Numbchux

I'm currently running generic R1 Racing coilover springs for an impreza on my loyale. They fit great....but they're way stiffer than I want (450/500 lb/in) You can order springs from Ground Control with custom spring rates too. the difficulty is not the springs, but the shocks/struts. the only stiffer than stock, aftermarket shock/strut combo available for an EA82 are KYB GR2s. which in the grand scheme of things are pretty soft. Someone in MNSubaru suggested trying Koni inserts, but I don't care to try because I'm going 5-lug using legacy stuff.... WJM says regular BE/BH legacy rear shocks will not work with EA82 tophats. I've been meaning to ask him why.... but full coilovers (Megan Racing, Tein, etc.) will. my hunt for sweet suspension continues....hopefully I'll find something I like by the time I have the money to spend on it :-\

yes it will. adjusting the struts up that much will make very short work of your CV joints, especially non-OEM ones.

that won't help, but you've also got the struts adjusted all the way up that's waaaaay too much axle angle. lower those bad boys.

well, the Crawl 4 the Cure is no longer on the weekend of the 4th...so I may be available. although I wouldn't be in a subaru :-\

There's a guy on here from Wisconsin (I forgot his name, but he picked up the topper from a buddy of mine...) who did just that. made a strut extension to fit between the knuckle and the strut. he had them machined, and said they fit so tight the tops had to be heated up a bunch to get the struts in them

that's one great looking brumby! I'm so jealous, especially knowing what it's now hiding under the hood

that's what the picture above is of. first one is how it's hooked up stock, second one is bypassed to one side.

you must be using both lights, not just one on each side. Gloyale, I'm sure you could throw a different bulb in there....I just never bothered :-p

don't need to plug anything into the solenoid. just bypass it.

yep, I wired mine into the parking lights too. but because I was using a bumper that no longer had turn signals. I just cut the harness to the parking lights in half so the orange side-view lights were still just parking lights. and then ran the wires for the turn signals up to the white front-view lights. the bulbs there are lower wattage, so they're not quite as bright, and the signal will blink pretty fast, but it's still visible.

huh, I noticed nothing of the sort on the hatch when we were working on it.... I'll have to run over and check it out the next time I'm in the cities.

if that's the case, the change is so extremely minimal that you won't notice. I've never seen any older soob with any camber in the rear. whether it was either of my lifted EA82 wagons, throughout their entire range of motion, or my buddies lifted hatch, or another buddies brat.... My loyale had some camber on one rear wheel when I started driving it. But my dad did hit a curb at an angle at about 50mph....so nothing on that side was really pointed quite where it should have been.

yep, doesn't sound like a tstat problem. my EJ22e is approaching 250k miles, my dad never replaced the tstat (we bought the car with 20k on it...). Just a new water pump at 120k with the timing belt. I've had the temp gauge creep up on me twice....once, the coolant had all leaked out, and the other, there was snow completely packed in my radiator.

that sounds about right. my buddy went 2 notches, and it matches his 4" front lift very well.

I want to clarify that when you say 'clocked', you're not just referring to tightening the adjustment bolt. Because, as I said, I've ridden in, and driven, my buddies hatch in all 3 configurations. Stock, cranked adjustment bolt, then after the lift, with reclocked rear end. And I will tell you that with the adjustment bolt tightened way up, it was EXTREMELY stiff. but with the adjustment backed all the way off, and the tbar clocked up 2 notches, it rides like stock. and with a 2" diff shim, and 3" mustache bar blocks, the axle and driveshaft angles are fine (3" engine and tranny xmember blocks, 4" front strut extensions).

well, judging from the other 26 posts, I'm guessing he's talking about a '90-'91 legacy. in which case it's down by the lower rad hose. no, I've never heard of anyone moving it, or ever even thinking of needing to. Why would you need to?

I ran 215/75r15 GoodYear UltraGrips on my blue lifted wagon. never got stuck in the snow. When we got snow storms up here, I used to go out and see if I could find a hill I couldn't climb......never did find one.

just make a spacer to drop the front of the diff down an inch or 2 like the one SJR makes. that's what my buddy has on his hatch. and blocks on the mustache bar mounts.

yep, and as a result, the EJ22t motors have become really expensive. the newer gen guys all want them for their huge build-ups. But they've become really overrated, people are thinking that a closed deck motor will make any build faster. the open deck EJ22e N/A motor is still EXTREMELY strong, and a tiny fraction of the cost. even if you do a small turbo build.

HAHAHA, fooled you!!!! I actually posted the same pic twice to see if anyone was paying attention good catch, fixed it. :-\

Seriously? In the rear?! Must have bent something :-p I'll try to find pics of my buddies hatch after the lift. 4" lift, torsion bar mounted to the body, reclocked 2 notches. camber looks fine....in the rear....and he says it rides awesome compared to the cranked adjustment bolt. oh yea, definitely leave the shock extension! or get longer shocks. I don't understand WHY the torsion bars behave the way the do, but they definitely do. It's even true of the bars on the front of an IFS toyota. If you tighten them a bunch for a cheap lift, they get much stiffer (although I don't think there's anyway to reclock those...). and from the firsthand experience on my buddies hatch. WE went out with him stock once, and it flexed pretty well, then we cranked up the suspension, cut the crap out of the fenders, and stuffed 29" swampers in there, and he had zero travel. now he's lifted it with the reclocked bar, and it flexes at least as well as it did stock.

haha, good. That's why I did the write-up. so people wouldn't spend as much time banging their head against the wall as I did.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73676 that write-up will answer many of your questions. That's a '92 loyale with a '92 legacy EJ22e. I hate turbos, like fiery passion hate them. the EJ22 gives me pretty much all the oomph I could ever hope for with the torque of the EJ in the lightweight EA body. besides, unless you're shooting for AT LEAST 300awhp, a fully closed deck EJ22t is just not worth the extra money. a piggyback ECU and a turbo kit (the guys getting the closed deck motors are throwing away the stock stuff anyway...) will get you close to 200hp, very reliably and very cheaply. I would highly recommend not using a junkyard donor. no way to know it's history, or if it runs. and you've got a ton of stuff to pull. If it's at all possible, get a parts car ('90-'94 legacy makes for the simplest swap). if you keep your eyes open a bit, you can find one for a similar price to a full engine, harness, and ECU from a junkyard would cost. and you'll probably be able to make some money on the parts you won't be using.

what do you want to see? you've looked at the write-up, right? there are dozens of smaller pictures in there.

if worse comes to worse, heat helps too. had to use an acetylene torch and an air chisel on one of mine