Numbchux

Moosens described checking if the cam timing is correct My bet is that the crank and LH cam sprockets are incorrect. Pull the covers and check the crank sprockets (can be done without removing the timing belt) between the 2 engines. But yea, swap the manifold gaskets for the correct ones. Pull trouble codes before taking stuff apart.

Yea, I've heard of people filing grooves out of the cage/basket. But that typically locks the clutches on or off. The bang suggests to me that the clutches are working, but something is moving when they engage. I would closely inspect all rubber bushings/mounts before considering tearing into the transmission. It could also be worn clutches not engaging when they should. Or both....

Likely need to swap the crank and LH cam sprocket from the old engine. The tone wheels for the crank and cam sensors are part of those sprockets, and there are a couple different patterns.

Flashing CEL is an active misfire. You can't just clear it, you have to repair the fault first.

I'm not aware of a write-up. All FAs and FBs will be largely similar. Newer ones have direct injection (mechanical fuel pump) and electronic thermostat that you don't have to worry about. Engine out, for sure. Timing cover/chains off. Valve covers, cam carriers and then heads off. We see a ton of leaking upper oil pans and oil level switches (might not apply if it's a Forester), so I would recommend pulling that all and resealing it while the engine is out. There are a bunch of Orings and such, but most of the job is FIPG. Using it correctly and adequately is crucial to a successful repair, too much and you clog your oil passages, not enough and it leaks more than it did before. I've seen trained, but new, Subaru technicians need a couple tries to get the timing cover to seal completely.

Recalls are only for life threatening conditions. Even warranty extensions and class action lawsuits expire. The fix is tighter piston rings. Replacing piston rings in a mechanical shop is costly and time consuming, makes more sense to just swap it for an updated shortblock. Either way, tighter rings will reduce fuel mileage. If you know a GOOD mechanic (not a guy who worked on a Chevy once) who will give you a screaming deal on his time, the engine can be rebuilt. Probably $800ish in parts from your local dealership, but a LOT of labor. Or $3k in parts from the dealer for a shortblock and gaskets, and then only a bunch of labor (and still skilled labor. Cam carrier and timing chains will leak the first few times a person does them). I've heard of people retrofitting used engines from slightly newer cars with a few minor modifications. Might be worth looking into. But consult with the shop you're likely to use, as that can be a can of worms that leads to endless headaches for everybody, so they might not want to touch it. Or, just live with it. My mom bought a 2012 Impreza years ago with about 20k miles on it, but a salvage title (no warranty, even extensions. Only recalls). She drove it for about 200k miles before the CVT failed. She had to add a quart or more between every single oil change. We would buy a case of 0w-20, and always keep a quart in the trunk, and tuck a small funnel and rag into the engine bay next to the battery. Learn the difference between oil level and oil pressure warning lights. Oil level warning doesn't mean stop right now, you can wait until the next fuel stop. Oil consumption is a symptom of looser tolerances and lighter oils, which all manufacturers are using to try to meet the demand for fuel economy. This is not uncommon. And complexity of repair is definitely universal on modern cars.

Nobody click the links in the post above! New member, edited post. Sketchy AF

Nobody click the links in the post above! New member, edited post. Sketchy AF

Probably transfer clutches. Get them new, and fix it. You don't have to pull the transmission, and a used trans is likely to also have worn clutches. Also inspect all rear suspension and diff bushings. AWD could be engaging normally, but a bushing is clunking when it's loaded.

The painted bumper looks great

I got a SOHC EJ20 a couple years ago for an '01 Forester. The donor engine was much newer than that. SOP is to swap the intake manifold, and all wiring/sensors/injectors/throttle body/coil/etc from your old engine. Oil pan will likely be different, leaving more room for the larger cat, swap it for more capacity, or don't. Good idea to do plugs, valve cover gaskets, oil separator and timing while it's out. It will almost certainly have a 7mm oil pump, so I would swap to a 9 or 10. BUT, read the fine print from the seller, as removal of anything sometimes can void the warranty. I bought through eBay, as that would have some standardized way to look at seller history and feedback. And as a result, there is some incentive for them to make things right if things went sideways. I also paid with a credit card through paypal, so I would have 2 ways to dispute the charge. I've heard so many horror stories over the years about importers that send out junk, leave customers out to dry, and then change their name after a couple years and some bad publicity.

That's how you know there's oil in them, right?

Yea, level switch on Imprezas and Leg/OBKs was just for a warning light. But it got people to come in to the dealer and complain long before the engine blew up. I don't like that it comes on when the engine is about .5 quart low, but it might have saved me a couple engines in my life.... Yea, the bulletin and warranty extension was for -14 cars, and a few 15s. But we've done plenty of newer ones. It's certainly improved, though.

11-14 Foresters did not have an oil level switch/warning light. It was very common to see catastrophic failure on those, as they typically got driven until they burned so much that they lost pressure. Modern cars have so many modules that stay active even with the key off, it's pretty crucial that they get driven.

We've seen them get bad enough to wreck the AF sensor, because that's right under the RF corner of the engine.

CANBUS was mandatory in all US vehicles since 2008 (most adopted it several years before that) I think both engines have their advantages. The FB is less likely to need anything, but a bigger job to do (to do almost anything on the FB, you have to remove the timing chain cover and chains). Take care of them, keep on top of the oil changes (I see VVT solenoids gummed up on both engines). Throw that Sham oil filter in the dump with the rest of the filthy cardboard and use a Tokyo Roki from the dealer, or WIX. The EJ will leak oil externally. The FB will probably leak it and/or burn it. Neither car has a low oil level indicator (just pressure), so check the dipstick periodically, and they'll do fine.

This has stuck with me through the years. I haven't tried it, but it makes sense to get nice square force on the inner race. I broke one apart at a camp site once, and it took forever to do with just a hammer and socket extension.

That's for a brand-new OEM one. Pretty normal for a new OEM alt to be upper 3 digits. 23700AA37AR1 is the remanufactured version, which has an MSRP of $309.52 and $50 core.

Yea, GDs got 2 facelifts (and sedans got flared fenders, so sedans and wagons have different fenders and front bumpers). You can swap the entire front clip 02-07 with some modification to the core supports. You could also use a Saab 9-2x front clip, if you could find one. 04-05 headlights should all be interchangeable (there are likely a few different headlights that fit in that opening depending on trim. I know the STis had HIDs, etc.)

Master Cylinders should be bench bled before installation. so you've likely pushed a lot of air into the system. If your car has a hill holder (definitely on MT GLs, I never had a MT Loyale), there's a bleeder on that.

Taller sidewall with the same wheel diameter = taller overall tire. 225 and 205 are widths. Second number is sidewall height as a percentage of the width. That likely has a 225/40r18. Going to a 205/45r18 likely has the same sidewall height, because it's a percentage. Tire rack does not list a smaller wheel option on the website, but they're the same 296mm front rotors that they've used forever, so I would think you should be able to go down to a 16 easily.

$20 says that post will be edited in the next week to add a link to a sketchy website

Nope, not without major modification (probably easier to fab from scratch) I've heard of people using the standard EA82 crossmembers, and modifying them to accept the EJ center piece.

I've had numerous sets of Blizzaks that are approaching 10 years old still looking good because I store them out of the sun. My only hands-on experience with X-ices have been on a stage rally car, so I can't speak to treadwear 😜 The Nokian rep (grain of salt) will be quick to tell you that the Hakka is the only winter tire that is the softer compound through the entire depth of the tread, all the others get harder, and will essentially be an all season by about 7/32" (50% useable wear, most start with 10/32 and should be replaced by 4/32). I don't know if I buy that, but I do prefer Hakkas. The forester wheels will likely be higher offset and maybe even narrower, so they will be set back in the wheel wells a bit. Might complicate strut clearance, but you're running small tires.

Yep. I had the first AA lift, which didn't drop the rear crossmember like the BYB/PJD ones did (woa....I think that was 18 years ago...yuck). The rear suspension pivots around that front bushing, which is basically right at the front lower corner of the bodywork. So the tire swings forward from the centerline of the wheel well, but I don't think it gets any closer to the sheet metal. But maybe a not-rusty rocker (what's that?) would stick down a bit below that bushing and be a problem. I can't quite picture how it would all work