Numbchux

it very easily could be the radio wiring. the auto seatbelts get their power on the same circuit as the radio memory, dash clock memory, horn, and hazard lights (I had the clock/horn/hazard fuse blow, and the radio wouldn't remember anything, and the auto seatbelts wouldn't work). pulling the radio isn't too tough, pull it out and check the wiring. especially the memory wire, if it's shorted out somewhere, I imagine it could do a number of funky things.

not sure where Waukesha is...but I'm up in Duluth. there are probably 8-10 loyales that live in town here. I love passing them in the tunnels

I believe just the EZ30R does. the older EZ30D did not (and also didn't have AVLS or AVCS).

did you convert it to SFA? I thought it was IFS when you bought it. I too am a convert. bought the cleanest 1st gen 4Runner I've ever seen in MN. got a deal on it cause it was run out of oil. it's an '87 Turbo, and the lack of oil took it's toll on the motor, and just when I got things fixed, the turbo goes. so after I get new suspension for the loyale, the yota will get swapped to a plain ol' 22RE. bone stock, on 31s and ugly wheels, for now:

the wiring harness is from a '92. and all the diagrams and stuff are for '92. it's OBD I. nope, it's a totally separate thing. it appears that the plug for the VSS comes out near the O2 sensors. so it very easily could be on the tranny.

yep, it's either the switch, or one of the relays between there. like GLoyale said, hotwire it. run a wire straight from the + battery terminal to the little tab on the top of the starter. if it starts right up, it's something up under the dash. in which case, I'd wire a whole new circuit to a button....just to keep it simple. if it still has trouble turning over, it's the relay inside the starter. in which case....new starter.

I'm working on an EG33 swap harness for a local guy (into a '95 impreza wagon ). I've got 2 small questions. 1. Fuel pump modulator. What is it. there's a fuel pump signal wire from the ECU. can we just connect this to trip the pump relay. according to my pinout, it just grounds that wire to activate the pump. but according to the diagrams, it goes through this modulator first. AND, again according to the pinout, there's a fuel pump discharge flow control wire which goes to the modulator aswell. it looks like it tells the modulator how much fuel pressure to give.... 2. Vehicle speed sensor. it appears that this sensor is a completely external thing. it's got a 3 wire connector (I wasn't been involved in the removal of the harness...so I don't know where it was plugged into). I appears to have a power wire, a ground, and a signal (which goes to the ECU). can I connect the signal wire to a signal wire in the imp harness....and have it work?

an EZ 6-cyl is not heavier than any of the other listed options. it's the same external size as a 4-cyl, and uses a plastic intake mani... but, would cost many times more to get ahold of, and get running.

you'll be hard-pressed to get 15-20" per corner out of a solid axle rig....

yep. it's just the wagon wheels.

that's very definitely true.

The motor is substantially longer. so the radiator will need to be moved forward a bunch. also, IIRC there is a 3rd motor mount in front. so you'll need to address that. then there's the wiring issue....but that's not a huge deal. it's more than possible. and there are a handfull of people who have done it.

define a lot of travel...the method I mentioned above will allow for 12" PER SIDE. which is waaayyyy more than the stock axles can handle. for the front, the struts are the limiting factor (physically limiting travel, however, the axle joints will become a problem if you get longer travel struts). and since they're in integrated part of the suspension and steering geometry, substantial modification will be required to replace them. maybe design a simple A-arm to attach to the top of the knuckle to maintain camber, and then a basic coilover shock could be used. I haven't the faintest idea how you might be able to get a longer travel CV shaft to mate with the subaru tranny or steering knuckle. however you go about it, you're looking at A LOT of custom work

I don't know, that part wasn't my idea....I just know that if you replace the double offset joint on the inside with a second constant velocity joint, you'll need to add a slip joint. the whole point of having a double offset in there is so it'll telescope. the stub's retaining bolt is in the center of the stub shaft.

there are numerous companies who make CV shafts for IFS trucks with slip joints in the middle to keep them from hyper-extending. the ones I've been looking at are for Chevy pickups. if you could get your hands on a slip joint like that (whether cut from a kit like that, or bought seperately), you could weld them into the shaft, and then take it to a driveline shop and have it balance. nope, there's an external 10mm torx bolt in the bottom of it.

need more than the hubs, but not the whole arm. the rotors are different (5 lug holes instead of 4...), and the rotors are also larger, so you need the backing plate to push the caliper out a bit further. but the calipers are the same and the trailing arms are too. baccaruda....I'd love to get my hands on some trailing arms with sway bar mounts....but I've been looking, and asking in every partout thread for about 4 months, and still don't have any :-\

EA81 rears are easy. because they use torsion bars, the shock is easily replaceable with a longer travel version. A buddy and I are working on an '84 brat, and we cross-referenced the application from the Rancho pt # RS5241 that's listed on the SJRlift site, to be a TJ wrangler rear with 2.5" of lift. using that application, we got Rough country part number RC8185 or RC9185 (I've got a hookup for deals on Rough Country parts...). which is actually for a 2-4" lift on a TJ. we haven't actually gotten that rig lifted (just working on getting it running so far...). But they look like they'll be about perfect. With the shocks almost fully compressed (with the strap around them from the factory) they are about an inch shorter than the stock shocks at stock, weighted ride height (car on the ground, hold it up next to the stocker, and it's about an inch shorter). so full upflex will be a bit higher than stock, level ground, ride height. and it looks like these shocks will yield about 12" of travel each. so with the 4" of lift we're planning, that means they'll yield about 8" of potential downflex. depending on how much of a drop we put on the diff, this might leave a bit too much travel for the rear end. so limiting straps may be required to avoid axle over-extendage (however, we plan to use dual EA82 DOJ cups at both ends). the RC 8164/9164 (0-1.5" lift TJ) might have been a better fit. but then bump stops would probably be extremely crucial in preventing sever rubbing.

it could work, but it still makes me extremely nervous. had a guy in the North Shore Wheelers in his Cherokee get hung up on a rock on his tranny skid (which was essentially just a reinforced pan), which ripped his tranny mount, tipped the whole assembly forward, and his rad fan punched a huge hole in his radiator.

I honestly don't know what they do now. but the Poopenvagon had 3" blocks everywhere. so all suspension angles are stock. I just went wheeling with my buddy that has that rig now....and boy is it coming apart

bolting a skidplate to the tranny is a bad idea....assuming you're actually going to use it. the smart thing to do, would be something bolted to the engine crossmember, and then to a custom crossmember behind the tranny somewhere....

that's definitely the resistor pack. it's easy to get out, but good luck getting a new one. I've had 4 EA82 subarus, and never had one that speeds 1 or 2 worked. and never seen one in a junkyard with more than 1 intact resistor.

keep in mind, with it in 'stock' AA configuration, the pivot point is up by the body, so the tire won't get any closer, it'll move backwards as the suspension compresses. if you drop that crossmember, and as a result, the pivot point of the trailing arms, that'll mean that the wheel will move straight up and a bit FORWARD (if it travels far enough). towards the sheet metal you were trying to save. I had 215/75r15s (that measured to a touch under 28s) on my 4" AA lifted EA82 wagon with about 2 hits with a small maul on that front corner of he rear fenders. the front was a different issue. full downflex: full upflex: the PoopenVagon (black EA82 with 3" BYB lift and 235/75r15 tires that measured to a hair over 29") would touch the rear doors on full upflex because the trailing arms were pretty much level. and I had to re-engineer the mounts on one side, because the blocks that drop the crossmember got bashed a few too many times, and ripped the captive nuts out of the body.

^ they're using Escort disty's. not subaru ones. I've never heard of any factory EJ subaru coming with a disty.... the fully electronic ignition is much better. simpler system, less to get wet when wheeling. and the ECU can make it spark anytime. infinitely tunable (with the right ECU...obviously the stock one has it's limits too, but stock for stock, the disty is not better). when wheeling with my EA82s, I had more troubles with a wet disty than anything else!

wouldn't have to, they'll just spin otherwise, won't hurt anyway. but it's some unnecessary drag, and weight, that's very easily removable. 5 bolts and 2 springpins to take the whole diff, mustache bar, and both axles out. unless you're planning on making the wheels driven although I don't know how you might go about making that work....

why? by adding blocks, you're drastically weakening suspension. if you're not changing the strut extension, you wouldn't have to lower the diff anymore. but in order to drop the front of the trailing arms to flatten them out, you have to drop the crossmember, which the front diff hanger is bolted to.....so it'll get dropped anyway.