Numbchux

short background story: I deliver for Domino's, and here in Duluth there's a scenic railroad that goes up the North Shore of Lake Superior. well, once a day, they run what they call the Pizza Train, where they serve Domino's pizza on the train. Anyway...once a day we have to bring pizzas down there. today was a nice day....so an extremely large order. long story short....61 pizzas in my wagon: each one of those big bags holds 10 large pizzas, there are 6 of them, plus one more in the little bag on the top. still had room for my spare tire, tools, and all my extra parts/fluids

I don't see why that would be....the springs are the same size. I don't have the upper spring perch though (using the perch for my coilovers), so I can't say for sure. I can say the lower perch looks waaayyyy different, so I don't think you could use leone springs on the legacy shock BUT, I do have an update. I bought the full suspension from a 2003 legacy BE sedan from a guy on SL-i.net with 50k miles on it for $80 (putting off aftermarket suspension for the summer....got other expenses). it just arrived today. I a shock off of my loyale, made some comparisons, and took some pictures. full shot, loyale on left, legacy on right: the tops, you can see how the legacy one is a thicker diameter... the difference in hole size on the bottom (this one's easy....just a bushing): here's the upper spring perch from my coilovers....fits perfectly over the shaft on the shock, and fits perfectly on the spring. so if I can just get the tophat on there somehow....I might not have to worry about the spring perch part.

well, I've heard of numerous twin turbo EJs, successfully installed in LHD cars. I've heard of a few twin charged EJs. and doug (reddevil) even ran twin superchargers on his legacy for awhile. as mentioned, the bore is different from 18 to 20....so the pistons won't fit without substantial overboring (which would be a baaaaad idea on an open deck block...unless you're sleeving......in which case, just start with a stronger block).

RS ones will too. I have a set of '02 RS 2 pistons that work with most 15" alloys.

you sure about that? I know that XT6 calipers will not easily bolt up to legacy knuckles (Baccaruda used that combo to maintain front handbrake on his 5-lug setup). AND, I know that when XT6 guys talk about getting better rotors, they talk about ones for cavaliers, not other subarus. you can, however, put legacy knuckles, axles and struts on either the loyale or XT6 (loyale will require XT6 brakes in the rear to match lug patterns all around). which will give you better alignment adjustment, better front strut availability, and much better front brake availability (I will be running '92 legacy front knuckles on my loyale with '02 2.5RS 2-piston front brakes) problem is, legacies have rear handbrake, so if you replace your front brakes with legacy equipment, you'll lose your handbrake. you can convert to rear handbrake using nissan SX (200 or 240) equipment, though.

well, the ebrake drum part makes things very complex. just swapping to rear discs on an EJ series car requires swapping the whole knuckle, which is not easily possible on an EA car. you could loose the drum mechanism.....but then you'll loose the ebrake. I've been thinking about trying to make a caliper bracket (to replace the backing plate) to mount a 2-pot caliper with ebrake mechanism built in (Z-car maybe... ). I also plan to have my XT6 calipers cryo-treated.

depends what subie you're referring to. I can think of many EJ-series engines with some belt-driven boost....

I get that code....and it runs awesome. has for about 10k miles

thank you I've never had working A/C in any of my own cars. I've got power windows. I don't live in the hottest part of the country, but it does get very humid, and I work out of my car......put about 400 miles on it a week. that said, I would someday like to have working A/C. but I don't have a working compressor for this motor, I don't have a condenser that's worth re-using, etc.

the problem is that a lift kit involves more than just strut tops. like PK said, the suspension varies slightly, and different kits would probably need to be made (and there are differences between imps and legacies). and, there are no easy struts that allow room for bigger tires. even with outback struts, you'll be rubbing on the spring perches before you have to do any serious fender trimming (meaning a lift wouldn't help....).

he's a member of these boards. I had a BYB lifted wagon for awhile. definitely a very well-built kit! I didn't think it was very well-designed....but if it's an EJ lift you want, that's a different story.

nah, I think it looks good with the rally stance (if only the 'rally stance' was from rally suspension)

yea, I should have been more specific. Gen 1 legacies (like the donor car listed above)

except they're over by the battery on a legacy.... other than that, great info.

I got the Castrol and Pennzoil at the first auto parts store I went to (O'reiley's/bumper to bumper). but wound up searching all over town for the Redline. ended up going to a garage out in the boonies that builds viper race cars that carried a full line of Reline stuff. plan to do engine and tranny mounts this summer along with Poly bushings in the drivetrain.

so, some of you may or may not have heard of Uncle Scotty's cocktail (I believe originated on NASIOC). anyway, it's a mixture of a few different gear oils that really helps shifting in subaru trannies. there's some debate as to the original formula, but the one that I've heard more commonly is: 1 qt Redline Lightweight Shockproof 1qt Pennzoil Synchromesh 2qt Castrol HypoyC 80w90 the redline shockproof and the synchromesh are the more important ones.... anyway, I just switched from 3.5qt valvoline 85w90 and .5qt of rislone to the above listed cocktail. and have noticed a definite improvement. my synchro's are getting pretty worn, specifically 3rd gear. and I can easily and reliably get it into third without a bit of grinding now with the cocktail. the problem isn't gone......but it's definitely better. I think I may switch my dad's fluid over to that aswell ('94 Legacy 5MT. when we bought it, couldn't get it into 2nd gear.....rislone fixed that...but some improvement could still be had).

my 4" AA lifted '88 wagon on 27.5" tires had a hair shy of 13" at the rear diff my 3" BYB lifted '88 wagon on 29s had about 10.5"

I was thinking as I was working on pinksock's one last night....I should get a nice video camera and make a little DVD of how to do this. even better to have a little seminar at the show! heck....someone should bring a camera and record it!

sorry skip....can't be. as far as I can tell, only OBD II cars have problems without a VSS. I've been running mine without since last August, easily put 10k miles on it now. that's about all I can offer.... maybe something's funny with the alt (whether the unit itself, or the wiring). how's your voltage while this is all happening?

that's true.... but I don't understand why you guys are all bent out of shape about the wing. if you're going to do the rally paint job, the STi-style wing is crucial (and so is a hood scoop). that thing with a built 257, a 6-speed, and some gold BBS's (with the big Brembo's behind them) would be amazing!!!

nope. you want the extra rotating mass for offroading. maybe have it resurfaced, but don't take any more off it than you have to. best source for a donor motor is a donor car. and a great source for one of those is craigslist. 88hatchmonster makes awesome adapter plates. check him out here: http://www.mroseusa.com you can do the flywheel yourself. just go to sears, and buy a $30 plug-in rotary tool (imitation dremel) and a few extra grinding stone bits. and have at it. be very patient with it. and make sure you take enough material off. the bolts should slip easily into place. 91Loyale, you're not the only one who enjoys FWD burnouts.....the local civic and neon guys seem to love it IMHO, wheelspin belongs in the same category as underglow neons. all show, no go....

that is weird.....I've never seen anything like that. the injectors should be getting power all the time. the yellow wire with a red stripe should get power on all 4. the other wire pulses ground from the ECU. is your fuel pump turning on? is it's circuit wired through the ECU? the fuel pump circuit is the #1 indicator of whether your ECU is getting power and ground everywhere it needs to. because it doesn't matter whether the sensors or anything are working or not, if the computer is getting power where it should, it'll turn on that fuel pump relay. if that's not happening, you've got a problem in the harness somewhere.

just make sure they're mounted far enough back to avoid shining on the windshield. if it reflects off the windshield, it'll reduce visibility drastically!

haha, way cool! I love the Brumble Bee!!

'85 and '86 4WD models. hard to find replacements for though... RX springs have a higher spring rate, and will yield a bit of lift in the front as well.