Numbchux

GD posted this link in another thread, and I couldn't find it anywhere else: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=275 small progress so far this morning: rear caliper paint is dry (the '02 RS stuff I have was painted red by the PO.....so I thought I'd match the rear) and, I trimmed the tip off the rear spindles to the Rota Centercaps will fit (notice in the pics with the wheel on....there's no center cap....):

problem? I see no problem. getting adjustable trailing arms (which, btw, don't look like they'll have enough adjustment to fully recenter the wheel) is about as important a part of this project as putting an intercooler on an N/A car. the setup you have listed won't yield you much lift over stock. IIRC forester XT springs are comparable length to an impreza. but I could be wrong there. even with just forester springs on your stock struts, you're only looking at ~1-1.5" of lift over stock.

stock miata. will be replacing with KYB AGX's for a miata when the funds become available. update...got one rear wheel bearing removed, cleaned, and repacked. got the new seals in, spindle in, and hub/rotor on. so I thought I'd mount a wheel and take a few pics:

:confused: how can a 3.0l have less torque than a 2.5l :confused: I've never driven one myself, so I don't know. but that concept hurts my brain maybe because they were all mated to 4EATs in heavy cars. the SVX doesn't feel like a terribly quick car in stock form, but an EG33 powered 5MT GC impreza is almost scary fast (got to ride in one of those a couple weeks ago)!

well, you can stuff a little extra grease in there with the bearings still in the knuckles. but that probably won't help much. you really should remove and clean the bearings. new seals aren't too expensive. even from the dealer (you need 4.....and they're only $2-3 each). SOA part numbers are 906250018 for the inner one, and 906250015 for the outer.

if you've already got the engine bay space.....go EG33!

only the '96-'99 outbacks will work. after that, the rear suspension was changed completely. if you get the whole assembly (strut, spring, top-mount). it'll save you some labor, and give you the max lift. probably cost you a bit more, but if you're getting them from a junkyard, you may be glad not to have to disassemble everything in the yard

I'll see what I can do. the size of the center hole will be easy.....but to accurately measure the location of the 3 mounting holes will be very difficult..... got a couple boxes this evening.... inside: every wheel bearing seal for the entire car (XT trailing arms, and legacy knuckles), the EA82 rear wheel bearing socket (smaller, non-Subaru box), one lug stud (there's one missing from my XT6 hubs), and a full set (20) of brand-new acorn style lug nuts. I love our MNSubaru discount at the local dealer

yea, but the ER27 doesn't fit in the place of a 4-cyl either. the EZ motors DO. I too have been contemplating doing an H6 swap using an EZ series. although given the news on NASIOC that the Link G3 will soon be able to decode the CAS signal for the EZ30DR.....I may go that route.

sounds easy, but even making it run without a dash would be a large project.

yep, outback struts will probably be your ticket. bigger tires won't work too well without a little added ride height. they don't have to be new KYB outback struts, anything for/from an outback will do. and IIRC they didn't start until '97. springs are optional, but will add a bit more ride height. stock tire for an outback is 205/70r15. so with outback suspension, that would be a nice step up (2" overall height), and an easy fit.

AH HA. yea, I highly doubt that a subaru air shock would yield any more travel than a coilover one....

the handbrake handle mounting is pretty easy. the legacy handle sits lower than the loyale, but a quick notch in the center console, and it fits fine. the mounting holes are completely different. but I just drilled holes in the driveshaft tunnel, and bought new bolts with nylock nuts to put on the bottom. and yes, I know it's not a true short shifter....but I'm actually not that concerned with the shifter throw.....I'm more concerned with my hand vs. the radio issue

just looked in my '89 FSM. and a 5MT 4WD GL wagon (wagons being the heaviest) has a curb weight of 2615. and the 3AT 4WD versions only weighing 15lbs more than that. but having moved both a 3AT and a DR 5MT, they must be on a diet elsewhere....cause that tranny weighs alot more than 15lb extra!! sedan being the lightest at 2450, with the 3-door close behind at 2505 I just noticed, the 4AT GL-10 turbowagon has a curb weight of 2900 lbs! with the SR FT4WD 5MT turbo at only 2790.....huh

3.9->4.111 change is pretty small, in all reality. an RX FT4WD D/R basically allows you to switch from 3.70 -> 4.444 on the fly, and you really only notice that in the higher gears, where it just gives you short freeway legs.

2700 lb loyale? wow, is that with a full tank, 5 passengers, and a spare engine in the back seriously though, that does sound heavy.... compared to other AWD cars though, it's pretty light. I've been driving my dad's '94 LGT for about a month.....and my god is that thing slow in comparison

13" of travel with air shocks......with subaru air shocks? per corner? 13" of travel would eat a CV axle alive! not to mention the fact that the vast majority of air shocks ever made now leak

some of you may remember MorganM here in MN. he was the owner/builder of the black '88 EA82 wagon "PoopenVagon" that I had for about 6 months. he sold it to get a sammy. his was in rough shape, so it's been slow, BUT, some engine tinkering, YJ leaf springs, and 31s: I dunno....real low range, real solid axles, open top.....and depending on the initial purchase price, pretty cheap.

could be.....I've got one apart in the basement, and 1st might be different, but it's hard to tell. I think it's just a result of wear. cause I've had some trannies that did whine a bit in first, but most of my EA82 5MTs, as long as they had good fluid, where very quite in all forward gears. and now this '94 LGT I'm driving, is louder in first and second than it is in reverse, and it's got 3 week old Scotty's Cocktail in it.

nope, using Nissan 200SX rear calipers for rear handbrake (still cable operated). I live in a very hilly city, and am a delivery driver, so I need to have a parking brake. and the stock EA82 cables won't reach the back without kinking. so I'm mounting the rear-pull handle, and drilling new holes for the legacy cables to go towards the back. custom short shifter (cut 3-4" off the stock shifter, drilled new hole for the little spring pin) and, extending the PT4WD hi/lo shift rod to work better with the FT4WD DR trans. now the hi/lo shift lever won't hit the 5MT shifter when in 4th Lo! went to menards, and bought a 1ft section of 5/8"-11 threaded rod, and 2 matching couplers. then cut the shift rod, and tapped the ends to match (took all day to find a 5/8"-11 die!), a little thread locker, paint to resist rust, and voila!

nope, 1st gear is helical. the only straight cut gear in a 5MT is reverse. and that's just to ease engagement.

as phiz said, FT4WD boxes only came with 3.7 or 3.9.only way to change that, is to change the center diff to a new-gen AWD center, and then you can use an EJ-series 4.111 or 4.444 front ring and pinion. it's no small task....that's for sure!

possible to get a different standalone that could read the CAS signal properly? I've been working with a Link LEM G3 on my buddies LGT project this summer, and it's very well setup. with separate maps for cold start, etc. it can even control A/C. might it be possible to set it up to read the EA82 CAS?

your driveability won't change until you bottom out the shocks.....and with stiffer springs you can easily run 2-3" lower than stock without risking that. in the back, you'll ride on the bump stops long before you actually bottom out the shocks. if you're going for some extreme lowering, THEN you should switch to 2WD XT struts and miata rear shocks. but these (especially the miata stuff) will require at least 3" of drop since I can't afford the AGX's this fall, I intend to try the WJM patented shock/strut fluid change. but I think it'll make quick work of the seals on my daily driven car

measure the approximate diameter of your stock fan (the blades...). go to your favorite auto parts store. they'll have a few generic thin electric radiator fans for ~$40. wire it in place of the factory electric fan so it will function just like the stock one did (thermo switch on the radiator, and override when you turn on the A/C, if applicable). with a crappy, mud-caked single row radiator in either of my lifted wagons. the stock electric fan was plenty to keep the engine cool. with a nice, 2-row radiator, and an aftermarket fan, you'll be set. AND, with the removal of the clutch fan, you'll gain a little power and mileage too.