.....MORE PICTURES: a 7/8" hole saw, drill, and air grinder, and I did this: (the cable isn't attached to anything on the other end, so it isn't sitting quite how it will. and has to come back out. but you get the idea)

a question also answered in the write-up.

it's extremely common on big power new-gen guys (I can think of 4 local cars putting 400awhp+ running blow through). BUT, the only point is so you can run a BOV instead of a BPV. which, at anything less than about 20psi, means nothing but a loud "pssshhhh" sound when you let off the throttle. zero performance gains whatsoever.

yep, that's mentioned in the write-up. you'll need a different throwout bearing to run the EA81 trans with the EA82 clutch kit, but other than that, no problem.

as mentioned, the early ABS systems don't work terribly well.... it would be quite difficult. but not impossible. 5 lug swap using legacy front stuff would make the front end quite simple. but the rear would still be very complex. you'd probably have to put the EJ backing plates on for mounting the sensor. and find a way to mount the tone wheel to the XT6 hub. then replumb all the hardlines to the abs pump. probably have to swap the master cylinder. and then wire it all. which would probably be almost as big a job as the engine control wiring. I'm going out of my way to disable it on my '94 LGT. it comes on when it shouldn't, and when you're in really nasty situations, you just lock up all 4 wheels, and the car just assumes you're stopped (newer systems can tell if the wheels stop unnaturally fast, and therefore know that you're not stopped). IMHO, good tires are a much more reliable way to insure stopping ability then ABS.

they're virtually the same. the XT6 version is a bit lighter, and therefore preferable for street use. but yes, the clutch kits are interchangeable.

it is stickied in the retrofitting section. and it is in the USRM. and yes, I compiled it... it's an awesome start. the wiring will be a bit different, and more complicated (but not impossible). mounting the WRX trans will be the same as any other EJ-series one, but using a hydraulic clutch would be near impossible in an EA82.

that's the way to do it. you will see power gains. and it is pretty straightforward. swap the 1.8 intake mani on the 2.2 shortblock and heads, and install as normal.

went cruisin around town looking for cool places to take pictures.....and really only got one worth showing: then came home and started drilling more holes in the driveshaft tunnel (buddy brought the ebrake cable bracket to me yesterday...): and I also got some aluminum chassis reinforcement pieces. these are fender braces for a GC impreza. I'm going to find a way to mount them up on the loyale oh yea, and the brakes are amazing!!

yea....they're hot. the RE92s kinda scare me though.

hmmmmm.....

a custom pinion definitely could be made. BUT, as phiz said.....the fabrication would need to be incredibly precise. and I just don't think the cost required would justify the minimal gains

or put the slushbox on the bottom of a lake where it belongs, and swap it for a real trans getting rid of the drivetrain loss of an auto would give alot more gains then regearing said auto.

only thing unique about those, are the bellhousings. they have the same EJ non-locking center diff as any other EJ AWD box.

I don't think it exists....but it could definitely be made (but probably not for cheap). as mentioned, the only way to do it without using a custom made pinion shaft, is to use the EJ-series center diff (which means no center locker!). you'd have to sacrifice at least 2 trannies....maybe 3 (it's possible that the PT4WD pinion is not removable from the output shaft in the trans. maning you'd need the output shaft from a FT4WD trans, but those only have the 1.196 low range, which would defeat the purpose of the whole thing.....so you'd have to sacrifice a PT4WD DR trans for the 1.592 low range gearset........). and all only for a final crawl ratio change from the stock 22:1 up to a 23.2:1. not at all worth it.....IMO this, however, is not true. the pinion shaft is quite easily removed from the output shaft, just need a vice, an impact wrench, and a 27mm socket. assuming, as previously mentioned, that they're separable on a PT4WD box....

^ what he said. the springs or struts alone will yield about 1.5" of lift. both at once will yield about 3....

hi-rise is australia based. you can get them here in the US. but the shipping cost makes it muuuuch more expensive than any of the US companies.....and not any better.

PoorMansImpreza requested I take these measurements for him....and I thought I'd make them public for anyone who wants to make their own brackets. all 5 holes are exactly 10 mm across. to ensure accuracy, I always measured (with a caliper) from the closest edges of the holes. so in order to place the center correctly, add 5mm to reach the center of the hole. also, the 2 caliper bracket mounts are both 42mm from the center hole and 85mm apart (measured the same way).

final update for today (time to go to work...) bearings and brakes in the rear are completely done. well....sort of.....just noticed a couple of the studs on the other XT6 hub are screwed up....so it'll have to come off.....but the rotors and lines are in. both modified spindles are in. so....another couple pics: and so begins project: custom dampening: now.....if only it would stop raining in my garage

there are only a handful of companies on the planet that make lifts for them.....so finding one local is going to be difficult. BUT. SJR makes an awesome product. very tough (both in construction and design). and less than $700. his requires a bit more work on the installation side. modifying stuff etc. but is the toughest design.... http://www.sjrlift.com and, there's BYB. extremely tough lift. but not so much on the design, although much better for an EA81 than an EA82. BYB/ozified will be by far the easiest install, and the most complete kit. http://www.ozified.com