Numbchux

I'm confused....did you hear the fuel pump come on? if you don't have power at the large yellow wire on the fuel pump relay (should come straight form the main relay)....than the pump can't come on. so if you don't have power....you're obviously not going to have fuel....so check the fuse, than check for power at the main relay, than the fuel pump relay, than the few places on the engine.

bump stops keep you from bottoming out your shocks, which is extremely hard on them. do what you like, but your comparison is hardly relevant. your car is still setup for street use. while your SUV is engineered (even if it is a Kia) for offroad use much more than the subaru. but remove your bump stops (or install a lift....effectively same result) and sway bar, and you'd get another 4-5" of total flex....easy. do this with your sway bar and bump stops (which....as far as travel goes, is the only difference):

come again? it doesn't go away? or it doesn't happen?

on the rocks up here....momentum will get most of the car over the obstacle.....but you'll probably leave your wheels and much of the suspension before it

TCU = tranny control....if you're not using the EJ 4EAT....you won't be using those. and an unplugged wire = a cut wire, except ones alot messier! easiest way to find the dash wires, is with an ECU pinout (like the one included in the writeup). find what you're looking for, find the pin, trace the wire, and mark it.

wow....let's get a few things straight the car will start fine without a neutral start switch. in stock form, the neutral start switch will bypass the starter relay, and nothing else. so, if it's turning over, that's not your problem. next, the alternator does nothing but charge the battery. car will run fine without it. the fuel pump shouldn't cycle on and off repeatedly. it should turn on for a couple seconds as soon as you turn the ignition on, and then turn off....and stay off until you start the car. I have it wired (how I did it on mine) EVERYTHING on the engine harness that needs power, gets it directly from the main relay. and the main relay gets it straight from the battery, that little green wire from the relay simply turns the relay on/off....if it's cycling, you've got the test mode connectors connected. there should be 2 pairs of plugs right next to the ECU, each with 2 wire, one pair is green, the other black. all 4 of these should be unplugged (one pair is check mode, the other is test). I don't know if test mode would prevent power anywhere.....but it can't help. SO, plan of action (starting simple): 1. unplug test/check mode connectors 2. check the fuse wired in just after the battery. if this is blown, you won't have power to the whole circuit (although if the fuel pump works at all, theoretically the fuse should be fine...but it can't hurt to check it) 3. check for fuel delivery (also not likely to be your problem, but would be good and easy to check). unplug the line between the underhood fuel filter and the engine and insert into suitable container, turn ignition on. fuel pump should cycle on for a moment, and you should have fuel coming out. 4. get/make yourself a 12v test light, and check for power to the main relay. both of the 2 yellow wires should have power all the time. then check for power from the relay, both yellow with red wires should have power with ign on and relay plugged in (you can reach a contact pretty easily from the back of the relay plug with the relay plugged in. 5. use said test light to check for power at the yellow with red stripe wires on all 4 injectors, and the 02 sensor plug, and the yellow wire at the coil (again...I know :-p ). 6. report back

I'm going to go out on a limb here.....and guess your subaru still has the front sway bar, and is resting on the bump stop in the rear. that's pretty crappy travel. hardly comparable. the shocks won't lift the car..... chevelle shocks are very soft the rancho/rough country ones I listed are designed for offroad use, and are valved as such. and since you're still using your stock torsion bar, it won't effect it that much, because your "spring" rate doesn't change, just the damping

are you sure it's actually maxing out your suspension? I can't imagine how that would be possible in FWD. I could spin the front tires with the EA82 without maxing anything out... do you have adjustable struts? stiffer front springs? sounds more to me like you're experiencing power + FWD + less than ideal street tires.

as mentioned, the gray 4-pin plug on the left of pic 1 is the 02 sensor wire. the 3 plugs are plugged in correctly, those are your crank and cam angle sensors, and knock sensors. they come through the center of the firewall on the legacy, and can come up through the hole behind your drivers' side strut tower on the EA82. along with the MAF, and 02 sensor wires. I could be wrong, but the one you're holding looks like the Master Cylinder fluid level plug. you don't have to remove the engine control stuff from the EA82. I did, and it made for a much cleaner install in the end, but added quite a bit of work, and now my right front turn signal doesn't work (ditto on the horns...). the biggest reason I did it, is my loyale was an AT....so there was a bit more wiring (only a 3AT though....so mostly just stuff for the dash and shifter).

no, I don't have a neutral switch or VSS hooked up in my car. runs awesome. does throw CEL codes for them.....but I don't have the CEL wired into the dash, so I don't have to look at it unless I want to that's just weird....I'll have to check the diagrams and stuff....My car doesn't do that, and I've never seen any other older subaru do that (the new STis and whatnot do some goofy thing like that when you turn on the ignition....).

the mustache bar has no bearing on ride height. and there are numerous ways to lower the diff to prevent axle damage. be it blocks at the mounts (like AA and BYB) or a plate to relocate that mount (like SJR), or a full custom mustache bar. AND, that's only the rear mount for the diff. still have to do something with the front mount...

well, that is where the transmission crossmember for the auto's mount....AA calls it the shift linkage gaurd in their lift kit. that's my wagon pictured in your post with the lift in it, shortly after that was taken, I removed that crossmember, with no negative effects (but with it gone, was able to raise my exhaust a couple inches

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50400

in that case, why don't you read the thread you already created about this very topic, in which I gave you a full write-up of exactly how to get 10-12" of travel out of each rear corner. complete with numerous part numbers. here's a link in case you'd forgotten how to search http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75307 I'd offer to spell it out for you.....but I already have.

well...if you're spending 5 digits on shocks/springs/struts....you might as well have some custom long travel axles made too. boy, I wish I had the kind of money to have some custom, long travel coilovers made for an older subaru!

search for dual trannies on pirate4x4.com. there's always someone over there doing it on they're crawlers. seems more common in the yota minitrucks. I don't much see the point, I think dual cases would be much more effective, and far lighter and far smaller.

keep in mind there are more than a few people who hate Tein....and for good reason. there's a reason they're some of the cheapest coilovers on the market. things like needing frequent revalving/rebuilding. AND, they don't galvanize the parts, so they're very prone to rust. AGXs and Ground Control Coilovers would yield at least as nice of a setup, just as much damping adjustability (fewer settings, but the same range), full height adjustability, at a fraction of the cost. btw, someone just responded to my thread on miata.net. the miata lower shock mounts are identical to the subaru ones, bolt diameter (12mm) AND bushing width. Front shock body is 13" and overall length is 20", rear is 9.25 and 16. having a larger body to overall length ratio than the subaru, so you'll have to be careful about ride height. keep in mind they both have 5" of safe, usable travel. next paycheck...and I'm ordering up some.

no it doesn't, it just means that if/when something goes wrong, you can blame it on someone else. I stand by my statement, I trust my car more than any new car. a warranty doesn't change reliability.

my buddy tows his hatch around all the time with the rear on the ground....usually isn't a problem. until the last time, when it popped into 4WD on the freeway, locking up the rear tires for a minute (buh bye super swampers), then just destroyed the tranny. put a strap or bungee cord over the 4WD lever just for good measure, and you'll be good.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine

well, I've been holding out...hoping I could just figure it out, install them, and have finished product pictures....but my financial situation these days looks like that's not going to happen..... anyway. I picked up a full set of BE suspension ('99-'04 Legacy Sedan, uses a different rear suspension design than other EJ cars, and a similar coilover shock to the EA82 rear....which is why coilovers for them work) for next to nothing about a month ago for comparisons' sake. and found them to be rather different. stock loyale on left, stock '03 leggy on right most importantly, the part I was counting on, was wrong. the top of the springs are NOT the same diameter, they're measured from different places on the chart that I made up.....so the legacy springs will not line up with the EA82 tophats. also, the shaft is physically larger in diameter, so it will not fit through the EA82 tophat. again.....problems. so....back to the drawing board. I decided to look outside the box, as it were, and look for what I wanted....KYB AGXs. since I knew I could get them for the front (5-lug with EJ front stuff...), I thought I'd do what I could to find something for the rear. so I got on ebay, narrowed it down to the AGXs, and found a seller who always posted a pic of the actual part (which now, the link isn't working), not just a file photo. and found: those are a full set of shocks for a '90-'97 Miata, which...they do make AGXs for. from a write-up on Miata.net, I found that the upper nut is a 17mm, the same as an EA82...so I would assume that the shaft, or at least the threads, is/are a pretty similar diameter to the EA82. BUT, I'm unsure of the length. just looking at the pic, it looks like the fronts would be too long (might work for a longer shock in a lifted application though), but the rears might work, especially in a lowered car. I started this thread over there....but obviously haven't gotten the most helpful responses: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=239152 you can also get Ground Control adjustable coilover springs for virtually any application, in any spring rate, and any length, made by Eibach, for a pretty reasonable price.....so you can fine-tune your ride how you like it. http://ground-control-store.com/index.php I was hoping to be able to run up to the local junk yard to get the trailing arms from that XT turbo...and while I'm there crawl under a miata with my tape measure....but I haven't had time. Maybe someone here will

just did that mod last week.....if my old steering rack hadn't been totally shot, I would've called it a worthless project. I noticed a much bigger difference from the extreme toe-in I gave it upon initial installation. counted about 3.75 turns lock-to-lock with my loyale rack, and a touch under 3.5 with the XT....yawn a guy here in the Twin Cities installed one (a ratio doubler in the steering column) in his now-EJ22t-powered GF, giving him something like 2.25 turns. it's a bit squirmy on the freeway....but still safe, and an absolute demon on the AutoX course!!! I guess he got it from a rally company, it was specifically designed to work in a GC impreza, so it was an extremely easy installation, but cost an arm and a leg!

^^can't say I agree with you....at all :-\ It isn't that he wanted something different out of the STi, it's the concept that it just isn't the same if you don't do it yourself. you couldn't give me a jetta, malibu, or caravan. I don't worry for a second about the reliability of my 15 year old car with a 250k mile engine. in fact, I trust it more than I would any new car! Subarus included.

This is something that a member of RS25.com posted over there, and I found it very inspiring, and thought I'd share: I know we’ve all been there at one point; we hate our cars because it takes so much to turn it in to something that it’s not. We spend so much time, effort and money to replicate our favorite version Impreza, or make it our own, and all we get are head aches and empty bank accounts. (Garrett ‘poormansporsche’ knows exactly what I’m talking about.) The unexpected break downs, receiving the wrong parts, the bloody knuckles, the waiting for the container to arrive from Japan, the dirt and rust ridden undercarriage, the bolts that are so tight you’d swear someone welded them in place, it all takes a toll. Then there is the discouragement of those that bought faster, better built, newer Imprezas that always seem to pass us on the long straight at the track or squeeze out those extra tenths of a second while auto-crossing. “Those bastards! Once I swap my VX WRX/STI/RA motor I’ll be faster…” We’ve all been there. Some traded up because they’re sick of it or lost hope. One day it finally sunk in, despite the persistent resistance, “My RS/L/Brighton/Wagon/OBS is an inferior chassis.” Finally they succumb. “I’ll always love and miss my RS,” they say, “but a swap just wasn’t possible so I bought a WRX.” Threads like this pop up all the time and responses are mixed. Some look at it rationally and congratulate them on their new purchase while others label them as traitors, half joking but sometimes not. Despite the surprisingly successful “Fanboyism” thread there are still those that claim they’ll never sell, never leave the cult. They have pride that is easily mistaken as arrogance but they have the right! Their car paved the way for later models, for the WRC, made Subaru what it is today! I am one of the forsaken. The challenge and cost were too large for me. I wanted my car to be turbocharged. I wanted a stronger transmission. I wanted a quicker ratio steering rack. I wanted less compliant suspension bushings. I wanted larger sway bars. I wanted coilovers. The wants continued to build and so did the costs, to intimidating amounts. Then rationality set in. “Why should I spend all this money to make my intended econo-box as good as a STi?” That’s when my will was broken and hope was lost. That’s when I put my Impreza Wagon up for sale. Fast forward three months and there I am, a grin that looks to be splitting my face in half surfaces as I turn the key and start my new-to-me 2005 STi. The interior is ten times better! The sound of the exhaust is menacing! Good God, look at that hood scoop! It’s a sensory overload and I haven’t even let out the clutch and began moving. The initial drive signs the papers, finalizes the terms and agreement, stakes it’s claim; that face separating grin is here to stay. The ride is firm and tight like a car that is meant to be on a race track should feel. The handling is confidence inspiring to the point that I thought my chest was going to break the seat belt. Oh my, the power orgasmic! “I’m glad I decided to upgrade.” I say, not knowing that I’d be sitting here three months later contemplating whether I should keep my beloved STi or go back to the will breaking, money draining, soul rending state of owning a project car that I thought was once a lost cause. Everyone I talk to about this conundrum reacts the same way. “You just bought it!” “It’s everything you wanted!” “Tim, you make no sense.” I’ve heard it all before. The problem is that all the fun of the STi came too easily. I made a few phone calls and signed some paperwork then it was all mine. That was it. I don’t appreciate the crisp steering as much as I would if I installed those Whiteline steering rack bushings myself. I’m not as proud of the instantaneous power as I would have been if I had spent hours upon hours merging wiring harnesses and finessing that beefy turbocharged 2.5L motor in to an empty engine bay. I don’t appreciate the years of engineering put in to this car, the time spent testing it off the beaten path as much as I should. I don’t appreciate the blood, sweat and tears put in to this car because they are not my own. As the saying goes, “Without the bitter the sweet wouldn’t be as sweet.” I am a DIY Guy that likes to do things the hard way. I’ll end with a few encouraging words to those still struggling, those with their vision still vivid and full of hope. Don’t quit. Never stop. You are a unique breed that have ban together here to share your knowledge, gather information, ask for help, and whore your projects. Without you sites like this would diminish and the moral of the Subaru community surely would follow. You are the building blocks, the back bone of automotive enthusiasts and it should be known. You and your projects serve a high purpose than only your personal enjoyment, they are inspiring. One day I will rejoin you with another project car of my own. Until then, I salute you. original thread here: http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61226

boy, that's an awefully open-ended question. but...it's got a rather simple answer. since you didn't mention a budget, an EJ22k...350bhp from the factory. but, good luck finding one. only available in the 22b, only a handful made, and never imported into the US. my point? this is an extremely common question, and everyone wants an easy answer. but there isn't one. fact is, the answer isn't the same for everyone. each person wants a slightly different final result from their car, and each person has a different budget, and different skills. where it might make more sense for one man to buy a motor to put out the power he wants, it would make more sense for a different man to build one for less money to the same specs, because he has the experience and equipment to do it himself. we can't tell you exactly what combination will meet your needs best, but tell us more about your situation, and we can give recommendations. give us an idea as to your budget, skills, timeframe, and desires, and we'll help as best we can.