Numbchux

I'm not sure about the compressors. but I know there were at least 2 different compressor types on both engines. so that'll depend. but, unfortunately, I doubt it would work. why Megasquirt? there are dozens of standalone options for the EJ motors, none of which involve any messing with sending units or anything. there are whole sections on it on nasioc, rs25, etc. IMHO, stock ECU with a piggyback (like the Perfect Power) is the best option unless you're going for 400awhp or more. There's a guy on Nasioc who's pushing 22psi through an open deck EJ22e block with ej22t crank and pistons, DOHC heads and intake mani, and stock EJ22e ECU and a perfect power. getting about 300awhp, and even more torque.

again, who said anything about large tires?

that's how it was designed. these cars were not engineered to go into first while moving. mine shifts great with a half quart of Rislone, and the rest Valvoline 80w90 it's a little stiff when cold....in fact, if it's been outside in below zero weather over night, the car will actually move in neutral until it warms up.

normal. every subaru trans I've ever had required double clutching to get it into first while moving at all. or alot of patience (gently pushing it into first, after a couple seconds, the synchros will spin fast enough that it will go in). fresh fluid will help. a half quart of Rislone will help too...but you're never going to get it to go away entirely.

yep. except it doesn't sound like he's doing any real offroading. just pushing through some deep snow. and 95% of his driving would be ON road. get an LSD. they're great in the snow!!! and underrated offroad. no, not as good as a welded spool...but still, underrated. and, get some snow tires. those will help as much as anything.

I don't care how you tune it, a low compression, turbo'd car will always have a very crappy torque curve compared to an N/A or supercharged build.

no

no need to thrash. I wouldn't worry about any extra wear and tear from the bigger tires etc. it all depends on HOW you drive it. if you're hard on the clutch...you'll wear out the clutch, regardless of the tire size. if you spend alot of time submerged, you might reduce the lifetime of your wheel bearings, but not much. My blue wagon had 235k miles on it when I sold it, and I'm quite sure (judging from the maintenance of the rest of the car) that the wheel bearings are factory original. and I only replaced one, and the iron-rich water is VERY hard on bearings... if you are trying some serious uneven wheeling (like the rocks up here...) you'll probably bend and twist the control arms, leading rods, and maybe even the unibody.... the majority of the maintenance that you'll have to do will depend far more on the current condition of the car than the modifications.

yea, well, that's where you have to make the decision. you're not going to find a tire with the offroad traction of a swamper, the on-road behavior of an all-season, and the cost of the liberators.... Traction Tread-life Cheap pick 2.

you shouldn't have to mess with the charge light. it should remain integrated into the EA harness.... the in dash volt meter doesn't have it's own wire. it just measures the voltage coming into the cluster. I have no idea about the other 2, get yourself a chiltons manual and look them up. that's how I did it. there are dozens of wires in the dash that get 12v power. pick one. if you want the lights switched with the rest, find one of the backlights in the dash, and tap into that. get out your multimeter, and find one that has power when you want it, and use it.

working on my buddies' EA81s....they definitely weren't that weak...maybe some rust has gotten to yours or something. even got a push from one of them, didn't bend at all then either...

Thornbirds are the most overrated tire ever. no better performance offroad than any other Mud-terrain tire out there. and much more expensive. For a dedicated M/T, you can't beat the TSLs if street manners are a consideration, BFG M/Ts, Kumho M/Ts, etc. if cost is a major factor....the Uniroyal Liberator A/Ts from Wal-Mart are about as cheap as they come.

nope, no switch on the memory wire. that needs unswitched power. if you want the switch, you use the same wire from the battery to the main relay. and manually activate the relay. if you have a wire JUST for the memory wire, I bet a 2a fuse would be plenty. the voltmeter doesn't have a sender or anything. it'll read the same no matter how you hook it up, as long as it has power. so you don't have to do any messing with this wire. as long as the EA harness has power. doesn't matter what wire you use for the fan switch. anything that uses switched power. there's one for the radio already in the console, the entire EJ harness is laced with wires with switched power, any one of them will do, or, you could go straight to the source at the ignition switch.

well, the memory wire needs unswitched 12v power. get it however you like. I would put a fuse in it, pretty much any amount. the ECU only uses a tiny trickle of power, but the fuse is nice to prevent shorts and fires... I have one wire that goes from the battery to the Main relay on the EJ harness, that powers the entire EJ harness. I just tapped into this wire before the relay and went to the memory wire. I've got a 20a (or maybe 25..but I don't think so) fuse in line with that wire, and I have not blown it. I was talking to tex about this last night, and if you've got one wire powering the entire EJ harness, you can splice a switch instead of your ignition switch to control your Main relay. this does 2 things, if you give it power all the time (I spliced it into my radio's memory wire), that means the main relay, and therefore the entire engine, can still get power with the key out of the ignition. That means you can let the car idle to warm up, but without the key, you've got no accessories (headlights, horn, heat, radio...anything), and no steering. and if you leave the starter wire hooked to the ignition switch, you need the key to start it. it also acts as a kill switch, so even if someone gets into your car with the key, they have to know about the switch for it to run... sorry...that's not directly related to your question...but it's an interesting idea. and I'd highly recommend wiring it that way! I'd leave the sender wires in the harness....in fact, you could probably use the stock temp sensor and wire for your gauge. but even anyway...it's 2 wires. and if, at some point down the road, you decided you want to use them....they're there. not sure what you're asking about the alternator, and I also have no recollection of wire colors. but basically, if you're running the engine straight from the battery, there's no need for the alternator to be wired directly into the EJ harness....it's just there to keep the battery charged. so splice the EJ plug into the EA harness....and you're set.

probably have to add more than an inch. the RX D/R linkage is longer than regular 5MT D/R.... sounds like a beast....now let's see some pictures

yep, that's the one. I remember having some problems with that if I pushed too hard (or maybe too little....). and it did take a long azz time.... a carbide cutting bit sound nice though! I wish I had seen one of those when I was doing this project...

agreed! When I get my exhaust made up, I'm shooting for DUAL 2"....

dremel. the $30 Craftsman one-speed wired rotary tool, and 2 grinding stone attachments and a couple hours. worked perfectly! and VERY smooth, no vibrations or anything.

this is true....as long as you don't get high-centered on the rocks very often.... I bent the bracket on my black wagons carrier bearing so much, that the bracket itself was actually rubbing on the shaft. the bearing doesn't like that much....and it was a FWD car, except MorganM just welded the bracket to the driveshaft tunnel.....so it'll need to be cut off to be replaced.

I mounted some brackets in my FWD EA82 very much like GDs there. except since I don't easily have access to a welder, I used a bolt with a fender washer on the interior side and a nylock nut on the bottom. it actually worked great! maybe I'll take a picture this weekend while I'm replacing a rear caliper

^^waterproof. I considered doing something similar. on the right side of that page, they've got links to some universal brackets. I don't see any that would be a direct bolt-in, but it would be a start. but whatever you do, chances are good that some fabrication will be required on the brackets.

yea, I've had a couple that were really tough. one required some serious pounding/heating. and another one that I ended up using an acetylene torch and an air chisel. they can be extremely tough. unfortunately,

I thought it looked familiar

that is true, but the sticky in this forum does specifically comment about posting pics of other rigs. whatever, the point is that I think every one of us here that now has a toyota, had a subaru before that, and wheeled the living crap out of it. I didn't quite as much as the HP guys, but we've got a little different type of wheeling up here....one that likes to devour subaru suspension systems. but, I must admit, with the huge (QMAN'S RETURN) comment in the title...I got all excited to see the brat back in action.....and now I see it's for sale. I guess it was just a matter of time. Zap. isn't that the Yota you bought to rob the bumpers and roll bar off of?

GLs did get a 2-speed transfer case and the tranny is an easy swap into a loyale.... I think a lifted subaru is one of the best cars you could own. while I had it, it was my only car...it only left me stranded a couple times, and rarely because of offroading carnage, but just from old age maintenance issues.