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Everything posted by Numbchux
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need more than the hubs, but not the whole arm. the rotors are different (5 lug holes instead of 4...), and the rotors are also larger, so you need the backing plate to push the caliper out a bit further. but the calipers are the same and the trailing arms are too. baccaruda....I'd love to get my hands on some trailing arms with sway bar mounts....but I've been looking, and asking in every partout thread for about 4 months, and still don't have any :-\
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EA81 rears are easy. because they use torsion bars, the shock is easily replaceable with a longer travel version. A buddy and I are working on an '84 brat, and we cross-referenced the application from the Rancho pt # RS5241 that's listed on the SJRlift site, to be a TJ wrangler rear with 2.5" of lift. using that application, we got Rough country part number RC8185 or RC9185 (I've got a hookup for deals on Rough Country parts...). which is actually for a 2-4" lift on a TJ. we haven't actually gotten that rig lifted (just working on getting it running so far...). But they look like they'll be about perfect. With the shocks almost fully compressed (with the strap around them from the factory) they are about an inch shorter than the stock shocks at stock, weighted ride height (car on the ground, hold it up next to the stocker, and it's about an inch shorter). so full upflex will be a bit higher than stock, level ground, ride height. and it looks like these shocks will yield about 12" of travel each. so with the 4" of lift we're planning, that means they'll yield about 8" of potential downflex. depending on how much of a drop we put on the diff, this might leave a bit too much travel for the rear end. so limiting straps may be required to avoid axle over-extendage (however, we plan to use dual EA82 DOJ cups at both ends). the RC 8164/9164 (0-1.5" lift TJ) might have been a better fit. but then bump stops would probably be extremely crucial in preventing sever rubbing.
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it could work, but it still makes me extremely nervous. had a guy in the North Shore Wheelers in his Cherokee get hung up on a rock on his tranny skid (which was essentially just a reinforced pan), which ripped his tranny mount, tipped the whole assembly forward, and his rad fan punched a huge hole in his radiator.
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I honestly don't know what they do now. but the Poopenvagon had 3" blocks everywhere. so all suspension angles are stock. I just went wheeling with my buddy that has that rig now....and boy is it coming apart
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bolting a skidplate to the tranny is a bad idea....assuming you're actually going to use it. the smart thing to do, would be something bolted to the engine crossmember, and then to a custom crossmember behind the tranny somewhere....
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Heating fan switch for Loyale
Numbchux replied to TheLoyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
that's definitely the resistor pack. it's easy to get out, but good luck getting a new one. I've had 4 EA82 subarus, and never had one that speeds 1 or 2 worked. and never seen one in a junkyard with more than 1 intact resistor. -
keep in mind, with it in 'stock' AA configuration, the pivot point is up by the body, so the tire won't get any closer, it'll move backwards as the suspension compresses. if you drop that crossmember, and as a result, the pivot point of the trailing arms, that'll mean that the wheel will move straight up and a bit FORWARD (if it travels far enough). towards the sheet metal you were trying to save. I had 215/75r15s (that measured to a touch under 28s) on my 4" AA lifted EA82 wagon with about 2 hits with a small maul on that front corner of he rear fenders. the front was a different issue. full downflex: full upflex: the PoopenVagon (black EA82 with 3" BYB lift and 235/75r15 tires that measured to a hair over 29") would touch the rear doors on full upflex because the trailing arms were pretty much level. and I had to re-engineer the mounts on one side, because the blocks that drop the crossmember got bashed a few too many times, and ripped the captive nuts out of the body.
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^ they're using Escort disty's. not subaru ones. I've never heard of any factory EJ subaru coming with a disty.... the fully electronic ignition is much better. simpler system, less to get wet when wheeling. and the ECU can make it spark anytime. infinitely tunable (with the right ECU...obviously the stock one has it's limits too, but stock for stock, the disty is not better). when wheeling with my EA82s, I had more troubles with a wet disty than anything else!
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wouldn't have to, they'll just spin otherwise, won't hurt anyway. but it's some unnecessary drag, and weight, that's very easily removable. 5 bolts and 2 springpins to take the whole diff, mustache bar, and both axles out. unless you're planning on making the wheels driven although I don't know how you might go about making that work....
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why? by adding blocks, you're drastically weakening suspension. if you're not changing the strut extension, you wouldn't have to lower the diff anymore. but in order to drop the front of the trailing arms to flatten them out, you have to drop the crossmember, which the front diff hanger is bolted to.....so it'll get dropped anyway.
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heat, and a vice grips. a torch on the bolt heads might cause the bolt to expand enough to get it to break loose. and a vice grips is a great way to get ahold of it.
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they are pretty similar options...on paper.... BUT, wiring wise, both options will be pretty difficult. the EA82t will need room for the up-pipe. your brat doesn't have a notch in the crossmember. there are options in that department....but it's something to think about. and, the EJ22 is a much stronger motor, and the turbo invites a collection of things to go wrong (oil and coolant lines....seals, etc.). the EJ oil pump and sending unit are also in a much better place, not hanging down where things can smash them like the EA82. but, obviously, the EJ22 would require the sourcing of said motor and harness, and adapter plate for the tranny, etc. etc. etc. both are good options. personally, I'd sell off the EA82t and go EJ22.
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29s on a 4" lift requires a bunch of trimming, especially to allow the suspension to travel at all. 6" will probably still require some fender cutting....but it'll be a much better fit. 31s will REALLY hurt your gearing, and put alot of stress on axles though.... btw, we call them EA82s in the US.
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bump, less than a week away! going to be a photo finish whether the yota makes it or not....but I'll be there, and so will a few buddies (including the current owner of the PoopenVagon, a guy from the cities with an Outback, and possibly a stock '84 brat).
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yep.... forgot to mention....donor car was an '02 2.5 RS (although some sources say they're the same as WRX brakes. the same calipers at the very least).
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well, they're not on yet, but I just got them today. a buddy of mine went to '06 4piston fronts with larger rotors, and gave me his old ones (that's right....free ). long story short, I've got these to go on with my 5-lug swap: I guess I'll just have to run 16s or bigger....oh no!
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I was thinking fenders and hood too....but as mentioned above, that will probably be a bigger job than I was looking for. but maybe just the bumper....now you've done got me thinkin again
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D/R 5 speed into Auto 4WD EA82 GL
Numbchux replied to Scott in Bellingham's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
most auto's use a 3.7. so you'll need the rear diff. front axles will work front half of the driveshaft is longer (manual tranny is shorter). other than that, you should be set. -
agreed. I'm not a big fan of that application. but it got the wheels turning. mostly on how much more airflow that bumper allows through to the radiator
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How to identify Brat LSD
Numbchux replied to DPDISXR4Ti's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
the problem we're having here is the difference between 'stock' and 'standard'. I don't think there's any official definition, but typically stock refers to something that's not aftermarket. a part could be a factory or dealer option, and still be stock. -
ok, cool. very good to know... BUT, it doesn't answer my question :-p could the front clip from an XT or XT6 be bolted onto an EA82?
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the more I look at it, the more I think they just added a roof and tailgate to an XT. not a front clip swap. I'd want to just swap the front clip onto my wagon, keeping everything from the doors back the same as the loyale.
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GL/RX suspension bushings
Numbchux replied to SmashedGlass's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
yep, as soon as it was posted I bookmarked it :cool: -
^^the sunset one is certainly an epic shot! very nice wow, just 5 is hard :-\
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GL/RX suspension bushings
Numbchux replied to SmashedGlass's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=519495&postcount=34