Numbchux

well, judging from the other 26 posts, I'm guessing he's talking about a '90-'91 legacy. in which case it's down by the lower rad hose. no, I've never heard of anyone moving it, or ever even thinking of needing to. Why would you need to?

I ran 215/75r15 GoodYear UltraGrips on my blue lifted wagon. never got stuck in the snow. When we got snow storms up here, I used to go out and see if I could find a hill I couldn't climb......never did find one.

just make a spacer to drop the front of the diff down an inch or 2 like the one SJR makes. that's what my buddy has on his hatch. and blocks on the mustache bar mounts.

yep, and as a result, the EJ22t motors have become really expensive. the newer gen guys all want them for their huge build-ups. But they've become really overrated, people are thinking that a closed deck motor will make any build faster. the open deck EJ22e N/A motor is still EXTREMELY strong, and a tiny fraction of the cost. even if you do a small turbo build.

HAHAHA, fooled you!!!! I actually posted the same pic twice to see if anyone was paying attention good catch, fixed it. :-\

Seriously? In the rear?! Must have bent something :-p I'll try to find pics of my buddies hatch after the lift. 4" lift, torsion bar mounted to the body, reclocked 2 notches. camber looks fine....in the rear....and he says it rides awesome compared to the cranked adjustment bolt. oh yea, definitely leave the shock extension! or get longer shocks. I don't understand WHY the torsion bars behave the way the do, but they definitely do. It's even true of the bars on the front of an IFS toyota. If you tighten them a bunch for a cheap lift, they get much stiffer (although I don't think there's anyway to reclock those...). and from the firsthand experience on my buddies hatch. WE went out with him stock once, and it flexed pretty well, then we cranked up the suspension, cut the crap out of the fenders, and stuffed 29" swampers in there, and he had zero travel. now he's lifted it with the reclocked bar, and it flexes at least as well as it did stock.

haha, good. That's why I did the write-up. so people wouldn't spend as much time banging their head against the wall as I did.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73676 that write-up will answer many of your questions. That's a '92 loyale with a '92 legacy EJ22e. I hate turbos, like fiery passion hate them. the EJ22 gives me pretty much all the oomph I could ever hope for with the torque of the EJ in the lightweight EA body. besides, unless you're shooting for AT LEAST 300awhp, a fully closed deck EJ22t is just not worth the extra money. a piggyback ECU and a turbo kit (the guys getting the closed deck motors are throwing away the stock stuff anyway...) will get you close to 200hp, very reliably and very cheaply. I would highly recommend not using a junkyard donor. no way to know it's history, or if it runs. and you've got a ton of stuff to pull. If it's at all possible, get a parts car ('90-'94 legacy makes for the simplest swap). if you keep your eyes open a bit, you can find one for a similar price to a full engine, harness, and ECU from a junkyard would cost. and you'll probably be able to make some money on the parts you won't be using.

what do you want to see? you've looked at the write-up, right? there are dozens of smaller pictures in there.

if worse comes to worse, heat helps too. had to use an acetylene torch and an air chisel on one of mine

I'm assuming this is a push-button Part-time 4WD 5-speed loyale or DL. That's a crucial part of this just bypass it. there's a vacuum line that goes from the engine to one side of the solenoids, and there's 2 lines that go from the solenoids to the diaphragm on the tranny. these lines are the same size. simply plug it into one line for 4WD, and the other for FWD. that's how I've been running my center diff lock for my RX trans for about 8 months now. Haven't had time to wire up the circuits to make the solenoids work how they should.....this works great. hooked up correctly: bypassed: simple as that. might need some trail and error to figure out which is which. although, if it's stuck in 4WD. start the engine, and with the line from the engine still hooked up, then take one of the 2 lines off of the solenoids. the 4WD one will have vacuum. bypass it to the other one.

nope. the trailing arms maintain 0 camber in the rear throughout their entire range of motion. why would reclocking it reduce down travel? My buddy did this on his '88 hatch. reclocked it 2 notches, and then backed off the adjustment bolt a bunch (4" AA kit, didn't use the blocks for the torsion bar, he saw the damage done to the poopenvagon ). it travels very nicely, obviously a substantially softer ride than with the cranked adjustment bolt, and way more flex. He says he thinks it might even ride softer than it did before cranking up the torsion bar. we're planning to do the same on another buddy's '84 brat. obviously with blocks to drop the diff down a few inches. and longer rear shocks.

oh yea, and I'm sure I was well over 200 (probably closer to 300) with mine. with the 5 speed and 4WD conversions on top of the EJ swap. and the fact that I tried to do it the hard way first.....ugh.

I've NEVER seen an RX in person. saw an extremely rusty Loyale RS turbo coupe once....but that's as close as it comes. of course, this is in MN. I've never seen an EA81 and not known the owner. Loyales that aren't rusted in half are getting pretty darn rare

yarg....how so? maybe my mom will let me disassemble her '01 for a day to see if the fabrication might be within my capabilities.

+1 for the no covers. the first time I broke a tbelt (about a mile after buying my blue wagon...), I had no idea. and it was throwing a crank angle sensor code....so I'm just mad. every time after that, the motor dies, I get out, look underneath, and there's the tbelt hanging down. There's the problem right there! 20 minutes (or less) later I'm back on my way.

not irrelevant. I've worked on a few EA81s. But I'm the first to admit that my experience is mainly on EA82s. like I said, BYB kits are VERY well made. certainly no worries about defects. But I'd be a bit weary about the design. And my concern is not just about the rear. I see talk about redesign on his site. but the pic looks just like the kit that was on the PoopenVagon, which was the first EA82 kit to come stateside. I'm not knocking PKs work by any means. He makes an awesome product. I'm simply sharing my personal experience with ALL THREE companies with who I think makes the best product.

Tleg sedan is listed, as it seems it got a different rear spring diameter. Wagon is the same, turbo or not spring diameters didn't change for Outback and the spring rates aren't listed separately, so I would assume the same there. I'd love to get lengths, but haven't been able to find it for ANY of the springs listed. sources: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=308442 http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=2153 http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/spring/spring.html

Make sure you get 'em to a fridge though I've used the stop leak stuff. works decent on pinhole leaks. but you could also hit it with some QuikSteel (available at your local Wal-Mart). It's a 2-part epoxy alot like JB, but applies like a putty, so it's much easier to work with. I blew out 3 rows of my radiator (don't ask how ) while on the trail last summer, and I used a bunch of QuikSteel to save it. My buddy who has that wagon now says it hasn't leaked a drop since

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siping

SJR makes an awesome product. BYB is very well-built, but not as well designed. My BYB lifted wagon (EA82, but still very similar) tweaked the unibody every time we went out.

should be center-to-center

yep, just last summer got those exact same tires, siped, warrantied, mounted, balanced, and on the car for about $200. I believe $32 per tire, $7 each for the extra warranty, $30 for the siping on all 4, plus tax. AND, 2 months later, my dad backed over the trailer hitch and tore an enormous hole in the sidewall of one of them. He took it in, and they replaced it on the spot. He just paid the $7 to renew the warranty on it. I'll never buy tires anywhere else. Discount tire is amazing.....and now MNSubaru gets 20% off there!

yea, you need to find the percent change. you can use this calc: http://www.subarubrat.com/Calc.htm punch in your old tire diameter, new tire diameter, and 50mph, and then calculate the percentage difference. for example. I found that an EA82 on 215/75r15 tires is 10mph off at 50mph, or 20%. and there's you're conversion, add 20% to your odo number.

remember, he's running an EJ22....so the power thing isn't nearly as much of an issue.