Numbchux

the fuel circuit is one of the simplest ones in the harness, if this one doesn't work, something else won't work either. make sure there is power going to the relay, and continuity to the pump, from there, it's just one wire to the ECU. and if the ECU isn't grounding the fuel relay, it probably either doesn't have power or ground somewhere, or no signal from the crank/cam angle sensors. if it comes on with the ignition, but not while cranking....it's probably the sensor. and if it's not coming on at all, it's a power/ground somewhere.

me too. I think that would be a very good idea.

2 seperate things. I frequently would push my wagon to the absolute limit, sometimes getting stuck too, without doing any body damage. in fact, pretty much the only time I did any serious body damage, was either doing something stupid, or wheeling in the snow (off camber, sliding sideways into a tree). although, I agree, I don't want to see it get bashed up. hopefully he's somewhat careful with it.

on an EA82 wagon right?! yea, the bottom flips forward so the backs can fold down flat. just fold the bottom forward, and on the passenger side there's a rubber boot where the fuel pump wires come through.

not sure what to tell you about the power....I noticed a HUGE improvement over the EA82, which is theoretically about 90hp. the biggest difference was in the lower end torque, the 22 pulls 100% from 2k rpms than any of the EA82s I've had did. you've got the wrong connectors connected. the test mode connectors will cycle the fuel pump on and off, you need to plug in the read mode connectors (I believe they're green). what temp setup are you using? stock sender?

I've seen 2 XT6s, one was archemetis' and he still drives it. and the other was in a junkyard, I have it's sway bars, alternator, seats, 5-lug stuff, and a few other things..... this news makes me that much more excited that I got them when I had the chance

unfortunately I haven't remembered to check while I'm at advance, and this week I'm at my parents' house, and there aren't any nearby... I did get it at Advance Auto Parts, and IIRC the fan itself was $30-$40, and the temp-sensing relay was $15-20 btw....the blizzard up here seems to have knocked out my relay....the fan is not coming on, I haven't been able to diagnose the problem...

that's why I put etc. for the EJs....I couldn't remember all the combinations.

I see a bungee cord....

honestly, I don't remember what I did with the alt. it was the LAST thing to get done, and I was in an uber hurry....and I've had zero problems with it since. so I haven't pulled the tape off. I know I wired it so the EJ loom gets it's power straight from the battery, so the EJ alt just gets wired to charge the battery, essentially. my alt/charge/whatever light doesn't work.... and one wire went unused. I soldered them. they're thick, but it can be done, just takes longer. I wouldn't think about using crimp-on butt splices

yep, axle ratio is dependant on what center diff you use. if you're using a PT center, you have to use a 3.7 or 3.9 pinion from a PT box. if you're using a FT center, you have to use a 3.7 or 3.9 (XT6) pinion from a FT box. if you're using an EJ center, you have to use an EJ pinion (3.9, 4.111, 4.444, etc.) no mixing and matching without severe modification. BUT, the point of THIS thread, is that you can put any 5MT front diff carrier into any other 5MT case, i.e. a front LSD for a WRX 5MT into an RX 5MT.

we are splitting hairs to a point, but I don't want the wrong information to go unchecked. they're basically the same in design. the ATs are identical, but the MTs are very different in function. take them both on the street and try to accel hard while turning hard. with a FT4WD MT, you get nothing but wheelspin at one front corner, do it with AWD, and the viscous center is strong enough to allow the car to actually accelerate. or in the deep snow (like we've had for the last few days), if I forget to lock up my center, I just spin a front wheel. lock it up, and that all changes. the viscous would be enough to get me through most of that without the locker. a limited slip is just that, it does still allow slip, so in some situations, it will allow all the power to go to one side, and they also wear out, so the effectiveness might vary. but all EJ AWDs came with a LSD center, MTs with a viscous, and ATs with a mechanical clutch pack.

yes, you can. some of the connectors might be different, but an OBDI ECU and harness can control an OBDII engine.

sorry....but that's 100% wrong. the autos aren't viscous, but they have a clutch pack that limits the slip....but ALL AWD EJ subarus have a limited slip center diff. of somesort. I will agree with you in that the 4EAT FT4WD and AWD trannies are the same. but both have the clutch pack limited slip, favoring the front. which, in an extreme offroad situation (one that you probably can't get in without a lift), will slip. phiz has it right (be sure to read his edit....he's got ATs covered too)

I'm no carb expert....so my assistance is limited. BUT, I suspect your problem is similar to my initial problems with my EJ22 swap (just for different reasons). I was getting spark....just not at the right time. like stngllhm said, check and double check your spark plug wires, and be sure you've got the disty set right.

I understand and honor your decision to keep the carb.....cause I can't make a carb run right to save my life (well...I got that weed wacker to run pretty smooth....but that didn't take much). it's an awesome project, and i can't wait to see it when it's done!!

the ECU is not controlling the fan on my wagon....

yep, the black wire with the red stripe is just a ground. they just share the same ground, but are completely separate circuits. the functionality of the neutral switch has no effect on your ability to read the codes. (I don't have mine hooked up....I can pull codes just fine....one of them is just for the neutral switch...).

as far as I can tell the 2 pins you speak of have nothing to do with the trans in any way. they just go straight to the test and read mode connectors. if one of those wires are grounded, it activates the respective mode. I believe the neutral switch CEL comes on if it remains in either position for an abnormal length of time. on EA cars, the switch is on the clutch pedal...so you could still wire it in there if you want. the neutral switch doesn't effect reading the codes. but if that wire is not hooked up to the neutral switch, it will throw a code. here's a simplified diagram of that section. I've labeled the 3 pins you mentioned....and the big circled "A" eventually gets to an engine ground.

I say it's overrated...not junk. it's definitely a sweet motor. but the 22e can take 300+, and are a dime a dozen by comparison. reddevil is living proof of that. probably seeing close to 350 awhp. and keeps blowing up 22t pistons because he beats the crap out of it. the cylinder walls are not the weak point.

short version....no in order to get the camber adjustment, you need the struts AND knuckles. and EA hubs and axles aren't compatible with EJ knuckles, baccaruda got his XT6 calipers to bolt to his legacy knuckles...but IIRC it took alot of fabrication. the easier way, would be to modify the control arm (or the point where it bolts to the crossmember) to push the bottom of the knuckle out slightly. of course, then you'll run a slightly higher risk of over-extending the front axles....

well, wiring it up to work on the stock ECU is pretty easy, just have to move a few wires, the plugs are the same on the ECU, just a few wires are different. I've uploaded a full ECU pinout that covers both turbo and N/A models.... BUT, if you're planning on pushing enough power to justify going closed deck, it'd be just plain dumb to run the stock ECU. get a standalone and wire it in there. and if you're running a standalone, you might as well upgrade the heads..... the open deck motor can take a ton of power (like 300awhp or more) with a piggy back and lower CR pistons. your options are endless and IMHO the 22t is very overrated (and overpriced....)

I think that's right.... but you could hook up the oil light from the ECU and see for sure.

AWESOME!!! :banana: great feeling isn't it?

ooooooo.....clutch looks VERY sexy! I'll probably be looking for something like that this summer (If I can't get my hands on an EJ D/R tranny case.