Numbchux

if it had a rear sway bar, I want the trailing arms. I pulled the rear bar off an XT6 up here, but didn't think to get the trailing arms until after they crushed it. So now I've got an XT6 bar, but nowhere to attach it on my loyale.... I'm not in a terrible hurry to get my hands on them (in fact, I don't really have any money here within the next couple weeks). But they are pretty hard to find.

so, I was over on XT6.net today looking for brake ideas.... and saw this: apparently it's real too... I don't have the skills or interest in giving the whole car the XT look...just the front clip. so, if I got my hands on an XT4, how possible might this be? might the fenders match up with the EA82 doors? would the radiator/headlight support need major modification? I've only seen a couple XTs in person, so I really have no idea how similar the front end might be.

I might be able to put together a .pdf file and host it on the school servers...

I hate 5-speeds for crawling. only reason I put up with it on my subaru was because it's the only way to get low range. be extremely careful if you're mating it up to an EG33 though. they can barely hold that up to that torque in 'normal' use.

might want to double check the memorabilia link again.

might want to double check the memorabilia link again.

correction, the RX was the only one got get it standard. As you said, and others said above, they were stock, but only an option, and as a result, rare. definitely not all '89 GL-10 turbo wagons though. I've seen 2 in the junkyard with open rear ends. I know of a 5MT FT4WD XT6 in MN that has a factory 3.9 mechanical LSD (not viscous like the legacy turbos) in the rear. but yes, when in doubt, spin one rear wheel. if the other wheel either spins the opposite direction, or doesn't spin at all, it's open. the LSDs are pretty stiff, so you'll feel it pretty quick.

yep, funky brake pads could also cause funky noises... also wheel bearings, or even something as simple as not getting the axle nut torqued down enough just judging by your description though, I don't think it's something in your tranny.

most definitely. right side. when you turn right, the car leans away from that side, putting more angle/stress on that axle. when you turn left, it relieves the angles and stress....

looking for the rear trailing arms with sway bar brackets. they'd probably be an uber pain to get out on a junkyard car though....

I'm currently running generic R1 Racing coilover springs for an impreza on my loyale. They fit great....but they're way stiffer than I want (450/500 lb/in) You can order springs from Ground Control with custom spring rates too. the difficulty is not the springs, but the shocks/struts. the only stiffer than stock, aftermarket shock/strut combo available for an EA82 are KYB GR2s. which in the grand scheme of things are pretty soft. Someone in MNSubaru suggested trying Koni inserts, but I don't care to try because I'm going 5-lug using legacy stuff.... WJM says regular BE/BH legacy rear shocks will not work with EA82 tophats. I've been meaning to ask him why.... but full coilovers (Megan Racing, Tein, etc.) will. my hunt for sweet suspension continues....hopefully I'll find something I like by the time I have the money to spend on it :-\

yes it will. adjusting the struts up that much will make very short work of your CV joints, especially non-OEM ones.

that won't help, but you've also got the struts adjusted all the way up that's waaaaay too much axle angle. lower those bad boys.

well, the Crawl 4 the Cure is no longer on the weekend of the 4th...so I may be available. although I wouldn't be in a subaru :-\

There's a guy on here from Wisconsin (I forgot his name, but he picked up the topper from a buddy of mine...) who did just that. made a strut extension to fit between the knuckle and the strut. he had them machined, and said they fit so tight the tops had to be heated up a bunch to get the struts in them

that's one great looking brumby! I'm so jealous, especially knowing what it's now hiding under the hood

that's what the picture above is of. first one is how it's hooked up stock, second one is bypassed to one side.

you must be using both lights, not just one on each side. Gloyale, I'm sure you could throw a different bulb in there....I just never bothered :-p

don't need to plug anything into the solenoid. just bypass it.

yep, I wired mine into the parking lights too. but because I was using a bumper that no longer had turn signals. I just cut the harness to the parking lights in half so the orange side-view lights were still just parking lights. and then ran the wires for the turn signals up to the white front-view lights. the bulbs there are lower wattage, so they're not quite as bright, and the signal will blink pretty fast, but it's still visible.

huh, I noticed nothing of the sort on the hatch when we were working on it.... I'll have to run over and check it out the next time I'm in the cities.

if that's the case, the change is so extremely minimal that you won't notice. I've never seen any older soob with any camber in the rear. whether it was either of my lifted EA82 wagons, throughout their entire range of motion, or my buddies lifted hatch, or another buddies brat.... My loyale had some camber on one rear wheel when I started driving it. But my dad did hit a curb at an angle at about 50mph....so nothing on that side was really pointed quite where it should have been.

yep, doesn't sound like a tstat problem. my EJ22e is approaching 250k miles, my dad never replaced the tstat (we bought the car with 20k on it...). Just a new water pump at 120k with the timing belt. I've had the temp gauge creep up on me twice....once, the coolant had all leaked out, and the other, there was snow completely packed in my radiator.

that sounds about right. my buddy went 2 notches, and it matches his 4" front lift very well.

I want to clarify that when you say 'clocked', you're not just referring to tightening the adjustment bolt. Because, as I said, I've ridden in, and driven, my buddies hatch in all 3 configurations. Stock, cranked adjustment bolt, then after the lift, with reclocked rear end. And I will tell you that with the adjustment bolt tightened way up, it was EXTREMELY stiff. but with the adjustment backed all the way off, and the tbar clocked up 2 notches, it rides like stock. and with a 2" diff shim, and 3" mustache bar blocks, the axle and driveshaft angles are fine (3" engine and tranny xmember blocks, 4" front strut extensions).