Numbchux

yep, the accord springs will yield quite a bit of lift. and cause your shocks to run pretty close to their maximum extension. your best bet is cutting them a bit...

the 22t is the strongest motor subaru has ever made. but as a result, extremely sought after. and as a result, usually way more expensive than their worth. the N/A motor has been proven to hold up to 300awhp with lower compression pistons, and a piggyback ECU. but no EA-series tranny will hold up to that kind of power for very long. especially with oversized tires. like I said in my other post. be patient, and do your research. watch this forum, and read everything you can find. aswell as places like http://www.nasioc.com http://www.rs25.com http://www.legacycentral.org and http://www.sl-i.net I'd also highly recommend searching for a local subaru forum. http://www.mnsubaru.com has been one of the most valuable resources I've ever had. not to mention the fact that their all local, so people can come over to give me a hand if I need it. The EJ22t may sound like the perfect candidate, but a turbo drops in a whole host of issues. things like engine management, exhaust routing, more things to fail, etc. in my opinion.....you'll be happiest if you just get your hands on a non-turbo '90-'94 legacy with a 5-speed, and drop the whole drivetrain in your brat. if you don't plan to do any extreme offroading, you won't need the lo range. especially with the 4.111 axle ratio of the legacies. you'll have to fab up a transmission crossmember and some shift linkage stuff, but you won't need an engine-tranny adapter plate.... go the the USRM (link at the top of the page), then click the engine section, then look for a post by me about the EJ swap write-up. download EA2EJ.pdf, and read it 6 or 8 times. that'll probably answer most of your questions. and remember, BE PATIENT!!!! don't rush these things. the beauty of subarus is the amazing range of modifications that are possible. this means 2 things: 1. it's easy to get exactly what you want out of them 2. it's easy to drop a lot of money for stuff you don't really need so do the research. take the build one step at a time. drive the car a lot, find out what you want out of it, and how you use it, so you can modify it to accommodate. I'd also highly recommend finding a local club, and see if someone will let you drive their WRX. a turbo is very definitely not for everyone. also, if you find a local car enthusiast club, I'm sure you can find someone with an engine hoist you can borrow. if not....they're like $200 at Northern Tool....

agreed. every time I went wheeling last summer. I had a white-knuckled trip home because I bent or destroyed some major suspension component.... if I had wheeled any longer doing the same trails I was doing (most definitely not all the local ORV park has to offer), my subaru would have resembled ground beef by now.... so I got a chance on the most solid 1st gen 4Runner I've ever seen in MN for a steal (again...for a clean one here in the rust belt), and I jumped on it. once I get the suspension done on my wagon, I'll be able to sink some money into the yota, and really enjoy it! a Toyota is like a subaru's big tough brother. that's why so many of us have moved that direction

well said. I don't think it's a stretch to say that the EA82 is probably the worst motor subaru has ever made (rivaled only by the early DOHC 2.5s, but once the headgaskets are done on those, it's not really a problem), and the phase I EJ22 is probably the strongest. same amount of work similar power, different place (the turbo will have a little more peak hp, but less torque in the low end) and see my post in other thread. and certainly don't pay $650 for an EA82t engine (you'll still need the whole wiring harness and an EA81t crossmember (or custom exhaust) to make it work). you can get a whole legacy donor car (everything you need except adapter plate and some random hoses and stuff) for much less than that!

the best advice I can give is to be patient. drive the car a lot and find out what you don't like about it for your own uses. Subaru's can be pretty much anything, and how you build it depends on your personal preference and your uses. don't get too excited and drop a ton of money into a setup that someone else said they liked, it might be a good combination, but it just as easily might not.... that said, don't just slap a turbo on your stock motor. you're not going to see enough benefits without seriously jeapordizing the reliability of the motor... no, you won't need longer shocks with a lift. but with an ea81 (what your brat is), longer rear shocks can drastically help your travel. the EJ22 (legacy/impreza 2.2l) is an awesome swap for almost any use. no turbo lag, tons of torque low in the rpm range, extremely reliable, and extremely easy to get your hands on.

heck, when it makes the noise, pop the hood and see if you can identify where it's coming from. I had the bearing in the electric fan go out on one of my '88s. I had it manually switched, so it was pretty obvious where the noise was coming from. and it was a pretty loud shreaking sound that would go away once it had been run awhile.

no. the strut-to-knuckle hardware is extremely unique. you won't find a longer travel setup that will work without extreme modifications. and while the strut is the limiting factor, there are numerous other parts that need to be upgraded in order to do it reliably. increasing your travel in the front won't happen without some pretty serious investment.

AND, that also means that that side's suspension is compressed, which means that the CVs aren't at an extreme angle.

IIRC, megasquirt can't decipher the Crank Angle Sensor signal. so something else has to be used. be it a distributer, or a sensor on the crank pulley...

I can't speak for everywhere, but all the junkyards I've ever been to, they cut the cats out of the Y-pipe before putting the car in the yard. if it's the cat in the Y, if you can't find a junkyard one, don't even think about replacing the whole thing. your options there are OEM from a dealer (think many hundreds of dollars, at least), or custom. use a long screwdriver, or piece of rebar to knock up the remains of the cat and let them fall out of the cat. then, if you really want to have that cat in there, cut a piece of the pipe out further back, and clamp in an aftermarket one (which still won't be cheap at all). besides, assuming by your screen name that this is a 90 loyale, you've already got 2 in there.....

snowman wrote it for EA82s years ago. GD wrote one specific to EA81s just within the last 6 months or so. if you test pin 47 with a test light to ground, it will light. it doesn't supply power to the ECU, but if it's connected to a ground, it will complete the circuit (which will activate the fuel pump circuit). I'm looking at a FSM diagram right now, the wire gets power from the other side of the relay. as for the no spark issue. double check your ignition timing. it's real easy to have your disty rotor 180* off, lining up with TDC of the wrong stroke. or are you getting no spark at all? check for trouble codes, it could be the crank angle sensor (which will throw a code).

I think you're referring to where the valves float, which is mostly dependent on the condition of the valve springs, my better-running '88 could easily hit 7200 before the valves would float. the red-line is what's marked on the tach, the ECU on the newer cars will actually cut fuel to prevent you from exceeding the redline, as the valvetrain is much stronger and would probably rev well beyond the marked limit. I think it's carbed vs FI. my buddy's '86 and my old '85 carbed EA82s both have 6k rpm redlines (although I didn't realize it on mine until long after I junked the car and found the old gauge cluster, I swapped the cluster for one from an '88 with a 6.5k redline within a few weeks of buying the car) both my '88s, and my '92 are marked at 6500.

pin 47 is the wire that allows the ECU to turn on the fuel pump. with the ECU unplugged, plug in the fuel pump relay, and turn the ignition on. now take a small piece of wire, stick it in pin 47, and touch it to ground. if the fuel pump relay (and therefore the pump itself) comes on, it's wired correctly.

MN. you know, big port city on Lake Superior...

it very easily could be the radio wiring. the auto seatbelts get their power on the same circuit as the radio memory, dash clock memory, horn, and hazard lights (I had the clock/horn/hazard fuse blow, and the radio wouldn't remember anything, and the auto seatbelts wouldn't work). pulling the radio isn't too tough, pull it out and check the wiring. especially the memory wire, if it's shorted out somewhere, I imagine it could do a number of funky things.

not sure where Waukesha is...but I'm up in Duluth. there are probably 8-10 loyales that live in town here. I love passing them in the tunnels

I believe just the EZ30R does. the older EZ30D did not (and also didn't have AVLS or AVCS).

did you convert it to SFA? I thought it was IFS when you bought it. I too am a convert. bought the cleanest 1st gen 4Runner I've ever seen in MN. got a deal on it cause it was run out of oil. it's an '87 Turbo, and the lack of oil took it's toll on the motor, and just when I got things fixed, the turbo goes. so after I get new suspension for the loyale, the yota will get swapped to a plain ol' 22RE. bone stock, on 31s and ugly wheels, for now:

the wiring harness is from a '92. and all the diagrams and stuff are for '92. it's OBD I. nope, it's a totally separate thing. it appears that the plug for the VSS comes out near the O2 sensors. so it very easily could be on the tranny.

yep, it's either the switch, or one of the relays between there. like GLoyale said, hotwire it. run a wire straight from the + battery terminal to the little tab on the top of the starter. if it starts right up, it's something up under the dash. in which case, I'd wire a whole new circuit to a button....just to keep it simple. if it still has trouble turning over, it's the relay inside the starter. in which case....new starter.

I'm working on an EG33 swap harness for a local guy (into a '95 impreza wagon ). I've got 2 small questions. 1. Fuel pump modulator. What is it. there's a fuel pump signal wire from the ECU. can we just connect this to trip the pump relay. according to my pinout, it just grounds that wire to activate the pump. but according to the diagrams, it goes through this modulator first. AND, again according to the pinout, there's a fuel pump discharge flow control wire which goes to the modulator aswell. it looks like it tells the modulator how much fuel pressure to give.... 2. Vehicle speed sensor. it appears that this sensor is a completely external thing. it's got a 3 wire connector (I wasn't been involved in the removal of the harness...so I don't know where it was plugged into). I appears to have a power wire, a ground, and a signal (which goes to the ECU). can I connect the signal wire to a signal wire in the imp harness....and have it work?

an EZ 6-cyl is not heavier than any of the other listed options. it's the same external size as a 4-cyl, and uses a plastic intake mani... but, would cost many times more to get ahold of, and get running.

you'll be hard-pressed to get 15-20" per corner out of a solid axle rig....

yep. it's just the wagon wheels.