Numbchux

any turbo EA82 has rear discs. hubs and backing plates are different between FWD and 4WD. you can bolt FWD rotors to 4WD hubs (although you wouldn't otherwise have to seperate them....)

get your hands on a Chilton's manual. they have all the factory service manual diagrams in them. they're labeled for a loyale, but everything is virtually identical (only differences I've ever found were wire colors) I've never seen them online....

torsion bar = more rear travel. As far as Subaru's go, I haven't really noticed much usable difference from one to the other. other than the torsion bar allowing more travel (although frequently that leads to broken axles), EA82 being a bit more cooperative to an EJ swap, and EA82 motors sucking out loud :-p .

I appreciate the offer, Tim! But I would like to have one. I'm a bit worried about these bearings. it's possible that some fresh grease will fix the problem, but I may have to go in in a year or so and put in some new ones.

well....I think since the title of the picture is "buggy engine" that's a pretty safe bet!

That right there.....is automotive porn :slobber: extremely nice work. I hope to pull the engine out of my car next summer and do a bottom up rebuild, and something much like what you've done!

that's the one. $30?! yikes. might have to bite the bullet though. he checked the paper catalog (all the guys that work at the parts counter at this particular dealership are active members of the local subaru club), but was not able to find anything. he said he'd keep looking, but thought I'd ask here first.

On my old trailing arms, I got away with using a punch to get the wheel bearings free.....but these ones are much too stubborn. I contacted my local dealer about getting me the tool to remove them (Wrench 925550000 according to the '88 FSM), and he said it didn't register. anyone know where I could get ahold of it? maybe have an updated part number?

yea, 15" wheels > 14s not the cheapest option....but TireRack has BFG A/Ts in a 27x8.5x14 on closeout for $94 a piece.

a couple hours of sandblasting (would've been less if the @#$@#%^ compressor would've just stayed running ), and you've got this: the paint is drying now. some rustoleum rusty metal primer, and professional grade gloss black......mmmmmmmmmmmmm

^^those are definitely M/Ts. looks to be a BFG tread pattern....or a knockoff of them. because you're using a link to the page, instead of a link to the image. right click on the image, and copy the image location, then you get this:

FWD turbos had 25 splines. the front axles that I was running in my wagon all year (with RX FT4WD trans) came from a FWD 4EAT turbo wagon. you sound like you probably have your reasons. but I don't understand why you need an EA82t chassis, or why you don't want an adapter plate.... and you could also convert it to AWD/4WD pretty easily.

I'd drive it home. I've driven many miles with a broken clutch cable. even drove across town and back here in Duluth (stoplights/stopsigns, and steep hills!)

yep, select monitor. if it was an OBD II car, it'd be more useful. but there's nothing you can get there that you can't get from the flashing CEL. just make sure you have the read mode connectors around.

huh, mine does that a little bit. but only under 1500 rpm and under a lot of load (WOT, at least 3rd gear, or 2nd up a steep hill). then it feels like it's running rich, and if I ease off the throttle to about 3/4, then floor it @ 2k or so. while mine is out of commission this month, neutral, VSS, and starter switches will all be wired into the ECU. and I'll be connecting the CEL to the light on the dash. I shall see if I notice any difference (although it'll be some time yet before I can drive it).

yep, lots of rusty metal at this juncture. but I'm staying at my parents house tonight, and in the morning, going out to a buddy's place where he has an extremely sweet sandblasting setup. and will be stripping the trailing arms, sway bars, and 3 pairs of backing plates (XT6 ones to be installed...and 2 pair of 4-lug ones to sell) down to bare metal. then the re-assembly phase can begin. And after that, out to my uncle's place where he has a hydraulic press to get the outer races out and the new ones in

that'd be cool. don't know if the EA81s would be applicable though....

maybe it's a difference between the '85 and the '92, independent of the HH..... in the morning I'll take a closer look. and compare it to the '94 LGT that I'm driving now (has HH)

IIRC the MC has more ports for the hill holder. huh, I'll have to go take a peek, and see what I can find.

yep, once you get enough out of there so that hydrolocking isn't a risk, you should be able to reassemble and start 'er up. it'll smoke for a bit, but it shouldn't hurt anything.

my loyale used to be an automatic....and therefore does not have a hill holder (loyales may not have been available with them anyway...). it's now a 5-speed, and I live in a city full of hills.... I have the MC and HH from my old '85 in the garage, but I'm not exactly sure how I should go about plumbing these in. I haven't really taken a close look at them, so I probably could figure it out. but I thought I'd ask to see if anyone here has done it.

The simple side of it is, Higher octane fuel burns slower, and therefore must be ignited sooner. for more information than your average joe (like me) can understand, go here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

yes, I've thought about wheel spacers, and very well may use them....but using them just complicates fender clearance :-\

what? differences between 22e and 22t? yea. crank and rods are identical. pistons are interchangeable. only difference between the pistons themselves is the shape for the different compression ratio. valves are the same, intake mani is virtually identical (extra vacuum line for the Boost control solenoid).

the 22t is not that different from a 22e. the only difference between a 22t and a 22e, is the shortblock, pistons, cams, and injectors (and the coolant and oil ports on the head, but those can be replicated). drop some 22t pistons and ARP head studs on a 22e, and it's easily strong enough to see 300awhp. and if you're exceeding that, you're probably going to need alcohol injection and some serious bottom end work (at which point you could just pin the cylinder walls anyway) There's a guy here in the Twin Cities who was running a 22t, and was having massive cooling issues. and it was because of the lack of cooling passages with the closed deck block. he swapped it for a 257 shortblock, and it runs much better now.