Numbchux

while offroading, you can lean out and see the terrain under your tires. I just take my doors off....

I wouldn't......again :-\ epoxies don't hold up to well to the pressure. BUT, for a *temporary* solution, you can use a piece of small rubber line (like one of the larger vacuum lines), slit it lengthwise so you cal slide it over the line, coat the inside with a little epoxy of your choice, and use a few hose clamps to put some pressure on it. you probably won't get a perfect seal under full brake pressure, but it'll help until you can get it replaced right.

that's a good idea. I also was going to put the '92 legacy complete engine FSM up there. actually, eventually I'd like to put all my subaru-related pdf's there.

You are certainly welcome to. but I don't think you'd have to. actually, 88HatchMonster sent me that link before I got this uploaded to our University server, so it was just on Putstuff....

Finally....I'm calling it done. Now with bookmarks, and a few wiring diagrams. it's 3.26 Mb On 88HatchMonster's site: http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mroseusa/EA2EJ.pdf if anyone would like me to email it to them, pm me your address and I'll be happy to do that. I also have it in MS Word .doc format aswell, if that would be easier for anyone. and a couple other files that might come in handy: 1992 Legacy FSM, Just the 4 pages of Engine Wiring 1992 Legacy FSM, EVERYTHING about the Engine and wiring (Much larger file) HTKYSA SPFI Conversion Manual

Now with bookmarks, and a few wiring diagrams. it's 3.26 Mb http://www.d.umn.edu/~alex0219/Subaru/EA2EJ.pdf or on 88HatchMonster's site: http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mroseusa/EA2EJ.pdf Phizinza...you're welcome to host it aswell. if anyone would like me to email it to them, pm me your address and I'll be happy to do that. I also have it in MS Word .doc format aswell, if that would be easier for anyone. EDIT: Added all the subaru-related .pdfs that I had to my folder here on the UMD servers.... 1992 Legacy FSM, Just the 4 pages of Engine Wiring 1992 Legacy FSM, EVERYTHING about the Engine and wiring (Much larger file) HTKYSA SPFI Conversion Manual

yep. that's my thought too. I just watched the video, and it's hard to tell, exactly, but the outer CV boot is spinning aswell....the times I've had the outer CV fail, the boot slips on the shaft and doesn't spin. take the wheel cover off (if it has one) and see if the big 36mm nut in the middle of the wheel is spinning. That'll rule out stripped hub. btw, your EA82 is SPFI...not MPFI

sorry, and thanks for the correction. I should have said that I don't know for sure. But from the legacy stuff I pulled from my EJ donor, that's what it looked like. Good to know the tie rod I bought over break will still be usable! I think the biggest reason that reaming the ball joint hole out isn't very common, is the difficulty involved in matching the pitch of the taper. I don't know what exactly would be involved....but I do know you can't just whip out a drill bit and make the hole bigger

oh....there's the explanation and proof....29s would be pretty much the biggest you could run.

the part about choking your car to no end, was a direct quote from a post from someone (I don't remember who...), who had that very problem. ran the EJ22 through the EA cat-back, and lost quite a bit of power.

looks hot....that settles it. as soon as I have the money to spare, rota's with some 245s.

the tapered stud that fits into the knuckle is different. Larger IIRC. but uses the same threads as EJ cars, so no need for XT6 rod ends. and yes, the only difference between EA82 control arms and XT6 ones, is the ball joint size. the problem with the rear is the newer cars (with the exception of the 99+ legacies...which are even more complex) use mulit-link suspension, using lateral links, struts, and suspension knuckles, whereas the older cars use a simple trailing arm with a shock bolted to it. AND the EJ cars have a small drum brake inside the hub for the ebrake, making the hub and knuckle a much more complex design than the EA stuff. oh yea, and 4-cyl XTs are still 4-lug.

just looking at the pic from the rear, it looks like those wheels have a bit less offset than stock, which might help the strut clearance. in any case...looks hot! are those 29s?

I have not tried anything else...I've had such good luck with the rislone that I haven't had any reason to. I've left it in all our trannies. it saved the trans in our '94 legacy (couldn't get it into second when we got it....new gear oil with a quart of rislone, and it works again, and quite well!). and I used it in the lifted blue '88 I had for probably 20k miles or so....and it seemed to help a ton.

I've been debating what tire size to run when I go 5-lug this summer....I think I'm going to use 17" Rota Torques....and was thinking I'd go with pretty much the narrowest tire I would dare on an 8" wide rim...but if wider is possible. AWESOME!

The North Shore Wheelers are planning to have two guided trail rides at the Iron Range ORV Recreation Area in Gilbert, MN for the open house, with a brief presentation on Responsible Wheeling and Trail Safety. The two trail rides will be at 10 AM and 1 PM and will meet in the parking lot. For those that don't know on the 3rd Saturday in May every year the Park in Gilbert is open to the public to check out for free. This year that happens to be May 19th. Anyone is welcome to come along. The Guided rides will keep to the simplest and most scenic of trials. But the rest of the park will be open all day as well, so there are plenty of places for some more extreme trails. if anyone is interesting in coming, or has any questions about the event, feel free to let me know.

I'm pretty sure the brat has the same wheelbase and turning radius (or close) to a wagon. but the hatch is drastically shorter. the EA82 isn't a BAD motor....in fact, it's pretty good. the timing belts are the weak link, but pretty simple. the last one I did, was on the side of the interstate in central MN. My mom timed it...including time to put my coveralls on....14 minutes from getting out of her car, to starting mine. that was a driver's side belt too, so the passenger one had to come off aswell. rear LSD is possible pretty easily. the Clutch-type is decent, even offroad. When you've got 2 wheels off the ground, with an open diff, you've got no power, with an LSD, it's like having a couple guys pushing on your bumper...more than enough to get you out of many situations.

that gear oil is way too heavy. I'm running 85w-90, and it's noticeably heavy in the cold (i.e. below zero....start engine, drop clutch into neutral....engine dead). put some lighter stuff in there, I also HIGHLY recommend a half quart of Rislone Engine (you heard me right) Treatment instead of some of the gear oil. it really helps the synchros mesh! also, I bet your CEL is the neutral start switch. it's figured out that you're driving around, but the switch still says it's in neutral. So it says something is wrong. you could wire the switch into a switch on the clutch pedal....or live with it.

that should give you a decent start, I'm sure someone will chime in later with better descriptions and fill in any holes

and get some adjustable struts from an '85-'86 GL. that'll give you a good inch or 2 (I wouldn't adjust them all the way up though....that's a little much on the CVs)

well, I rolled my car up on the ramps today....the mounts have not torn. They're the square mounts, and appear to have soaked up the difference in angle.

go EJ... in all honesty, I'd check the basics, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter etc.

that was my belt. less than 24 hours after buying my black '88 lifted wagon about a year ago. the PO changed the belts and the tensioners, but not the idler. and, as it turned out, used the wrong bolts for the tensioners, which later stripped out I've gotten a full timing kit with all 3 pulleys from ebay for less than $100 a couple times.

I've heard from many sources that you should get a winch rated at twice the weight of the rig it's on....