Numbchux

Moog was bought out by Federal Mogul several years ago, they're just another aftermarket suspension component. I bought a few Moog ball joints within a short period, and they all failed within a year. When I was working at Autozone, I bought a few of their Duralast-branded ones (TRW, IIRC), similar. OEM should have no trouble reaching 100k miles. Drilling out broken pinch bolts is one thing, I've had a couple that were so stubborn, it cracked the ear that the pinch bolt goes through when I was trying to release it.

Quote out OEM Ball joints (don't forget, they don't come with castle nut, cotter pin, and pinch bolt). I've had pretty poor luck with aftermarket ones and I think the OEM ones are pretty reasonable. And wrecked knuckles changing them. The nails in place of cotter pins would likely indicate an aftermarket ball joint, so keep an eye on them.

Clunking is frequently sway bar related, usually end links, but sometimes bushings as well. Super easy to tell....just disconnect one link, that will unload the bar across that axle and the noise should go away. If not, look elsewhere. That rear control arm bushing is fluid filled, so the fluid is likely coming out of the bushing, and will likely only get worse. I believe those can be replaced independently from the control arm (it's certainly possible, I'm not sure if they're available seperately).

Wagon? or Sedan? The wording "trunk" makes me think Sedan, but the talk of the spoiler sounds more like that on the lift gate of a wagon. If so, those plastic spoilers on the top of the gate break off with a little ice build-up, and once it breaks off there's nowhere for the high mount brake light to mount, and the mounting holes will leak into the gate and exacerbate the already-common rear gate harness failure. Those spoilers aren't too terribly priced from the dealership, but they come un-painted. I'd go hitch- or roof-mount

Yep, can't stress this enough. The old studs rust, and then thread out of the head. A 10x1.25 thread repair tap is a great idea (careful with a thread cutting tap, as it will take off more material...not really a good thing). I just did this job on my '00, and while it turned out the problem was really a broken weld under the heat shield right by the head, but I replaced the gaskets and hardware while I was there. I was thinking it might be nice to use Toyota studs, which have a torx end on them, so they can be more easily tightened down into the head to ensure complete thread engagement before really putting any clamping force on them.

There are dozens, if not hundreds, of ways to do the install. But the short answer is that if you drop the EG33 in place of an EJ engine, and then try to mount a radiator in it's stock position, they will occupy the same space. Most people use some sort of aftermarket/custom radiator mounted in front of, or in place of (switching to hood pins) the hood latch. It will sit in the stock motor mounts and bolt to any Impreza transmission. If not completely abused, a good condition 5MT will hold up fairly well. If you want to drive it hard, you might want to look into a 6MT. This stuff has been done thousands of times (transmission swap information is largely unchanged whether it's bolted to a H6 or H4). It will require some custom exhaust work, but that's not a big deal. If you can't fab it yourself, there are muffler shops in every town that can do that. I don't know of any shops that would tackle the whole project. But there are people who can do the wiring. iwire certainly can, but I saw a post the other day that made it sound like they didn't want the job (high price, etc.). "EG33 Swap" obviously gets you a huge amount of information, but some of it is getting pretty dated. For the most current projects, the Facebook group "Six Swapped Subarus" has quite a bit, there's probably a dozen guys on there with the time and knowledge to do a harness merge for you. For parts, there are 2 SVX (nation, and world network) with plenty of parts hoarders.

Well...XT6 is a bit different being 5-lug.

Can be bolted into just about any Subaru (in the US, everything except the 360 and Justy with very little work). Will bolt to any EJ/EZ/FA/FB transmission (basically anything since 1990, EA82 hung around in the Loyale until 1994). Will bolt to an EA81/EA82 transmission with an adapter plate. It's considerably longer than any other engine, so depending on the chassis, radiator will have to be moved at least a little. The challenging part is the electronics. Do you have the ECU and wiring harness? I assume there was some sort of plan on running it in the plane. The bulkhead harness (behind the dash, running up into the engine bay) has to be removed and considerably modified to graft the ECU and it's wiring for the 3.3 into the receiving car. Fairly common swap into the '90s models, as they're much lighter. A '90s Impreza with a 3.3 will walk away from a stock STi in a straight line. Engine code is an EG33. Google "EG33 Swap" will yield a flood of information, and obviously you can refine it down from there. Not much market for them. SVXs were notorious for transmission issues, and the engines are very stout, so there's lots of them out there. Service parts are becoming scarce, most can still be sourced, but in 5-10 years? Probably not.

I believe that to be correct. That's the only change in the components at the wheels. Front calipers are all the same, just whether it has disc or drum in the rear. So I would assume the larger diameter one goes with the discs. The cars without hill holder have 4 ports, and with hill holder have 3. And M10 inverted brake plug could adapt a 4-port to 3-.

Very different cars. I wheeled lifted EA82s for years, and was in the middle of building a 25:1 Subaru 5MT for my Brat. Then I took our stock '04 Outback H6 VDC to the local offroad park (old iron ore pit mine, VERY rocky and technical), and did a lot of the same trails, in comfort, with the A/C on, with the torque converter I was able to just gently drive over obstacles that would have been a dance on the pedals and a cloud of clutch smoke. On the terrain I'm used to, at least, I don't want a clutch offroad unless the crawl ratio is AT LEAST 100:1, preferably more like 150:1. Can't touch that in a Subaru. But, from what I understand of sand driving with an auto, it generates a ton of heat which pretty quickly becomes a problem. So consider the terrain at those local parks, as well. I also don't miss street driving my EA82s, the Outback is a freakin Bentley by comparison.

Yea, the reman shortblocks are a decent deal, comes semi loaded with oil and water pumps, I think oil pan and more. If you're looking for used ones. Yea, the EJ251/EJ252 from about '99-'05. I THINK the only thing to watch for (other than the 04-05 California EJ259), is the EGR pipe. If your car has an EGR, you'll want to get a replacement with one...

Yep, transmission cooler. Might just be the rubber hose, but that steel line looks pretty rusty, so I'd bet it's leaking from further up. I can probably offer more, but best I know what car you have...

Is that a remote reservoir system? or is the reservoir right on top of the pump? Either way, it sounds like it's sucking air. The hose on the remote reservoir ones gets hard and doesn't seal when it's cold, a screw clamp can do wonders there, as the formed hose from Subaru is not cheap, there's also an oring between the hose adapter and pump. The reservoir on the pump has an oring between it, a new pump should have come with that oring, though.

Look in your owners manual. If the remote can be programmed, the instructions will be there. I concur with GD about the immobilizer key. Get it from the dealer, and get a couple. If you have no working keys, you'll be towing the car to the dealership, paying them to remove the gauge cluster and at least one other module (not the same for every model, and even with I worked at the dealer I didn't have it memorized) to be sent into Subaru and reset. Yea...do it right the first time. The dealership I worked at charged one programming fee, didn't matter if you were programming 1 key or 3. This is not a standardized fee, though, so call your local dealership and see what they charge.

Sounds like the belt is not tight enough. It shouldn't be able to move noticeably.

Exactly right. I don't think I ever knew the pattern on what years/models had what. I think on the one with 3 connectors, the other 2 were the same as a 2 connector model, and the 3rd was all grounds....but I could be wrong. Best to just keep it together if at all possible.

Yea, please post the whole story if you want some more in-depth information. To answer your original question. The engine management is integrated into the bulkhead harness, so you need all of that from a 1st gen Legacy. The connectors between the bulkhead harness and engine harness changed a few times, so best to get the engine harness, too. Of course, it would be easiest to get it from a Turbo Legacy. The difference between a turbo and non-turbo harness is very small. The Cam and Crank wires are swapped at the ECU, and the temperature sensors are on the other side of the motor. On those, the ECU is not specific to Auto or Manual, but the harness is. I'd rather modify a non-turbo harness to the turbo, then modify an auto to manual. Of course, if you're stripping it down to merge into another car, it won't much matter. And yes, it will have to be used. These forums (here and legacycentral are probably your best bet) are getting slow, but you still might find something in the classifieds. Facebook groups are great for buying odd parts. Or, junkyards.

Check the gear ratios, in case you need the rear diff. Yes, starter is different. Flywheel bolts are longer, too, although those are the same as EJ, probably can get them right from Subaru. Front half of the drive shaft, at least. Though, if you separate the halves, you should rebalance the assembly. Easiest to just grab the whole thing. That should be it off the top of my head (grain of salt, the 3AT->5MT swap I did was about 15 years ago). Only MPFI in that vintage was a turbo. And only Turbo/dual range combo was the RX Coupe. Fairly safe bet that GL Wagon isn't.

Everything you need can come from that car.

Loyale is Old-gen. Very different to the EJ platform that began with the '90 Legacy.

That is an EA82 body, which started in 1985, you have to be a bit careful, because the Brats and hatchbacks carried EA81 body until 1987 in the US. Generally, EA82 stuff is all the same, although the crossmember will have to be 1987.5+. Yep, you'll need the crossmember under the transmission, driveshaft, starter, flywheel, clutch, shift linkage, center console/shift boot (the Loyales didn't have a console, just a boot on the floor, where the GLs had a console), clutch cable. Speedometer cable is a different length, but I think the AT one is longer, so you can just use it. If your new transmission is a push button 4WD, you'll need the vacuum hoses and solenoids for those, and you'll need to run some wires to make that all work. The gauge cluster requires considerable rewiring....don't bother. Most 5MT 4WD EA82 transmissions use a 3.9 rear diff, I think your 3AT will use a 3.7, should be a sticker right on it, though. You'll want to verify what's in it, and your donor and make sure they match. On the off chance your donor transmission is from a turbo car, it'll be 3.7 and require 25 spline axles, so you'd need turbo axles. If you're going to bother, get a dual-range 4WD transmission from a 87-89 GL.

No need. 3 year old thread, dredged up by a 1 post member with an advertisement link in the text....probably not a real inquiry.

good catch, I missed that line. Yep, definitely a 3AT, then.

Morrie's Minnetonka Subaru. MSRP on them is pretty reasonable, and I think they're still doing a discount for MN Subaru (just have to ask).

Your shifter will either have D, 2, 1 or D, 3, 2 with a button for 1 hold. My '89 XT6 4EAT definitely has lockup. I don't believe the 4EAT was available before '87.5, as the transmission tunnel got bigger specifically for that. I think the 3AT in my old Loyale had lockup, but I was in highschool when it still had an auto. IF it doesn't have it, it would be very hard to retrofit, as it is controlled via a solenoid in the valve body and passages. You'd have to swap out for the EJ transmission, which requires some modification.