Numbchux

I assume the 4 long bolts without the sleeves are for the engine crossmember bolts.

What a mess, with the crap on the front of the cover, I'd say it's coming from higher up. Front main seal, probably. Clean that thing off. You'll never pinpoint it with dirt and oil everywhere like that. Get a can or 2 of engine cleaner, grab a pair of ramps, and head to a coin-op car wash.

4-cylinder, I ASSume? Those are wasted spark, meaning if the coil was bad, it would effect #3 and #4 The FSM diagnostic page for P030x is 5 pages long, checking wiring, power supply, injector, vacuum leak, spark plug, compression, etc. If you know the plugs are good, I'd swap the injectors on that side, and pull the vacuum line off the regulator (vacuum dumps right into the #3 plenum). If it doesn't follow the injector, print out that diagnostic, get your DMM, and start testing.

99 22E has the former. They stopped the latter style in 1994.

You got it. Leave the cross tube up against the body out of harm's way! Looks complete to me. Just need a steering shaft extension, and a little creativity in the engine bay to make sure all the cables and hoses reach.

Off the top of my head, I think the pins are different lengths. So use a screwdriver or something to probe them out to see which hole is deeper.

The only manifold that goes out the side that I can think of is turbo. Anything is possible with enough effort, usually easier to reuse what you have, though. EDIT: forgot you have a 2.2, so it's single port. You may have to get a 2.5 manifold from a Legacy, Forester, or 2.5RS.

I'll say again. Your 2001 has no factory module that could enable this. You would have to retrofit a Body Integrated Module from a newer car (controls a LOT more than just the dome light, including power locks, probably would need the entire bulkhead harness). According to cars101, that was a new feature on the 2002 model.

Sounds like the perfect deal. My last set of Blizzaks was after I discovered Hakkas, but they were the size I needed for a great price. When I worked at the dealership, we swapped out factory-equipped tires on a regular basis. Frequently for Nokian WRG3/WRG4s, which are an aggressive all-season. Yea, based on your description, I would be adjusting those headlights down, regardless of what the dealership says. Do you regularly have any extra weight in the back? Obviously that would tilt the headlights up more.

I've been running dedicated snow tires for about 15 years, and about 10 of them on at least 2 cars (since I met my wife). I've crewed for Rally teams at SnoDrift 6 years, and I've spent hundreds of hours ice racing on numerous tires. They will make a huge difference. Even the cheapest, off-brand, dedicated snow tire will perform better on snow and ice than the best all season. That said, they're not all equal, some have larger openings between lugs, better for snow (the original Winterforce, or Yokohama A034 competition tire), some have a lot of siping to grip on the ice. I live out in the country, but very rarely find myself in more than a dusting of snow beyond my driveway, so I'm concerned mostly with ice performance. Studs and chains are not legal here. IMHO, Nokian Hakkapeliitta tires cannot be beat. I've owned Qs, Rs, and 2 sets of R2s, and will be buying a set of R3s before this season is out. Michelin X-Ice and Bridestone Blizzak are close behind. Nokian is a little weird about who can distribute them, so it may take some shopping around, whereas Michelin and Bridestone can be bought just about anywhere. Beyond that I've used Cooper Weathermaster, Firestone Winterforce, Goodyear UltraGrip Ice, and General Altimax Arctic and been pretty similarly impressed. I also had a set of Falken Eurowinters, and was pretty unimpressed. Still better than an all season, but not much. I also highly recommend having a separate set of wheels. Not only does it save the cost and wear of mounting and balancing, but the hassle as well. Tire shops up here are booked out for weeks this time of year, so you either have to put your snows on early and run them in warmer temperatures than you should, or drive in the first few snows on your all-seasons. When they first forecast a decent snowfall, I spend an hour or so in the garage the night before swapping the snows onto both our cars. And I can swap them off as soon as temperatures start to warm up, and occasionally have to swap them back if we get a late spring storm. If you only run them when the ground temperatures are below about 40, they will generally last 30-50k miles.

On the newer models with the delayed dim, it is run through the Body Integrated Module. The '00-'01s (and maybe '02s, I'll know when I start digging into my "new" VDC) do not have a BIM. Retrofitting the factory system would be a big job. I think there are aftermarket circuits that can be wired in to offer that feature pretty simply.

The question is whether your Impreza has a phase 1 EJ22E or phase 2 EJ222. I think it should be an EJ222. If so, you can use the EJ203, best practice is to swap the intake manifold/wiring from the old engine to the new, and the crank and LH cam sprocket (as the tone wheels can be different for the sensors). If it's an EJ22e, you should be able to use any 2.2 back to 1990, again, swap the intake and wiring over. Your 2.2 will have single port exhaust, so you'll need a dual port manifold. The other major difference to watch for is EGR valve. I don't know the pattern to which engines did and did not have it, but if yours has it, it'll be plumbed into a port on the head. Ideally you get a donor engine with one, but if not, it can be blocked off (might be an issue if you have emissions/inspections), head drilled and tapped, or plumbed into the exhaust.

Yep, the early EJ ECUs are not different. There will be a pin labeled AT/MT Identifier. Off the top of my head, I think the AT harnesses don't have a pin there, so you'll have to remove a pin that you're not using (several for the automatic that are good) and add it to that spot, and ground it. This is not completely necessary, but it will help prevent codes, and change a few settings that improve driveability with a manual. But these are still simple enough to run pretty well if they thing they're still an auto.

Right at the pivot between strut and knuckle wouldn't take much to be off by a degree, so you may not be able to spot it, but it might be fixed with new struts. The parts counter at the Subaru dealership where I worked was right in front of the alignment rack, it wasn't uncommon for techs to ask one of us to come out and pull on a tire while they tightened the bolts to get the camber in range, because the camber bolts couldn't quite get it there. But it was always pulling the camber towards the positive, as the stock stuff was too far negative.

.8 degrees would probably require an inch of movement at the top mount....you would have other symptoms... If it's out of range of the camber adjustment, then something is bent. Control arm would be noticeably buckled before it would cause that much of a difference. Knuckle is far stronger than the strut. There are aftermarket camber bolts that can be used, either to replace the factory one, or in addition to (replace the lower bolt). Or, try a new strut.

According to Cars101, 2007 was the last year of a base Legacy wagon. That was also the death of the Outback Sedan http://www.cars101.com/subaru/legacy/legacy2008.html When it came time to replace my mom's 2001 Legacy, we moved her into an Impreza, it's almost the exact same size as her old 1992 Legacy (her favorite car). Of course, those were Sedans, I don't think the Impreza hatch offers the same cargo area as a Legacy wagon. Only 19 more years until you can import a Levorg...

In 2004 and 2005, they added the EJ259 for California Emissions that was considerably different then the EJ251. I assume that's the PZEV version you're referring to. Any other differences between a Federal and California emission car would be small (I know on the BD/BG cars, the California cars got a 3rd Cat...stuff like that). But the EJ259 has single port exhaust similar (but not the same) to the EZ30D. Electronic throttle, and more. I would avoid that one unless it's a deal.

Yep, pretty awesome feature. Was true about some of the BD/BG models, too. I remember the day I pointed it out on my friend's '98 LGT (he's owned that car for ~12 years, maybe more). I was very disappointed when I discovered they stopped it for '04 (I now own 2 '04 Outbacks). Easy enough to swap out, though.

Wasn't super impressed with Torque Lite. My preference is the Android app "Piston"

Yep, all way over my head, but probably doable. I think what made what presslabs did very cool, was adding it into the software on the factory TCU, and still retaining the factory automatic functionality. But with microsquirt and arduinos doing what they can these days, it would probably be infinitely easier to make a standalone controller.

No, I never did. Someone pulled out in front of me and wrecked the car...still have it and would like to use it as a dedicated RallyX car, but only need 1st for that. Also, I will probably get one of these for my 4Runner transmission, I think the Nissan/GM version would control a Subaru transmission just fine, and likely could be run in parallel to the factory TCU to retain AWD function. For the record, the EJ 4-cylinder engine is at least as discontinued as the EZ 6-...Yes, the EJs are more common, but I've had no trouble getting everything I need for EZ30s. This isn't an EG33 or ER27. I've been reading a lot about capacitor failure in '90s Toyotas (to the point that I replaced the 12 caps in my 1UZ ECU as part of swapping it into my 4Runner), and my '94 Ford 351 Van. I'm kind of curious to open up some Subaru control units and see what the caps look like in those. I haven't experienced any troubles like that, though. Center diffs do fail, but it's not a terrible job to replace them (don't have to remove the transmission), and there's a guy in Europe that can rebuild them (even modify to be stronger) for a reasonable price. Yes, you can read a bunch of live data through OBD II. Definitely can't read oil pressure (there is no sensor, just the switch for the idiot light), don't think there is transmission temperature either. But you can view ignition timing, fuel trims, coolant temperature etc. I have a cheap (<$20) dongle that I tether with my phone to read a ton of information.

It's about the same time, but I don't know if it's the exact correlation. And occasionally, if a shop bought pads/rotors/calipers, they might convert the car from one system to the other without knowing.

www.car-part.com, take a look in your area. Here's the driver's side defrost vent. on the '00-'03 ones (and previous body styles), it can be flipped between sending air along the LH window or to send extra onto the windshield right in front of the driver. I'm driving a 2004 these days, and boy was I wishing I had it this morning (25*F), I'll probably steal it from my '00 parts car. 20170211_104858 by Numbchux, on Flickr Mid-2002 got a front brake size upgrade and center console change. 2004 VDCs all have on-star. All minor things that are easy enough to change (I have swapped all of those things one way or the other on all my cars), but if I were to pick one that's as close to perfect as it can be out of the box, it'd be a 2003. The FWD fuse on the MPT models is exactly for that purpose. No such function exists on the VDC ones.

The MPT cars are a FWD transmission, using a hydraulically-controlled clutch pack to send power to the rear. No pressure on that clutch, no power to the rear axle. The VTD cars have a true mechanical center diff, with spider gears, sending power to both front and rear. They use the exact same clutch discs as the MPT, but their function is only to limit slip, not as the sole transfer of torque. Example, it's very well documented with some basic wiring modification to lock up those clutch discs on an MPT car. I tried the same thing on our VDC, and cannot tell the difference. Have they failed? Is the layout so effective that it doesn't matter? I'm really not sure.

Can be done several ways. SJR makes a plate to lower the back of the diff from the mustache bar (seen in the upper middle of this picture of his kit). AA and BYB both used blocks between the mustache bar mount and the frame rail. While the axle output is so much closer to the rear mount, the biggest effect on axle angle will happen from dropping the rear mount. BUT, I didn't like the angle the diff was at in mine, so my AA-lifted EA82 and my DIY lifted Brat I spaced down the diff from the front hanger (removed the 4 studs from the bracket and replaced with longer bolts. SJR made a cool cast spacer for my EA82 years ago, but on the Brat my buddy just turned up 4 spacers from round steel stock).