Numbchux

Sweet82 has custom rims and ATV tires. and no body.....it's substantially lighter than a real soob. this has been discussed a number of times, bottom line being that you're putting something like 5 times more weight on them then most of them were designed for. whether that's a risk you're willing to take is up to you....

ok: and just for fun, with STi BBS's on it: meh, I like the Rota Torques better. even if you could cut 2" out of the air struts without destroying something. you'd still be 4-lug, and you'd still have the air struts..... I've got something else entirely planned for suspension on this beast (hence the STi decals.....)

with all the questions about how to wire the relays on an EJ swapped car, I thought I'd draw up a little diagram of how I have it wired. obviously, the arrow marked (to rest of Ej harness) will go throughout the harness and give power to anything that needs power (coil, all ECU plugs, injectors, igniter, etc.) the 2 leads on the ignition switch that just go to a "+" sign get power via the EA harness. and the wire to the starter relay should remain factory EA. now, for security, you could wire a rocker switch (that always gets power) instead of the ignition switch to power the ignition relay (what I've done). this allows 3 things. 1. the car cannot start without flipping the switch (hidden kill switch) 2. you still need the key to start it 3. you can leave the car running to warm up with the ignition off (all accessories off, headlights, etc. and steering column still locked). I will be adding this to my write-up.

oh yea...that's no big deal. most of it's attached to the trans itself. then just remove the solenoids from the drivers side strut tower, and plug the line. yeck, you could just take the stuff attached to the trans out, plug the line, and leave the solenoids.

I don't think so. there are dozens of wires going in there for other indicators and such for the EA chassis, and only 2? for the EJ (tach and temp). I'd rather splice 2 wires into a cluster that already fits, than a bunch of wires, for indicators that might not be there, for a cluster that doesn't fit. I mean sure, you wouldn't have to hook up some of those things, headlight and door indicators for example, but your gas gauge (who knows if the resistance is the same) etc. and I'm 99% certain that a '93 imp will still have a cable speedo.

I can attest to that. I got mine through AA last summer. AWESOME product, fit perfect. great work man

it says '81-'89 GL, so I would suspect they mean EA81. I couldn't find the same part for an EA82, but found this: http://performance.thepartsbin.com/basket.php?makeid=31&modelid=503&year=1992&partid=536&brandid=3705 scroll down past the tranny cooler ones, and there's a full oil cooler kit. none of our subarus have had factory ENGINE oil coolers. but all the autos have a seperate core in the radiator for the tranny fluid (heck...so does my toyota). you could probably get a radiator for an AT and just plumb into that.

The D/R's don't. 4WD is engaged with the same lever as the lo range. just like a truck/jeep. keep in mind you'll also need the linkage for the low range, and the trim and shifter boot is different too, so you may want to get those too (I ran without it in my lifted wagons, but that's only for those who like watching the road go by).

fixed dents, black mirrors, RX body kit, removed RX decal (by the time I get around to painting it, I probably won't be running an RX FT4WD tranny).

yep, the ej22e is incredibly well-matched to the lightweight EA body style. I love shifting into second at only about 10 mph and then holding WOT almost all the way out to redline. it makes me every time!!! the first 5 months or so were really interesting...no driveshaft, and one sticky front wheel bearing. it was like 1.2 wheel drive....I could roast that tire sooo easily. then I repacked the bearing, and made a real driveshaft hanger so I could put the whole thing in.....and took it ice racing

I don't think it stands for anything. just a way of identifying different series' of motors. all subaru motors (that I can think of....) start with 'E'. the older ones were EAs (your loyale is an EA82, don't ask me where the numbers came from), when they started the legacy, they completely redesigned the motor, and started calling them EJs. the SVX 6-cyl is an EG33, the newer outback 6-cyl is an EZ30. the XT6 6-cyl is an ER27. with the exception of the EA motors, the 2 numbers always stand for the displacement. the EJ motors have another digit after it that seperates different generations of motors. EJ22e, ej22t, ej20k, ej20g, ej20h, ej207, ej257, ej203, ej253 etc. these are printed on the vin tag. these IDs are printed both on the engine block, and the VIN tags.

I've seen a couple cherokee guys add an extra layer to the Tranny pan. no easy way to mount a plate to a crossmember on those, since they're unibody aswell. it's not bulletproof, but it's a huge help.

I've tried 2 tone stuff...and haven't found anything I'm terribly fond of. I did it on my lifted wagon and it looked sweet.....but I just don't see it working here. I'll try relocating the decal. hadn't thought of that. I was originally thinking leaving the bumpers and mirrors blue....but I'm liking it better with the black bumpers...maybe I'll do the mirrors too... I already removed about a half a dozen rust spots, and a couple other things....didn't get to the dent. I wish body work was really this easy :-\

you know....I saw a GL-10 in the junkyard with black handles last summer...it looked really nice. not sure how it would go with this blue, but it's worth a try. Edit: how about...like this:

I've always been thinking of repainting my wagon...but could decide on a color. was originally detracted from the blue, black, and silver because those seem to be the overwhelmingly popular subaru colors. When I go to MNSubaru meets, it seems that all the cars there are one of those 3 colors....and then a red one will show up and everyone starts drooling over it.... but then I realized, since this is a completely different body style, it wouldn't be quite so cliche. AND, by going with the trademark subaru blue and gold, it would be more recognizable as a subaru. sooo.....I took the wagon to a car wash, and then to my favorite photoshoot spot, and took some pictures. found a good picture of some sweet gold Rotas, the RX decal from Mick's decal site, and the STi decal, and got to work....and this is what I came out with: or maybe with black bumpers: edit....decided it needed some tint:

that's exactly right. I'll see if I can find a pic of the linkage and the extra lever. the D/R trans is pretty strong, especially behind the stock motor. the only cases I know of that resulted in substantial tranny damage were in highly modified situations, so a junkyard would be a great place. do a search on http://www.car-part.com for one, and look for Chesney's Auto Salvage here in Duluth, MN, they have some of the cheapest prices in the country.....and will ship. the oil pressure does drop substantially at idle....but should go quite to zero. as far as repair manuals go. you can get your hands on a FSM (factory service manual) from ebay or the classifieds here, but they can cost a pretty penny.

the Dual Range works just like a truck or jeep. mechanical linkage, 3 settings. 2WD (FWD), 4Hi, 4Lo. the lo range reduction is pretty meager compared to trucks and stuff....but it's something. Part-time 4WD D/R 5-speeds came out of any N/A EA82 (not hatches or brats) GL from 1985 to 1989. a winch would look pretty cool....but you'll find that most of the guys here are about function over form. a winch on a 2500lb wheeling rig isn't going to serve much function. there were a couple times I wish I'd had a winch.....but not many. a good recovery strap and a buddy is 100x more effective. the EJ22 is a very common motor. it was used in different forms throughout the '90s in legacies and imprezas. the simplest donor is a '90-'94 legacy (OBD I, simpler wiring). it's a pretty in-depth swap, but IMHO soooo worth it. I've been daily driving my ej22 swapped loyale for 8 months or so, and 2nd gear still puts an ear-to-ear grin on my face everytime I'm putting the finishing touches on my write-up today (at home with strep throat...). hopefully it'll be up by the end of the week.

yep, I have an EA82 one (maybe the same as an EA81....).

I'd use the 2.2 heads. the higher compression would be great. and with the 2.2 heads and intake, you'll have a simpler time getting the wiring to work.

I'd be worried about using an electric fuel or water pump for this. since the oil is so much thicker, it may cause problems. it may not aswell....I don't know for sure, but it's certainly something to consider.

:clap: that....is......sooooo......hotttttt!!!!!!!!

rear suspension....torsion bars FTL. unless you're OK with the stock suspension.....

oh yea, imo the newer cars have almost as much climbing ability because of the added torque. I think my EA82 wagon would always run out of steam on long climbs, even in low range, the EJ22 just keeps pulling! the only problem you may run into, is if you're trying to stuff more than about 29" tires under an EJ car, is the clearance at the lower spring perch. unless you go with full coilovers....but the stock Outback/Forester (tallest you can get stock) struts only allow limited clearance.

yea, black *should* be read, and green *should* be test.