Numbchux

of course it did, like you said, wasn't a feedback carb, and wasn't designed to have a computer. my buddies '86 wagon isn't, and it run's awesome. my '85 ran like crap.....all the time.

never heard of a BP/BL....maybe the Liberty GX that I was referring to? EDIT: nevermind, BP/BL is the '05+ legacy and your link/img didn't work. the ones we're talking about were in early '90s cars. pretty sure just BC/BJ/BFs. EDIT AGAIN: according to Wikipedia, just the European and British Wagons got the D/R tranny....but I know they got them in Australia too.

huh, I did nothing about the fuel pump.....it 'worked'

the EJ D/Rs were full-time. they have the same center diff as any other EJ AWD subaru, but have a low range gearset on the input shaft before any of the other gears, and right above the front diff. on EA cars, it has a mechanical linkage that pushes the lever to engage it on EJ ones, it's a vacuum solenoid. I believe they're most commonly found on the Liberty GX

yea, I'm not sure if the ign advance is electric or vacuum though.... but it will run, I drove mine to school and work for the better part of a week like that.

feedback carbs will run......but insanely rich. when I first got my '85, I was working on it, and accidently blew the 'engine' fuse (which supplies power to the ECU), and it could barely move, and got about 8 mpg. you might be able to compensate for it somehow.....or swap to a weber and get it to work well.

I ran my car for about 4 months as FWD only (no rear end, just front half of the driveshaft....center diff locked). even in some snow.... it was OK, only problem was in 1st. I could easily roast a front tire at any speed in 1st. no chance of WOT acceleration. but for DD duty, it's fine. but in the long run, you'll want to go FT.

yep, threw the guys at Tires Plus a curveball....obviously the guy who filled out the slip wasn't the same guy who drove it, cause he checked it as an Auto trans although that wasn't half as funny as when he opened the hood.....

AFAIK, baja, outback, and forester will all yeild about the same height. but I believe early outback ('97?...maybe '99) stuff would fit easiest on your car.

you need to have a driveshaft plugged in the trans to keep the gear oil in.... but you can just run the front half of it. the carrier bearing mount will be the hardest part. you'll have to get pretty creative.

holy crap....so I did that, had google translate the page. and they sell EJ lift kits http://64.233.179.104/translate_c?hl=en&u=http://rocket-craft.com/lift_up_subaru/index.html&prev=/search%3Fq%3Drocket-craft.com%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26hs%3DYhj if that doesn't work.... http://rocket-craft.com/lift_up_subaru/index.html btw, according to the translator, the coupe is a Nissan Sunny RZ1 http://www.caramelist.com/Nissan/Sunny%20RZ1.html and some more subarus not already listed: the 360: http://rocket-craft.com/car/works_car53.html the Tommy Kaira '04-'05 STi: http://rocket-craft.com/car/works_car54.html '06+ legacy sedan: http://rocket-craft.com/car/works_car92.html Subaru Rex: http://rocket-craft.com/car/works_car126.html but this imp remains my favorite, and there are some sweet pictures of it and the lifted wagon here too: http://rocket-craft.com/car/works_car119.html

I'm talking about resetting more than just the codes. erase everything that it may have learned about it's new home. which, as far as I know, can only be done by unplugging it for long enough that that flash memory gets reset (overnight, at least).

my EJ22 loyale ran awesome on the stock pump (SPFI) until the dampner on the pump rusted through....btw, still ran awesome with a substantial leak replaced it with one for a turbo, and it runs the same. tony, might want to reset the ECU. with all this messing around with stuff trying to get it to start, you may have confused it. unplug the negative battery terminal overnight, and then give it a whirl..... this was a strong running motor in the donor car, wasn't it?

the EJ axle-back won't fit. the combination of an entirely different design (EAs go over the axle, EJs go under) and different wheel base makes it impossible. you can either bolt up the EA exhaust for a quite, perfectly fitting, and power-robbing exhaust, leave the axle-back (and muffler) off, or go full custom.

yep, the 1/4" drive one is what I have.....removed at least 6 stubs with this same socket

Said it before, and I'll say it again. I've had 1 EA82 wagon with an AA lift, and another with a BYB/Ozified one, and I've gotten parts from SJR aswell as talked to him about his design. if/when I build another lifted Subaru....it'll be an EA82 wagon with an SJR kit. reasoning: BYB: for those looking for a simple, well-built, easy to install lift kit, start wheeling hard and it'll rip your unibody to little pieces in no time flat. SJR: little more pricey, not as simple to install (requires some modification of things, and doesn't come with an extended steering shaft...), but without a doubt, the strongest you'll ever be able to make Subaru IFS. in fact, with his kit, I wouldn't be a bit worried about building some new, beefy control arms and radius rods (wouldn't think of it with a BYB one, the only thing keeping it from immediately destroying the framerails, is that the first few hard hits, the suspension just bends). AA is somewhere in the middle, decent price, just as well built as the other two, easy to install, stronger rear end than the BYB, but virtually identical front setup. http://www.sjrlift.com

I've heated them numerous times. it's hard on the seals, but it'll get 'em of for sure. one particular axle was soooo difficult, I ended up going to a buddies house, and we used the oxy/acetylene torch on it, got it red hot, and then hit it with the air hammer.....it came off eventually. the diff stubs have an E10 torx head. and obviously you need a deep offset socket. Snap-on makes one....

well, I was a little curious about this...so I did some research. Google FTW! looks like wheel hop is caused either by insufficient dampening, too much unsprung weight, or engine/tranny movement. well, since I doubt you added much weight to the control arm when you lengthened it....I'm going to ignore that one. but how are your struts? and are you running a pitch stopper? how about the engine and tranny mounts?

whew.....had me worried there for a minute! glad to hear it worked out, and we've all had our fair share of dumb mistakes. as for the fuel system, it doesn't need priming. if the fuel pump is getting fuel (i.e. tank has some in it, and line is not plugged) it will push it through to the engine (again, assuming the lines aren't plugged, and the pump is pumping the right direction). so, go back and double-check your wiring. you said you switched the wires around, right? I would suspect that red is + and black is ground. you're close! there's light at the end of that tunnel....and I think we can pretty safely say it's not a train :banana:

if the fuel pump is coming on, then there's something wrong with your testing methods at the relay.... unplug the main relay (brown, 6-pin), and check for power at the 2 large yellow wires. then plug in the main relay, and unplug the fuel pump relay (green plug, 4-pin), and check for power at the 2 yellow wires with the ignition on. the fuel pump cannot come on without power to both of them.

I'm confused....did you hear the fuel pump come on? if you don't have power at the large yellow wire on the fuel pump relay (should come straight form the main relay)....than the pump can't come on. so if you don't have power....you're obviously not going to have fuel....so check the fuse, than check for power at the main relay, than the fuel pump relay, than the few places on the engine.

bump stops keep you from bottoming out your shocks, which is extremely hard on them. do what you like, but your comparison is hardly relevant. your car is still setup for street use. while your SUV is engineered (even if it is a Kia) for offroad use much more than the subaru. but remove your bump stops (or install a lift....effectively same result) and sway bar, and you'd get another 4-5" of total flex....easy. do this with your sway bar and bump stops (which....as far as travel goes, is the only difference):

come again? it doesn't go away? or it doesn't happen?

on the rocks up here....momentum will get most of the car over the obstacle.....but you'll probably leave your wheels and much of the suspension before it

TCU = tranny control....if you're not using the EJ 4EAT....you won't be using those. and an unplugged wire = a cut wire, except ones alot messier! easiest way to find the dash wires, is with an ECU pinout (like the one included in the writeup). find what you're looking for, find the pin, trace the wire, and mark it.