Numbchux

Look, misinformation or not, keep it civil. you've been here a couple months, you should know that the people here specialize in older gen. it's just like going onto NASIOC and asking if anyone knows the difference between an '88 Coupe and an '88 Hatch. EJ20t means it's a 2.0l EJ-series motor with a Turbo, could be any one of the many combinations therein, 20G, 20K, 205, 207 etc. long story short, if you're going to be a jackass, don't revive the 2 year old thread.

those are not stock I beleive my 4Runner has 4.10s, I don't remember exactly, but I do know it's specific to the turbos.

yea, it's dropped a good 3-4". using generic coilover conversion springs for an impreza. they have an adjustable sleeve that allows me to select the exact ride height.

yep, the front outer CVs are pretty crucial... but everything else could be done. but would require quite a bit of custom work.

nah, this car is going to be parked within the next week or so....and the next time it drives, will be on WRX split-5s!

well, you might be able to get a temp gauge to work with the stock sender (although I know you can get the stock temp gauge to work...), the oil light is just an on/off. if the oil pressure is low, it completes the circuit, grounding that wire. hook up a light to it, and you'll have an oil light. anything else and you'll need a different sender. although you can certainly reuse that wire (that wire I marked is the same one that goes right to the sender under the alt, nothing between it). and neither of those wires go to the ECU, they come straight from the engine.

time to get these painted right and mounted has been hard to come by.....but I got the side skirts on:

my 3" lifted wagon rubbed with 29s when flexing. you're going to have to beat the living crap out of that poor thing to get those to fit without a lift.

jcwhitney has some nice basic gauges, and they also have a metric adapter set that *theoretically* shouldn't require any modification to install....

is the car lifted? how much to they rub? a little rubbing won't hurt anything, as long as it's not on anything sharp.

of course it did, like you said, wasn't a feedback carb, and wasn't designed to have a computer. my buddies '86 wagon isn't, and it run's awesome. my '85 ran like crap.....all the time.

never heard of a BP/BL....maybe the Liberty GX that I was referring to? EDIT: nevermind, BP/BL is the '05+ legacy and your link/img didn't work. the ones we're talking about were in early '90s cars. pretty sure just BC/BJ/BFs. EDIT AGAIN: according to Wikipedia, just the European and British Wagons got the D/R tranny....but I know they got them in Australia too.

huh, I did nothing about the fuel pump.....it 'worked'

the EJ D/Rs were full-time. they have the same center diff as any other EJ AWD subaru, but have a low range gearset on the input shaft before any of the other gears, and right above the front diff. on EA cars, it has a mechanical linkage that pushes the lever to engage it on EJ ones, it's a vacuum solenoid. I believe they're most commonly found on the Liberty GX

yea, I'm not sure if the ign advance is electric or vacuum though.... but it will run, I drove mine to school and work for the better part of a week like that.

feedback carbs will run......but insanely rich. when I first got my '85, I was working on it, and accidently blew the 'engine' fuse (which supplies power to the ECU), and it could barely move, and got about 8 mpg. you might be able to compensate for it somehow.....or swap to a weber and get it to work well.

I ran my car for about 4 months as FWD only (no rear end, just front half of the driveshaft....center diff locked). even in some snow.... it was OK, only problem was in 1st. I could easily roast a front tire at any speed in 1st. no chance of WOT acceleration. but for DD duty, it's fine. but in the long run, you'll want to go FT.

yep, threw the guys at Tires Plus a curveball....obviously the guy who filled out the slip wasn't the same guy who drove it, cause he checked it as an Auto trans although that wasn't half as funny as when he opened the hood.....

AFAIK, baja, outback, and forester will all yeild about the same height. but I believe early outback ('97?...maybe '99) stuff would fit easiest on your car.

you need to have a driveshaft plugged in the trans to keep the gear oil in.... but you can just run the front half of it. the carrier bearing mount will be the hardest part. you'll have to get pretty creative.

holy crap....so I did that, had google translate the page. and they sell EJ lift kits http://64.233.179.104/translate_c?hl=en&u=http://rocket-craft.com/lift_up_subaru/index.html&prev=/search%3Fq%3Drocket-craft.com%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26hs%3DYhj if that doesn't work.... http://rocket-craft.com/lift_up_subaru/index.html btw, according to the translator, the coupe is a Nissan Sunny RZ1 http://www.caramelist.com/Nissan/Sunny%20RZ1.html and some more subarus not already listed: the 360: http://rocket-craft.com/car/works_car53.html the Tommy Kaira '04-'05 STi: http://rocket-craft.com/car/works_car54.html '06+ legacy sedan: http://rocket-craft.com/car/works_car92.html Subaru Rex: http://rocket-craft.com/car/works_car126.html but this imp remains my favorite, and there are some sweet pictures of it and the lifted wagon here too: http://rocket-craft.com/car/works_car119.html

I'm talking about resetting more than just the codes. erase everything that it may have learned about it's new home. which, as far as I know, can only be done by unplugging it for long enough that that flash memory gets reset (overnight, at least).

my EJ22 loyale ran awesome on the stock pump (SPFI) until the dampner on the pump rusted through....btw, still ran awesome with a substantial leak replaced it with one for a turbo, and it runs the same. tony, might want to reset the ECU. with all this messing around with stuff trying to get it to start, you may have confused it. unplug the negative battery terminal overnight, and then give it a whirl..... this was a strong running motor in the donor car, wasn't it?

the EJ axle-back won't fit. the combination of an entirely different design (EAs go over the axle, EJs go under) and different wheel base makes it impossible. you can either bolt up the EA exhaust for a quite, perfectly fitting, and power-robbing exhaust, leave the axle-back (and muffler) off, or go full custom.

yep, the 1/4" drive one is what I have.....removed at least 6 stubs with this same socket