Numbchux

yep, lots of rusty metal at this juncture. but I'm staying at my parents house tonight, and in the morning, going out to a buddy's place where he has an extremely sweet sandblasting setup. and will be stripping the trailing arms, sway bars, and 3 pairs of backing plates (XT6 ones to be installed...and 2 pair of 4-lug ones to sell) down to bare metal. then the re-assembly phase can begin. And after that, out to my uncle's place where he has a hydraulic press to get the outer races out and the new ones in

that'd be cool. don't know if the EA81s would be applicable though....

maybe it's a difference between the '85 and the '92, independent of the HH..... in the morning I'll take a closer look. and compare it to the '94 LGT that I'm driving now (has HH)

IIRC the MC has more ports for the hill holder. huh, I'll have to go take a peek, and see what I can find.

yep, once you get enough out of there so that hydrolocking isn't a risk, you should be able to reassemble and start 'er up. it'll smoke for a bit, but it shouldn't hurt anything.

my loyale used to be an automatic....and therefore does not have a hill holder (loyales may not have been available with them anyway...). it's now a 5-speed, and I live in a city full of hills.... I have the MC and HH from my old '85 in the garage, but I'm not exactly sure how I should go about plumbing these in. I haven't really taken a close look at them, so I probably could figure it out. but I thought I'd ask to see if anyone here has done it.

The simple side of it is, Higher octane fuel burns slower, and therefore must be ignited sooner. for more information than your average joe (like me) can understand, go here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

yes, I've thought about wheel spacers, and very well may use them....but using them just complicates fender clearance :-\

what? differences between 22e and 22t? yea. crank and rods are identical. pistons are interchangeable. only difference between the pistons themselves is the shape for the different compression ratio. valves are the same, intake mani is virtually identical (extra vacuum line for the Boost control solenoid).

the 22t is not that different from a 22e. the only difference between a 22t and a 22e, is the shortblock, pistons, cams, and injectors (and the coolant and oil ports on the head, but those can be replicated). drop some 22t pistons and ARP head studs on a 22e, and it's easily strong enough to see 300awhp. and if you're exceeding that, you're probably going to need alcohol injection and some serious bottom end work (at which point you could just pin the cylinder walls anyway) There's a guy here in the Twin Cities who was running a 22t, and was having massive cooling issues. and it was because of the lack of cooling passages with the closed deck block. he swapped it for a 257 shortblock, and it runs much better now.

we can argue the ups and downs of an EJ trans vs an EA trans all day. but in all reality, they're pretty similar options. the EJ trans means you can use better clutch/flywheel combos, but will require more fabricating. like you said, crossmember, driveshaft, maybe shift linkage (some say you do....some say you don't), rear diff, etc. etc. etc. many non-turbo EJ cars had a cable clutch. the hydraulic clutch would be extremely difficult. or, you can stick with the EA trans, keep your low range, have the crossmember, linkage, and driveshaft fit perfectly without modification, spend a little time modifying the flywheel, and you're set. but, it's up to you. and yes, save yourself some hassle, just buy an entire donor car. that way you know the engine runs before you start modifying stuff, and you know you have everything.

same thing up here. lots of them on the road. now all the local subaru guys are buying them up, and parting them out, regardless of the condition. that said, one of them parted out a tleg not long ago, with the intent of using the whole motor (harness and ECU aswell). and has since decided to use the heads and intake mani in his RS, and a standalone ECU. soooooo.....he should have the harness and ECU available. I'll ask. otherwise, it's not exactly cheap, but would be an extremely sweet setup. check out the Link LEM G3 ( http://www.linkecu.com ). full standalone, works very well with subaru motors, simple, only about 10 wires to hook up, but still allows cold start enrichment, A/C control etc. I wired one up in my buddies '98 Legacy GT, and it was incredibly easy! it is, however, about an $1100 setup but I think I'll be running one in my car before too long.

mmmk....I haven't put tires on 'em yet. I just converted 8" to mm, and got 205. so I was thinking anything wider would stick out beyond the rim, and rub on the trailing arm. my buddy has some 235/40r17s on his RS, and he offered to let me test one of them on my car....so we shall see.

huh....I completely forgot that this post hadn't been updated with the latest version. the latest version, and some other handy files can be found in the USRM here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73676 I'll also update the original post with the same info. OOPS, never mind, it's been too long, I can't edit it....

I considered that too....keep in mind, this is MPFI. seperate intake runners.

bump say, WJM, are you having any tire vs trailing arm issues? I just got a set of subaru fitment 17x8 rota torques (48mm offset), and I bolted them up to the hubs, and it's looking ugly: thoughts?

thought I'd post this link up: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=597481#post597481 WJM is running 17x8 rotas, much like mine.

intake mani gasket? I've heard of them causing the white smoke.....but actually filling the cylinder?

well, I've been working on this for about a week now. stole my dad's '94 LGT wagon (he can drive the caravan :-p ), and did this to my wagon: got some parts ready for install : hmmm 8" wide rim.....yikes: out with the old: got the new knuckles stripped down, new bearings are on the way: trying to get the rear diff pinion nut off: took out the driveshaft, locked the center diff, put a breaker bar on the nut, and proceeded to drive. it just locked the tires. I guess I'll have to try an impact :-\ yesterday, I spent about 3 hours (got locked in.....who'd a thunk they close @ 5?) and most of my paycheck at the junkyard yesterday: today, with some seafoam deep creep, and this rig, I got the splindle nuts loose: all of this for those 2 stinkin brackets: I'll be taking them down to my buddy's place next weekend to sandblast them. hopefully get my superpro bushings ordered very soon.....I can't wait!!!

yea, I think that popped up for sale on craigslist awhile back. IIRC the guy cut the centers out of those wheels, and then welded them to the stock wheels (hence the negative backspacing )

yes easiest way would be put the 2.5 heads and intake mani on the 2.2 shortblock. but some creative wiring work, and you could do it with the long block.

after the corvette pushed it. anyway, 3rd gear on a 3AT is 1:1, and they have a 3.7 axle ratio, with 23" tires, 130mph = a touch over 7k rpms. I had my FWD 3AT loyale up to 100.....I thought I was going to die I also got my D/R 5MT '85 pegged in FWD on ice.

the new ones will fit fine, and are the same length as the adjustable ones in the lowest position. so if you've got them adjusted up.....it'll lower it, otherwise it'll be the same.

night and day? no but yea, it's noticable. it's not a corvette.....if you drive it like a corvette, your going to end up in a body cast (true story, dad's coworker replaced her vette with a wrangler...)

well....13s are rediculously small. 14s would be right at home. that in mind, and consider the huge sidewalls on the stock tires, 17s really aren't that big.