Numbchux

at the crawl 4 the cure last summer, there was a pair of SAS'd (both were originally IFS) 1st gen 4runners. both on 35" tires. both had driven up from the twin cities (healthy 4 hours, speeding). and I guess they both drove them to MOAB that same year. yea, pretty streetable.

indeed. is it the fat-lip bumper? mine barely held my fog lights in my blue wagon. the non-fat-lip one from my '85 is more solid (well...there's actually steel right behind the plastic cover). but no way would I mount a winch on there. you could pull the skin off, and do some serious re-enforcing of the bumper beam. that would be pretty badass!

get your hands on a '90-'94 legacy AWD 5-speed. depending on your local market, an ugly but running one can be had for $2-500. it'll have your entire engine (and you can make sure it runs BEFORE introducing the problems of a swap), the entire OBD I harness, the tranny, the linkage, the rear diff, etc. and the strongest motor subaru has ever made. the ONLY reason to stay with an EA tranny, is if you're attached to the low range. which, if you're not doing some serious offroading, is unnecessary with the amazing low end torque of the EJ22. whatever you do, don't use the pushbutton single-range tranny. FWD just doesn't cut it with that big motor. you need to be able to put the power to all 4, all the time. the 2.5s are neat motors. but have headgasket issues, and will always have OBD II wiring, which complicates the swap (not impossible....but definitely more difficult).

well, if you've got a real floor jack, it's easy. there's a plate on the engine crossmember on the front. and the rear diff. both are extremely solid (if they aren't, don't EVER drive the car!!!!! part it out now). as for jack stands. the radius rod brackets (rod coming back from the lower control arm, the brackets on the body where these mount to) are pretty solid in the front. and the rear torsion bar (big bar in front of the rear wheels) are also sturdy. tranny options: your EA81 4-speed, presumably dual-range (D/R) 4WD (right?): mediocre synchro's decent gearing (4th gear is comparable to 5th in the newer trannies though, so it's not much different), CRAPPY linkage. probably won't hold the extra power well. EA82 D/R 5-speed: very common, better synchro's, better linkage, lowest gearing. no "AWD" option. FWD or 4WD (which you can't use on pavement without putting some serious wear on the tranny. same as the EA81 trans). EA82 RX trans. VERY rare, took me about 5 months to find one, and it cost me about $600 when it got to my door. this is the one thing I'm immensly disappointed with in my swap. the gearing is so crappy. low range is only 1.2:1, and axle ratio is 3.7:1. AND, it's the ONLY subaru 5-speed (as far as I've been able to find) where 4th gear is NOT an overdrive. meaning you'll end up turning some pretty high rpms on the freeway, despite the taller axle ratio. advantage: full-time 4WD. means you can have power to all 4 wheels even on the pavement. but when the center diff is unlocked (has to be on dry pavement) there's nothing to ensure even power distribution. so if you're turning hard and accelerating, your inside front wheel will spin. all of the above options will require an engine-to-tranny adapter plate. and the use of an EA-series flywheel and clutch (no aftermarket performance options) EJ 5-speed AWD similar synchro's and linkage to an EA82 5-speed. but 4.111 axle ratio, taller 1-5 gears, and viscous limited slip center diff (enough slip to use it on the street, but enough lock to solve the above wheelspin problem). and, if you get a whole donor legacy for your engine (which I would recommend 10 fold), make sure it's a 5-speed, and you've already got everything you need. with the lower axle ratio and better torque curve of the EJ motor, you won't even miss low range. and the taller 3-5 gears will allow better freeway cruising. disadvantages: some serious tranny crossmember modifications will be necessary, as well as a bit of linkage mods, and the driveshaft will need to be shortened (I think). you'll also need to make some hybrid rear axles to mate the legacy rear diff to the EA car (*probably* won't need any more parts than come with your legacy).

good, I'm not the only one seeing that.... if the 2WD one is actually the new one, than I see a HIGHER spring perch.

indeed, the STi has some pretty monstrous 4-piston front calipers and 2 piston rears. aswell as pretty huge rotors. these will require 17" wheels to clear other than that, WRX fronts have the same 2-piston calipers but slightly bigger rotors than your RS. these will only require 16"s the 6-cyl outbacks have a pretty large rear rotor that is a pretty simple swap aswell.

not on the rears. only the fronts. the bracket where the shock bolts to the trailing arm is lower on FWD rears. when I did my 4WD conversion, I compared them side-by-side. '88 GL 4WD shocks next to '92 FWD ones, identical. should have taken pictures.....

yep, the accord springs will yield quite a bit of lift. and cause your shocks to run pretty close to their maximum extension. your best bet is cutting them a bit...

the 22t is the strongest motor subaru has ever made. but as a result, extremely sought after. and as a result, usually way more expensive than their worth. the N/A motor has been proven to hold up to 300awhp with lower compression pistons, and a piggyback ECU. but no EA-series tranny will hold up to that kind of power for very long. especially with oversized tires. like I said in my other post. be patient, and do your research. watch this forum, and read everything you can find. aswell as places like http://www.nasioc.com http://www.rs25.com http://www.legacycentral.org and http://www.sl-i.net I'd also highly recommend searching for a local subaru forum. http://www.mnsubaru.com has been one of the most valuable resources I've ever had. not to mention the fact that their all local, so people can come over to give me a hand if I need it. The EJ22t may sound like the perfect candidate, but a turbo drops in a whole host of issues. things like engine management, exhaust routing, more things to fail, etc. in my opinion.....you'll be happiest if you just get your hands on a non-turbo '90-'94 legacy with a 5-speed, and drop the whole drivetrain in your brat. if you don't plan to do any extreme offroading, you won't need the lo range. especially with the 4.111 axle ratio of the legacies. you'll have to fab up a transmission crossmember and some shift linkage stuff, but you won't need an engine-tranny adapter plate.... go the the USRM (link at the top of the page), then click the engine section, then look for a post by me about the EJ swap write-up. download EA2EJ.pdf, and read it 6 or 8 times. that'll probably answer most of your questions. and remember, BE PATIENT!!!! don't rush these things. the beauty of subarus is the amazing range of modifications that are possible. this means 2 things: 1. it's easy to get exactly what you want out of them 2. it's easy to drop a lot of money for stuff you don't really need so do the research. take the build one step at a time. drive the car a lot, find out what you want out of it, and how you use it, so you can modify it to accommodate. I'd also highly recommend finding a local club, and see if someone will let you drive their WRX. a turbo is very definitely not for everyone. also, if you find a local car enthusiast club, I'm sure you can find someone with an engine hoist you can borrow. if not....they're like $200 at Northern Tool....

agreed. every time I went wheeling last summer. I had a white-knuckled trip home because I bent or destroyed some major suspension component.... if I had wheeled any longer doing the same trails I was doing (most definitely not all the local ORV park has to offer), my subaru would have resembled ground beef by now.... so I got a chance on the most solid 1st gen 4Runner I've ever seen in MN for a steal (again...for a clean one here in the rust belt), and I jumped on it. once I get the suspension done on my wagon, I'll be able to sink some money into the yota, and really enjoy it! a Toyota is like a subaru's big tough brother. that's why so many of us have moved that direction

well said. I don't think it's a stretch to say that the EA82 is probably the worst motor subaru has ever made (rivaled only by the early DOHC 2.5s, but once the headgaskets are done on those, it's not really a problem), and the phase I EJ22 is probably the strongest. same amount of work similar power, different place (the turbo will have a little more peak hp, but less torque in the low end) and see my post in other thread. and certainly don't pay $650 for an EA82t engine (you'll still need the whole wiring harness and an EA81t crossmember (or custom exhaust) to make it work). you can get a whole legacy donor car (everything you need except adapter plate and some random hoses and stuff) for much less than that!

the best advice I can give is to be patient. drive the car a lot and find out what you don't like about it for your own uses. Subaru's can be pretty much anything, and how you build it depends on your personal preference and your uses. don't get too excited and drop a ton of money into a setup that someone else said they liked, it might be a good combination, but it just as easily might not.... that said, don't just slap a turbo on your stock motor. you're not going to see enough benefits without seriously jeapordizing the reliability of the motor... no, you won't need longer shocks with a lift. but with an ea81 (what your brat is), longer rear shocks can drastically help your travel. the EJ22 (legacy/impreza 2.2l) is an awesome swap for almost any use. no turbo lag, tons of torque low in the rpm range, extremely reliable, and extremely easy to get your hands on.

heck, when it makes the noise, pop the hood and see if you can identify where it's coming from. I had the bearing in the electric fan go out on one of my '88s. I had it manually switched, so it was pretty obvious where the noise was coming from. and it was a pretty loud shreaking sound that would go away once it had been run awhile.

no. the strut-to-knuckle hardware is extremely unique. you won't find a longer travel setup that will work without extreme modifications. and while the strut is the limiting factor, there are numerous other parts that need to be upgraded in order to do it reliably. increasing your travel in the front won't happen without some pretty serious investment.

AND, that also means that that side's suspension is compressed, which means that the CVs aren't at an extreme angle.

IIRC, megasquirt can't decipher the Crank Angle Sensor signal. so something else has to be used. be it a distributer, or a sensor on the crank pulley...

I can't speak for everywhere, but all the junkyards I've ever been to, they cut the cats out of the Y-pipe before putting the car in the yard. if it's the cat in the Y, if you can't find a junkyard one, don't even think about replacing the whole thing. your options there are OEM from a dealer (think many hundreds of dollars, at least), or custom. use a long screwdriver, or piece of rebar to knock up the remains of the cat and let them fall out of the cat. then, if you really want to have that cat in there, cut a piece of the pipe out further back, and clamp in an aftermarket one (which still won't be cheap at all). besides, assuming by your screen name that this is a 90 loyale, you've already got 2 in there.....

snowman wrote it for EA82s years ago. GD wrote one specific to EA81s just within the last 6 months or so. if you test pin 47 with a test light to ground, it will light. it doesn't supply power to the ECU, but if it's connected to a ground, it will complete the circuit (which will activate the fuel pump circuit). I'm looking at a FSM diagram right now, the wire gets power from the other side of the relay. as for the no spark issue. double check your ignition timing. it's real easy to have your disty rotor 180* off, lining up with TDC of the wrong stroke. or are you getting no spark at all? check for trouble codes, it could be the crank angle sensor (which will throw a code).

I think you're referring to where the valves float, which is mostly dependent on the condition of the valve springs, my better-running '88 could easily hit 7200 before the valves would float. the red-line is what's marked on the tach, the ECU on the newer cars will actually cut fuel to prevent you from exceeding the redline, as the valvetrain is much stronger and would probably rev well beyond the marked limit. I think it's carbed vs FI. my buddy's '86 and my old '85 carbed EA82s both have 6k rpm redlines (although I didn't realize it on mine until long after I junked the car and found the old gauge cluster, I swapped the cluster for one from an '88 with a 6.5k redline within a few weeks of buying the car) both my '88s, and my '92 are marked at 6500.

pin 47 is the wire that allows the ECU to turn on the fuel pump. with the ECU unplugged, plug in the fuel pump relay, and turn the ignition on. now take a small piece of wire, stick it in pin 47, and touch it to ground. if the fuel pump relay (and therefore the pump itself) comes on, it's wired correctly.

MN. you know, big port city on Lake Superior...

it very easily could be the radio wiring. the auto seatbelts get their power on the same circuit as the radio memory, dash clock memory, horn, and hazard lights (I had the clock/horn/hazard fuse blow, and the radio wouldn't remember anything, and the auto seatbelts wouldn't work). pulling the radio isn't too tough, pull it out and check the wiring. especially the memory wire, if it's shorted out somewhere, I imagine it could do a number of funky things.

not sure where Waukesha is...but I'm up in Duluth. there are probably 8-10 loyales that live in town here. I love passing them in the tunnels

I believe just the EZ30R does. the older EZ30D did not (and also didn't have AVLS or AVCS).