Numbchux

yep, the ECU has a tach signal wire. I don't know which pin or what color for the OBD II ones. and an analog dash will have an input wire...I had to trace mine down from the plug on the gauge cluster itself. nice car, and nice intake :-p

We've had incredibly good luck with Discount tire. And they sell an extremely basic All-season tire called the "Warrior" (not sure who makes it....) that I run on my loyale and my dad has on his '94 legacy aswell. I love them. Very quiet, and if you spring the extra $30 to get them siped (I'd highly recommend it), you'll have amazing snow traction and treadlife. the first week that I had them (on my old '85 carbed GL wagon), a buddy and I took them to a snowy and empty parking lot, and the tires gripped so well, that I could not drift. the motor (wasn't running in tip-top condition then...) simply couldn't overpower the tires. here they are: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/searchTiresByBrand.do?rcz=55359&mk=SUBARU&rc=MNMINT&yr=1992&typ=Passenger%2FPerformance&vid=005832&mf=Warrior in my experience, you can't beat the bang-for-the-buck quality of these. not to mention the awesome customer service at discount tire.

me too, hopefully I can afford it before AutoX season this year :\

I was going to hold out on this until I had it all assembled this summer....but after my latest discovery, I can't hold it in anymore. So, Most of you already know that the BE/BH legacies use a very similar shock design to the EA82s. and as a result, coilovers designed for said legacies can be used (suberdave and WJM are both using Teins in the rear). BUT, I didn't want to go the full coilover route, so I've been looking at other options. in my search, I was having some serious difficulty finding concrete information on spring specs, so I compiled this chart: anyone see anything interesting? the STOCK BE/BH legacies use virtually the same diameter rear spring as an EA82. so that means that aftermarket spings for a BE/BH legacy will fit pretty well on an EA82 rear shock. So, My plan was to run KYB GR2s in the rear, and AGXs in the front (for some adjustability), with these JDM Legacy STi springs: http://www.rallitek.com/jdmstispspse.html but I was searching japanparts.com today....and found adjustable JDM Legacy STi shocks. these have the same lower mount on he bottom (just uses a larger bolt....a spacer can fix that) as an EA82, and with EA82 upper mounts, will fit the legacy springs perfectly. AND, the top of the front springs are only 5mm narrower than the EA82s, so they'll fit pretty well on the stock upper mounts (for those who don't feel like modifying the strut towers). anyway, here are the adjustable shocks, and a cheaper source for the STi springs: http://japanparts.com/db/partslist.php?dealer=1&car=8&middlesmall=3%3A9&maker=4&volkey= that combo will cost ~$1200....which is comparable to a Megan or Tein full coilover setup, but I think will yield a better ride for those of us who daily drive our cars on crappy roads, and/or RallyX. and I think if coupled with some poly bushings and XT6 sway bars, will still yield pretty awesome handling on the street/track. just thought I'd share...

called ball seats http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59064

just get another hatch....it's 8 bolts that was my solution when the lawn mower handle attacked my rear window

I have no idea exactly. I have had virtually zero experience with standalones. but there are entire sections dedicated to engine management on the major new gen forums (nasioc and the like)

well, the OBD II setups are more complicated...but not by a whole lot, I believe. but, a full standalone ECU would probably be easier than swapping the stock harness. Also remember, there are many ECU options for the EJ motors (and IIRC megasquirt has some issues with it, so may not be the best choice)

BUMP, added a few other handy files...

while offroading, you can lean out and see the terrain under your tires. I just take my doors off....

I wouldn't......again :-\ epoxies don't hold up to well to the pressure. BUT, for a *temporary* solution, you can use a piece of small rubber line (like one of the larger vacuum lines), slit it lengthwise so you cal slide it over the line, coat the inside with a little epoxy of your choice, and use a few hose clamps to put some pressure on it. you probably won't get a perfect seal under full brake pressure, but it'll help until you can get it replaced right.

that's a good idea. I also was going to put the '92 legacy complete engine FSM up there. actually, eventually I'd like to put all my subaru-related pdf's there.

You are certainly welcome to. but I don't think you'd have to. actually, 88HatchMonster sent me that link before I got this uploaded to our University server, so it was just on Putstuff....

Finally....I'm calling it done. Now with bookmarks, and a few wiring diagrams. it's 3.26 Mb On 88HatchMonster's site: http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mroseusa/EA2EJ.pdf if anyone would like me to email it to them, pm me your address and I'll be happy to do that. I also have it in MS Word .doc format aswell, if that would be easier for anyone. and a couple other files that might come in handy: 1992 Legacy FSM, Just the 4 pages of Engine Wiring 1992 Legacy FSM, EVERYTHING about the Engine and wiring (Much larger file) HTKYSA SPFI Conversion Manual

Now with bookmarks, and a few wiring diagrams. it's 3.26 Mb http://www.d.umn.edu/~alex0219/Subaru/EA2EJ.pdf or on 88HatchMonster's site: http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mroseusa/EA2EJ.pdf Phizinza...you're welcome to host it aswell. if anyone would like me to email it to them, pm me your address and I'll be happy to do that. I also have it in MS Word .doc format aswell, if that would be easier for anyone. EDIT: Added all the subaru-related .pdfs that I had to my folder here on the UMD servers.... 1992 Legacy FSM, Just the 4 pages of Engine Wiring 1992 Legacy FSM, EVERYTHING about the Engine and wiring (Much larger file) HTKYSA SPFI Conversion Manual

yep. that's my thought too. I just watched the video, and it's hard to tell, exactly, but the outer CV boot is spinning aswell....the times I've had the outer CV fail, the boot slips on the shaft and doesn't spin. take the wheel cover off (if it has one) and see if the big 36mm nut in the middle of the wheel is spinning. That'll rule out stripped hub. btw, your EA82 is SPFI...not MPFI

sorry, and thanks for the correction. I should have said that I don't know for sure. But from the legacy stuff I pulled from my EJ donor, that's what it looked like. Good to know the tie rod I bought over break will still be usable! I think the biggest reason that reaming the ball joint hole out isn't very common, is the difficulty involved in matching the pitch of the taper. I don't know what exactly would be involved....but I do know you can't just whip out a drill bit and make the hole bigger

oh....there's the explanation and proof....29s would be pretty much the biggest you could run.

the part about choking your car to no end, was a direct quote from a post from someone (I don't remember who...), who had that very problem. ran the EJ22 through the EA cat-back, and lost quite a bit of power.

looks hot....that settles it. as soon as I have the money to spare, rota's with some 245s.

the tapered stud that fits into the knuckle is different. Larger IIRC. but uses the same threads as EJ cars, so no need for XT6 rod ends. and yes, the only difference between EA82 control arms and XT6 ones, is the ball joint size. the problem with the rear is the newer cars (with the exception of the 99+ legacies...which are even more complex) use mulit-link suspension, using lateral links, struts, and suspension knuckles, whereas the older cars use a simple trailing arm with a shock bolted to it. AND the EJ cars have a small drum brake inside the hub for the ebrake, making the hub and knuckle a much more complex design than the EA stuff. oh yea, and 4-cyl XTs are still 4-lug.

just looking at the pic from the rear, it looks like those wheels have a bit less offset than stock, which might help the strut clearance. in any case...looks hot! are those 29s?

I have not tried anything else...I've had such good luck with the rislone that I haven't had any reason to. I've left it in all our trannies. it saved the trans in our '94 legacy (couldn't get it into second when we got it....new gear oil with a quart of rislone, and it works again, and quite well!). and I used it in the lifted blue '88 I had for probably 20k miles or so....and it seemed to help a ton.

I've been debating what tire size to run when I go 5-lug this summer....I think I'm going to use 17" Rota Torques....and was thinking I'd go with pretty much the narrowest tire I would dare on an 8" wide rim...but if wider is possible. AWESOME!