Numbchux

I've never had problems, even on the outer joints in the front..... they're so close to the center, the balance issue is extremely minor. it might make your wheel bearings die 1k miles sooner.....but in the grand scheme of things..... ANND, I've never been able to get a real live CV boot clamp tight enough. maybe I'm just special needs, and can't make it work. but a hose clamp is extremely easy to get plenty tight. no worries.

I don't really have any clue what you're saying there.... OB struts and 2" scorpion lift springs for an outback would yield 5-6". but stock outbacks have a small body lift (I believe it's an inch or less....just to ease axle angles). I wouldn't run the scorpion springs without it. besides, 29" tires are pretty much the biggest tire you can fit under the spring perches on the outback struts, and you'll easily fit that without the lift springs.

no, outback/baja/forester struts will yield about 1.5-2", stock outback/baja/forester springs will yield another 1.5-2". Scorpion lift springs for an outback would yield ANOTHER couple inches. outback, baja, and forester stuff is virtually identical in height. but ever so slightly different in dimensions (spring diameter, upper strut bolt patter, etc.). Meaning forester stuff would have the same result, just more work to get there. also, I'm fairly certain that the forester is lighter than the outback, so when installed under a legacy, forester stuff might even be lower. fender, overhang, and wheelbase dimensions make a forester seem taller than an outback (not to mention the body is taller....making the roof taller). but the suspension is virtually the same.

now who's the one doling out the misinformation....:-\ 20H/Rs are sequential. not staged, or parrallel. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twin-turbo when they work, they work pretty well. putting down all the power of your standard EJ20t (a nonspecific term to reference any single turbo 2.0l EJ engine), with very little lag. because the smaller turbo spools almost instantly. in stock form, they leave a hole between where the smaller turbo peaks and the bigger one is just beginning to spool up, but I think some tuning and exhaust work, coupled with some carefully selected turbos, you could eliminate this. East Coast Swappers just finished putting a complete, stock EJ20H into an impreza (converted to RHD....of course). some cool info on it....I'll try to find the link. but yes, the extra complexity does sacrifice some reliability, but so does a single turbo over N/A. sometimes a price worth paying. edit: added a pic of an EJ20H that I had saved on my computer

take the wheel off....you'll soon see what's the problem I did something much like that in my loyale, except it destroyed the wheel and tire that was on there aswell. new control arm and leading rod, and it's good as new... well, now, 3 years later, I'm finding the damage when the tire hit the fender made it EXTREMELY difficult to mount my body kit

Look, misinformation or not, keep it civil. you've been here a couple months, you should know that the people here specialize in older gen. it's just like going onto NASIOC and asking if anyone knows the difference between an '88 Coupe and an '88 Hatch. EJ20t means it's a 2.0l EJ-series motor with a Turbo, could be any one of the many combinations therein, 20G, 20K, 205, 207 etc. long story short, if you're going to be a jackass, don't revive the 2 year old thread.

those are not stock I beleive my 4Runner has 4.10s, I don't remember exactly, but I do know it's specific to the turbos.

yea, it's dropped a good 3-4". using generic coilover conversion springs for an impreza. they have an adjustable sleeve that allows me to select the exact ride height.

yep, the front outer CVs are pretty crucial... but everything else could be done. but would require quite a bit of custom work.

nah, this car is going to be parked within the next week or so....and the next time it drives, will be on WRX split-5s!

well, you might be able to get a temp gauge to work with the stock sender (although I know you can get the stock temp gauge to work...), the oil light is just an on/off. if the oil pressure is low, it completes the circuit, grounding that wire. hook up a light to it, and you'll have an oil light. anything else and you'll need a different sender. although you can certainly reuse that wire (that wire I marked is the same one that goes right to the sender under the alt, nothing between it). and neither of those wires go to the ECU, they come straight from the engine.

time to get these painted right and mounted has been hard to come by.....but I got the side skirts on:

my 3" lifted wagon rubbed with 29s when flexing. you're going to have to beat the living crap out of that poor thing to get those to fit without a lift.

jcwhitney has some nice basic gauges, and they also have a metric adapter set that *theoretically* shouldn't require any modification to install....

is the car lifted? how much to they rub? a little rubbing won't hurt anything, as long as it's not on anything sharp.

of course it did, like you said, wasn't a feedback carb, and wasn't designed to have a computer. my buddies '86 wagon isn't, and it run's awesome. my '85 ran like crap.....all the time.

never heard of a BP/BL....maybe the Liberty GX that I was referring to? EDIT: nevermind, BP/BL is the '05+ legacy and your link/img didn't work. the ones we're talking about were in early '90s cars. pretty sure just BC/BJ/BFs. EDIT AGAIN: according to Wikipedia, just the European and British Wagons got the D/R tranny....but I know they got them in Australia too.

huh, I did nothing about the fuel pump.....it 'worked'

the EJ D/Rs were full-time. they have the same center diff as any other EJ AWD subaru, but have a low range gearset on the input shaft before any of the other gears, and right above the front diff. on EA cars, it has a mechanical linkage that pushes the lever to engage it on EJ ones, it's a vacuum solenoid. I believe they're most commonly found on the Liberty GX

yea, I'm not sure if the ign advance is electric or vacuum though.... but it will run, I drove mine to school and work for the better part of a week like that.

feedback carbs will run......but insanely rich. when I first got my '85, I was working on it, and accidently blew the 'engine' fuse (which supplies power to the ECU), and it could barely move, and got about 8 mpg. you might be able to compensate for it somehow.....or swap to a weber and get it to work well.

I ran my car for about 4 months as FWD only (no rear end, just front half of the driveshaft....center diff locked). even in some snow.... it was OK, only problem was in 1st. I could easily roast a front tire at any speed in 1st. no chance of WOT acceleration. but for DD duty, it's fine. but in the long run, you'll want to go FT.

yep, threw the guys at Tires Plus a curveball....obviously the guy who filled out the slip wasn't the same guy who drove it, cause he checked it as an Auto trans although that wasn't half as funny as when he opened the hood.....

AFAIK, baja, outback, and forester will all yeild about the same height. but I believe early outback ('97?...maybe '99) stuff would fit easiest on your car.

you need to have a driveshaft plugged in the trans to keep the gear oil in.... but you can just run the front half of it. the carrier bearing mount will be the hardest part. you'll have to get pretty creative.