Numbchux

huh...look at that. I never would have noticed that....cool!

I've got a buddy with those same wheels on his imp L....and I'm trying to talk him out of them. no luck yet nice work!

the most recent version is on PutStuff, linked in the stickied thread in this section. You're more than welcome to host it, but I'll get you a more recent version (almost done....I swear!). I'm going to try to host the final version to the university server...but I'm not sure if I remember how to do that

ok, I'm currently down to only ONE subaru so here it is: '92 Loyale wagon, started life as a FWD 3AT Florida car (Rust Free ). My dad bought it down there, and drove it up here, and it was our daily driver for a few years. then I got my license, and it was passed along to me. I hated the drivetrain, so replaced it with the '85 4WD wagon, and then a couple lifted wagons. then, last summer, I pulled it out of the woods, and between parts from my '85, my mom's old '92 legacy, and some other stuff....I did this to it: now it's running a full RX FT4WD DR drivetrain with rear LSD. R1 Racing 450/500 lb/in adjustable coilover springs over stock struts/shocks (yikes ) XT6 front sway bar (have the rear, but need the turbo trailing arms...) '85 front bumper and grill EJ22e rear discs using 200SX calipers (haven't redone the cables yet...so it's still front handbrake) this summer, it's getting 5-lug and a full suspension setup (poly bushings, GR2s in the rear, AGXs in front, rear sway bar, and some springs ), and hopefully a crazy custom hybrid tranny... then, some belt-driven forced induction and a PP6 then there's my dad's '94 Legacy Touring wagon, and my mom's '01 legacy sedan.

match your starter setup to the tranny and flywheel combo. so yes, EA82, no spacers needed.

So, after the ice race last weekend, my steering started acting goofy. at first I thought it was just the pump, which I had suspected to be going out for awhile. then I noticed that the steering doesn't center itself while moving anyway, after talking to my dad for awhile, he reminded me that we used the crossmember and steering rack from my '85, and that one of the tie rod boots was torn (and had been since I bought the '85, years ago). so now it's sticking, feels like there are about 4 spots in the full range that it sticks, anything between those spots works fine, power steering at all, but once you get to them, it takes both hands to overpower it. any short-term fixes that I could try without replacing the rack (kinda low on $$, and a good work space)? greasing something, etc.?

WELL.....that's not offroad like we're used to. you won't be using a low range at all. definitely a legacy. better motor, stronger drivetrain, more aftermarket support (You'll be VERY hard pressed to find upgraded suspension for the older subarus). or better yet, an early impreza, same motor (available, make sure you get the 2.2l, not the 1.8), same drivetrain, lighter body.

the regulator should be on the return side, the high pressure side (from the pump/filter) goes opposite that.

theoretically, disconnecting the battery at all should clear the codes, but I think there's a little residual power that might require a few seconds at least. when I've wanted to clear them, I leave the neg battery terminal disconnected for a couple minutes while doing something else, and that's been enough. long story short...the codes aren't left over from the liberty. whatever codes it's throwing, it's found them since the install in your brumby. when I originally started my swap, I had planned to completely replace the EA harness with the EJ one.....I spent about a month trying to get that to work, and in the end, it was easier to backtrack (including pulling another loyale harness from a junkyard to replace mine) and strip the EJ harness to just run the motor.

the legacies don't have true 4WD, and the lo range (if you have them in sweden) isn't very low. the brat 4-speeds also aren't anything to write home again. but the leone (EA82) dual range 5-speed is the way to go.

for the carrier bearing, I think the best way is to make brackets for it. I used some metal strip, cut 2 6" long pieces, bent them at an angle so when set flat along the driveshaft tunnel, the bottom would be horizontal, then drilled a whole in the tunnel on each side, and bolted them on there. it's worked great so far....

my girlfriend comes all the time. and I constantly push my rig to, or beyond, it's limit. heck, now that I've got something with just the 2 pedals...she'll probably be driving it

typically....chevy wheels will sick out beyond the fenders quite a bit, toyota's are more accurately matched to subaru specs.

linky no worky

other side of the CEL needs power. the ECU grounds it.

the fuel circuit is one of the simplest ones in the harness, if this one doesn't work, something else won't work either. make sure there is power going to the relay, and continuity to the pump, from there, it's just one wire to the ECU. and if the ECU isn't grounding the fuel relay, it probably either doesn't have power or ground somewhere, or no signal from the crank/cam angle sensors. if it comes on with the ignition, but not while cranking....it's probably the sensor. and if it's not coming on at all, it's a power/ground somewhere.

me too. I think that would be a very good idea.

2 seperate things. I frequently would push my wagon to the absolute limit, sometimes getting stuck too, without doing any body damage. in fact, pretty much the only time I did any serious body damage, was either doing something stupid, or wheeling in the snow (off camber, sliding sideways into a tree). although, I agree, I don't want to see it get bashed up. hopefully he's somewhat careful with it.

on an EA82 wagon right?! yea, the bottom flips forward so the backs can fold down flat. just fold the bottom forward, and on the passenger side there's a rubber boot where the fuel pump wires come through.

not sure what to tell you about the power....I noticed a HUGE improvement over the EA82, which is theoretically about 90hp. the biggest difference was in the lower end torque, the 22 pulls 100% from 2k rpms than any of the EA82s I've had did. you've got the wrong connectors connected. the test mode connectors will cycle the fuel pump on and off, you need to plug in the read mode connectors (I believe they're green). what temp setup are you using? stock sender?

I've seen 2 XT6s, one was archemetis' and he still drives it. and the other was in a junkyard, I have it's sway bars, alternator, seats, 5-lug stuff, and a few other things..... this news makes me that much more excited that I got them when I had the chance

unfortunately I haven't remembered to check while I'm at advance, and this week I'm at my parents' house, and there aren't any nearby... I did get it at Advance Auto Parts, and IIRC the fan itself was $30-$40, and the temp-sensing relay was $15-20 btw....the blizzard up here seems to have knocked out my relay....the fan is not coming on, I haven't been able to diagnose the problem...

that's why I put etc. for the EJs....I couldn't remember all the combinations.

I see a bungee cord....

honestly, I don't remember what I did with the alt. it was the LAST thing to get done, and I was in an uber hurry....and I've had zero problems with it since. so I haven't pulled the tape off. I know I wired it so the EJ loom gets it's power straight from the battery, so the EJ alt just gets wired to charge the battery, essentially. my alt/charge/whatever light doesn't work.... and one wire went unused. I soldered them. they're thick, but it can be done, just takes longer. I wouldn't think about using crimp-on butt splices