Numbchux

well...300hp is asking ALOT out of an EJ22e. if you're shooting for that much power, unless you know a crapload about turbo engine building, a 6-speed tranny is going to be a pretty small cost in the grand scheme of things. why not just get an adapter plate and run your EA82 5-speed? it'll handle all the power the EJ22e can put out N/A, and maybe more. I intend to throw as much power as possible at my RX trans....we'll see what gives first. than I'll have that cryo treated and keep running it.... but, there's a guy with a fully built, twin-charged (both Super and Turbo) EJ (22e block, 22t crank, rods, and pistons, and JDM DOHC heads) pushing about 300awhp through the stock 1990 legacy 5-speed. it all depends on use. if you abuse it, you could blow any subaru 5-speed with an EA82 in front of it. if you take care of it, 300bhp or even awhp is definitely possible.

stickied at the top of this forum: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69741 it's not entirely complete. I've got some more pictures to add, Shawn made a correction about the radiator hoses in that thread, so be sure to read that too. Hoping to get some time next week to get it really finished and uploaded to the school server for a better host. than I'll post it to the USRM too.

yep, the 1-2 gears are on the same synchro, which is on the output shaft of the tranny, whereas the other 3 synchro sets are all on the input shaft....so putting it in second would definitely spin the synchros to help.

I have that video. it's not a modified EVO. stock Evo Viii MR FQ400 (non-USDM version...) "A fit, young, racing champion, in a supercar. Cannot pull away from a fat man, in a 4-door Saloon" cool video....the best part is the second half where the rip into it. racing it against a 1.6l fiat wagon from 30mph in top gear. 1.7 mile runway, and it never caught up. HIGHLY recommend watching that video.... btw....Ferrari is the Stallion...Lamborghini's emblem is a Bull

As if that wasn't enough, Dave Westerburg just emailed me a copy of his editorial last June. This is a great guy, he single-handedly made it possible to open a State Park for an open house one day a year (took a year and a half...), and is now spending almost all of his free time working on a YJ that they plan to donate to the MS Society's Crawl 4 the Cure to be raffled off. complete frame-off restoration + lift, lockers and tires. AND, is trying to loose 70 lbs at about $6 a pound for the same event this summer. That's above and beyond the things he mentions in the following article. He has some great things to say, and the North Shore Wheelers (myself included) are behind him 100%. Remember that was last June... and the rather comical response that was published a few days later (keep in mind, these are the kinds of people who are working against us....and unfortunately have about 10x the power that we do....ALWAYS remember that) and what Dave posted on our forum about that: But wait...there's more: I'll probably find more....

yep, I had them on my black wagon (which probably had about 25k miles on them when I got it), and they still had decent tread left, and even aired down in the nasty rocks up here, I never punctured a sidewall (although I worried alot about them ). Great tire, Amazing cost... but...if you've got some cash, you can do alot better

the SPFI fuel pump in my loyale had what looked like a regulator on it, exactly like you describe. ZERO problems with it (well...except it rusted through and started leaking gas all over the place). and IIRC, the MPFI pump puts out more fuel pressure at normal use on the EA82t than the SPFI one CAN put out anyway, I replaced it with one for a turbo EA82, and it didn't have anything that looked like a regulator on it. either way, they did not require modification. I wouldn't worry about it, unless you guys got something completely different (which, I don't know how it could be that the OZ-spec EA82t would be limited to a substantially lower fuel pressure...and the EJ22 not...).

truth is....probably not much. because of the open center diff, when it really matters, all the power goes to the front anyway (accel out of a corner). but if you lock the center in the snow or dirt....oh man is it fun

I guess I just have fat feet....it works really well for me

many things are close, and can be made to work with a little work. and most of them are an upgrade. The XT6 seats are a bit of a pain to make work....but IMHO....100% worth the effort!! I love those seats.

OK, here goes. I've been brainstorming for a thread like this for a few days.... guess what....it does. we're all tied together, if one state bans ORV use on public land, the dominoes will take out many others. Washington and Oregon may not be next....but they will be effected. You can bet on that. The State of Minnesota is the third largest land owner in the US. Behind the Federal Government, and the State of Alaska. A year ago, we were allowed into two (2) state-owned facilities. now, we're down to one. Lucky for me, I only live an hour drive away from it, but, who knows for how long. Last spring, the State Legislature was offered a bill that would ban OHV use (ATVs, OHMs and ORVs) on all public land. It almost passed, and it's pretty likely that that same bill will be revised, and re-offered to the state congress.....and the vote could very easily go the other way. Now, I don't have to tell you guys that this isn't the solution, obviously people will just do it illegally. Opening MORE land to control use is the answer, but the people with influence don't know this. The fight for ORV land is a PR campaign. And, for the most part, the ORV community has done nothing to counter the vast anti-ORV community. But, the first step that we can take in our fight to keep the land we have, and have a prayer at getting more, is to be careful about what you post. We all know it's the exact opposite reaction, but if the anti-ORV people get a hold of evidence of illegal and destructive use, it'll give them more leverage against allowing more legal use. So just think twice before posting pictures. Go have fun, take pics for yourself, but think twice before making them public. And always keep in mind that the Anti-ORV crowd LOVES to take things out of context. So even if it was on legal land, if it looks destructive, or dangerous, it can be used against us. Part of this PR campaign is the stereotype that the ORV community is a bunch of stupid, inbred rednecks. And that the only way we have fun is if we're smashing into things, throwing cattails 30 feet into the air, etc. So anything that even remotely agrees with those stereotypes is a perfect candidate to be kept to yourself. Unfortunately, this is most of the wheeling that you guys have in the NW. And I realize you want to post up pictures, so that's ok, but just think twice first. Here's an article that was published in the Wall Street Journal. More proof that we're all tied together by the anti-ORV PR. That's a Nationally distributed Newspaper based in New York, with an article about MN's ONLY public ORV land. What they don't tell you, is the Iron Range Off-Highway Recreation Area (IROHVA) in Gilbert was built on an abandoned iron ore mine that closed down operations in 1985, and was opened as an OHV area in 2002 (but, somehow, it's the OHV park's fault that the population of the town has gone down in the last 20 years ). And in 1999 when the MN4WDA and other groups went in to prepare the old strip mine to become an ORV park, they removed at least 5 burned and mangled hulks of cars, some 10,000 tires, garbage by the ton, and hundreds of appliances. All on volunteer time. And yet we're the ones destroying the environment?! Go ahead, search the internet. any databases you might have, anything, for articles about ORV use. I guarantee you will find almost 100% ANTI-ORV articles. The only decent pro-ORV article was an editorial published in the Duluth News Tribune last June. Let me try to find it. It was very well written, and the response to it is almost comical. So join your states 4WD Association or similar, get involved, go to rallies, do EVERYTHING you can! for example, the same guy that wrote the editorial I mentioned (also a good friend of mine) took the necessary steps to start an open house at the IROHVRA, the second Saturday of May the registration sticker is not required to get in, just pass the tech inspection and you're gold. I intend to be there again this year, guiding trail rides, showing people that there's something there for everyone, and that this can be a positive experience. The guys at MNOHV.org started a small rally on the steps of the State Capital building last fall as the first step towards some positive PR work in MN. We had 3 speakers from the State congress, as well as a worker from the ORV area. It made an appearance in the local TV news 3 times in the few days to follow. You can view clips of those news reports on their website below. Some good sites to check out positive MN Offroading: http://www.mnohv.org http://www.mn4wda.com http://www.crawl4cure.org http://www.nsw4x4.com local offroad group, I'm a member of. Check out the 'About Us' and Rules links. I think that's all for now....

yes, but nonetheless proves that a perfect power added onto a stock OBDI ECU can put in enough fuel for 22psi. good catch dave! yep, your '95 will be an OBDII which opens up a whole new can of worms wiring wise. a pre-1994 legacy is a much better donor. Syonyk, I don't know almost anything about the standalone possibilities, but you'll find more info than you'll know what to do with here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=80 http://www.rs25.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=72 and for N/A specific stuff: http://www.rs25.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=5 IMHO 180-190 hp (even at the crank) is alot to ask from a N/A setup.

I'm not sure about the compressors. but I know there were at least 2 different compressor types on both engines. so that'll depend. but, unfortunately, I doubt it would work. why Megasquirt? there are dozens of standalone options for the EJ motors, none of which involve any messing with sending units or anything. there are whole sections on it on nasioc, rs25, etc. IMHO, stock ECU with a piggyback (like the Perfect Power) is the best option unless you're going for 400awhp or more. There's a guy on Nasioc who's pushing 22psi through an open deck EJ22e block with ej22t crank and pistons, DOHC heads and intake mani, and stock EJ22e ECU and a perfect power. getting about 300awhp, and even more torque.

again, who said anything about large tires?

that's how it was designed. these cars were not engineered to go into first while moving. mine shifts great with a half quart of Rislone, and the rest Valvoline 80w90 it's a little stiff when cold....in fact, if it's been outside in below zero weather over night, the car will actually move in neutral until it warms up.

normal. every subaru trans I've ever had required double clutching to get it into first while moving at all. or alot of patience (gently pushing it into first, after a couple seconds, the synchros will spin fast enough that it will go in). fresh fluid will help. a half quart of Rislone will help too...but you're never going to get it to go away entirely.

yep. except it doesn't sound like he's doing any real offroading. just pushing through some deep snow. and 95% of his driving would be ON road. get an LSD. they're great in the snow!!! and underrated offroad. no, not as good as a welded spool...but still, underrated. and, get some snow tires. those will help as much as anything.

I don't care how you tune it, a low compression, turbo'd car will always have a very crappy torque curve compared to an N/A or supercharged build.

no

no need to thrash. I wouldn't worry about any extra wear and tear from the bigger tires etc. it all depends on HOW you drive it. if you're hard on the clutch...you'll wear out the clutch, regardless of the tire size. if you spend alot of time submerged, you might reduce the lifetime of your wheel bearings, but not much. My blue wagon had 235k miles on it when I sold it, and I'm quite sure (judging from the maintenance of the rest of the car) that the wheel bearings are factory original. and I only replaced one, and the iron-rich water is VERY hard on bearings... if you are trying some serious uneven wheeling (like the rocks up here...) you'll probably bend and twist the control arms, leading rods, and maybe even the unibody.... the majority of the maintenance that you'll have to do will depend far more on the current condition of the car than the modifications.

yea, well, that's where you have to make the decision. you're not going to find a tire with the offroad traction of a swamper, the on-road behavior of an all-season, and the cost of the liberators.... Traction Tread-life Cheap pick 2.

you shouldn't have to mess with the charge light. it should remain integrated into the EA harness.... the in dash volt meter doesn't have it's own wire. it just measures the voltage coming into the cluster. I have no idea about the other 2, get yourself a chiltons manual and look them up. that's how I did it. there are dozens of wires in the dash that get 12v power. pick one. if you want the lights switched with the rest, find one of the backlights in the dash, and tap into that. get out your multimeter, and find one that has power when you want it, and use it.

working on my buddies' EA81s....they definitely weren't that weak...maybe some rust has gotten to yours or something. even got a push from one of them, didn't bend at all then either...

Thornbirds are the most overrated tire ever. no better performance offroad than any other Mud-terrain tire out there. and much more expensive. For a dedicated M/T, you can't beat the TSLs if street manners are a consideration, BFG M/Ts, Kumho M/Ts, etc. if cost is a major factor....the Uniroyal Liberator A/Ts from Wal-Mart are about as cheap as they come.

nope, no switch on the memory wire. that needs unswitched power. if you want the switch, you use the same wire from the battery to the main relay. and manually activate the relay. if you have a wire JUST for the memory wire, I bet a 2a fuse would be plenty. the voltmeter doesn't have a sender or anything. it'll read the same no matter how you hook it up, as long as it has power. so you don't have to do any messing with this wire. as long as the EA harness has power. doesn't matter what wire you use for the fan switch. anything that uses switched power. there's one for the radio already in the console, the entire EJ harness is laced with wires with switched power, any one of them will do, or, you could go straight to the source at the ignition switch.