Numbchux

Yes. the axles can take it. everything will bolt right up.

agreed. when you take into account the drivetrain loss, and the added weight, of a slushbox, an N/A motor with a 5-speed would be faster. an EA 5-speed will hold up fine. an XT6 pressure plate is a must for the turbo. there are aftermarket options, if you want to get a stiffer one. WRX clutch discs will work, and there are a number of people who have had custom PP's made....although it'll be hard on your clutch cable. my stock EA82 4-cyl disc and PP are holding up very well to my EJ22e (non-turbo), had 30k miles on them, then sat in a wheel barrow with the blown engine, then bolted to this, and I've put about 25k on it since then....still holding pretty strong. mounting a hydraulic clutch pedal in an EA car would be a nightmare.....run, don't walk, to your nearest exit. as mentioned, FWD will get old in a hurry....so get something FT4WD. an EA82 5-speed will be a bit simpler, with the mounts, linkage, and driveshaft all bolting right up. 4EAT would not be fun to wire up. 'just' leaving in those extra wires would not be nearly as simple as it sounds....especially the clump of wires going to the shifter. taking stuff out is easy, it's making the leftovers work properly that's the hard part.

as if a part number was that easy to get :-\ I'm looking....

you *could* BUT the problem isn't the overall length. you're not changing the distance between the tcase and rear axle. you'd be trying to cram another axle between the tcase and front axle only way I can see it working, is if you put ~ 2 feet of shaft between the tranny and tcase. also, it wouldn't solve the gearing issues that justify putting in a second tcase. because the front diff cannot be regeared, the other 2 would be stuck at 3.90. and because the front diff doesn't run through the tcase, you wouldn't be able to use the second low range.

EA81 = smaller front brakes I don't know how easily EA81 stuff could be put on there.

well, it looks like I'll be at my parents' place on the western edge of the Twin Cities Wednesday and Thursday. I'm coming down to buy a car.....so I'll probably without one (certainly without mine). but I could probably come give you a hand if you need it, and my parents' have a garage.....(and many spare parts that I'm sure my mom would LOOOOOVE to be rid of)

no, there's only like 1/4" between the caliper and the rim...and I think about the same on the tie rod end.

absolutely zero clunking (which is awesome considering that my EA82 shocks were bottoming out on every crack in the road). stock shocks: miata shocks: same springs. My girlfriend says when I readjusted the springs for the shorter shocks, I made the rear end a bit higher than before. this is as high as the miata rears will allow, so if you want your ride height any higher, use fronts, and I'd go at least 2" higher to avoid bottoming them out.

I'm pretty sure that's right. just get out a multimeter, and check for continuity according to the diagram....if you've got it...you're set! also, there are a couple things on the EJ engine (IIRC coil, and maybe some other things) that get power directly from the alternator. it's much simpler to just run those right to the main relay for power.

yep, works awesome. just drove up to two harbors (about 45 miles each way....freeway speeds). very smooth ride, these shocks are much more effective at this ride height than my stockers (well....stockers would bottom out on any larger bump). can't wait to get the AGX's and GCs ordered up

Rustoleum Flat Black rattle can: I realize the blue is different...but you get the idea

I would think so aswell. I cut off the stock muffler on my blue '88 lifted wagon, and replaced it with a Thrush Glasspack. awesome sound, WAAAYYY more power (well...as much as can be expected from that simple of a mod).

well, I found it, the key to getting virtually any suspension setup for your EA82 subaru....MIATAs!! 1989-1997 miatas use a very simple coilover shock design much like the EA82 rear end. from left to right. miata rear, EA82 subaru rear, Miata front, BE Legacy rear (which can also be used...read on) the key difference, is the upper mount. the subaru ones use a large, rubber bushing in the upper mount. the BE shock is too wide to even fit into the bushing, as well as too short to reach all the way through it. the miata ones are narrow enough, but still not long enough. solution? remove the bushing now, the hole in the upper mount is too large (this is an EA82 upper mount minus the bushing on a miata shock): so, I went to home depot, and bought a bag of 3/4" flat washers. and sandwiching the upper mount between 4 washers, converted it to a solid mount: this same method could be used with BE/BH legacy stuff. also, if I had a welder, I'd weld the washers to the mount.....but I think this'll work fine. full coilovers (tein or the like) for a newer legacies can be used....but a bushing is required because the lower bolt is smaller on the EA82 than the legacy. not so with miata stuff. the lower bushing fits perfectly on the EA82 trailing arm: finished product: aftermarket support for NA (chassis code) miatas is virtually endless. so if you can match it with the front (5-lug), you can probably find it for the rear too. the bad news? Miata shocks have quite a bit less travel. only about 5" compared to the EA82s almost 6.5". and the lengths are a bit less than ideal. at full extension, the Miata rears are about 16" long, and the fronts are about 20" (the same as stock EA82s). I'm using rears here, because I've got the car pretty slammed. but once I go 5-lug, and go to stuff bigger (both wider and taller) tires in there I'll use fronts and only drop the car an inch or so. also, there isn't a stock spring that'll work easily with this application. so a coilover spring that has it's own upper perch will need to be used. be it cheap ebay ones like I have now, or Ground controls... I intend to run Ground control springs and KYB AGX shocks all around. on a side note, I decided to replace the rear brake pads while I had things apart....so I went and bought new pads. while I was driving back from Checker auto parts...I heard a clunk. and when I got home, I found this:

the difficult part is not finding a rear axle, it's mounting one. save yourself the effort and just pick up a nissan or isuzu or yota rear axle. then you'd even have low gear options (assuming you're also doing divorced tcase), aswell as locker options

I got a new one from napa....IIRC it was like $45.

I'm embarrassed to say that's my car. man what a crappy soldering job. buuut....I did that setup a year ago in a hurry, and haven't had a reason to touch it. it's worked wonderfully. I've never been left with a dead battery in anything above -30*F (and then I got a dry-cell battery ) the large white wire that attaches to the stud on the alt is unmodified EA82. and the other 2 is just the EJ plug on the end of the EA harness.

yep, that's the dampener. I had mine rust through last fall..... only way I could find to replace it, was to replace the whole pump :-\

my loyale one worked fine. shorter than I'd like, so it takes a pretty tight bend, but doesn't kink.

yep, there's a little hardline, about 6-8" long with male connections on both ends that go on the high pressure side. it will solve the problem you have. I don't remember which car this came off of, but you have both....go see if it's still attached to the lines on the legacy, or the EA pump. EDIT: found a pic that shows my PS lines, this pic is supposed to show my rad fan sensor, but you can see the lines. that is stock loyale lines (now plugged into an '86 XT steering rack)

replace the piping between the tb and MAF with something solid....like PVC (yea, laugh all you want, but it'll work). but if the ECU doesn't know how much air is going in (via the MAF), it won't know how much fuel to use.....which will cause many problems.

yea, if you want to see some crazy stuff....look up "PHATsuby's crazy project" (thread title) in the NASIOC legacy section. That's the TT EZ30DR that I was referring to. he's doing some really cool, and extremely unique stuff to make that work. and the oil circulation system he had to use is insanity!

yea, but do you have the time and fabrication skills/equipment to make it work? go to a junkyard, and get yourself a decent loyale radiator. it'll fit right in, and the lower outlet points straight out (instead of the steep upward angle like the GL ones).

I know of 2 people doing full custom twin turbo setups here in MN. one on an EG33, and the other on an EZ30DR. but bother are parrallel. and, in all reality, with tuning and other technology where it is today, there isn't much need for 2 turbos on a 4-cyl. sequential or otherwise. although I'm sure it's been done.

hmmm.... tremclad being the canadian version here's a thread, in which he explains how to get awesome results using this method. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 seriously, read all of his posts (username 69chargeryeehaa) I intend to paint my 4Runner soon, hopefully followed by the loyale

yep, my loyale rad keeps my 22e plenty cool. I just found out the relay for my rad fan circuit died.....huh.....never even noticed.